Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...

 

 

Reflections & Refinements

 

With the miles racking up and confidence in the Dawes increasing, I was able to enjoy its brisk, yet predictable persona and push it quicker along the lanes. The slightly wobbly rear wheel wasn’t causing any issues at this point, although obviously, I wanted a tweak on the jig- only at that point would I revise the rear brake’s setup.  

 

Everything else had settled down, although I wasn’t surprised to discover the quill stem wedge moving very slightly. Nothing, a more liberal turn of a 6mm Allen key wouldn’t cure. I pulled over mid ride to correct- no sense leaving it and I had a nice long 6mm bit handy, courtesy of the Cyclo 20 function multi tool CYCLO 20 FUNCTION MULTITOOL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).  

 

A minute or so later, tool was back in the SQR Tour, and I was spinning home at a nice cadence. Talking tools, here’s Steve’s review of the Wolf Tooth EnCase System Bar Kit One Multi Tool Wolf Tooth EnCase System Bar Kit One | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

I’ve bought another 9 function Giant Continuum Wireless Computer. Yes, this one’s also pink. I like these since they’re easy to set up, intuitive to use and via my supplier, gentle on the wallet.    

 

No need to tweak the Microshift/Tiagra tag team at this stage. I may well upgrade Ursula’s Tiagra, post refurb, only because the existing mech has done a lot of work, year-round and if I’m rebuilding the bike, it seems silly to scrimp unnecessarily. However, I’ll clean it up and “take a view” from there.  

 

The weather has become more temperate, dare I say summery, so I’ve been able to get the miles in and reach much firmer conclusions regarding the Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey and the Castelli Espresso Men’s Jersey.  

 

Both are very competent and true to some big claims, the Espresso is a lovely go-to. £130 certainly isn’t cheap and there are several competitors. However, some costing a good deal more. I’m hoping truing will address the braking issues, but I’ve also acquired a pair of these Suntour SE (Self energising) rear cantilevers, which I last recall from the late 1980s. They were something of a curiosity and rather like the XCD group (which I was also fond of) and in this instance at a price, seemingly impossible to resist.  

 

With their arrival, I’ve ordered some more straddle wires, since I had gone through my last supply and the Suntour weren’t supplied with any (not that I’d expected this). I’ve gone for Transfil, since they were favourably priced, and the brand are known to me. Transfil produced a very effective (if stubborn to fit) sealed brake and gear cable set but they also produce cables for the automotive industry.     

 

I’ve been warming to the Ergon SR AllRoad saddle, though not exotic materials-wise, it's not exotic, but very well executed, providing support in all the right places thus far.  The rear cutout has me curious and induced some laddish suggestions involving flatulence relief.  

 

According to Ergon, the “Deep Relief Channel” is, like others designed to relieve unwanted pressure. This design deepens progressively, leading to a small cut out. The design apparently gives greater “forgiveness” to the perineal region, while the hole’s positioning apparently overcomes some of the pitfalls of bigger cut outs.  

 

The obvious one that springs to mind is a very soggy crotch riding sans full length mudguards-gravel, adventure and cyclo cross bikes being obvious examples. It is noticeably deeper than I’ve traditionally come to expect and seems more than clever marketing thus far. One rider suggested the rear cut out was designed to protect the rider (indeed, stoker if fitted to a tandem) from fart reverb. I gave the sideways glance, but my inner child sniggered a bit.   

 

The Ergon will stay on the fixed for now, until I get the Dawes bedded in and refinements sorted. To a point where I can do something close to proper gravel and cross type off road duties. At that point, I’ll switch the rear wheel to a 42mm Continental Contact Plus. As I’ve said throughout, it's all part of the bonding process. Glad I had instated the Giant computer, missed being able to glance down and check my speed, distance and similar informative stuff.  I didn’t want an overly cluttered, congested feel to the bars either.   

 

Teal Deal

 

The Ryde/XT wheel arrived, meaning I could finish bolting everything together. I couldn’t get the rear CX50 to behave properly, or at least to my tastes, so I quit while ahead and reasoned I’d revisit once other components had bedded in and settled down. The rear wheel, though not dancing the samba, had clearly met the depot destroyers en route to me. A group who, in my experience (having temped in parcel sorting depots) shows contempt for anything labelled “Fragile”. I’ll get it trued at a convenient point 150 miles or so down the line.     

