I'll Just...

 

January is a tricky month in every respect. The festivities forgotten, replaced by an unsettling silence. Some folks await the fiscal hangover, others plunge themselves into projects and traditionally, it’s a time of year when I disappear to the garage, fuelled by those nights where an idea can evolve into the ONLY idea.

I was recovering from a sudden, unwelcome seasonal lurgi and feeling infinitely better, (save for an infected tooth, spotted by my dentist during a routine checkup) decided I’d switch Denise to gravel rubber and complete testing of the Zefal Shield G50.Zefal Shield G50 Mudguards | cycling-not-racing Wheels fitted, tyres inflated to the desired pressure, I then discovered the rear Kore cantilevers were dragging. Hmm, just a case of changing the inner wire and a quick tweak of the balance screws.  

No joy. After some deliberation, I concluded the Tektro RL520 must be pulling too much cable, so after a quick rummage of the spares boxes, I recovered a silver RL340 designed for cantilever and side pulls and made the switch. Closer, but definitely not right.  By this point, we were coming close to midnight- I’d planned to have everything sorted and safely tucked up in bed long beforehand. Firmly in the zone, I discovered a missing balance screw, so decided to strip them from the bosses and switch to another set. This also presented an opportunity to regrease the cantilever posts with Zefal Pro II Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing.

Refitted, snugged tight, some minor tweaking of the balance screws- sorted. Ok, so a few localised squirts of MO94 were needed, since I’d forgotten to flush the outers through in my diagnostic phase. The RL340 and 520 levers have slightly different profiles, apparent when looking down at the hoods but close enough aesthetically. Moreover, I had a fully functional rear stopper.

 Once-overs completed, bars redressed in the Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing it was 1245. Still, I’d diagnosed and cured the fault, so off my list and out of my head. A test ride the following morning confirmed all was well. Quit while ahead. Weeks and many miles hence, the Zefal Shield G50 continue to impress with their rattle-free construction and impressive protection- on and sans asphalt.

Definitely the best clip-on guards I’ve ever used and by some margin. I’m still mightily impressed by Mudhugger’s Gravel Hugger, but these are a more permanent design- none the worse for it, but slightly different. The Gravel Hugger are also incompatible with rim brakes. Fine for contemporary gravel, or bike packing framesets and the coverage is also impressive.

However, incompatible with bikes running cantilevers, or linear pulls. Talking of which, I’ve upgraded Muffin’s brake cable with a Jagwire CGX 5mm outer and stainless inner. Not on par, with their top flight Jagwire Road Elite Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing, but a tangible improvement. The Fibrax and bog-standard stainless inner fitted during the initial build has served well enough in the “use what you got” sense. Now it was due replacement, hence the opportunity to upgrade. A few months down the line, I wasn’t surprised to discover the MPart Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar Tape M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar | cycling-not-racing had weathered. In fairness, it was re-useable and the adhesive backing still up to the job, but the finishing strips were really stubborn to remove. Should get another few months regular use before retirement. Switching to the Spa Aire Titanium has also brought a new level of bliss. I’d broken it in years ago but forgotten how comfortable it is, especially on a bike with similar positioning and geometry as Muffin.

Mercifully, save for testing, worn consumables and the odd tweak, I more or less have the fleet optimised. Major revamps and overhauls are off the table.  Invariably, when I’ve fallen down one of these rabbit holes, some other expenditure has presented, whether it be cars, dental treatment, or similar priority.

I should point out that while brutally diminished by successive administrations, we do still have the burning embers of universal healthcare, but there is still a fiscal contribution to be made. Universal healthcare makes sound economic sense. The healthier your nation, the more productive. There is an argument in favour of contribution and I can see this, but only so long as it's proportionate and based upon the ability to pay.

There is a large swathe of the UK’s population who enjoyed increasing prosperity across the board-even those in lower-skilled, dare we say “dead end” work. High quality affordable housing, good schools and other public services. Housing was about community, not assets, educational attainment and life chances were more closely associated with the communities, parents and peers surrounding you.

