Mr Tickle… Disciplining the TRP Spyre

 

No, I’m not referring to Roger Hargreaves creation, or the office letch…I’d been experiencing some very minor, intermittent tickling with Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre. Now, lifting the rear wheel and turning the pedals confirmed the rotor was true and the calliper correctly centred. Ditto the rear wheel.

Before touching anything else, pop the bike on the ground, slacken the quick release and ensure the wheel’s correctly seated within the dropouts. Snug the quick release down and close the lever.

Double check by lifting the rear wheel (popping the bike in a tune up stand, such as this Topeak, makes this and any subsequent tweaking much simpler.) In this instance, everything was behaving impeccably, so this left frame flex. It only happened under load, say when accelerating and would then smooth out. Thru axles are much stiffer, largely eliminating this issue.

Some deliberation and a quicker wander round the web suggested slipping a 3mm Allen key in the pad adjusters and backing the pads out fractionally either side. This would buy a smidge more gap between the rotor, without impairing stopping prowess. Accessing the pad adjusters was tricky, although this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing  came into its own.

Maybe it was psychosomatic but pumping the brake lever a few times suggested small but tangible improvement. Being as it was late in the evening, I wanted to quit while ahead, ruling out becoming wired, dare we say obsessional. Road testing was left until the following morning.  

The humble Spyre divide opinion and in my experience, they require a little more patience to setup and finer adjustments then onward. However, for the most part, they’re straightforward customers and much better fit for me than Avid BB7. Hybrid models, including TRP HY/RD are cable operated but employ a hydraulic reservoir, automatically adjusting pads as they wear.

They work well in my experience. However, the hydraulics are another thing to service. I’d even toyed with buying a different brand of rear calliper. Shimano BR-R517 and 317 seemed a good bet. However, there wasn’t anything wrong with the Spyre, so the sensible, cost-free (save for time) decision was to analyse, trouble shoot, tweak, ride and repeat. The intermittent tinkling continued and the only thing I hadn’t ruled out was rotor health.

Now, the rotor fitted came straight from the brake spares box, so was part worn and intended to get us going following Ursula’s renovations. Pensioning off seemed like a good move and would rule that out as a potential source. No amount of calliper alignment would work if the rotor was slightly warped. Not enough to create mischief in the work stand but amplified by minor flex under pedalling force. I’ve gone for a 160mm Disco brakes Wavey, since I had excellent experiences with one tested back in 2022 Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing . It’s gone up in price but is stainless and very much a known quantity.  

Some Deore rotors going for the proverbial song (£10 pair) so indulged, since like most consumables, rotors wear out and at the least convenient moments. Since conditions allowed, I decided to whip out Ursula's Kinkekt2.1 KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing seat post and blast some corrosion inhibitor down the seat tube, before the weather turned.

I toyed with the idea of making a butyl boot for the Kinekt post but didn't have any suitably broad scrap butyl to hand. Neoprene covers are one solution, but they also hold moisture, which can cause corrosion and similar problems later down the line. I dried the post and give the moving parts a shot of Muc-Off Silicone Spray MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing

One thing led to another-since time and weather permitted. The drivetrain was blitzed using Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing, followed by a through sudsy bucket washing and waxing.  Fully dried, I decided to use up some leftover Finish Line Dry Lube TEST & REVIEW FINISH LINE DRY BIKE LUBRICANT - it was a small, saddlebag size that I'd had since the dawn of time and just taking up space. 

I didn't fancy the wax route this time round but wasn't ready for a stodgier oil-based lubricant just yet. A quick shot of MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing on the cables, cleat mechanisms and pivot points to flush any residual water out concluded this impromptu post-ride fettling. I’ll close here with my long-term review of the System EX Pro Grease Gun The System EX Pro Grease Gun | cycling-not-racing

Change Your Weather, Change Your Luck…

 

September has brought with it refreshing rains, which flooding aside, is very welcome for water levels, life and er, product testing. A long, dry spell is great for making the most of our best bikes. Extreme heatwaves aren’t particularly comfortable, even with SPF50 jerseys, shorts and sunscreen, our bodies take a toll.

