Bicycle Aikido

 

During the long and sometimes very hot summer of 1987, I acquired a copy of Bicycling Magazine’s Bicycle Repair. The opening chapter discussed Bicycle Aikido, which though a gross oversimplification, basically meant working with, rather than against components. Working things out and using appropriate force. Knowing how to hold the bike and tools correctly, for best effect. If you feel resistance, back off, if it’s coming together nicely, go with the flow.

Obviously, things like torque wrenches are far more prevalent, affordable to most home mechanics, so reduce the likelihood of component damage. That is, if they’re used correctly and with similar mechanical sympathy. I thought I’d long since consigned my copy to charity shops, or similar outlet. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it nestling between some other cycling publications from that decade, including Richard Balantine’s.

Black and white photographs, straightforward instructions/guidance. So straightforward, it led thirteen-year-old me, armed only with a spoke key into a false sense of security. I successfully turned a very minor wibble into a wildly wandering wheel. Fast forward 39 years and I’d been doing a fair bit of dirt road exploration aboard Ursula-one that led to me discovering a rave at 1030 in the morning, not to mention a chance encounter with Spiderman.  By this point, I’d reached my conclusions regarding Topeak’s Handleloc system and fancied quicker passage across metalled roads, so switched to Denise.

On one particularly hot afternoon, I decided it would be prudent to apply some Juice Lubes Slick Juice to the USE seat post and Hollowtech II axle. Two easy little jobs-regular “while I think of it” greasing keeps things mobile and happy. I found one of the pinch bolts unexpectedly arthritic, so gave that a more generous lick of grease and snugged both to 13nm, rather than the maximum 14. Seatpost removed, I took the opportunity to blast some more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube. Given temperatures exceeded thirty degrees, this would flow beautifully around the frames’ inner sanctum and cure rapidly.

Though friction is palpably lower than traditional greases when spinning the cranks, I’m not sure whether the Slick Juice is neck and neck with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, but I’ll reserve judgement for now. Will be interesting to compare their staying prowess, too. For context, I’ve needed to replenish Peaty’s Speed Grease every six months, rather than the 9-12 typical of stout lithium-based formulas.

Personally, I find partial stripping and re-greasing more convenient than wholesale, annual tear downs. However, I prioritise a stodgy, hell n’ high water blend for headsets and contact points-at least on winter bikes, mountain bikes, tourers and others serving in more challenging conditions.

Following on from my comments about subtle stockpiling of consumables, someone waved a KMC Z1 EPT chain under my nose along with some replacement Shimano pattern cleats-both at very favourable prices, so I snapped them up.  Chances are the Z1 EPT will replace the fixed’s Z5 come November when conditions will be wintrier and the Z5 will be due its pension. Staying with chains a moment, I’m still very impressed that the All Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax’s temperature stability, even when temperatures have been in the mid to high thirties.

No gooeyness, nor does it transfer readily to hands and a consistent 250- 280 miles per application is similarly impressive by wax standards (150-180 miles is more typical) in generally arid conditions and allowing for the odd showery interval. I’m hopeful these qualities will increase drivetrain life, longer term and am planning on defaulting to it until October, unless conditions dictate otherwise.  

Sometimes the best products are the ones we default to, simply because they perform well and let us enjoy the ride. I am privately something of an obsessive, I’m intrigued by how stuff works, performance gains, that sort of thing but they’re the last thing I’d want to discuss during a ride, save for a casual aside, café’ stop break etc.

Other people’s machines, the human element, the stories behind them etc, yes, but I wouldn’t want the duration of a ride, or conversation to be rooted in component choice, or technical specifications.  Much the same goes for motorcycles, photography, and anything else I’m involved with.

Some technical chat is absolutely fine and often very relevant but quickly becomes tedious if it's someone’s only line of curiosity, or conversation. Then again, I’ve never needed to be centre of attention, nor do I talk about myself, although I am consistently told that I am intriguing and maybe I like that air of mystery…I’ll close here with my review of the Topeak Pannier Drybag 16 Litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing  and Castelli  Ultimate Sun Protection UPF Jersey The Castelli Ultimate Sun Protection UPF | cycling-not-racing

 

 

 

 

Subtle Stockpiling

 

Bargains are to be found everywhere and seemingly limitless temptation. However, I always remind myself something is only a bargain if I actually need or want it. There are exceptions to every rule, but impulse buys don’t typically fall into this category. Some things I stockpile while cheap- deodorant, shampoo cleaning products, coffee, since they will always get used.

