Presently organising venue(s) for September’s “everyday beauty” photo shoot-some
folks are more helpful than others but a few decent options cropped up and the
sands of time remain favourable.
My mother commissioned me to photograph a local landscape, which has
been blown up on a 5x4 foot weather proof canvas. Primarily a centrepiece for
her carport’s sound, though bland brickwork, it’s also an inexpensive bit of
advertising.
I’m continually frustrated by the tsunami of people willing to work for
free under the misguided notion they will gain experience and exposure before
slipping seamlessly into a salaried career. Creative industries, such as
photography and journalism are ravaged by this myopia. At best such behaviours
devalue skilled vocations, fuelling a race to the bottom economy. If
commercial, profit making entities can acquire goods and services for nothing,
they will, sending an industry straight to the morgue.
Ah but they’re giving me the byline/photo credit, leading to valuable…People
look at the visuals, not to see who produced them. Proud mothers may scan the
credits of TV shows in search of their freelance offspring but in practice, the
viewing public generally flicks channels, nips to the loo, or for a brew.
Frankly, if you’re determined to cut your teeth, or expand port-folios,
get in touch with small, grass roots charitable organisations and see what
reciprocal deal can be struck. Payment needn’t always be monetary-at least to
begin with. I’ve done photo shoots at cost for friends-of friends, which has
led to useful, word-of-mouth exposure and subsequent paid commissions.
However, I’ve been implicit in my terms/conditions and most people have
repaid me in kind, many times over. Anything used for commercial purposes must
be paid for. Ran over, now to my week on
two and four wheels…
This Jagwire CGX SL “Universal sport” brake cableset also arrived in
serendipitous fashion; just in time for a cable group test and the Ilpompino’s
RL250/Cane Creek transplant. A penny shy of £20 buys wound steel outers with
internal sleeve, stainless steel inners and “slick lube” lining, cable stops,
end caps and doughnuts.
Length is pretty generous too-300cm of outer cable while inners measure
135/235cm front and rear respectively. Ours was the black with retro-reflective
detailing-brilliant for workhorses and winter bikes, although purple and yellow
are the alternatives. The M-Part bar wrap is also fairing up very nicely,
despite being unravelled on four separate occasions, although I think any
further disruption will be its last.
This combination has transformed the already fairly potent front
stopper, delivering precisely the sort of modulation, feel and stopping prowess
I’d been looking for in a disc setup. I’ve always liked firm feedback; something
I attribute to early exposure to European components characterised by strong
springs. However, their action is very light, which is good news for smaller hands. This preference also applies to other vehicles-car and motorcycle clutches being
obvious examples, although perhaps the cable operated VW type were a press too
far.
Speaking of cars…. After some trial and error, the Ka’s erratic starting
and idling was traced to an expiring Idle Speed Control Valve. Unlike its
Endura engine predecessor, this hadn’t missed a beat in over 105,000 miles.
Access is much harder too, so best left to a helpful independent garage
unless you’re a competent DIY/mechanic. Given its age, I opted for replacement
rather than cleaning, bringing the total bill to £151.12 (including VAT). Reticent
starting, unexpected stalling-often when approaching junctions, needing to keep
the revs higher in slow moving traffic all point its way.
Most armchair experts are oblivious to the different physical
geographies; hence finding credible guidance online requires persistence.
Removal and cleaning of the Endura unit is a twenty minute affair, well
within a beginners grasp. You’ll need an old ice cream tub, retired tooth
brush, carb cleaner/similar strong solvent and ideally a torque wrench,
although in a pinch, 10mm ring/socket spanners will do.
Start by depressing the wire clip and sliding it from the electrical
contexts. Next undo the two 10mm bolts and slide away from the inlet manifold.
Pop this hardware in a zipped pocket, or ice cream tub/similar receptacle.
Place the ICV unit in the bowl and check for a coating of black, sooty deposit.
Deliver the solvent inside, then scrub vigorously with that old
toothbrush-repeating the last two stages until the grot’s dissolved. Refit as
before, giving fasteners a cursory lick of medium strength threadlock and the
cure is complete. The KA club also provide a very informative step-by-step
guide on their site http://www.kaklub.co.uk/pwpcontrol.php?pwpID=1898
Shot ICV? £50 from car parts supplier, or you might be able to source a
serviceable, second-hand example from a breaker for considerably less...