I’ve been glad to reach for the ultralight, packable race jacket (not to be confused with the old school condom type, which kept the rain off but didn’t breathe. A rabid, sweaty mess isn’t the best look), cap and arm warmers-just in case. It’s also been my cue to tackle some preventative maintenance.

Aside from overhaling long-serving, faithful dyno hubs, I’ve taken the opportunity to re-grease quick release skewers, thru-axle converters, since they’re easily overlooked. Prevention is always better than penetrant spray and persuasion. I also needed to adjust the front brake, which had become a little impotent. Just a question of pulling the inner wire through, snugging the lever’s cable holder and calliper pinch bolts down.  

The Juice Lubes Slick Juice seemed an ideal candidate, not least since I’m exploring its qualities and limitations.  Same goes for bike washes and similar potions, although dry, dusty spells mean bikes tend to get coated in a stubborn filmy layer. Especially around the rear triangle, bottom bracket and downtube.

Tyres are another consideration as we transition to hedge clipping season and of course, wetter, colder conditions. Both are conducive to cuts, punctures and similar stuff I’d sooner not be tackling by the roadside with numb digits.  I switched Muffin’s 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech for a 35mm Vee Tire Co Zilent MK2 TESTED: VEE TIRE CO ZILENT MARK 2 TYRES that I’d resurrected while on a different treasure hunt. In common with the Adventure Tech, it’s a portly but dependable wire bead model with a 5mm thick puncture repelling centre strip and an aramid strip running bead to bead.

 There are similarities with Schwalbe Marathon too. The centre strip works with a capillary action to push thorns, glass and similar out from the tyre. Muffin’s other dyno hub wheel is shod with a bigger (42mm) Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES which I may well switch to during drier, fair-weather spells. The front Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger Mudguard MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing  will manage 40mm. I experimented with a model identical to that sported by Ursula. However, it wouldn’t sit high enough around the fork crown, so back to the drawing board. The guard was only £1.50, so no great loss.

 Now was also prudent to do a tube inventory and retire or patch any suspect looking examples.  

Leather saddles are very durable but require a quick lick of hide food every so often. I’d suggest every six to eight weeks as a rough n’ ready. This will keep the hide nourished and protected from the elements. The Spa Nidd pictured has served me well, year-round, for thirteen years.

The wetter weather has also presented an opportunity to get a proper feel for how well the Nutrak Vee Swift Gravel Mud Frenzy cope in softer conditions. We’ve not got to the gloop proper as yet, but they’ve cut through softer sections reassuringly well. Something I attribute to a mix of profile and tread pattern. Pressure also plays a part. I’ve been running them between 50 and 55psi, the upper end of their range, given I’ve been doing a mix of tarmac, trail and green lane.

Despite this, their relatively supple casings ensure sprightly,, yet compliant passage over washboard surfaces, tree roots, stones and ruts. I’m expecting them to cope better than 2.1-, or 2.3-inch cross country mountain bike rubber due to these characteristics and greater clearance. Theoretically, less chance of clogging around fork crown and rear triangle.  Time will tell.

The M Par Ridge Pannier rack also continues to grow on me. There are some limitations common to single tier designs per se, but lateral stiffness is excellent-even with heavy loads. I’ve also been impressed by oodles of heel clearance with big (20 litre) panniers, including the mighty Lomo Zephyr and this Halfords Advanced Waterproof Pannier Bag.

Aside from the top sections, which employ nuts with nylon inserts, I’ve applied some medium strength thread lock to the fasteners- precautionary but good practice, especially when hauling the proverbial kitchen sink, or escaping the maddening crowd.    

 

Revise, Run & Reflect

 

This is a principle I generally apply in broad strokes terms, not simply to bicycles, but is particularly relevant in this context. For some years now, I’ve tended to work potential changes out on paper first, evaluating the pros and cons before committing myself. Product testing is a different kettle of fish. Manufacturers and distributors sometimes send stuff on spec and I’ very receptive to “lucky dips”. I’m referring to matters such as braking, steering and gearing. In the latter context.

I’m staying with a 2x setup.

