Pruning, Tuning & Distraction

 

I resisted the cable pruning urge for all of 24 hours. Weary of bum and brain, I shuffled from my office chair and headed to the garage. Cursory inspection and some double-checking later, I’d marked the cut point and removed the front mech's inner wire. Measure twice, cut once; I performed a final check, snipped the outer cable and refitted. Save for pulling the inner wire through trimming, and restricting the front mech’s throw- done in five minutes.

Oh well, might as well…I was compelled to adjust Ursula’s rear brake. The cable had stretched slightly, which also saw me realigning the calliper.  This phase was a little more perfectionist- some might say obsessive. Having pulled the inner wire through a little further and snugged tight, I slackened the calliper mount, then used a rubber O-ring to bring the brake lever fully home. Theoretically, aligning the calliper, while I tightened it evenly. A technique that ultimately proved successful. No tickling, or rub, just smooth, progressive stopping. Yay! 

I’m a big fan of Topeak’s Uni Super Tourist 2.0 DX Rear Rack. Being a two-tier design, there’s no issues combining panniers and rack bags, whether their MTX Trunk Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing, or something more universal, such as my long serving Carradice. You can still pair these on a single tier design but whipping them on and off is more convoluted.

The rack is highly adjustable-great for various frame sizes and designs, regardless of whether they run discs, or not. 25 kilo maximum payload caters for most contexts, and the factory powder-coated finish is generally hardy.

My one minor niggle (aside from electroplated fasteners) is the rack’s design can hinder access to disc brake calliper mounts. A moot point tackled with a workshop, ball-end type but potentially tricky with some multi-tools. Singular L-type 5mm keys, or slender tools, such as this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing seem the best fits.   

250 mixed terrain miles on and the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax is also performing very well- clean and yet seemingly resilient. I’ve concluded that letting it cure for 7-8 hours reaps best reward-I sensed I was chancing it at three hours but was keen to take Ursula for a shakedown ride and it’s the sort of thing we’ve all done now and then.  Much the same story with Muffin’s KMC chain.

One thing led to another while I was contemplating the world and my place within it. Curious to see how compatible (or otherwise) Slick Juice was with titanium; I switched the super plush Sumo for this Torus. This also presented opportunity to top up Muffin’s frame preserve and having torqued everything correctly, I gave the post a polish and applied some protectant. Given the grease’s composition, I’m not expecting any issues with galvanic corrosion, but there’s only one way to find out.  

As the miles rack up, I’m increasingly impressed by the All-Mountain Sports Miani Glide Chain Was. Specifically its lubrication and temperature stability. It seems to penetrate and coat the chain’s pins and rollers, resulting in silent, crisp shifting, doesn’t attract grime and runs cleaner. In fairness, several waxes I’ve tested over the last year or two haven’t become a gooey mess when the mercury’s creeping beyond 23 degrees but some are definitely better than others. It's also proving quite effective on cables, cleat mechanisms and other metal-on-metal interfaces that we might want to lube “while we think of it”.

Leatt have graciously sent me some shoes and shades to play with. Now, I've defaulted to twin bolt gravel shoes for the past five years or so, on and off road since they strike an excellent balance of power transfer and walkability. Grippy soles offering excellent traction off the bike-even if it's just dis/mounting on an icy morning. Prior to this,  cross country mountain bike and sportier touring shoes were my go-tos. I'm still a big fan of these Quoc Pham, which are still going strong after thirteen years. Leather uppers are easy to care for and resist the elements very well-wipe clean with a damp cloth and treat with hide food, or shoe polish to keep them supple.

Back to the Leatt. These are the Trail 6.0, a trail shoe, which features a longer cleat channel, offering greater adjustment. Forward, for a more aggressive, dare we say, racy stance, further back for trail, all mountain and endurance genres. A little different. Synthetic uppers seem rugged, although means mesh panelling. Once upon a time, this meant very soggy feet when the heavens opened. However, the slightly wider fit means they are readily paired with thinner waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off, which are firm favourites of mine. 

Leatt also sent me their  Ride Viz Sierra Sunglasses. These employ "Biopolymer" frames with stainless steel temples. Polycarbonate lenses employing polarising technology, promising to eliminate glare and therefore, eye strain are something we've come to expect. Their casual, slightly classic design looks less aggressively technical, so theoretically a good fit off the bike. The Rebound employ carbon fibre frames and arms, keeping the weight low and rubberised grippers offering tactile tenure. 