Nonetheless, upward social mobility was very much a lived experience. Something that progressively waned through the 1980s onward, as industries and communities died. Those that could, left and pursued new lives, those that didn’t were left behind, largely ignored. Easy prey for the populists who offer slogans, emotional dynamite but no solutions to inherently complex and ingrained problems. 

Derriere Delight & Rapid Chain Consumption

 

Having switched saddles and riding conditions milder and wetter, I switched to Muffin and some fixed gear serenity before things flip flopped again. Reunited with the titanium railed Spa Aire, I was delighted with the comfort but also noted some slight slip with these Castelli Competizone Bib Tights Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing- the case with the Ergon it replaces.

With another snowy blast on the horizon, I switched Ursla from the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing to Schwalbe’s Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing. Wheels in situ, I then decided a chain check was opportune- .75 when I introduced my more basic, nickel-plated tool. Bin fodder either way.

I had two in stock, so no issues on that front. Simply brake, prune the new and click into place with the magic link. Now was also the opportunity to expel some gunge clinging to the jockey wheels and lighter grime adorning the rings. Something also prompted me to check Denise’s KMC- said nickel-plated gauge also slid straight to .75.

Again, an easy fix, and chance to strip some residual gunk from the jockey wheels, cage and rings.  Both chains had been fed the Muc Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing . This also serves to illustrate how persistent exposure to waterlogged roads, mucky lanes, trails and of course snow and salt rapidly consume drivetrains-even with disciplined cleaning and light lubrication. Denise’s chain was only replaced in November. I subscribe to the philosophy of buying less exotic chains, since they still return a reasonable mileage and are relatively kind on the wallet when replacement’s due. Same goes for cassettes.

Rings should be fine, so long as you’re not lax when it comes to replacing chains. However, there’s an argument for investing in stainless steel, rather than 6061 aluminium alloy rings. At least on a tourer, or other bikes that do big mileages year-round. Mercifully, the Deore FC M5100 fitted to Ursula and Denise are steel, which adds a few grams but theoretically repays with improved durability.

Again, Deore is often regarded as entry-level, but the specification and performance are still very impressive. Back in the 1990s, I had high regard for Shimano’s STX & RC components, good enough for racing, but affordable and economic to replace, should you bend something beyond repair in a crash.  They key with all these things is to keep repairs, replacements and upgrades practical. Unless a gift, or passed to you at an incredibly favourable rate, bolting high end CNC machined rings on lower to mid-range cranks makes no sense.      

All this also serves as solid argument for running a fixed, or single speed steed as a primary winter bike. One ideally with full length mudguards (fenders). That said, fixed and single speed drivetrains are low maintenance, decent sprockets and chains are key, since they’re under a fair bit of strain and that’s before you throw the witches brew of wet, salt, grit and similar nasties into the mix.

Without doubt, the best sprocket I’ve ever run was EAI Superstar- a beautifully machined, highly polished stainless-steel affair commanding £45. EAI also offer a less exotic steel stablemate for £25. One that arguably strikes the best balance of value and performance on a working, or training bike.

I’m also suitably impressed by the Andel Fixed Sprocket (1/8 17tooth) fitted to Muffin. I’m not a fan of electroplating per se. I appreciate it looks pretty but I don’t like the process and acids involved. Nonetheless, Muffin’s seems to be holding up very well against the elements and offers a winter, knee friendly ratio of 67.5.

Great for a smooth, struggle-free cadence, but without going into overdrive on the descents.  As for chains, I’ve had surprisingly good results from budget KMC, such as the Z510, their higher end stainless counterparts, not to mention, the Gusset S Link and thus far, this Izumi. Once upon a time, while riding conversions I ran 3/32 Sedis, but it’s been 1 1/8^th track fare all the way since I took advantage of fixed’s resurgence in 2005.    

