Diversions Still Waters & Simplicity

 

There's much to be thankful for but sometimes it feels as if I'm living on borrowed time. I had hoped to be more secure, dare I say, recession-proof by this point in my life but then life can often divert us. Factors such as intelligence and education are significant in determining our future, but are two very different things.

Then of course, there are those who just inherit wealth and can live off the security this provides. I’m often amused (and privately infuriated) by those who inherit a successful business and purport to be self- made. A  narrative often reinforced by their family and immediate circle. Often overlooked in all of this is the ability to adapt. Those who cannot (or will not) are at a pronounced disadvantage.    

The pandemic arguably reconfigured the construct of certainty-the importance of making the most of everyday and in every way possible.  There are balances of probability but no guarantees.  Nostalgia is a dangerous distraction, although I can readily appreciate the sense of comfort it may bring.

Occasionally high-end NOS components pop up at very tempting prices. Some are still very relevant- I saw a pair of Suntour XCD single speed hubs-120mm spacing, so (almost) perfect for a single-speed winter/trainer based around a track/road path frameset. Cup and cone simplicity but with beefy seals to keep the elements out.  As an engineer once aid to me, there's a fine line between beneficial and overly complex enclosure. 

I've always been drawn to hub gearing but deterred by accessibility and being honest wheel removal following a flat is more involved. Not what I want on a cold January morning ten miles from home, but others would rightly point out is a matter of familiarity.

Could it be an irrational fear of something different... I spotted this Halo TK track hub going for a proverbial song- 32 holes and white, which explains the favourable asking price. I can live with white. I also spotted a 32-hole Ryde Taurus rim going for considerably less than the otherwise excellent Sputnik. It’s intended for gravel and similarly heavy-duty duties, so perfect for the rigors of winter.

Sealed cartridge bearings, freewheel one side, fixed the other-what's not to like. This kind of spec also lends itself to single speed cyclo cross, which has always appealed to me- mud, simplicity and ease of cleaning are definite draws. Then again, I'm always saying these things, only for the completed vision to evolve into something more complex, some might say cluttered. Denise wasn't intended to sport a four-point rack or secondary lighting, but these have proved immensely practical additions. 

I've switched Muffin to the Shimano PD ED500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing since I fancied a change and wanted to further test my theory that shoes such as the FLR MTX and Shimano GTX are best suited to broader bodies, which provide some additional support and offset some flex that's required of a shoe also designed to be walked in. Pedal body width is also mitigated by 165mm cranks and a lofty bottom bracket. 

I'd been tempted to go the dual sided Exustar route, but aside from the additional heft, I was only going to be using the SPD side. I my experience, dual sided-whether SPD, or TIME ATAC is always the most convenient marriage- step in and scoot off. No faffing and flailing trying to locate the cleated side.

That said, if you did want to go the single sided route, patterns such as Shimano's now discontinued A520, or the current ES600 (Ultegra grade) have a tapered profile, providing greater support to touring and bikepacking shoes. One thing led to another, and I found myself stripping the M540 and XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing pedals, filling the former with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, the latter with some Zefal lithium grease- the latter was green and visually reminiscent of Shimano’s factory stuff.  

With the mercury hitting the high 20s, I decided it was time to give Denise a sudsy bucket clean and switch to some Blub Wax chain lube before heading out for some dusty byway blasting- I was keen to see how securely the Wolf tooth cages would hold 750ml bottles off road.

Not that I was expecting any ejection-there wasn’t (although stainless cages can still prove quite springy, depending on the diameter). The Wolf Tooth are relatively slender, so will fit nicely with older road bikes with pencil-thin tube sets and are a good aesthetic fit on Denise. Since I was there, I removed Denise’s USE seat post and blasted some waxy corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube, then applied some of the Zefal to the post, binder bolt, not forgetting the quill adaptor.  I’d also noted that the stem and wedge bolts were somewhat stubborn, so treated the threaded sections more generously. Aside from a good connection, this would also test for galvanic corrosion, which was a traditional issue with lithium, greases and metals of different parentage.  

 I’d also found two razor sharp hedge clippings buried deep in the front Maxxis Rambler- new tube, old one patched and a noter to replenish my 700c stock.      

I will switch the cages over to Muffin, since Wolf Tooth claim they’re designed to accommodate frames where space is at a premium, whether this be a compact main triangle, or one consumed by bike packing luggage. Though not tricky, I'm finding removal of those bigger, trade bottles less convenient on the seat tube with the existing composite models, due in part to the Topeak frame fit pump nestling beneath the top tube.  

Something I'd expect, given the price, but bottle entry and release with the Wolf Tooth is super dependable-even when hossing along. I've also been pleasantly surprised by how well the Silca bar tape has coped off road. Leach like purchase was expected, and I like the direct connection with the bars, but no jarring, or fatigue thus far.    

As for the Blub, this doesn't cure to the usual paraffin type consistency, rather assumes a wetter state-something I'd forgotten and came as a surprise when I glanced down at the drivetrain. Some waxes just run very clean, others scab off when the weight of contaminant reaches a critical mass. I decided to clean some accumulated gunk from the jockey wheels after a few off road excursions, which was strangely satisfying.

Miles per application is surprisingly good from this and its ceramic cousin, but both need to be reapplied if bikes have been standing for 48 hours. Not an issue for a daily driver, but potentially impractical on a best, or race bike that may only come out at weekends. 

Knickers!

 

It’s easy to overlook luggage, specifically their mounting kit. I was blatting along another filthy backroad when my serenity was rudely interrupted by a mysterious squeak. I initially (and irrationally) attributed to the USE SX post’s suspension components needing a strip, clean and fresh helping of Peaty’s Speed Grease. However, these are internal and very well sealed from the elements.  

Closer inspection revealed it was the Zefal R11 flap tickling the rear tyre and kit trying to make a bid for freedom. Pump, tubes and CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E Pump  CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing inflator tucked safely inside, I tethered straps tight (including the beefy post mount) and we were sway and binding free once more.  

I was also relatively surprised to find the Motorex Chain Wax still intact, albeit a little filmier, some fifty odd grotty miles down the line. I’d needed to top it up again, as a precaution (since it needs several hours and ideally a full night’s curing). However, unlike the very likeable Blub Wax, it isn’t unduly temperature sensitive and won’t degrade if the bike’s not been ridden in two, maybe three days.  

I’d also decided some nocturnal testing was in order. Having already had the Magicshine Allty 400’s Garmin type mount aboard the bars, I resurrected this Ray 2600, which puts out a total of 2,600 lumens. This is the predecessor to the Ray2600B (bluetooth) which requires an app. I've nothing against apps per e, I'd just much sooner have manual control and a remote, wired or otherwise.  

There are four basic, steady modes-170, 330, 650 and 1300lumens- using both lenses basically doubles this and there's also a smart ambient mode, should you fancy letting the light and its sensor technology lead. However, in common with other high-power designs with integral batteries, run times are relatively short in the highest settings, so best to use these sparingly, or buy a model with a medium setting that you can happily default to on the darkest of your rides.      

A few days later and temperatures tanked to minus 2, prompting me to huddle under the duvet and ignore the alarms longer than I ordinarily would. I woke Ursula and we headed out along the backroads, the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro’s gravelly patter reassuring me we’d remain upright along the sections of wet road that likely hid black ice and other nasty surprises.  

The left Microshift bar end shifter had also gone off tune in the freezing conditions, meaning temperamental shifting to the small ring. These seem more highly strung than the Centos, although still easy to live with. Front mechs, contrary to popular misconception tend to be tricky customers- ask anyone who’s had to keep a touring triple on song year round. Having popped Ursula on the Topeak  Flashstand eUP Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing  ,I deduced it was a cable tension and shifter tweak. Pulling the mech through at the mech cured 85% and a quick 2-minute tweak of the shift lever tension solved the remaining niggle-ha!   

I was also getting some squeal from the front disc but this was easily dismissed by engaging the front brake on a moderate descent-maybe the rotor was a little too clean.   

Back from another subzero ride on Ursula, I decided the Peaty's Link Lube Dry was beginning to look a little too conspicuous by its absence, confirmed when I touched the links. This prompted me to question compatibility between the Link Lubes. For example, the Rock N' Roll family of lubes can just be applied atop the other, should you fancy a change, say going from a dry to middleweight, or weight formula. The solvent properties within them strips any residual lube/gunk and cures, leaving only the new choice behind. Would the Link Lubes work in a similar way, the carrier stripping and priming, leaving the All-Weather in situ. Or would it react badly with any traces of Link Lube Dry., resulting in an oily mess... 

 

I gave the Link Lube All Weather a vigorous shake to mix the two parts and then drizzled into every link while spinning the cranks backward...Unlike the wax, there's no hanging around waiting for it to cure, but I popped Ursula away and went about my day.  Being minus 2, I headed out on Ursula the following morning and was pleasantly surprised to discover a lack of chemical animosity between the two lubes, although I had to scoop some residual gunk from the jockey wheels upon my return.       

 

The internet is a fabulous resource and, in this context, great for researching, learning, not to mention, shopping. However, scams appear to be on the rise. These tend to pop up in the right-hand panes of Facebook and the platform doesn't seem remotely interested in the association, which doesn't come as a complete surprise, give Mr Zukerberg's cow-towing to Donald Trump and disinformation. I had one that looked to be a genuine Endura link but when you click on it, it carries you over to a very different, yet plausible site -(Ounwear) with a familiar range of Endura goodies and plausible, not too cheap, not too steep. prices  

 

Take Endura Xtract ¾ lengths as a prime example. The Xtract employs their 400 series pad-a 15mm thick model with the usual anti-bacterial, fast wicking finish and strategically positioned gel for added comfort.   

 

Thing is, the typeset is different, Endura are based in Scotland, not the Far East, so you'll (a) not be supporting the brand, and its suppliers (b) won't get any genuine products and chances are, they'll pocket the cash. I'm not saying stick with only the official sites but check the vendor's credentials.