Technical kit doesn't have to look overtly technical. Some brands still offer more relaxed "touring" shirts and shorts, although this is a smaller market, which seemed to almost reach a point of extinction, but made a quiet comeback thanks to gravel's rise in popularity. Prior to that, messenger subculture had a fleeting influence between 2005 and 2009. I'm still fond of "messenger knickers" which were nicely cut, looked stylish off the bike-perfect when meeting friends for lunch and similar social contexts. 

Looser fit mountain bike clothing is similarly practical. Endura Humvee remain popular (justly so, in my view) and cross, trail, touring and gravel genres very capably. Pockets and stash points means they're also ultra practical, won't look out of place on a mountain bike, tourer, gravel, or road bike.  Great for everyday riding where Lycra is inappropriate or frowned upon.   Hmm...Might that be why the Shetlands are shunning me ... I'll close here with my long term review of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc  Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

Seizing The Day

 

I’ve been tempted to replace Muffin’s front Mud Hugger Gravel Guard for something a little wider, having experienced some clearance issues with the 42mm Maxxis Roamer. For the time being, I’ve switched back to the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech and am enjoying a freshly repacked headset and the serenely slick cleanliness of the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Wax Chain Lube

The economies of scale don't always work in our favour, but they make a lot of sense when its stuff we're frequently using. Bike washes divide opinion and generally speaking, I default to good quality wash n' wax formulas- 5 litres or thereabouts, since I also wash cars and other vehicles and £17 will last me at least a year, even though filthy winters.  However, dedicated bike washes can cut through the grime more effectively-especially impacted stuff.

A typical litre, readymade potion will cost £10, whereas a 5-litre concentrate will cost around £25 make at least ten litres. Price is not the only factor to consider. Some formulas, especially at the cheaper end of the market are not necessarily kind to disc brakes and other sensitive components. Other potential issues involve streaking and similar blemishes in paintwork and corrosion/oxidisation on aluminium alloys.

The shorter the standing times, the more aggressive the formula likely is and this can cause deterioration longer term. Especially when rinsed with warm water. During winter, where roads are typically gritted, rinse bikes with cold water FIRST, going straight for the warm sudsy bucket will simply accelerate the corrosive process.  

I've used and tested a wealth of different formulas over the years, and most have been competent. Some have left particularly positive impressions. 

Motoverde (previously Green Clean MX PRO GREEN MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW) Bike Wash is one that can be left for 15 minutes or so, which really allows it to east into stubborn grime. A lot of people like a highly visual formulas (this also applies to other cleaning products-shampoos and conditioners) on the belief they are more effective.

In practice, a formula that clings to the host will breakdown grease, oils, mud and similar contaminant more effectively, resulting in deeper clean and using less product into the bargain. Reading the manufacturer's directions should be a given (but a lot of people don't).  Some, including the Motoverde are designed to work when the host surface is wet, which may be perceived as another stage and a faff.

However, it can ultimately save time and achieve better results.  It's also important to remember that bike washes are not degreasers, although in concentrate form, they can be very effective at stripping impacted oily gunk from cassettes, rings and similar metal surfaces. Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate | cycling-not-racing being two that spring to mind.

One thing invariably prompts something else and, in this instance, replacing Ursula's cassette led to me discovering a sticky, well borderline seized TRP Spyre SLC calliper. I've not had any issues with Muffin’s, although Muffin is tarmac based, whereas Ursula does a fair bit of mileage off road, hence the calliper gets basted with more crap. 

I've not had too many issues per se, although I've heard the design is vulnerable to this and internal corrosion- piston and bearings. It is possible to strip the calliper, although TRP discourages this, so at your own risk.

Given the callipers are relatively cheap, not the end of the world. However, if I was going to buy a replacement, I'd nothing to lose by blasting the calliper through with a high strength solvent to purge anything gunky, followed by a GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT "chaser". I’d been out for a ride, returned and took a different route.

Having removed the calliper, I gave it a liberal blast of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing allowed that to marinate for a few minutes, pumping the mechanism to ensure full penetration. Engaging the calliper by hand accelerated this, a sludgy brown film seeping out as the mechanism freed. Rinsed with clean water, I dried thoroughly and applied Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing, taking particular care to avoid contaminating the pads.

This prompted a wholesale tear down. I needed to replace the brake cable, so took this as my cue to switch the bars and stem, repack the FSA aheadset with fresh Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Waterproof Grease The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing  An orgy of fettling and script changes followed but sometimes the most time-effective decision is to strip and start again.  