 

 

Chilly Charms & Sudden Thaws

 

Conditions became wintrier as January unfolded and I was relieved I'd left the Schwalbe Marathon Winter mounted to Denise's wheels meaning I could just hop on, relax and enjoy the ride, despite the icy stretches. I decided to switch the Selle Royal Respiro for the WTB Rocket WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing . The Respiro served me well for the best part of 13 years and I wondered whether the foam matrix was beginning to lose its memory around the rear.  It also heralded the return of these “lobster” gloves, since wind chill had brought the air temperatures considerably lower than minus 6.

Warmth is a definite plus but there’s trade off on the dexterity front, which can dictate their removal when bag rummaging, multi tool wielding and other tasks requiring fine motor skills. These link two fingers together, so allows me sufficient freedom to operate a compact camera, adjust a zipper etc. Better than the mitten type, but still comparatively limited.  For this reason, I also pack a set of liners, or middleweight gravel types, should I need to tackle a flat, or similar.

Considerations aside, they are blissful for otherwise bitterly cold midwinter outings. Blessed with a generous thatch, I tend to default to a water repelling, breathable cap such as this Showers Pass Elite SHOWERS PASS ELITE CYCLING CAP | cycling-not-racing. However, when il fait froid, I reach for another old favourite, the “Belgian” style cycling cap, which has served me well for around twelve winters.

These are characterised by better coverage and protection to the ears and a slightly thicker, sometimes fleecy inner fabric. I reach for mine once the air temperature hovers around zero, or the wind chill drags it into minus figures. Higher and I find the breed a little too toasty for my tastes.  The Sidi Algor Sidi Algor MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing have proven themselves extremely temperate when the mercury’s dipped to minus 6. Not that I’ve had any issues with Shimano’s mighty MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing in similar contexts, but the Algor are slightly toastier.

The Zefal Shield G50 guards continue to impress with their capacity for keeping crappy stuff off myself and Denise.  Aside from a weekly, judicious check of the Velcro, I've not needed to give them a second thought. I've also been pleased by Ursula's new front mudguard.

Though less elegant than the Mudhugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing and similar designs, its simple and offers good coverage to rider and machine without risk of clogging. How it will fare longer term, when the glop, UV light, heat and cold have done their worst, remains to be seen.

Mudguards, though a valuable defence are no substitute for regular cleaning. When the gritters have been out, give bikes regular washes, starting with a cold rinse to flush away the corrosive contaminant (hot will only accelerate the caustic process) before going for the warm sudsy bucket and brushes.  

There’s a lot of discussion around bike washes- in the Marmite sense. Some really like them, other folks loathe them, citing them as money for old rope. I sit somewhere in the middle. Salty season aside, I like those which can applied direct to the bike i.e. without having to get the bike wet first- scrub and rinse.

Otherwise, I default to good quality car wash n’ wax type formulas, which will gobble the grime, while leaving a light wax barrier behind. Obviously, this can’t compare with a decent quality hard paste, or fluid formula, but does offer some defence. Great for when time and daylight are at a premium.  

In a matter of days, ice and snow gave way to flooding, so it made sense to switch to Ursula for a bit, and I was also curious to see how well the new front mudguard performed when it came to waterlogged lanes. Suitably impressed, it made a huge difference to my comfort, although they’re arguably perfect for 1.9 section rubber. Glad I’d donned the Shimano MW702.

Managed to get the Blackburn Atom4 to play nicely with minimal effort. A shot of PTFE free spray on the sensors contacts and decent quality CR2025 cells seem to address the intermittent connectivity issues. The smaller frameset places the head unit and sensor in closer proximity, which probably helps.   

More Bars & Bargains

 

No, not the sort licenced to sell intoxicating liquors. The quiet of Christmas is very welcome and without fail, results in bike-related revisions- whether it's midwinter maintenance- wholesale cable replacement, rings, chains etc, or more specific upgrades.

The festive season can also give rise to expensive flights of fancy- framesets, fork(s), groupsets- unplanned stuff that seems like a great idea in the moment but can contribute to the January fiscal hangover.  