Same goes for chains, cassettes, and cables. I keep three sets of each aside, since these things usually wear out quietly, typically demanding replacement when you’re doing an impromptu check and the shop’s shut. I also keep a couple of cleats handy, for the same reason, although I seem to go through these at a more pedestrian rate.

 I picked up several blue KMC Z1 for £5 a few years back, but default to KMC X10 for the geared builds, KMC Z510 for fixed and single speed. While I like stuff that compliments, if a white, or “tarts handbag” gold are offered at the right price, on they go. Both the KMC X10 and Z510 are inexpensive and will last, with basic maintenance.

Conditions and chain lubes play their part, but I bargain on 1200 miles from an X10, 1700 from the Z510. This gives me three months to source some suitable replacements, at the right price. The most I’ve had from a track chain is 3,000 miles- the KMC Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN and Gusset S-Link. I retain considerable fondness for, but they’re not the lightest. I’m also fond of their nickel-plated Z1eHX, particularly on winter and working bikes, it’s just dearer than my defaults. I ‘m not a fan of missing links when it comes to fixed gear, preferring the old school prune and push, chain tool method.   

I function fairly well in extremes of temperature, although experience a gradual, palpable fatigue when the temperature creeps into the high 20s. Against this backdrop, the timing of Castelli’s offer to review the UPF 50 jersey couldn’t’ve been better, Conditions were optimal for evaluating the garments claims too.

Like-for-like, the UPF50 has a slight, tangible edge on the otherwise very comfortable Espresso Castelli Espresso Jersey | cycling-not-racing and Espresso 2 Castelli Espresso2 Jersey | cycling-not-racing jerseys.  The original Espresso fabric offers SPF30 protection, which is very welcome and covers a lot of bases in the broad strokes sense. However, where offered, I’d go for factor 50.  

Some faint increase in friction led me to checking and ultimately topping up the All Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing This also presented an opportunity to treat Muffin and Ursula a good wash. Though primarily dry, a tangible layer of stubborn, filmy grime clung to the bottom bracket shells, chainstays, fork legs, wheels etc. An excellent opportunity to test the stock blend Juice Lubes Bike Wash.   I’d also noted some very subtle oxidisation on Ursula’s Ryde hoops-just the machined sidewalls, since I’m not running disc brakes. 

Easily dismissed with some titanium cleaner I had nestling in my cleaning potions box and a medium stiff brush. A light, periodic coating of wax on the sidewalls, while I’m treating the frameset and components should lock the elements out.   Mid ride, I also discovered the Dia Compe 287 lever had suddenly worked loose. Nothing a few turns of a 4mm Allen key couldn’t fix and much easier to access compared with Tekro’s venerable RL520 and 340. While we evolve, our formative years retain some powerful influence.  

Au pairs aside, my fragile teenage mind was blown by the drop bar mtb concept.

Lightweight, rugged, go anywhere machines that were engaging to ride over any terrain, could carry me and luggage away from every torment. During that pre internet era, Mountain Bike Action was as close as we could get to the longer established US market, developments and technology. These were only found (sporadically at that) in bigger retailers, so Muddy Fox’s Trailblazer and Specialized’s Rock Combo were my first exposure to the concept. The latter was particularly well executed.

Fast forward nigh on four decades and the appeal remains immensely strong, life’s challenges just become more significant. Packing up and pissing off for a bit, to process, reflect and formulate plans of action should never be confused with running away. Running away solves nothing and just compounds issue(s).

Mercifully, jettisoning baggage didn’t extend to the Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16litre, which has proved very secure along rough, churned trails. Rixen Kaul has a small, yet palpable edge on the limpet-like retention. Topeak’s Handleloc system performs very well, and release is much smoother but allow for a little more audible chatter and "bob" if rough stuff’s your thing.        

Pruning, Tuning & Distraction

 

I resisted the cable pruning urge for all of 24 hours. Weary of bum and brain, I shuffled from my office chair and headed to the garage. Cursory inspection and some double-checking later, I’d marked the cut point and removed the front mech's inner wire. Measure twice, cut once; I performed a final check, snipped the outer cable and refitted. Save for pulling the inner wire through trimming, and restricting the front mech’s throw- done in five minutes.