I’ll close here with my review of the Gaciron XIAOMAN 1000 Multifunctional All-in-One Professional Outdoor Front light The Gaciron XIAOMAN-1000 | cycling-not-racing

  

The Summer of Wax

 

I’ve been defaulting to wax lubes through spring and testing aside; this is likely to continue through into early autumn. Murphey's law has seen conditions take another dramatic change. It was now wetter than the proverbial Haddock's underpants- great for my crops but not conditions where waxes traditionally excel. I'm sticking with them for now, since I have several blends and they generally speaking, attract minimal dirt, thus extending the useful life of chains, cassettes, derailleurs and rings.

 After 130 miles, upon returning from the morning’s meander, Denise’s KMC chain was beginning to look thirsty. I went to retrieve the KMC GO but then wondered if two loosely similar waxes would prove chemically compatible. This would also allow me to use up the remaining Weldtite Wax Weldtite Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing.

 Just before drizzling into every link, I noticed a large sludgy kernel clinging to the Tiagra mech's jockey wheel, so scooped that away using this BBB chain gauge first- another strangely satisfying job.  

Gunk purged, I shook the Weldtite Wax bottle again, popped the spout and dropped into every link, spun the cranks to ensure even penetration and left curing. Twenty-five wet miles, I wasn’t surprised to discover the chain had turned a scuzzy, dark grey.

I hoped the wax had just arrested contaminant and wasn’t becoming a grinding paste. Though waxes are renown for cleanliness, if traces of an oil-based lubricant are left on the chain, the two formulas will trap grit, leading to accelerated drivetrain wear. Mercifully, the KMC and Weldtite seem mutually compatible, grime scabbing away during the next twenty-mile outing, leaving a protective film behind.  

I'd also reached that tipping point where an idea was becoming the ONLY idea-namely replacing the 2x10 Deore for a 3x10- I was looking to upgrade too, to an XT. Mercifully, I was able to talk myself out of this burgeoning obsession by reminding myself that doing so would require a longer rear mech-additional and moreover, unnecessary expense. The most cost-effective upgrade if I was going for a new mech would be a 38, or 40 tooth big ring and a 12-34 cassette. Not a triple. 

The latest generation of gravel “mullet” drivetrains on gravel builds is, for me, very reminiscent of those found on mid-late 80’s mountain bikes. Not the freewheels, rather the derailleur cage length. Cages were hanging perilously low to the ground. In fact, in some circles, it seemed the lower you’re cage, er, hung, the better. This also prompted a swing to using short cage road mechs. However, this proved rather short-lived, once many became the casualties of rocks and off road’s general rough n’ tumble.

Continuing this waxy theme, Extra UK has kindly sent me this All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax. Developed and manufactured in Barcelona, it claims to be an all-season’s lube. One promising smooth, clean, durable performance in dry to damp conditions. I’m looking forward to putting it to the test. In common with most waxes, it demands a surgically clean drivetrain first time round and emerges from the spout as a faint blue. A visual clue as to how much you’ve applied. Curing times are in terms of hours, so I’d leave overnight, where possible.

Extra also sent me some nice goodies from Topeak. Racks have fallen a little out of vogue in general terms, thanks in part to the popularity of gravel and bikepacking luggage. I’m fond of both, neither are better than the other, just more appropriate in certain contexts. Continuing this theme, I’ve always been fond of Topeak’s Quick Track System-the refinement and security specifically. I first encountered it back in 2009, but at the time commented the only drawback was the system specific design.

However, Topeak has since extended the appeal by offering a Quick Track plate as a retrofittable option. I was keen to see how that would perform with the M Part Summit Rear Rack M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing and Topeak’s MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing .

Finally, we’ve Topeak’s Drybag Pannier. This one’s the smaller, 16 litre version, but there’s a 24-litre sibling, should you prefer.  Sonically welded TPU construction and roll top closure bode well for keeping stuff bone dry and a 10-kilo payload is similarly reassuring. Mounting hardware is another thing that can make, or indeed, break otherwise decent luggage.

Rixen Kaul has long been the benchmark when it comes to reliable, user-friendly mounting hardware. Topeak’s in-house handle lock system is a spring-loaded system that works to a similar principle -pull the handle upward to release, press down onto the rack and it will click into place. The lower foot is also tool free and really easy to adjust, say when switching between bikes.  A single compartment is cavernous but potentially blessing and curse- depending on what and how you are packing.   

