That'll Be A New Set Of Bearings, Then...

No matter how well you maintain things, stuff wears out-at least that’s how I’m consoling myself. A matter of weeks since I replaced the Halo Fix-G hub’s cartridge bearings, the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) has succumbed to the dreaded bearing slop. Both have managed four years, year-round service before getting the grumbles. Ursula’s Shimano Ultegra remains in rude health almost a decade down the line and exposed to similar conditions. I should stress that I swerve jet washes and any other seal-breaching nastiness.  

However, while the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting are user-serviceable, the majority of “Ship in a Bottle” dyno hubs must be shipped back to the factory. Thankfully, I have switched to its SL9 cousin. Mercifully, the Shimano centre lock disc rotor was still in rude health, although it seemed a little thicker than the six-bolt Spyre. This just meant winding the pads out very slightly, and I took this opportunity to double-check the caliper’s alignment- be rude not to.    

Stuff wears out, eventually, even if you care for it. However, it always seems to strike at the least convenient time. I like to think myself stoic and pragmatic, but I'll confess the past two years have been quite taxing. A seemingly relentless pandemic coupled with the freefall induced by a popularist puppet heading the UK’s governing party, which has neutered the UK and is increasingly leaving it isolated.    

Since the 2016 referendum, there’s been a palpable drift towards xenophobia and indeed, the mainstream acceptance of it. Authoritarian popularism is indeed on the rise elsewhere in Europe- it has often lapped at the shorelines of France and Italy’s political landscape. These things never end well, as history documents with terrifying detail.      

 

Several years down the line and I've also noted some minor slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake drop Levers CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the anodized finish is also past the first flush of youth, where it can’t be seen, so they’ll stay. Thankfully, I’ve found a right hand Tektro RL520.. These were designed for linear-pull and last employed on Ursula 12 years back. I enjoy a rummage through the spares bin when I turn up something perfect, that I otherwise might have to pay for.   

Wheel and stopping sorted, I tweaked the chain tension (for some bizarre reason, the wheel had also gone off centre), raised the saddle by a few milimetres too. This was all rounded off with a sudsy bucket wash and hard paste waxing to protect painted, anodised and lacquered surfaces from winter’s wrath.   

Lights are generally very reliable these days, but I always run two rear lights (sometimes a third, if it's tethered to luggage) just in case the main unit should go roque and power down in the arse end of nowhere. Cue the Xeccon Mars 60’s sudden shut down.  

Charge life indicator said green before I set out. A waning lithium-ion cell is one explanation, the “Braking” function sapping juice being another. Either way, I had the Ravemen TR30M RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) clinging to Ursula’s right hand seat stay. Yes, I know, being a dynamo devotee, I really must get a rider powered rear. 

No sign of the impending “artic” blasts proclaimed by the tabloids (presumably as a distraction from the UK’s multiple crisies), so for the time being, the fixed will stick with the Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) /Bontrager and Ursula’s Schwalbe mix n’ match pairing. First hint of abominable snowmen, blizzards etc and I'll switch to the spikes, pronto.  I’m impressed with the Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are doing a decent job of keeping me dry and keeping the fixed from a decent amount of scuzzy stuff.   

There are plenty of maintenance sprays around these days. Unfortunately, most contain Teflon (PTFE) which, though useful is toxic. It’s widely recognised as being unkind to seals and other rubberised components. However, it’s not good for electricals either. I’ve tended to err towards Vaseline for dynamo contacts but then along came some Motorex Joker Spray. It's essentially a water displacing “lubricant” type similar in design brief to WD40, and Castrol DWF. So far, the formula looks stockier than the iconic and arguably universally recognisable blue can.  

Dynamo connectors aside, I’ve applied some to work stand clamps, lock mechanisms, spark plugs/car electricals, cleat mechanisms. Not 100% sure when it comes to elastomers, such as those common to Cane Creek Thud Buster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com)  and similar suspension posts, so I've opted for the brands’ silicone spray.    