 I turned my attentions to bars. While generally very attached to the WTB Dirt Drops, I find the drop and reach slightly off- too long and deep. It’s worth noting that I am broad across the shoulders but proportionally short in the torso, so getting the front end blissful can require some trial and error. Bike fits are an excellent investment and certainly reduce the guesswork.

Given both the Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and WTB “in stock” there wasn’t any outlay, just experimentation. I wanted to continue this tradition, without being pointlessly tight. Genetic D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing was the obvious contender with its 75mm reach and offered an extra 20mm rise.  

However, I fancied something with a shallower drop. Some NOS Ridgeback Gravel Drops going for proverbial pennies came under my radar. While the Ridgeback don’t feature any rise, they have an 8-degree flare, mm reach, drop. I’d also had half an eye on Genetic’s Digest, which feature a very favourable 76mm reach and 110mm drop.  

One thing led to another, and I found myself acquiring a set of each. It didn’t take me long before I switched Denise’s WTB Dirt drops for the Genetic Digest. Thankfully, though it took a while to port everything over, prune a brake cable outer and similar quick tweaks, no replacements required- this also applied to the Ergon Orthocell Bar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing.

Out on the road, the Digest’s flare is very discernible and gives tremendous leverage, which, aside from trail duties is particularly helpful if you’re towing a trailer, or tagalong. That said, coming from a traditional road bar, steering will feel barge-like to begin with.

Another similarity with On-One’s Midge, they open the chest cavity, which really helps when powering up the climbs- great for cyclo cross, or indeed climbing on the fixed. The only other significant consideration is that greater width can make navigating tight spaces trickier- negotiating congested traffic, or indeed doorways.  

I’ve decided I’ll keep the Ridgeback as spares, should Muffins’ D-riser 4 show any signs of fatigue. As with Ursula, I’ve reach and height absolutely bang on for my needs. Though I’m a fettler, the old saying “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” resonates strongly.      

Another thing to consider when choosing drops, at least for mixed terrain, or indeed, dedicated trail duties (as distinct from cyclo cross, where there’s a lot of dis and re-mounting when things get more technical) is the bar’s uniformity, meaning that lights and other accessories are easily mounted-at the desired angles. 

I’d contemplated retiring the Giant Continuum 9 function computer, but found replacing the batteries, giving the contacts a quick squirt of maintenance spray restored the original performance and appears to have addressed some connectivity issues, especially when riding through areas of high electrical interference. A New Old Stock Blackburn Atom 4 (the wireless version) may well be finding its way to Ursula, assuming I can successfully troubleshoot some minor niggles.

 New contact points and indeed, adjustments always feel different to begin with, hence I leave things set that way for a couple of hundred miles and tweak accordingly

Obviously, a longer threadless steerer and spacer play will have the same effect and overcomes some of the limitations of quill stems and in this instance, adaptors. However, I should also point out, higher end models such as this Profile design are infinitely superior to the generic types found on auction sites. Yes, I’ve used those and they’re adequate, but that’s it.   

Several months down the line. I’m also very impressed by the Wolf Tooth Morse Bottle Cages Wolf Tooth Morse Steel Bottle Cage | cycling-not-racing. Ours were the stainless versions combining a timeless aesthetic with high degrees of adjustability and bottle tenure is excellent. 

 

Curly Bars & Fat Tyres

 

Hybrid certainly applies in the context of Ursula and drop bar mountain bikes have been around since the mid-1980s. There is a solid argument, (even if you don’t necessarily agree with it) that gravel bikes are in fact hybrids of road and mountain bikes. I lean toward them being the love child of cyclo cross and rigid 90s cross country mountain bike. The trend for converting 90s cross country mountain bikes to drop bar gravel machines is perhaps predictable. Something I can certainly get my head around.

Afterall, Denise is a late 80’s mountain bike frameset modified to run 700c wheels. That said, like most trends, I’m of the opinion there should be nuance and not a cult or heard like wholesale movement. Early 90s cross country mountain bikes were very capable and engaging machines that handled beautifully.