 

 

 

 

Calculated Gambles & Headset Care

 

I’d been casually looking out for a second skewer/hitch for my long serving Revolution Cargo Trailer. It’s been out of production for a good while, so spares were a little elusive-at least at reasonable, cost-effective prices. I tried TW Bents, the Taiwanese manufacturer, but nothing.

Someone offered me a replacement for £60, which I gently declined. Indulging in some curiosity surfing unearthed this M-Wave unit. The trailer’s swing arm looked a dead ringer, so for £15 including postage, I figured it was worth a punt. I wanted the convenience of just porting the trailer between Ursula and Denise without faffing about with skewer switches.   

A bit of grease on the skewer and everything slotted in nicely and the hitch is a reliable fit with the trailer-a calculated gamble that paid off. No excuse for not putting the Lomo Dry Sack through its paces, although save for the odd isolated thunderstorm, it’s been decidedly arid in these parts. A great opportunity to drag some favourite jerseys from the summer wardrobe too. This rather fetching Castelli Espresso Castelli Espresso Jersey | cycling-not-racing being a prime example. Lightweight, fast wicking and snug with generous pockets too. Steve’s been suitably impressed by its successor, too Castelli Espresso2 Jersey | cycling-not-racing.

Ursula’s chain was also skipping under load, so I switched to a new cassette since the chain was within .25. I also took the opportunity to strip, inspect, and deliver some more Juice Lubes Bearing Juice to Muffin’s FSA headset bearings, since it had been 12 months. It hadn’t been completely consumed and was still doing its thing. However, a generous dollop from my fingers to the races and bearings turned steering satisfyingly slick. Lubricated and protected for another 9-12 months.

Stem reinstated, preload and pinch bolts treated to a lick Zefal Pro II Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racingI noticed the brake’s inner wire had frayed. New inner wire, TRP Spyre SLC calliper dialled in, I adjusted the front Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing and concluded the day’s fettling by switching the silver bottle cages for these black Elite Cruissi, homages.   

The following day, I tackled Denise’s quill stem adaptor and Stronglight A9 ST headset. Similar story. Again the lower bearing boot is very effective at keeping grease in and the elements out.

This time round I was better prepared with the headset spanners- trusty 35-year-old Campagnolo and nickel-plated BBB resurrected while I was searching for my Shimano pattern cassette tool. Component specific greases have their place-especially when tackling sensitive components. Suspension and seals, or contexts where galvanic seizures can strike (aluminium alloy seat posts in steel frames, for example). 

When it comes to bearings, more damage can result from a lack of grease or not cleaning bearing races of ingrained dirt and grease before. Everything came apart with consummate ease and as before, there was a moderate layer of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice clinging to the races and bearings. I’d come that far, so cleaned dipped a rag in solvent and cleaned the cups, bearings and races.

Bearing Juice and Pro II Greases to hand, I decided to apply the former liberally to the bottom race. The flow rate is beautiful in temperatures around 23 degrees, making it very easy to apply. Given these qualities, it would’ve been the obvious choice for the upper set. However, I cleaned components with solvent, dried and then decided upon the Zefal.

The mix n’ match approach might seem odd. However, the upper bearing takes less of a battering from wet, gritty roads and general loading. Then of course, there’s the convenience factor. The Pro II was already attached to a grease gun, so quicker and easier to deliver. Cable hanger reinstated, I applied a bead around the lockring threads and snugged down.

Quill converter treated to a top-up, front end back together. Couldn’t resist the urge to strip and re-grease the front cantilever posts- then was the time. Front wheel reinstated, cantilever straddle wire reconnected, I popped Denise from the stand. Engaging the front brake back and forth revealed no slop.

Turning the bars back and forth rewarded with satisfying smoothness-bearing tension bang on. Headset spanners engaged, locknut snugged down, it was just a matter of wiping away any excess grease with clean rag. Ok, I gave localised areas of frame a quick squirt of silicone infused bike spray and buffed to a shine.

Intuitively, I raised the bars by another few millimetres, so theoretically that’s reach and height optimised. Bike fits have taken a lot of trial and error from component choices, lengths, alignment etc, but sometimes it boils down to long, steady miles and subtle adjustments.

Substituting the auction site Garmin stem mount screws for a shorter pairing means I can fit the Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing atop and the Gaciron XAIOMAN 1000 front light beneath. It also presented ideal opportunity to whip out the torque wrench and check stem, rack and other fasteners. No issues, save for the stem face and pinch bolts, which needed nipping tight before slippage could sneak in.     I’ll close here with my long term review of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing