September Switches & Style Statements

 

The wet and decidedly abrupt introduction to September was perfect for assessing the staying prowess of chain lubes, tyres and waterproof technical kit. I'd been wanting to see how effective the Leatt pedals were at shedding mud and other contaminant, so switched Ursula's Shimano A530 and headed for the bridleways.

I wasn't expecting otherwise but was relieved to discover they're on par with Shimano M540 (which I’ve switched back to Muffin following a generous re-greasing), XT and their homages.  The waterlogged conditions have also seen me donning these Shimano MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing booties, which make an excellent transition between cross country mountain biking/gravel riding and general winter road duties.

 I'm still fond of the MW05Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing, but the MW07's stiffer sole, refinements and improved weatherproofing give better connection with the bike and protection from the wetter roads. Especially paired with waterproof socks-no such thing as the wrong weather, just the wrong kit. Oh,and yes, I know Ursula’s front guard is the “wrong” way round-I’m experimenting to see how much difference this makes-good, or otherwise.  

 Somewhat predictably, the constant exposure to wet, waterlogged roads has put a dent in the Weldtite Wax lubes’ staying prowess.

 Nonetheless, I returned 140 miles from a double up application on Muffin and applied a top up since it coincided with a deep sudsy bucket clean.  Even then, a tangible filmy later remained and no trace of corrosion on the links.  Ursula and I continue to enjoy the green lanes and bridleways to see how clean and stoical the wax proves in these contexts. Then of course, I wanted to see how effectively the Leatt Endurance 6 pedals shed mud.

Temperatures have been in the high teens, so I've stuck to bib shorts, although have progressed to ¾ lengths on dawn outings when the mercury's still slumbering in single figures.  Staying with footwear a moment, I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes | cycling-not-racing

 ¾ lengths have often been regarded as a rider faux pas off road and on some levels, I agree. However, they're also very practical bridge garments and relatively complementary worn with more trail orientated jackets, such as the Madison RoamMadison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing . Nothing against mtb baggies, they just aren't my thing. 

Now the nights are drawing in and its dark in this region from 1900hrs onward, it’s nice to find ourselves receiving a gentle trickle of winter kit. On the lighting front, we’ve just taken delivery of this Sigma Buster 1600 and RL150 pairing, which as the names would imply is a front light pumping out a maximum of 1600lumens and a rear light capable of 150, which promises to cater for the darkest lanes. That said, this genre of front light, run times are relatively short at full and higher outputs, so ensure the lower modes are suitable for your typical riding requirements.

It will be interesting to see how it compares with the Ravemen LR1600 USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing  The RL150 has five modes. Two steady and three flashing. The full 150 refers to the day flash, night flash is 25 lumens and eco flash is 5. The two steady are 40 and 5 lumens respectively, which on paper at least, sounds a wide gap- something around the 10, or 15 lumen mark would’ve been more obvious. However, real world performance is what really counts.

There’s also a braking function and I’m curious as to how much of an impact this will have on the run times.

I’m still toying with the idea of placing one inch Ahead spacers beneath Denises’s stem. Now, there is no mechanical need to do this, since the expander wedge is what keeps everything firmly in situ. The Profile Design adaptor is also made to a much higher standard than the no-name auction site specials.  However, I have some black spacers in the spares tray, which would work both in terms of height and aesthetics. I’ll give it a few weeks and some more thought.  

Though I tackled most of the pre-autumn stripping, regreasing and corrosion inhibiting, it’s that time of year to add a lick of silicone grease to battery contacts on computers and where appropriate, lights to keep the elements from wreaking havoc. IPX6 isn’t uncommon for lights these days but those meeting IPX4 or 5 usually get a quick lick, or periodic shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to flush through and leave a protective barrier behind.  

Breaks in the wetter conditions has also seen my checking and topping up the waxy corrosion inhibitors before the cold, dark and wetter months set in. This obviously extended to cars. There was a generous helping cling to the KA’s chassis and underbody, which as reassuring, although I’ve given a light top up coat while opportunity presented and it would cure quickly enough to avoid moisture being trapped inside. 

