Sitting On It

 

I’ve always liked a bargain but there’s a significant difference between bargain and false economy. Often, it’s a very subtle differential in price too. I’ve reasoned that if I’m typically returning 1300miles from a ten-speed chain, especially during winter, then there’s some sense in economising here. I default to KMC these days, but my search engine flagged up a 116 link Clarks for £8.99.  

All that glitters is not gold, or indeed nickel plated. I opted for two slightly cheaper KMC, keeping them in stock until Ursula and Denise’s existing chains reach .7 on the chain checker. Chains, cables, brake pads and the odd cassette are parts I like to keep in stock, since they usually fail at the least convenient point and in the case of chains, can wear remarkably quickly.  

While Ursula’s front RL340 proved an effective job of commanding the TRP Spyre, upgrading it to a 520 was the right move. I’ve re-discovered the 340 pairing, and will put these aside for Denise, should need arise, now I’ve decided the non-aero route was but a 5-minute wonder. I’d also toyed with popping some new hoods on an old set of Campagnolo Athena (which if I recall were reversible) but boils down to change for changes sake, essentially and not the best use of my time.   

I’ve replaced Ursula’s front pads with these DiscoBrakes Sintered Brake Pads | cycling-not-racing since I was doing a deep clean. That said; I was pleasantly surprised to discover once I’d removed the sludgy grime, a decent amount of pad material remained on the substituted pair. I’ve popped them away in my disc pads packet and will re-use another time.      

Left unchecked a worn chain will chomp through more expensive drivetrain components-cassettes, rings and derailleurs. This is particularly costly on a touring lorry with old school triple setup. Keeping a touring triple on song year-round can be something of a chore, so changing the chain just before it’s spent saves time, money and hassle. Rim wear is also rapid, if your bike(s) run rim brakes and don’t keep an eye on pad health. Regularly cleaning them of grit and other embedded muck will extend the life of both, with relatively little effort and save a lot of money long term.    

Talking of tourers, Raleigh’s Sojourn was an interesting model which I spent quite a bit of time testing back in 2012.  

However, despite handsome looks and some definite charms, with the stock wheelset it was less responsive and engaging than I’d come to expect, even from a traditional tourer, which is designed to handle predictably while hauling the kitchen sink. The sojourn sprung back from the vaults of my bike testing consciousness when someone posted their much modified and recently re-finished (powder coated) example.  

Despite some definite charm, I would upgrade the wheelset- probably to Ryde Sputnik, XT rear, Nexus, or Alfine Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing dynohub up front. Rubber-wise, and assuming we’re going the full mudguard (fender) route) I’d go for something like the Pirelli Angel DT Urban c. 37mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing. I’d possibly ditch the metal guards for chrome plastics, too. Though functional enough, I was never really taken with Avid BB5, or other single piston mechanical callipers, finding them tricky to adjust and prone to rub.  

They’d be substituted for TRP Spyre and decent quality sealed cables, such as these Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing   Staying with the stock theme, I’d also switch the Sora brifters for Tektro RL520 and bar cons of some description. Alternatively, something like Kona Dew Drop might be a better starting point. Much of it for me comes down to the right price.    

I’ve done enough time sat on the WTB Rocket saddle, which has proven very agreeable to my derriere, despite being narrower than my bike fit ideal WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing. It’s offered ample support, the subtle pressure relieving channel has done its thing competently, without fuss, or fanfare.  Contact points generally, and saddles specifically are very personal things and not an exact science.  

With a favourite go-to technical shell coming to the end of its useful life, the arrival of this Madison Stellar Ultra Reflective Men’s Waterproof Jacket was also timely. Aside from the bold yellow and retina tickling retro-reflective detailing, waterproofing and breathability are 10,000 apiece and there’s a big waterproof breast pocket and at £79.99 it's competitively priced so will be interesting to see how it performs in the coming weeks.    

 

I’ll only be five minutes...

 

I’ve been here more times than I’d care to admit. I am unlikely to be the only rider who has a flash of inspiration and only to find those five minutes expanding to fit the time available. Midday, on Saturday, I decided I’d just tweak the Holdsworth’s brake lever positioning.  

