I am switching back to the “school chair” fork that was upfront for several years, rather than risk something Chinese. Just a matter of switching the crown race over from the Project 2. Meantime, I’ll keep the existing setup, test the Shimano Alfine dyno hub and Capgo cable.
Upgrading the Tektro 710 in favour of the Shimano CX50 was another inspired choice. That’s not to say the Tektro 710 isn’t a decent stopper- it is. However, the CX50 is superior and simpler to adjust. New chain was also timely- though shifting wasn’t “Off” it’s a notch crisper now. I’ve also discovered a couple of mid-range 10 speed KMC chains that I’d squirreled away, while on the hunt for something else, naturally.
Subtly raising the fixed’s saddle height was another good move. Up front I’ve switched to this Vittoria Adventure Tech Tyre, which features a 3mm thick puncture repelling belt, which runs along the centre-strip, rather akin to the Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . The Kenda had been on the Halo Evura/SP SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) for so many miles, the wire bead required unusual effort to shift, even with a long-handled Hutchinson tyre lever and two Ritchey models, designed to stow away in the bar ends.
Puzzling but thankfully it relented and without incident. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the 38mm Vittoria was more compliant but had a subversive streak, peeling away once I’d got it 70% home. Cursory inspection reveals a maximum pressure of 85psi (80 for the 32mm (about 1.26 in) Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus).
However, while both employ puncture repelling centre strips, the Kenda’s is 5mm (about 0.2 in) thick and has gone at least ten months and several thousand miles without a single flat. It will be interesting to see how the Vittoria’s compares.
It also features a Graphene compound for enhanced life and is E-Bike R75 compliant, which basically means it's designed to perform on the fastest models. Surprising since it gives change from £30.
Thirteen years down the line, I’ve also decided it was high time the “spare” Halo Aero Track rear wheel got some TLC.
For some reason, the axle’s threads had begun shedding and if I’m going to open the hub, I may as well go for new cartridge bearings, a liberal helping of grease, topped off with a quick tension and true of the hoop. These deep-section rims are not welded, rather joined by pressure and feature a powder-coated finish.
The latter looks to have been applied directly, rather than atop a primer, hence the odd chip here and there but still in great shape, all told. Light cosmetics aside, I’m of the opinion a second/spare wheel still needs to be bang on, since you’ll be depending on it, while the best, or main is on the jig.
Not to be outdone, the cassette style lockring belonging my fixed gear winter/trainer’s main Halo fixed G Track Hub HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting came loose, resulting in some uncharacteristic chain noise. (I was on the return leg and only a few miles from home.) I’m a big fan of the Fix-G and its design and the lockring is very reliable.
However, check it every 250 miles or so, or before a long ride-unless you’re prepared to carry a cassette type tool along. No problem with the SQR Tour, given its cavernous capacity but a bit OTT possibly. Anyhow, I snugged mine back down, reinstated the wheel and got on with my life.
Ursula’s front Schwalbe Land Cruiser had succumbed to its first flat. A very thin, sharp hedge clipping swept up by the recent rains. The head was very difficult to spot and indeed, drag out. I had to resort to needle nose pliers. On long rides, or those in the arse end of nowhere, there’s a good case for carrying a small set of pliers, or a little multi-tool such as this True Utility, which I’ve had for some years and am firmly attached to.