Lube it, Scrub It, Hold It, True Them

 

Though I generally treat fixed and single speed chains to middleweight wet formulas, I decided Muffin’s Izumi to the Weldtite Wax and was pleasantly surprised by how frisky the transmission felt, while remaining serenely quiet. For context, I was averaging 18.1mph in contexts where otherwise I average 17.1mph.

Without lab testing facilities, much of this is easily attributable to psychosomatic, dare I say novelty influence, so many more miles in different conditions are needed before passing tangible comment. Weldtite say by using the double helping technique I should exceed the 300km mark from a single application, but by how much. What influence, if any do damp, autumnal conditions have upon this and indeed, the lube’s other properties.

Plan is to run it through September and early October, then, chances are I’ll switch to the All-Weather Lube.

Staying with chains, I am always interested in new brushes and similar tech that makes cleaning that bit easier. In my experience, one of the biggest problems is keeping the bristles clean and effective long term.

Too much solvent tends to soften them. Wet lubes and contaminant can also be difficult to shift. This seems the case, regardless of price. I’ve found the most effective technique is to soak them in degreaser, work this into a lather and flush them through-twice. First with very warm, then cool water.

Finally dry (and remove any residual grot with clean rag) The long bristle plots, designed for cassettes and rings are the most vulnerable to this kind of contamination. Will be interesting to see how the Oxford compares with These Finish Line Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing     

 

As the miles rack up, I’m becoming increasingly endeared to the M Part Primo Handlebar Tape.

The texture is grippy but with none of the stickiness associated with some. I’m pleasantly indifferent to the tacky tapes and have grown to love some over time. The Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing being one example. ENVE  Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing is also grippy, though stops short of feeling tacky. Its also very hard wearing and easy to clean.

One thing led to another, and I found myself upgrading Denise's quill stem adaptor from the auction site special to this Profile Design, which is perhaps unsurprisingly, made to an infinitely higher standard, with greater scope for adjustment and clearly marked minimum insert line. I also treated the expander wedge and internal length with some of the Zefal Pro II Grease, which will hopefully keep corrosion and seizure at bay.  These minor tweaks have resolved the minor reach issues.  

While giving the bike a while I'm here once-over, I also noted the front wheel dancing a curious samba. I was somewhat astonished- must’ve caught a rut along a section of newly discovered byway. I switched to the Halo Evaura/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, while I left the Ryde Sputnik/Ultegra dynohub and Mavic Open Pro/Halo Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting with Mick Madgett. An opportunity to explore rougher stuff aboard Ursula and I’d been toying with switching the front Mud Hugger Evo Mudhugger Evo Front Mudguard | cycling-not-racing for something lighter and more minimalist to see just how much difference a smaller guard makes.

Mudguards (fenders) have been slowly creeping into the gravel market. I remain seriously impressed by the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racingbut other, arguably more traditional looking models have been creeping into the market. Some look to be models aimed at folks wanting their gravel bikes to serve as winter road bikes.

Provided your frame has eyelets and you were happy to run just a rear guard, cutting down a voluptuous mountain bike model, just before the bridge is a cheap but effective and done properly, presentable “for pennies” solution. One I’ve toyed with a few times. Old SKS are in some respects idea candidates- broad, really solid chrome plastics and stays, although unless you could pick some up very cheaply, I'd be inclined to repurpose a scrap pair for this kind of duty. 

As September progresses, I’ve been exploring more of the unmade roads and bridle paths, exploiting Ursula's true off-road pedigree into the bargain. Since her restoration last August, with the notable exception of winter spikes during the season's worst, I've kept her as a drop bar mountain bike shod with sturdy cross-country rubber. Despite some limitations, I'm quite fond of the Continental Cross Kings Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing, but more so the CST Patrol, which represent excellent bang for very modest buck.

In common with the Cross Kings, there are some limitations, especially in bogy mud but for hardpack and less challenging stuff, they're surprisingly swift and grippy.  2.25 sections are still practical propositions for older, cross country mountain bike framesets, while offering a decent amount of compliance and even at 50-55psi, ride quality isn't unduly harsh. There's still a decent amount of choice when it comes to 26-inch but few new models are coming through in this size. 

