Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...

 

 

Knickers!

 

It’s easy to overlook luggage, specifically their mounting kit. I was blatting along another filthy backroad when my serenity was rudely interrupted by a mysterious squeak. I initially (and irrationally) attributed to the USE SX post’s suspension components needing a strip, clean and fresh helping of Peaty’s Speed Grease. However, these are internal and very well sealed from the elements.  

Closer inspection revealed it was the Zefal R11 flap tickling the rear tyre and kit trying to make a bid for freedom. Pump, tubes and CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E Pump  CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing inflator tucked safely inside, I tethered straps tight (including the beefy post mount) and we were sway and binding free once more.  

I was also relatively surprised to find the Motorex Chain Wax still intact, albeit a little filmier, some fifty odd grotty miles down the line. I’d needed to top it up again, as a precaution (since it needs several hours and ideally a full night’s curing). However, unlike the very likeable Blub Wax, it isn’t unduly temperature sensitive and won’t degrade if the bike’s not been ridden in two, maybe three days.  

I’d also decided some nocturnal testing was in order. Having already had the Magicshine Allty 400’s Garmin type mount aboard the bars, I resurrected this Ray 2600, which puts out a total of 2,600 lumens. This is the predecessor to the Ray2600B (bluetooth) which requires an app. I've nothing against apps per e, I'd just much sooner have manual control and a remote, wired or otherwise.  

There are four basic, steady modes-170, 330, 650 and 1300lumens- using both lenses basically doubles this and there's also a smart ambient mode, should you fancy letting the light and its sensor technology lead. However, in common with other high-power designs with integral batteries, run times are relatively short in the highest settings, so best to use these sparingly, or buy a model with a medium setting that you can happily default to on the darkest of your rides.      

A few days later and temperatures tanked to minus 2, prompting me to huddle under the duvet and ignore the alarms longer than I ordinarily would. I woke Ursula and we headed out along the backroads, the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro’s gravelly patter reassuring me we’d remain upright along the sections of wet road that likely hid black ice and other nasty surprises.  

The left Microshift bar end shifter had also gone off tune in the freezing conditions, meaning temperamental shifting to the small ring. These seem more highly strung than the Centos, although still easy to live with. Front mechs, contrary to popular misconception tend to be tricky customers- ask anyone who’s had to keep a touring triple on song year round. Having popped Ursula on the Topeak  Flashstand eUP Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing  ,I deduced it was a cable tension and shifter tweak. Pulling the mech through at the mech cured 85% and a quick 2-minute tweak of the shift lever tension solved the remaining niggle-ha!   

I was also getting some squeal from the front disc but this was easily dismissed by engaging the front brake on a moderate descent-maybe the rotor was a little too clean.   

Back from another subzero ride on Ursula, I decided the Peaty's Link Lube Dry was beginning to look a little too conspicuous by its absence, confirmed when I touched the links. This prompted me to question compatibility between the Link Lubes. For example, the Rock N' Roll family of lubes can just be applied atop the other, should you fancy a change, say going from a dry to middleweight, or weight formula. The solvent properties within them strips any residual lube/gunk and cures, leaving only the new choice behind. Would the Link Lubes work in a similar way, the carrier stripping and priming, leaving the All-Weather in situ. Or would it react badly with any traces of Link Lube Dry., resulting in an oily mess... 

 

I gave the Link Lube All Weather a vigorous shake to mix the two parts and then drizzled into every link while spinning the cranks backward...Unlike the wax, there's no hanging around waiting for it to cure, but I popped Ursula away and went about my day.  Being minus 2, I headed out on Ursula the following morning and was pleasantly surprised to discover a lack of chemical animosity between the two lubes, although I had to scoop some residual gunk from the jockey wheels upon my return.       

 

The internet is a fabulous resource and, in this context, great for researching, learning, not to mention, shopping. However, scams appear to be on the rise. These tend to pop up in the right-hand panes of Facebook and the platform doesn't seem remotely interested in the association, which doesn't come as a complete surprise, give Mr Zukerberg's cow-towing to Donald Trump and disinformation. I had one that looked to be a genuine Endura link but when you click on it, it carries you over to a very different, yet plausible site -(Ounwear) with a familiar range of Endura goodies and plausible, not too cheap, not too steep. prices  

 

Take Endura Xtract ¾ lengths as a prime example. The Xtract employs their 400 series pad-a 15mm thick model with the usual anti-bacterial, fast wicking finish and strategically positioned gel for added comfort.   