My 1990 Kona Lava Dome was a case in point. There was a genre called hybrid, which featured flat bars and slowly died a death as the 90s wore on. The higher end models boasted Reynolds 531 and similar grade tubesets- closer to a flat bar tourer with bigger tyres. However, the majority tended to be marketed as commuter steeds with an upright stance, wider saddles lower grade tubing and components.

Mudguard and rack mounts and with clearance for 35-38mm meant they made serviceable town hacks and utility bikes.  I was quite drawn to the Orbit Frontier, which was a drop bar 531 tubed rough stuff tourer with clearance for 700x38c tyres inc full length mudguards.

Marketed as the best of both worlds, the press felt it was too compromised, master of none, essentially. Top-mounted thumb rather than bar end shifters were an example of this and a really strange choice for a drop bar small scale production build. The most commonly remembered frontier was their 531 tubed mountain bike dressed in Shimano XT. Quality control was problematic during this period but turned around under Lee Cooper’s supervision.  

Muddy Fox Trailblazer was another curious beast- drop bar mountain bike with bar cons and 26x1.75 tyres. Similar theme to Specialized’s Rock Combo, but a little earlier- I spotted it in “Bicycle” magazine back in March 1987.  Both machines were well ahead of their time and in my view, the epitome of ATB (All Terrain Bikes). Neither I would pay classic prices for, mind. Sentimental I may be, stupid I am not.

Back to 2026 and I’ve reached my conclusions about the Sidi Algor and decided to try a different front mudguard on Ursula. I’d been buying in some consumables and spotted a reasonably sturdy reinforced plastic model, which would also mean free postage, so took a punt. I’ wanted something with more coverage than the existing shorty fender- I’d reversed it to see if there was any improvement in mud protection. No, is the answer, but a worthwhile experiment.

Rain, mud and slurry had given way to icy winds and tumbling temperatures over Christmas-perfect for testing winter gloves and similar attire. The gritters had been out, prompting the switch to Denise and the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres, providing dependable grip and feedback as I hustled through the lanes.  Curiosity and the urge to experiment got the better of me, so I raised the bars slightly and whipped some other lights atop the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount. 

Not because the Gaciron Cetus could ever be described as lacking, but I hadn't charged it in a while and didn't want to be plunged into darkness several miles from home.  I had the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing to hand and was relieved to discover the mount took its 200plus grams in its stride, same story when I substituted for the Magicshine Ray2600, which was a bigger surprise.  Arguably the best fit was this See Sense Beam, which weighs a feathery 59g. 

While dynamos are bright and highly dependable, I like a powerful backup, just in case- comes in handy should I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical by the roadside. Similarly, while the Exposure Revo is a beautifully made and relatively powerful lamp, 800lumens is a little underpowered for backroad blasting, adding another 500 or so makes a very tangible difference, while sipping reserves-at least on a more powerful torch-type rechargeable system.

Similarly, I usually carry a spare rear light-failures are infrequent but do happen and are at best inconvenient.  One old favourite is Nite Rider's Cherry Bomb- the 100-lumen version. Aside from being very bright, it was fuelled by AAA cells and enjoyed a seriously generous run times and would withstand being frozen- I left one submerged on a very chill winter day and it passed the ice bucket challenge with flying colours. 

Topeak Redlite Aero Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing and its Mega stablemate are two further good examples of lights with AAA options. The former is only two modes- steady and flashing. Arguably all we strictly need, but sometimes a choice of flashing modes is nice, especially if navigating city centres with competing illuminations, or when fitted to a trailer, or tagalong.

 

Another Year Almost Done....

 

On the cusp of 2026, I’ve been reflecting on 2025.  Many miles in the saddle, there have been lots of subtle tweaks and changes across the board. Ursula’s frame modifications have proved their worth. I’ve switched the rear quick release for the electroplated trailer model. I’ve experienced some occasional disc rub-easily addressed using some simple adjustments.  

Thru axles are the best pairings on the stiffness fronts, which may be a consideration for those taking the modernisation route. Talking of which, many frame builders will shy away from retrofitting disc mounts to older, thinner tubed framesets. By all means ask them and to explain their reservations but (this goes for any other profession, or trade) never try cajoling someone into doing something they are not comfortable doing. There’s usually a very sound reasoning behind that reticence.  