Lighting, Camera Action

 

A week down the line and I’m getting better acquainted with the CamPark V40 Action Camera and find it generally intuitive. Forgoing the waterproof housing has addressed the issues with microphone buzz. Video capture is also reasonably good, especially when mounted directly to an aftermarket mount.  

This Minoura VC100 S has been a consistent feature of Ursula’s bars for 8 years. The shock-absorbing cork platform expired last year, substituted with a rubber shim doing something close to nothing in my spares box.  

This overcomes any minor blurring that could strike along washboard tarmac, even with the in-camera stabilisation engaged. Action cameras have relatively small sensors, hence while the image quality is favourable in bright conditions (sun and snow for example) low light performance is less consistent. 

I’ve switched the gasket-sealed weatherproof housing to my fixed gear winter/trainer. Not that I’m pensioning off the Geonaute G-Eye 2 Escape. Though quite elderly and with fewer bells and whistles than we’d expect from a more contemporary model, it’s still reliable and delivering decent footage. I suspect it will become bin fodder once the integrated battery expires, mind.   

Some bar tidying followed, since time allowed. The K-lite Bike packer Pro V2’s switch now nestles beside the lamp and the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) in its place. Neater and presented the opportunity to snug down some otherwise easily overlooked fasteners.   

Another batch of DIY corrosion inhibitor has also been brewed. I’d usually make more but this was plentiful for topping up the KA and Micra’s protection. Applying during any damp period will simply seal the moisture IN, which defeats the object. This formula is made using candlewax, solvent and whatever cheap as chips motor oil I have laying around. 

While tending to Ursula’s mudguard hardware, I noticed the Lezyne pump had been “wood peckering” the tubby tourer’s down tube, marking the cream powder coat. After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist, so, I polished the blemish out, placed a sticker and a piece of Zefal Skin armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) atop for peace of mind/additional insurance.  While Ursula’s chain might be sporting a slightly scuzzy beard, the SKS Lube Your Chain TESTED: SKS LUBE YOUR CHAIN (sevendaycyclist.com) is a waxy formula that seems to lock contaminant in the outer layer, so it can’t become a ruthlessly effective grinding paste. 

A little goes a very long way, stays put and friction is also comparatively low. If forecasts are accurate, a spell of higher pressure is to hit the UK in the next week, which might present the opportunity for lighter lubes and some serious miles on the Teenage Dream.  Meantime, I’m allowing the Univega to become uncharacteristically filthy in preparation for this bike wash.  

Some people will argue (and I can understand their angle) that these are unnecessary. 

Car wash formulas are cheap as chips, will strip the grot, and leave a protectant barrier behind. I freely admit to being a fan, especially during winter when time is dictated by temperature and available daylight. My preference leans towards concentrates, which I can brew to taste i.e. a degreaser for a deep component clean, a winter weight grot softener, and one for lighter, generic blow-overs.  

Much the same principle when it comes to lubes, maintenance sprays, and freeing agents. A very thin spray, like GT85GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) is great for displacing moisture post wash freeing sticky cables and will even ease a reluctant seatpost. However, immobile, or semi seized stuff requires a penetrant spray. In a pinch, strong solvent-based degreasers/disc brake cleaners can also save the day.  

Technique also plays a part on the efficiency front. Taking stuck seatposts as an example, wrapping an old bubble wrap envelope (cut down) into a cone shape and secure it around the seat tube with a zip tie (having removed the seat bolt).  

Deliver a quick shot directly at the post and tap the saddle with a rubber “engineer’s” mallet. Now deliver subsequent blasts into the envelope, in a circular motion, this will see it travel inside the post steadily. Give the saddle regular firm taps, every few minutes to encourage penetration, break the seal of corrosion and ultimately, free the post. Similar technique for old-fashioned quill stems, too.     

I also keep a stockier maintenance spray for protecting fasteners from corrosion, longer-term lubrication to brake/gear cables, masking electroplated frame/fork ends, keeping locking/mechanisms mobile. Horses for courses, is my point. Talking of which, those seeking a small-wheeled magnesium e-folder might be interested in this MIRider MIRIDER 2021 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)