A simple matter of unwinding the T-One MR Fantastic Handlebar Tape, slipping a long 5mm Allen key into the lever, moving upwards, then refitting the wrap around the Coefficient Wave Handlebars COEFFICIENT WAVE HANDLEBAR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Before I knew it, I’d switched the old but worthy Tektro for a new silver RL340 and fresh inner wire, and  the T-One MR Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) substituted for this Ciclovation Grind Touch Bar Tape CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

I’d got past the point of being hungry, and my blood sugar was beginning to slide. Not ideal, nor my rendition of Ozzy Osbourne’s “No Bone Movies”. Crucially, the job was done, and maybe it’s the successful recycling of bar tape, but the results pleased me. Lever perfectly aligned and sufficient power to bring the rear wheel off the ground-if that’s your thing.  

Now glue that freshly pruned inner wire and celebrate with some cake and diesel strength coffee.... Tyres inflated, good weather, check. Off for a dawn blast, which confirmed these subtle tweaks were well worth the time and unintentionally extended fettling.  

The soundtrack to this outing had shifted to Keith Richards’ Talk is Cheap, which hails from 1988 but still resonates very deeply with me. (Bought the Album (vinyl) in the summer of ‘92 and Main Offender, his subsequent album in the summer of 1993, in case it mattered) Had a few rabbits test the front stopper, which did its thing with palpable efficiency. It’s also smoother than the older Tektro lever.  

Much of this, I attribute to the RL340 being a more ergonomic fit for my hand.  The Knog Nerd Computer had also stopped working. Something I attributed to the head units CR2032 cell finally giving up the ghost.  

Couldn’t justify additional diagnostic time and indeed, time away from other tasks, so revisited this, post ride. I’ve a soft spot for the NERD, so was relieved to find the cell hadn’t leaked and caused contact/more acute damage.  

Battery switched, unit re-calibrated and back on the bars. The NERD in question is the baby of the now discontinued range and only has 5 functions. Current speed, trip distance, trip time, clock and odometer. Befitting of a pared to the essentials road bike-I love the simplicity and the NERDs seem solid too.  

The first cycle computer I ever had was back in 1989- wired 6 function Cat-Eye Vectra that I fitted to my fixed gear conversion, which was based around a 501 tubed Raleigh frameset. Fag sealed bottom bracket, very ornate GB quill stem, 42cm SR bars, SR track crankset, fluted polished alloy post, Turbo copy Suede saddle (worn smooth, eventually)  

I loved and rode that bike for four years, until the frame fatigued where head and downtube met.... Maillard double-fixed hub laced to basic but serviceable Weinmann rims and shod with Vittoria Roma 25mm tyres.  Back then, Cat-Eye and Avocet and Vetta were common sights on seasoned riders ‘bars.  

Wired computers were (and arguably still are) the most reliable. However, remember to remove, when performing headset strips, otherwise you’ll snag and ultimately, rip the cabling. An unenviable feat and one I achieved twice. By that point, the gap in terms of prices and reliability between wired and wireless had closed considerably.    

I’ve seen a few doing the rounds on auction sites and at sensible prices. If I was wanting to add the finishing touch to a bike from this period, maybe. Wouldn’t pay classic prices for one, though. I occasionally get drawn to framesets, such as the magnesium Kirk Precision. Interesting, and often maligned framesets but much of this comes from a misunderstanding of the concept.  

These were conceived as a mass-produced and very inexpensive racing frameset. Casting wasn’t the best and there are few left these days. I was offered a frameset (new) with headset, seat post, and bottom bracket for £99.99 back in 1990. I sometimes reflect on that being a missed opportunity, but I also recognise, at the time, it was a distraction purchase.  

A distraction from teen angst and unrequited love. Serious things at the time and felt very acutely. Talking of concepts, I’m finding myself increasingly warming to TPU tubes, as a serious alternative to butyl. Weight and ride quality are the main draws, price and ease of repair are two turnoffs. I’m running some on the Teenage Dream, fixed gear winter trainer, too (with butyl tubes in the wedge packs, in case of flats. Some, including Eclipse can be patched, but curing times aren’t rest-stop friendly).