Before concerning yourself with calliper alignment and more involved diagnostics, start with some simple stuff. With the bike set down, undo the quick release and check the wheel is properly set in the dropouts and centred. Next, with the quick release open, pull the brake lever fully home, while simultaneously closing the quick release.

Pump the lever ten times and roll the bike or spin the wheel to test for any binding.  I was happy with the Spyre SLC’s alignment, so felt no need to meddle and on this occasion, all sorted. This had coincided with yet another sudsy bucket clean, since Ursula needed it, after a week belting along greasy, muddy lanes. I also wanted to  strip what remained of the Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing and introduce some Muc Off C3 Ceramic All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing- just fancied a change to be honest.

Several months and many miles down the line, the Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals  Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing  which are understated and just get on with the job- no flex, creaking and while mud shedding doesn’t rival Time’s mighty ATAC, they’ll shift boggy clay soil with reassuring ease.

Switching to the Ergon All Road Core Comp SaddleErgon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing has proved music to my derriere, and I’m pleased to report the right hand Microshift bar end shifter is behaving properly, so all told, I’ve refined the contact points to personal perfection. Long term use has me concluding CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing are a better fit for me and my riding style than the Continental Cross King Protection Black Chili Tyres Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing

Phantom squeaks strike now and again- can be something and nothing. Muffin’s creak wasn’t the D-riser 4 bars, rather the Cane Creek dummy/stoker lever needing a quick turn of the 5mm Allen key. I’ve had these for many years and found their ergonomics incredibly comfortable for cruising and climbing.  Obviously tandems are their primary audience, but they make a lot of sense on a fixed gear build, or indeed, a trike, or something similarly specialist employing a 2-in1, linked brake. I’m considering revisiting the 146mm wide Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing  or The titanium railed Spa Cycles Aire for a while.  I’ve decided to whip the Aire atop Muffin’s USE post, since I needed to strip and regrease some of the hardware.

In fairness, there was a reasonably stoical, thin layer of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing . However, prevention is always better than cure and since I was switching saddles, then was the time. I’ve reached for the Zefal Pro II Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing   

The Soulor is 7mm broader than the Ergon SR All Road Saddle Ergon SR All Road Men’s Saddle | cycling-not-racing and a bit heavier too. I’m curious to see how good a fit it is with Muffin.

Dimensions wise, its identical to the iconic 80’s Selle Italia Turbo, which I got along with just fine for several years. I had two versions, the suede and a leather covered gel version c. 1993-96. Staying with the late 80s, I had a Selle San Marco Concor Super Corsa homage- wore the suede smooth and ultimately sold it to a fellow student for £8 in 1994.  

Winter is hard on stuff as I’m always saying and cables are no exception. I wasn’t surprised to discover a frayed inner still commanding Ursula’s front Suntour mech-one of those routine jobs that saves a lot of hassle later down the line. Another illustration of why its important to wash and inspect bikes regularly during the darker months.   

The muddy, slippery season has also presented opportunity to put the Zefal G50 Gravel Mudguards to the test and as I’d expected, they offer a decent amount of coverage-at least to the rider, without fouling when things get gooey.

 Longer term, I’m contemplating a hybrid setup for Denise- leaving the rear G50 I situ and running a Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger up front. We’ll see, this is more of an aesthetic, rather than performance thing. The great thing about the G50 is their compatibility with cantilever brakes, lending them to older ‘cross, hybrid and gravel builds. I like disc brakes and for a wealth of applications, they’re great, but cantilevers and other rim brakes still have genuine advantages and perform very well. Particularly with higher end cables and pads.

 

Winter Drivers

 

Mild and wet has been the blanket flavour of things with some very isolated icy spells, basically aligning with climate change predictions made by experts and for many years. I could discuss the rise of hostility toward qualified opinion, experience and skill but side notes aside, this is about cycling. I’ve been wondering whether I experience a seasonal fatigue by time December comes around.