 

Sliding into September

 

After some long, steady miles and pre soggy season prep, I began contemplating stem lengths and wheel switches. Switching Denise to the WTB drops was a good decision. However, I’ve concluded I needed a shorter extension, since my proportionally short torso means I’m feeling a little stretched.

Cue a quick wander round the web and this 25mm long CNC machined unit from the Far East (of all places!) True, it lacks the exotica or refinement of some, but I was keen to ensure I’d got the correct length and could upgrade later down the line, should need arise. May also upgrade the quill adaptor-had to deal with some reticence when slackening, which ultimately led to discovering the expander wedge shedding its threads. I’ve replaced with one from the spares box and acquired this higher-end replacement and will substitute in due course.  While price typically reflects quality, it’s important to ensure a couple of things.

Firstly, don’t default to the Aheadset method, leave a millimetre or two of the top proud. Secondly, once you’ve everything aligned, ensure you’ve got some grease on the wedge and bolt before torquing it down to around 16nm. The wedge should be well and truly lodged in place- no wibble when rocking the bars as you might when turning sharply, say on as fast descent.  

 There are folks who really dislike quill converters full stop and there are a few options. Have a skilled frame builder add a threadless steerer to the existing fork crown- as Lee Cooper did here Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing. Alternatively, Inn Cycle offer a threadless conversion headset. Never seen one in the flesh, so can’t comment but they do look well engineered. Custom quill stems are another option.    

Mick Madgett built the Halo TK hub into the Ryde Taurus rim, which led me to switching Muffin’s Mavic Fix-G. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and giving it a good clean.  The sprocket had become quite scuzzy given a few weeks in very hot conditions, turning the Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube runnier and stickier, so it attracted more dirt. 

It will be interesting to see how the newest PTFE- free version fares in this and other respects. Both variants penetrate the chain’s inner sanctum very effectively and I’ve found the original very effective on fixed gear and single speed chains. Switching Muffin’s rear wheel has me wondering if the chainline was very slightly off with the Fix-G hub and I might need to revise the spacer widths to correct this.

Weldtite has also sent me the latest incarnation of a drip wax they’ve been working on for two years. Claimed to return 300km (186miles) in all conditions, not just balmy summer days, I’ve fed some to Denise’s KMC and Muffin’s Izumi and will see how it fares in the coming, increasingly autumnal weeks.

Generally speaking, I default to middle and heavier weight oils, rather than waxes, or more exotic blends when it comes to fixed and single speed chains. However, fair weather conditions and curiosity are why I’ve gone the wax route. Weldtite suggest you can double up for higher miles per application, so I’ve taken this route, without being overly generous.  

Curing times are influenced by temperatures and other factors, including humidity.  

Deep cleaning recipient drivetrains is essential when it comes to waxes and indeed, lubes of different genres. Applied in temperatures around 20 degrees and given a 45 second shake to mix everything thoroughly, it emerges from the spout very predictably, as middleweight creamy emulsion. Not one I’d risk applying indoors, mind. Curing times are in hours- bargain on four in these temperatures, leave it overnight if you can.

 When cured, it assumes a clear glazed state.  Formative impressions suggest low friction and crisp shifts. The bigger question will be how it sheds contaminant-does it attract less grime, is it one of those that flakes away when contaminant gets trapped in the outer layer, flaking off at a certain point to leave a thinner lubricant layer behind… I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which has (and continues to impress with its rugged, grippy natue-impressive in the wet and offering excellent connections with the bars.

Staying with wet stuff, I’d decided it was time to enjoy some forest and bridlepath fun aboard Ursula- I also wanted to see how the Continental Cross Kings and FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes coped with bogy mud. Spoiler alert, feet had more traction than tyres. Having ridden a few miles along some mixed, unmade roads and green lanes and generally enjoying ourselves, I couldn’t resist some very goopy bridlepath.