 

Thing is, the typeset is different, Endura are based in Scotland, not the Far East, so you'll (a) not be supporting the brand, and its suppliers (b) won't get any genuine products and chances are, they'll pocket the cash. I'm not saying stick with only the official sites but check the vendor's credentials. 

 

Rubber Up. The Man Who Fell to Earth

 

No sooner had the snow fallen, temperatures rocketed, inducing a rapid thaw. Howling winds and torrential rain followed. Perfect conditions for switching from Ursula to Denise for some more, foul weather testing of the Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape and Lomo 13 litre Bikepacking Seat pack. Or so I thought. However, this is a cautionary tale regarding thermometers and internet weather forecasts. According to my devices, it hadn’t hit zero overnight. A few miles into the ride, I entered a bend and hit a stretch of sheet ice, taking us “rubber up”.  

Mercifully, nothing more serious than damaged Lycra and a trashed right hand RL520 lever. Having returned from the 15-mile loop, I wasted no time ordering a replacement pair, since I only had a couple of left-handed Tektro in the spares box. £20 all told but I could’ve done without it, especially given the time of year.  I’d also toyed with going the retro, non-aero route.  

On the one hand, this would make for easier cable replacement but would also mean unnecessary outlay. I’m not paying retro prices either (although suspect I may have a set of Campagnolo Athena that are reversible-new hoods are all I’d need). I’d also seen some Dia Compe 204 with integral quick release for £28.   

These good ideas cum rabbit holes can prove time consuming and ultimately, uneconomic.  Besides, effective repair was simply a question of undoing the inner wire, peeling back the bar tape and removing the broken lever, salvaging hoods and other parts as spares.    

I’d been on plenty of soggy outings with the Lomo and found it highly weather resistant but while the 5mm Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape has proven incredibly effective at isolating against road and trail buzz, I hadn’t been able to assess its wet weather prowess.  

I wasn’t surprised to discover, like most silicones grip and tenure are superb. Leach-like, but without the “gripping flypaper” sensation. Obviously, gloves with silicone imprinted palms are the ideal marriage, but traditional palms-synthetic, or leather come a close second.  

I’m also forming the conclusion that while offering excellent damping properties, without unduly muting connection, being 5mm thick, it could prove too bulky for smaller hands. As the photo illustrates, it also survived our tumble with terra firma completely unscathed.   

The wet, wintry conditions had finally licked Denise’s chain clean, so I went the full blown, bars to tyres deep clean route, stripping the residual WTB, degreasing and drying before reaching for the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing   

Staying with contact points, I read a comment recently regarding quill to Ahead converters and specifically, why people still use them. Sure, they can seize if not greased properly and the guest stem needs to be snugged very tight but they’re also a very inexpensive way of running a modern stem on an older bike.   

Denise Gravel on A Dustbowl Budget PT V Lesson | cycling-not-racing sports one and thus far, its proving dependable. Admittedly, I have used a suitably stiff grease- Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and check it periodically to ensure nothing’s turning arthritic. Judging by the pedal threads and fasteners, it’s both highly water and wash-off resistant.   

Having the steerer tube cut and replaced a ’la the Holdsworth Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing is arguably a more reliable method but will require a compatible Aheadset, which are getting trickier to find. Unlike replacing the fork steerer, there’s no risk of cracking the fork crown and paint stands a sporting chance of remaining intact too. Other folks will cite period authenticity, and I can also empathise with this school. However, in the latter context, it's easily reversed.  

Talking of bulk, while I’m fond of the Lomo, for everyday duties, I’m drawn to something smaller. A quick rummage in the rafters unearthed this Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing, which is surprisingly rigid and sway-free, despite employing a single Velcro post strap. No issues with fouling the seat post since the USE SX’s bouncy bits are neatly tucked away inside.  

The Passport Bike Packing Seat Pack PASSPORT CYCLES BIKEPACKING SEAT PACK | cycling-not-racing is likely to make a return, and it should also play nicely with the USE SX seat post, but Topeak’s UK importer has sent me the brand’s  Backloader Wishbone.  

It has a maximum payload of 2kilos, so not quite a panacea, but looks much better engineered than the auction site special (although arguably it should be, being three times the homage’s ticket price). Will be interesting to see how much well it tames sway with the 6litre back loader Topeak Back Loader Seat Pack | cycling-not-racing and indeed, some bigger models.