Not on creative fronts and I’m still out getting the miles in with the same vigour, but the lack of daylight tends to dent my desire to spring out of bed first thing. It’s also an incredibly expensive time of year, not simply Christmas, rather things seem to fail unexpectedly during the darker months and can be expenditure many haven’t budgeted for, leaving us blind sighted and financially embarrassed.

 Seasonal expiry included the Grant combi boiler- a leak was quickly obvious when I noted low pressure and attempted to open the pressure loop valves to re-pressurise the system. Seems something of an Achillies heel with the Grant Vortex Outdoor Combi systems.

Still, it was nice to have heating and hot water reinstated following a couple of chill nights. The first house I lived in, having moved to London when I was 18 had no heating (and was generally in a very dilapidated state) and I recall the winter of 1992 being bitterly cold, although it did almost result in me feeling impervious to that kind of cold. On many occasions, it was colder inside than out, which was a fine motivator for getting out of one's pit and out on training rides.

I've switched back to the Shimano MW702 booties, just to reference comparisons between them and the Algor. The MW702 are a slimmer, the uppers more malleable and the soles slightly stiffer,, soi quicker to don and give slightly better feedback and connection with the bike, making higher cadences easier to maintain. 

 

There have been goodies to boost the mood. Lomo have sent me their winter mountain bike gloves- at a penny shy of £15 a lovely wallet friendly staple, dare I say, stocking filler. These are wind and water resistant, boast textured leather palms for grip, gusseting between thumb and forefingers, minimising wear when riding on the hoods.

Yes, they’re also intended for gravel and there’s no reason why they won’t transition to winter training and commuting. Middleweight design, they seem relatively dexterous and elasticated cuffs continue this narrative, and ultra practical black is offset by some reflective detailing.  In common with several other winter models, they’re intended for 5 degrees or so. Liner gloves are viable should temperatures dip lower, but you’d be better served with a deep winter model, if you’re regularly out in sub-zero temperatures. However, for the most part, this kind of glove caters nicely for late autumn, through to march. Let’s see what the real-world riding reveals. On and off road.

SKS have also sent me this rack top bag- I’m fond of this genre, they’re not suited for everything- I’d never put sensitive electricals, such as cameras in them, even with a foam bed, given the ruinous, low-level vibration that travels up through the rack. That aside, I’ve found them perfect for day riding with scope for tubes, tools, packable jackets, such as this Madison Madison Road Race Jacket | cycling-not-racing, gloves, arm warmers, snacks etc.

These Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing and Carradice have been firm favourites. The latter’s cotton duck requires a little more care and periodic reproofing to lock the elements out. However, this one’s done thirteen years and save for some lived-in patina and light wear, going very strong.   

 There have of course, been some midwinter temptations, one that I mustn’t indulge in for a wealth of reasons, space being a major one. Specifically, Raleigh’s Dynatech Titanium framesets, the one with the UGLIi fork.

These are the pure titanium models, rather than the lower end, bonded versions described by the press as chemical titanium and notoriously tricky to repair and refinish, since the glue will melt when exposed to the kind of heat employed in curing ovens- hence they need to be finished in 2K, or similar paints that will air cure.

The original Turbo saddle is another draw for me, but there’s no way I’d consider paying retro prices for one. I had a couple, including a gel version- fluro that I bought c. 1993 for the princely sum of £10. Suited my wallet, winter bike’s fluro livery and my derriere beautifully.

However, this goes back to my point about the midwinter and the need for seasonal comfort/distraction. I’ve switched Ursula’s WTB Rocket WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing saddle to the  Ergon All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing , which has proven something of an inspired choice, offering a bit more support than the generally very likeable WTB.

Atari relaunched its classic, some would say iconic games console, complete with cartridges a couple of years back. I was tempted at the time, put money by for one, but ultimately decided against it, on the basis of it being a five-minute wonder that would ultimately sit gathering dust in a corner. Distractions are nice, but we must tackle things at their root, or we’ll never advance.