No matter how well you maintain things, stuff wears out-at least that’s how I’m consoling myself. A matter of weeks since I replaced the Halo Fix-G hub’s cartridge bearings, the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) has succumbed to the dreaded bearing slop. Both have managed four years, year-round service before getting the grumbles. Ursula’s Shimano Ultegra remains in rude health almost a decade down the line and exposed to similar conditions. I should stress that I swerve jet washes and any other seal-breaching nastiness.
However, while the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting are user-serviceable, the majority of “Ship in a Bottle” dyno hubs must be shipped back to the factory. Thankfully, I have switched to its SL9 cousin. Mercifully, the Shimano centre lock disc rotor was still in rude health, although it seemed a little thicker than the six-bolt Spyre. This just meant winding the pads out very slightly, and I took this opportunity to double-check the caliper’s alignment- be rude not to.
Stuff wears out, eventually, even if you care for it. However, it always seems to strike at the least convenient time. I like to think myself stoic and pragmatic, but I'll confess the past two years have been quite taxing. A seemingly relentless pandemic coupled with the freefall induced by a popularist puppet heading the UK’s governing party, which has neutered the UK and is increasingly leaving it isolated.
Since the 2016 referendum, there’s been a palpable drift towards xenophobia and indeed, the mainstream acceptance of it. Authoritarian popularism is indeed on the rise elsewhere in Europe- it has often lapped at the shorelines of France and Italy’s political landscape. These things never end well, as history documents with terrifying detail.
Several years down the line and I've also noted some minor slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake drop Levers CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the anodized finish is also past the first flush of youth, where it can’t be seen, so they’ll stay. Thankfully, I’ve found a right hand Tektro RL520.. These were designed for linear-pull and last employed on Ursula 12 years back. I enjoy a rummage through the spares bin when I turn up something perfect, that I otherwise might have to pay for.
Wheel and stopping sorted, I tweaked the chain tension (for some bizarre reason, the wheel had also gone off centre), raised the saddle by a few milimetres too. This was all rounded off with a sudsy bucket wash and hard paste waxing to protect painted, anodised and lacquered surfaces from winter’s wrath.
Lights are generally very reliable these days, but I always run two rear lights (sometimes a third, if it's tethered to luggage) just in case the main unit should go roque and power down in the arse end of nowhere. Cue the Xeccon Mars 60’s sudden shut down.
Charge life indicator said green before I set out. A waning lithium-ion cell is one explanation, the “Braking” function sapping juice being another. Either way, I had the Ravemen TR30M RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) clinging to Ursula’s right hand seat stay. Yes, I know, being a dynamo devotee, I really must get a rider powered rear.
No sign of the impending “artic” blasts proclaimed by the tabloids (presumably as a distraction from the UK’s multiple crisies), so for the time being, the fixed will stick with the Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) /Bontrager and Ursula’s Schwalbe mix n’ match pairing. First hint of abominable snowmen, blizzards etc and I'll switch to the spikes, pronto. I’m impressed with the Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are doing a decent job of keeping me dry and keeping the fixed from a decent amount of scuzzy stuff.
There are plenty of maintenance sprays around these days. Unfortunately, most contain Teflon (PTFE) which, though useful is toxic. It’s widely recognised as being unkind to seals and other rubberised components. However, it’s not good for electricals either. I’ve tended to err towards Vaseline for dynamo contacts but then along came some Motorex Joker Spray. It's essentially a water displacing “lubricant” type similar in design brief to WD40, and Castrol DWF. So far, the formula looks stockier than the iconic and arguably universally recognisable blue can.
Dynamo connectors aside, I’ve applied some to work stand clamps, lock mechanisms, spark plugs/car electricals, cleat mechanisms. Not 100% sure when it comes to elastomers, such as those common to Cane Creek Thud Buster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) and similar suspension posts, so I've opted for the brands’ silicone spray.