Oh well, might as well…I was compelled to adjust Ursula’s rear brake. The cable had stretched slightly, which also saw me realigning the calliper.  This phase was a little more perfectionist- some might say obsessive. Having pulled the inner wire through a little further and snugged tight, I slackened the calliper mount, then used a rubber O-ring to bring the brake lever fully home. Theoretically, aligning the calliper, while I tightened it evenly. A technique that ultimately proved successful. No tickling, or rub, just smooth, progressive stopping. Yay! 

I’m a big fan of Topeak’s Uni Super Tourist 2.0 DX Rear Rack. Being a two-tier design, there’s no issues combining panniers and rack bags, whether their MTX Trunk Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing, or something more universal, such as my long serving Carradice. You can still pair these on a single tier design but whipping them on and off is more convoluted.

The rack is highly adjustable-great for various frame sizes and designs, regardless of whether they run discs, or not. 25 kilo maximum payload caters for most contexts, and the factory powder-coated finish is generally hardy.

My one minor niggle (aside from electroplated fasteners) is the rack’s design can hinder access to disc brake calliper mounts. A moot point tackled with a workshop, ball-end type but potentially tricky with some multi-tools. Singular L-type 5mm keys, or slender tools, such as this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing seem the best fits.   

250 mixed terrain miles on and the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax is also performing very well- clean and yet seemingly resilient. I’ve concluded that letting it cure for 7-8 hours reaps best reward-I sensed I was chancing it at three hours but was keen to take Ursula for a shakedown ride and it’s the sort of thing we’ve all done now and then.  Much the same story with Muffin’s KMC chain.

One thing led to another while I was contemplating the world and my place within it. Curious to see how compatible (or otherwise) Slick Juice was with titanium; I switched the super plush Sumo for this Torus. This also presented opportunity to top up Muffin’s frame preserve and having torqued everything correctly, I gave the post a polish and applied some protectant. Given the grease’s composition, I’m not expecting any issues with galvanic corrosion, but there’s only one way to find out.  

As the miles rack up, I’m increasingly impressed by the All-Mountain Sports Miani Glide Chain Was. Specifically its lubrication and temperature stability. It seems to penetrate and coat the chain’s pins and rollers, resulting in silent, crisp shifting, doesn’t attract grime and runs cleaner. In fairness, several waxes I’ve tested over the last year or two haven’t become a gooey mess when the mercury’s creeping beyond 23 degrees but some are definitely better than others. It's also proving quite effective on cables, cleat mechanisms and other metal-on-metal interfaces that we might want to lube “while we think of it”.

Leatt have graciously sent me some shoes and shades to play with. Now, I've defaulted to twin bolt gravel shoes for the past five years or so, on and off road since they strike an excellent balance of power transfer and walkability. Grippy soles offering excellent traction off the bike-even if it's just dis/mounting on an icy morning. Prior to this,  cross country mountain bike and sportier touring shoes were my go-tos. I'm still a big fan of these Quoc Pham, which are still going strong after thirteen years. Leather uppers are easy to care for and resist the elements very well-wipe clean with a damp cloth and treat with hide food, or shoe polish to keep them supple.

Back to the Leatt. These are the Trail 6.0, a trail shoe, which features a longer cleat channel, offering greater adjustment. Forward, for a more aggressive, dare we say, racy stance, further back for trail, all mountain and endurance genres. A little different. Synthetic uppers seem rugged, although means mesh panelling. Once upon a time, this meant very soggy feet when the heavens opened. However, the slightly wider fit means they are readily paired with thinner waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off, which are firm favourites of mine. 

Leatt also sent me their  Ride Viz Sierra Sunglasses. These employ "Biopolymer" frames with stainless steel temples. Polycarbonate lenses employing polarising technology, promising to eliminate glare and therefore, eye strain are something we've come to expect. Their casual, slightly classic design looks less aggressively technical, so theoretically a good fit off the bike. The Rebound employ carbon fibre frames and arms, keeping the weight low and rubberised grippers offering tactile tenure. 

Technical kit doesn't have to look overtly technical. Some brands still offer more relaxed "touring" shirts and shorts, although this is a smaller market, which seemed to almost reach a point of extinction, but made a quiet comeback thanks to gravel's rise in popularity. Prior to that, messenger subculture had a fleeting influence between 2005 and 2009. I'm still fond of "messenger knickers" which were nicely cut, looked stylish off the bike-perfect when meeting friends for lunch and similar social contexts. 