Faithful to the original build brief, I have not spent “fresh” money on the Dawes. Sure, some things, the USE seat post and rear wheel being a case in point were traded but not paid for. There was no need and sometimes, challenges are nice. I didn’t want to deviate from the bike’s clean gravel flavour. I’ve needed to renew the original dynamo wiring but the Exposure Revo came to life with minimal effort.  

I’ve tethered my long serving and distinctly weathered Carradice SQR Tour bag to the post- it'll carry everything I’d need and a bit more, while doubling as a useful mudguard.  I wished I’d slipped the butyl boot over the Dawes’ lower headset race when I had the opportunity, but for now, I’ll go without and see how well the grease holds out against the elements. I’ve gone for the Topeak Redline Aero USB rear light Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since its simple, quite potent and super frugal but this is likely to be accompanied by another, clipped to the Carradice-just in case.  

I’ve gone for a new computer- another 9 function Giant and yes, in pink since it was dirt cheap and I’m very secure in my masculinity.  This and maybe a high-power battery light, such as the Sigma Sport Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) will be the only definite additions/refinements. I was pleased to find my headset spanners too, since the Stronglight A9 was bound to need snugging down slightly, given a few miles. I’ll probably dig out a 42mm Continental for the rear, once the wheel’s been on the jig.   

I had also decided it was time to dress the Dawes’ chain in the Wolf Tooth All Conditions lube- I’d run the KMC in the factory lube until I’d run it for a couple of outings. Returning from our third outing, having snugged the headset down, I decided shifting was settled sufficiently. I’d had a few things crop up during the first forty miles, specifically the seat post cradle coming loose, causing some irritating rattle and ultimately, saddle movement. 

  

The USE SX post had a reputation for doing this in some circles but having snugged it tight by the roadside (as a kindly e- bike rider stopped to check all was well) I’ve not had any further issues. Having had a hectic few days in the garage, working on the Dawes but also replacing chains, deep cleaning the fixed (paying particular attention to the ENVE bar tape Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and similar maintenance, I wanted to again, stop before I got too carried away and to a point I wasn’t “ahead”.  

 

Therefore, aside from a slight dialling-in of the post’s travel and a liberal blast of Muc-Off Silicon sHine MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) on the internals beneath its boot, I resisted the urge to strip and re-grease. That’s a project for another time and in fairness, the post doesn’t seem hard used, or neglected. Doing so markedly improved the plushness and travel- not unexpected, since Muc-Off recommend it for suspension.  

 

When I do get round to a thorough disassembly, I’ll go for a middleweight synthetic blend, not anything containing PTFE, or lithium. These will knacker expensive composites and rubberised components with frightening ease. Been there and paid the price- with a set of Rock Shox Judy SL, in case you were wondering. 

 

Back to the Dawes, after some slight trepidation, I was relieved to find that my spec, contact points etc. were all a very harmonious mix. 

  

A lot’s changed in thirty odd years, but the Dawes handles very much as I’d hoped. Engaging and quick, yet very predictable. The larger (19 inch) frameset and less aggressively sloping top tube also mean it’s a lot easier to shoulder/carry cyclo cross fashion.  

 

Something to think about, if you’re looking to repurpose and older mountain bike frameset as a cyclo cross, or gravel build. Now, I’m not saying I wouldn’t be interested in riding, or testing a contemporary gravel bike, I’m inclined to say the Dawes has met my design brief with minimal compromise. Yes, I know, I’ll doubtless refine things a little as consumables wear out and suitable test goodies present but no major revisions.         

 

Despite theoretically heading toward the drier months, I’m contemplating mudguards for Ursula. Most now, save for a few exceptions are designed specifically for disc configurations. Not surprising since discs are now the default and I will probably take Ursula the Mudhugger MK2 route this time round, depending of course, whether the cantilever posts are kept post frame surgery.  

Winston says if they’re brazed, he’ll remove them, if they’re TIG welded, he’ll leave them be as they’re trickier to grind smooth. Talking of brazing, here’s my piece about the Holdsworth’s fork column repair Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)