A third ring will barely get used, so will just add weight and complexity. 32x22 rings coupled with a 12-28, or 12-30 cassette provides sufficient range for most of my riding contexts. Sure, a 48 ring would offer some bombing prowess but spin-out isn’t something I’m struggling with. Even with the trailer and decent cargo en tow, there’s sufficient torque for 17mph cruising and faster descending without loosing out on the climb. A well-honed cantilever, or cable operated disc setup has sufficient bite for 20 odd kilos and 1in 7 descents-provided you’re not in Kamikaze mode.

On several occasions, I’ve toyed with ideas of upgrading to a more expensive cable-operated disc configuration. However, aside from some quirks, especially when it comes to setup, the Spyre and SLC are still very simple to work on and provide enough bite. Hydraulics have been another recurrent temptation. More bite, lower maintenance but set up and servicing are not as straightforward as some suggest.

A well-equipped local bike shop is worth their weight in gold and, all things being equal. would be only too happy to setup and maintain. However, even the best maintained components and bikes can malfunction, often at the least convenient moment. All I need carry on a cable-operated setup are a suitable multitool, spare inner wires and some pads. The latter I’d save for a big ride, or tour but you get the idea.

Talking of touring, I’ve been getting some more serious miles done with the M Part Ridge Rear Pannier Rack and continue to be impressed with its generic compatibility. By that I mean its plug and play compatibility with most mounting hardware, including Rixen Kaul, this Lomo Zeyphr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing. Topeak’s Handleloc system found on their Pannier Drybag 16litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing required some shims (binding some old butyl around the rack tubing has similar results). Either way, reliable union is readily achievable.

 While I’ve had no heel clearance or similar issues with 20 litre models, I am forming the opinion the rack’s angular profile is optimal longer, narrower designs, such as the Topeak and Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing The top section is slightly broader than its Summit cousin, which came as a pleasant surprise and makes it a better host for rack top bags.   

I am a proponent of powder coated finishes-at least well applied, good quality powders. The satin black looks classy and more importantly, is holding up well against the usual fitting and removing. While I wouldn’t get unduly concerned about the everyday wear and tear, beyond a certain point, I’d be inclined to have it refinished along with some other parts (to keep things cost effective). Prevention is always better than cure. Dressing the rails in old butyl tube, or electrical tape largely renders this a moot point.

Talking of dressing, the temperatures are slowly tempering and dropping to more seasonally typical figures. Layering is the most obvious, time-honoured solution but some manufacturers, including Castelli offer apparel designed to bridge the gap between summer and early autumn.

Contexts where it is typically temperate, but it can turn cool, or damp during the course of a ride. A packable jacket helps protect against wind chill, showers and more persistent rainfall; arm warmers keep short sleeve jerseys practical when temperatures fluctuate. ¾ lengths divide opinion, but my when the temperatures are dropping and they’ll dry quicker than tights when the heavens open. Much will depend on how long you’re out riding but a cap and liner gloves and a buff can come in similarly useful.

Rains have brought the temperature down and meant bikes get grimier. Perfect for evaluating the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Grease’s staying prowess and of course, the brand’s bike wash and concentrate formulas.

Chains are still dressed in the All-Mountain-Style Miami Glide Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing and I see no reason to switch until October. By that point, I suspect I’ll be pensioning off Muffin’s KMC Z510 HX in favour of a Z1 Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  and test lubes aside, likely defaulting to Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . The All-Weather Lube is less tenacious than stodgy wet formulas, but cleaner, requires no curing time and is easily topped up.     

 

Calculated Gambles

 

 I’d been pondering whether the Shimano Ultegra dynohub’s grease had turned to watery gravy and needed to investigate. I’d always understood Shimano, unlike Shutter Precision, were partially user serviceable. The right side could be stripped and overhauled using a 15mm cone spanner and 17mm for the locknut. Trepidation cast aside, I rounded up spanners, greases, clean rags and solvent. The locknut was quite stubborn, which in some respects is a good sign, but submitted without recourse to penetrant spray.

 Locknut and cone removed, the grease had assumed an oily, but still functional state. The loose balls and bearing races were also free of pitting and similar wear. I toyed with the idea of repacking with Juice Lubes Slick Juice but reached for their Bearing Juice The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing on the grounds of outright staying prowess. Even allowing for the recent heatwave, viscosity meant it was a little messier to apply but no issues once I’d transferred the excess to the cone.

This would also help seal the elements out. Getting the bearing tension bang on took four attempts. Back in the forks, neurotic checking revealed zero play. Hub strips tend to be annual, or thereabouts, so I can get away with some cheap but cheerful cone spanners. Unlike some cheapies, Lifeline seem accurately machined and sturdy enough for periodic use.

I’ve since invested in this 15mm Park, replacing the Tacx someone borrowed and felt entitled to keep.  I took the Slick Juice route with the trailer’s hub, which, as expected has reduced friction. Will be interesting to see how well it stands up to the elements, especially since it's right in the firing line of puddles and other dodgy water.  I’ve periodically had the idea of upgrading the trailer’s wheel but talked myself out of it. A New Old Stock Deore unit was waved under my nose for less than £8, so I indulged. I’ll seek out a suitable rim, but only at the right price, since all this is want, not need.  

Overhaul complete, I treated Denise to a deep clean. Though not obviously dirty, given the prolonged, dry spell, rear wheel, rack, rear triangle and fork crowns were coated in a stubborn dusty layer. Buckets, Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing, Juice Lubes Bike Cleaner, Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing and assorted brushes rounded up, twenty minutes later, Denise was washed, dried and lightly re-lubed. Knowing when to down tools and pack up-quitting while ahead is another important skill. Sometimes, if it aint broke, don’t fix it.  

 The chain was still below .25 on the chain wear indicator, and I was going to run the fleet on wax lubes for as long as conditions permitted. Back to testing Ursula’s M Part Ridge Pannier rack and some fixed gear frolicking aboard Muffin. Having discovered the Ride’s top section broader than the Summit-confirmed when strapping my long serving Carradice Super C atop.

This was filthy, so I decided to take it for a thirty-degree Tour De Zanussi, adding some wash-in proofing. Now, this isn’t strictly the way to treat cotton duck, so a gamble at my own risk. However, it seems to have emerged in good health. I decided to take my 25-year-old SQR Tour the same route since, while very solid, it was looking very jaded. The sun and other elements had bleached the fabric in places and there’s no getting that back, but it was at least, clean and re-proofed.   

This also presented the ideal opportunity to give the washing machine’s soap try a thorough cleaning to remove accumulated soap scum and similar.

 Ideally, we should follow manufacturer instructions regarding care to the letter and have no recourse, should we deviate. Those of you looking to reproof cotton duck luggage should give them a good wash and then apply Carradice’s own reproofing wax.  I even found a box of high-quality patches, which was another pleasant surprise.

One thing led to another. I decided it was high time I had a sort through of the work bench. I decanted a myriad of small fasteners, mounts and similar into dedicated zip lock baggies and found and appropriate storage box. I’d been slightly disappointed by the OEM Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing Garmin pattern mount adorning Ursula’s bars but hadn’t found a suitable contender.

Firmly in the zone, I discovered a couple of Magicshine mounts- the type employed on the marque’s Allty and Ray series. These employ a Garmin pattern head mount and a series of straps, so a universal fit. One, already attached was in Goldilocks territory. Sixty seconds later, a neater, sturdier host. A small but very satisfying upgrade.

Next, I decided to road test my hypothesis that wrapping some scrap inner tube around the quick-release trailer hitches would act as a damper. One producing a tighter union, silencing a slight rattle.  Formative impressions are favourable, although trailer release is less convenient than ideal. Maybe thinner tube, or even electrical tape is the solution... 

 

 

 

       

Stopping, Hauling, Stems & Stubborn Rubber

 

Having tamed the rogue rear stopper and rack/trailer compatibility, I decided it was time to switch the rear Specialized Crossroads EX for the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy for the full experience. Again, I was so grateful for the Cyclo Advanced Tyre Fitting and Removal Tool, since they've proven a very stubborn fit from the packet.

Unclear at this stage whether they'll relax any with time and use. I should point out I was able to mount them to The Ryde Sputnik, but not the Mavic X17, although this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Ryde’s Shimano XT hub bearings- I’d set them a little tight during the last overhaul and hadn’t made time to correct this until now. On went a fresh 12-28 cassette, since I was there, for super convenient exchanges.