Looser fit mountain bike clothing is similarly practical. Endura Humvee remain popular (justly so, in my view) and cross, trail, touring and gravel genres very capably. Pockets and stash points means they're also ultra practical, won't look out of place on a mountain bike, tourer, gravel, or road bike.  Great for everyday riding where Lycra is inappropriate or frowned upon.   Hmm...Might that be why the Shetlands are shunning me ... I'll close here with my long term review of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc  Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

Seizing The Day

 

I’ve been tempted to replace Muffin’s front Mud Hugger Gravel Guard for something a little wider, having experienced some clearance issues with the 42mm Maxxis Roamer. For the time being, I’ve switched back to the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech and am enjoying a freshly repacked headset and the serenely slick cleanliness of the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Wax Chain Lube

The economies of scale don't always work in our favour, but they make a lot of sense when its stuff we're frequently using. Bike washes divide opinion and generally speaking, I default to good quality wash n' wax formulas- 5 litres or thereabouts, since I also wash cars and other vehicles and £17 will last me at least a year, even though filthy winters.  However, dedicated bike washes can cut through the grime more effectively-especially impacted stuff.

A typical litre, readymade potion will cost £10, whereas a 5-litre concentrate will cost around £25 make at least ten litres. Price is not the only factor to consider. Some formulas, especially at the cheaper end of the market are not necessarily kind to disc brakes and other sensitive components. Other potential issues involve streaking and similar blemishes in paintwork and corrosion/oxidisation on aluminium alloys.

The shorter the standing times, the more aggressive the formula likely is and this can cause deterioration longer term. Especially when rinsed with warm water. During winter, where roads are typically gritted, rinse bikes with cold water FIRST, going straight for the warm sudsy bucket will simply accelerate the corrosive process.  

I've used and tested a wealth of different formulas over the years, and most have been competent. Some have left particularly positive impressions. 

Motoverde (previously Green Clean MX PRO GREEN MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW) Bike Wash is one that can be left for 15 minutes or so, which really allows it to east into stubborn grime. A lot of people like a highly visual formulas (this also applies to other cleaning products-shampoos and conditioners) on the belief they are more effective.

In practice, a formula that clings to the host will breakdown grease, oils, mud and similar contaminant more effectively, resulting in deeper clean and using less product into the bargain. Reading the manufacturer's directions should be a given (but a lot of people don't).  Some, including the Motoverde are designed to work when the host surface is wet, which may be perceived as another stage and a faff.

However, it can ultimately save time and achieve better results.  It's also important to remember that bike washes are not degreasers, although in concentrate form, they can be very effective at stripping impacted oily gunk from cassettes, rings and similar metal surfaces. Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate Weldtite Bike Cleaner Concentrate | cycling-not-racing being two that spring to mind.

One thing invariably prompts something else and, in this instance, replacing Ursula's cassette led to me discovering a sticky, well borderline seized TRP Spyre SLC calliper. I've not had any issues with Muffin’s, although Muffin is tarmac based, whereas Ursula does a fair bit of mileage off road, hence the calliper gets basted with more crap. 

I've not had too many issues per se, although I've heard the design is vulnerable to this and internal corrosion- piston and bearings. It is possible to strip the calliper, although TRP discourages this, so at your own risk.

Given the callipers are relatively cheap, not the end of the world. However, if I was going to buy a replacement, I'd nothing to lose by blasting the calliper through with a high strength solvent to purge anything gunky, followed by a GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT "chaser". I’d been out for a ride, returned and took a different route.

Having removed the calliper, I gave it a liberal blast of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing allowed that to marinate for a few minutes, pumping the mechanism to ensure full penetration. Engaging the calliper by hand accelerated this, a sludgy brown film seeping out as the mechanism freed. Rinsed with clean water, I dried thoroughly and applied Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing, taking particular care to avoid contaminating the pads.

This prompted a wholesale tear down. I needed to replace the brake cable, so took this as my cue to switch the bars and stem, repack the FSA aheadset with fresh Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Waterproof Grease The Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing  An orgy of fettling and script changes followed but sometimes the most time-effective decision is to strip and start again.  

I’ll close here with my review of the Gaciron XIAOMAN 1000 Multifunctional All-in-One Professional Outdoor Front light The Gaciron XIAOMAN-1000 | cycling-not-racing