Whoosh…Big grin was quickly substituted by surprise as we hurled in slow motion towards a hedge. Mercifully, the resilient and relatively soft foliage caught our imminent slide, and I slowly came to soft earth, protecting Ursula into the bargain.  Knobblies had definitely become slicks, and as I suspected, the FLR’s Vibram soles will attract soft gloop. However, as I’d hoped, they do shed it surprisingly well- no issues with clipping in and out.  Having returned, I wasted no time in giving Ursla a justly deserved sudsy bucket wash, drivetrain purge, polish and switch to this Weldtite Wax. 

Fettling Orgies

 

Having packed pedals, since I wanted to see how stiff this particular lithium-based prep would be through the darker, wetter months, I applied to Denise’s Hollowtech II axle. There was ample Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing clinging on, but then was the time. I’d noted the pinch bolts and pre-load were a little dry. The former were unexpectedly arthritic, so regreasing was imperative before seizure could creep in and cause mischief at the least convenient moment.     

Lithium based preps have an unenviable reputation for gobbling seals, elastomers and other rubberised components and can be a little stodgy.  

Fine on contact points, and very durable on winter hubs, but not necessarily desirable if you're competing and want to keep resistance at a minimum. While there's more discernible resistance compared with blends such as Peaty's Speed Grease (which I also surprisingly durable) its much lower than I'd expected and buttery smooth.

Staying prowess, temperature stability, water resistance and general durability are definite plusses and explains their traditional popularity in marine and automotive applications. Time will tell, but at £4.99 for 150ml, at face value, it seems a bargain for generic metal on metal duties.  It’s also been applied to cleat hardware, (which we're all guilty of neglecting until time comes for their replacement).  

Galvanic corrosion, say between metals of different parentage can be another issue- I wouldn't apply lithium to a titanium seat post used in a steel, or aluminium alloy frame for example. However, I'd be less concerned about an anodised aluminium post being used in a steel frame. A polished, fluted aluminium alloy post and I'd be reaching for a synthetic, or failing that, something PTFE based. 

I’ve decided to stick with wax and dry lubes while the weather allows and having covered 250odd miles on the Blub Wax, I’ve got busy with some Carbon friendly drivetrain cleaner, which I’ve had for some years and resurrected from the lubes box. It’s fairly straightforward to apply-simply spray liberally on the drivetrain, leave for a couple of minutes, agitate with a stiff bristled brush, or something like this Finish Line Gunge Brush Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing

I reached for some Muc-Off Dry, since that was close to hand, MUC OFF DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing In my experience, its closer to an emulsion and requires at least four hours to cure properly. Like the Blub, can also melt when temperatures hit the high 20s. In this state, it’s still relatively durable but also readily transfers to hands-annoying if you’ve dropped a chain, or needing to tackle a mid-ride mechanical. Checking the chain health suggests more life than first believed just past .25, so reckon I’ll get to the close of October, possibly even November before its bin fodder. However, I’ve pruned a fresh one down to 108 links in readiness for a quick switch. I noted the front brake pads were looking a little tired, so took this opportunity to replace the pads and regrease the cantilever posts using the Zefal Pro II Grease, which was time well spent and another little job off the list before autumn.   

Talking of switches, following a hunch that packing single sided pedal bodies with a stout grease would offer some weighting (making engagement easier) I switched Muffin to the silver A520 and also moved the down tube bottle cage slightly, which improved access.  

I’m pleased to report the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice has added some weighting and thus, made re-entry (say when frequently clipping in and out in slow moving traffic) more convenient.  While I was there, I  noted the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing lamp rotating slightly on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing . easily cured by wrapping some scrap inner tube around the mount and replaced the 2.5mm cable ties.   

The nights were quickly drawing in, providing the perfect opportunity to assess the Magicshine Hori 1300’s prowess and I’ve been impressed, not only by the output but its useability. The wireless remote makes it very easy to toggle up and down to avoid dazzling other road users. To my surprise, though obviously good in the seen-with sense, the night flash is potent enough to navigate unlit roads by- at least to 14mph, which is useful should you need to drop down to conserve battery.