It will be a few months before I can arrive at any definite conclusions in any case, especially when it comes to their prowess in wet, muddy conditions. Nonetheless, thus far they're proving quite frisky and grippy across a multitude of surfaces. No cuts, or flats as yet, but all things being equal, I wouldn't expect so for at least a few hundred miles.

On the subject of durability, I was surprised to discover The Genetic Hi Grip Handlebar Tape Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing had expired, or rather the EVA backing had separated from the top layer. Thankfully, I had silicones and others "in stock". I ultimately reached for this Selcoff, which looks and feels very similar to the Genetic.

I’d also decided to make a new shim for Denise’s Exposure Revo Dynamo Lamp mount- the old butyl bodge was looking a little tired and I’d found a better candidate while hunting some fasteners. Pruned and snugged to the recommended 3nm-one of those simple, yet strangely satisfying serendipitous jobs.    

The continued drought conditions also mean I've not been able to test the waterproof properties of this Lomo carry sack, which I'd been sent to pair with my Yak homage. The original carry bag, though made of a waterproof fabric, has stitched seams without welding or taping. Consequently, rain will always find its way inside-not ideal on a supermarket run, let alone a week’s tour.

 Staying with trailers a moment, I found an old front mudguard (fender to those of you in the US and Canada) and modified it slightly before securing via the trailer bed’s quick release and a couple of zip ties.  The M Part Ridge Rack is doing its thing competently and without fanfare-much as I’d expected.

I cited some issues with the design’s proportionately shorter arms, and I’d like to see a revision, but if your frame(s) didn’t have the full four-point mounts, there are neat alternatives to the humble and generally effective P-clips. Now, Ursula’s frame threads are in good shape thirty years down the line. 

However, if your chosen frame is otherwise good (maybe you had it refinished a couple of years back, but carrier threads are a bit weary), a seat clamp with rack mounts, such as this M Part could prove an inexpensive, reliable way forward. The other possible option is to have the threads repaired using a heli-oil kit. Personally, this could be tricky, since there's not a lot of metal here. I’d leave that to an experienced shop mechanic or framebuilder. Especially if you weren’t familiar and comfortable with tapping threads.

Thoughts have also returned to Ursula’s stem. The existing unit is functional, proves the 45-degree angle was correct in practice. However, it's also a little crude.

While indulging in some reader's rides type porn, I happened upon Velo Orange's Happy Stem, which is 45 degrees, available in silver or black and 90, or 110mm lengths. I'd be needing the 90mm, wanting the black and being want, rather than need, I'll defer gratification, shift some unwanted stuff on eBay and reflect accordingly. 

Otherwise, I'm very happy with the series of subtle revisions made over the past few months. I’ve experienced shoulder discomfort or many years. This was largely rectified through a bike fit back in 2008, which determined that my legs are of identical length, but my right femur is longer, creating an imbalance. Insoles certainly helped, but, like most of us, I’ve had the odd, sometimes brutal encounter with terra firma over the past forty years...

As my late father remarked, albeit in the context of motorcycling, it doesn’t matter how good a rider you are, or think you are, you will always come off. My left shoulder has communicated its frustration and disdain from time to time, requiring time on a therapists' table to rectify. Mercifully, not too frequently, nor is it indicative of a degenerative condition. Something that had crossed my mind, some years ago, since my late father struggled with fibromyalgia in the last years of his life.

Some people would suggest that regret is pointless. A standpoint I understand, since we cannot change the past, but we can change our relationship to it and not repeat the mistakes that led us to that point. On the plus side, I read people and situations very accurately and navigate accordingly,

Anecdotally, I have also noted an increase in people seemingly unable to listen and look beyond a dogmatic prejudice, or similar set of inaccurate assumptions. There have been many times in my life (on two wheels and elsewhere) where had I assumed, I would’ve been dead or left with life changing injuries.  That young woman walking along a dirt road…Is she in the third trimester of pregnancy, or is she packed with plastic explosive…       

I’ll close on a happier note with Steve’s review of POC’s Cadence Jersey  POC Cadence Jersey Mens' | cycling-not-racing  and Leatt’s Therma Flow Hoodie 3.0 Leatt MTB ThermaFlow Hoodie 3.0 | cycling-not-racing