Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Hey Buster!

 My love of high-power dynamos is well documented, there’s a lot to be said for high-performance rechargeable lights. Not everyone wants the investment of a new hub, lamp and switchgear. Yes, it will repay the investment over time, quite quickly, if you’re a mile-munching tourist, or Audax rider. If this is your genre of riding, K-Lite Ultra Road LD Dynamo Bike Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is well worth a closer look.  

However, dynamo systems pose a significant outlay and in some, off road contexts, an uber lumen rechargeable has an edge-especially at slow speeds. I’ve spent the last few weeks racking up the miles on my fixed gear winter/trainer, enjoying its relatively lively, yet dependable handling. I was also assessing the Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger guards’ performance since conditions have been suitably autumnal. Not everyone will be endeared to their slightly industrial aesthetic, but I’ve grown to love them-in every respect. I’m also seriously taken with the KMC S1 chain, so much so, I’ve acquired another two, for later down the line.  

Given the wet, scuzzy roads, said machine was needing a good sudsy bucket wash, which it duly received, and I stripped the existing Peaty’s Link Lube in favour of Muc-Off Ludicrous AF, since I wanted to assess its characteristics on a fixed transmission, since some time trialists still compete on fixed gear.   

Given the conditions, brake pads are also wearing quite quickly. I’m hopeful the TRP Spyre SLC caliper will materialise shortly. Meantime, having retouched Ursula’s paint chip to the point of being undetectable, and resolving the stopping and shifting issues, we were ready to make the most of the cool, wet and dark mornings. I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding Axiom Oceanwave City+AXIOM OCEANWAVE CITY+ SEAT BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Oxford products www.oxfordproducts.com  sent me this Sigma Buster 2000... 

As the name suggests, top whack is 2000lumens but staircases sensibly, giving it good scope for different locales. 1300lumens is good enough for unlit lanes, 600 lumens are good enough for semi-rural work, without being oppressive through the suburbs, although, I’d still go for the 300 eco through built-up areas.  

There are helmet and bar mounting options and crucially, a bar-mounted wireless remote for easy mode switches. The battery pack can either be tethered to the frame, or when helmet-mounted, a jersey/jacket pocket Sigma suggests putting it in a rucksack, but I’m pleased to report, despite tipping the scales at 368g, it doesn’t bound around like a playful Labrador.  

I’ve been running its 700lumen sibling atop my long-serving Bell helmet for several weeks, after a couple of years hiatus and at 147g, it’s relatively unobtrusive. Sigma claims the Buster 2000 lamp weighs a mere 100g- (what by my scales). I was pleased to discover the Buster 2000 fully compatible with the 700’s mount), since that was already in situ. A bar-mounted remote is another definite boon, meaning effortless switching between modes.   

Run times are cited as between 2.5 and 20 hours. The latter refers to the pulsing and flashing modes but useful and welcome, nonetheless. Staying with Sigma, I’ve also grown fond of the Sigma BC9.16 ATS Wireless Cycle Computer SIGMA BC9.16 ATS WIRELESS CYCLE COMPUTER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

I’ve also received this Magicshine Ray 2600 Smart Remote Bike Light, which is a dual-lens model that looks a potentially close rival to Ravemen PR2400 front Light RAVEMEN PR2400 FRONT LIGHT (sevendaycyclist.com)  The  Ravemen is designed so you can plug in a “power bank” and extend run times, which can be a godsend in any context. However, the thing to keep in mind with high-power rechargeable lights per se, is they are designed for commuting and training in contexts where you don’t need the full output for too long. Great for escaping the suburbs and letting off some steam along the backroads.    

 

Lighting, Camera Action

 

A week down the line and I’m getting better acquainted with the CamPark V40 Action Camera and find it generally intuitive. Forgoing the waterproof housing has addressed the issues with microphone buzz. Video capture is also reasonably good, especially when mounted directly to an aftermarket mount.  

This Minoura VC100 S has been a consistent feature of Ursula’s bars for 8 years. The shock-absorbing cork platform expired last year, substituted with a rubber shim doing something close to nothing in my spares box.  

This overcomes any minor blurring that could strike along washboard tarmac, even with the in-camera stabilisation engaged. Action cameras have relatively small sensors, hence while the image quality is favourable in bright conditions (sun and snow for example) low light performance is less consistent. 

I’ve switched the gasket-sealed weatherproof housing to my fixed gear winter/trainer. Not that I’m pensioning off the Geonaute G-Eye 2 Escape. Though quite elderly and with fewer bells and whistles than we’d expect from a more contemporary model, it’s still reliable and delivering decent footage. I suspect it will become bin fodder once the integrated battery expires, mind.   

Some bar tidying followed, since time allowed. The K-lite Bike packer Pro V2’s switch now nestles beside the lamp and the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) in its place. Neater and presented the opportunity to snug down some otherwise easily overlooked fasteners.   

Another batch of DIY corrosion inhibitor has also been brewed. I’d usually make more but this was plentiful for topping up the KA and Micra’s protection. Applying during any damp period will simply seal the moisture IN, which defeats the object. This formula is made using candlewax, solvent and whatever cheap as chips motor oil I have laying around. 

While tending to Ursula’s mudguard hardware, I noticed the Lezyne pump had been “wood peckering” the tubby tourer’s down tube, marking the cream powder coat. After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist, so, I polished the blemish out, placed a sticker and a piece of Zefal Skin armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) atop for peace of mind/additional insurance.  While Ursula’s chain might be sporting a slightly scuzzy beard, the SKS Lube Your Chain TESTED: SKS LUBE YOUR CHAIN (sevendaycyclist.com) is a waxy formula that seems to lock contaminant in the outer layer, so it can’t become a ruthlessly effective grinding paste. 

A little goes a very long way, stays put and friction is also comparatively low. If forecasts are accurate, a spell of higher pressure is to hit the UK in the next week, which might present the opportunity for lighter lubes and some serious miles on the Teenage Dream.  Meantime, I’m allowing the Univega to become uncharacteristically filthy in preparation for this bike wash.  

Some people will argue (and I can understand their angle) that these are unnecessary. 

Car wash formulas are cheap as chips, will strip the grot, and leave a protectant barrier behind. I freely admit to being a fan, especially during winter when time is dictated by temperature and available daylight. My preference leans towards concentrates, which I can brew to taste i.e. a degreaser for a deep component clean, a winter weight grot softener, and one for lighter, generic blow-overs.  

Much the same principle when it comes to lubes, maintenance sprays, and freeing agents. A very thin spray, like GT85GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) is great for displacing moisture post wash freeing sticky cables and will even ease a reluctant seatpost. However, immobile, or semi seized stuff requires a penetrant spray. In a pinch, strong solvent-based degreasers/disc brake cleaners can also save the day.  

Technique also plays a part on the efficiency front. Taking stuck seatposts as an example, wrapping an old bubble wrap envelope (cut down) into a cone shape and secure it around the seat tube with a zip tie (having removed the seat bolt).  

Deliver a quick shot directly at the post and tap the saddle with a rubber “engineer’s” mallet. Now deliver subsequent blasts into the envelope, in a circular motion, this will see it travel inside the post steadily. Give the saddle regular firm taps, every few minutes to encourage penetration, break the seal of corrosion and ultimately, free the post. Similar technique for old-fashioned quill stems, too.     

I also keep a stockier maintenance spray for protecting fasteners from corrosion, longer-term lubrication to brake/gear cables, masking electroplated frame/fork ends, keeping locking/mechanisms mobile. Horses for courses, is my point. Talking of which, those seeking a small-wheeled magnesium e-folder might be interested in this MIRider MIRIDER 2021 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)