Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Waxing Lyrical

 The Pure Dry Lube is showing the characteristics of a traditional, petrochemical formula- the sort made from refined paraffin wax and solvent. It’s turned molten and some has migrated to the chain’s side plates, though not the cassette, which surprises me.  

Still plenty on the rollers, 225 miles in and I was expecting to purge a gungy looking beard that had accumulated along the side plates, jockey wheels etc. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it has scabbed off, during subsequent rides.   

Wax formulas, without a PTFE, or similar additives mean chains tend to succumb to light, filmy corrosion, following wet rides. Another reason why I don’t go this route with cleat hardware and others prone to getting blasted with dodgy water.  True to type, the Pure has done just that. Not an issue with the more sophisticated dry blends.  

While they will generally run cleanly, waxes  require a more disciplined approach to drivetrain cleanliness, first time round, hence the argument these have more benefit to racers-time triallists and mountain bikers (during the summer months), rather than commuters.  

One I concur with in some respects. Arguably, working bikes should be ready n’ reliable, with minimal faff. Wet lubes are an obvious choice and will certainly go the distance, but as I’ve said many times before, the side plates will need wiping regularly. Otherwise, accumulated grit/grime turning into a grinding paste, chomping through your bike’s drivetrain.  

If you’re pressed for time, one of the pour n’ go sort, such as Finish Line 1-Step Cleaner and Lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-lineMight be an easier proposition, even if these require more frequent reapplication.  Once the existing Pure dry lube is spent (coinciding with the chain, I suspect) I may well revert to the low-friction Zefal Pro-Dry Lube.https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube This incidentally appears fully compatible with the Pro Gold Prop Link Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-gold-pro-link-chain-lube if my fixed gear winter trainer’s chain is anything to go by, several weeks down the line.   

Talking of wax, I’ve treated the Univega to another high-quality waxing. Muc-Off Miricle Shine polish, this time around. It’s made using Fluro Polymer Technology and Carnauba wax. The latter is also found in high-quality furniture polish, cosmetics, and even speed boat hulls. Silicone oils are apparently employed to enhance ease of application and, it’s very quick and easy to apply.  

One coat is sufficient but if like me, you like to double up at key areas (bottom bracket shells, down tube, chainstays etc), experience suggests it prefers 24hours between coats. Rounding up this polishing theme is a guide to caring for traditional leather saddles https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/caring-for-leather-saddles . My derriere has very much bonded with the Cycles Berthoud Soulor Saddle https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cycles-berthoud-soulor-leather-sadd 

Several weeks further down the line, the Kenda Kwick Roller continue to impress with their blend of low rolling resistance, reassuring grip and of course, puncture resistance. A greasy, wet winter may reveal some limitations (specifically the puncture repelling belt, which covers the centre strip, rather than edge to edge).  

That aside; they’re doing everything I ask of them and the slightly narrower (32mm) section is probably optimal, for my fixed gear winter/trainer’s clearances too. Elsewhere, those looking for a responsive and engaging folding bike may want to take a closer look at this Tern BYB S11 Folding Bike https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tern-byb-s11-folding-bicycle   

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise. 

Continuous Improvement

Dental abscess under control, courtesy of amoxicillin, I resumed product testing and model photoshoots.  Warm enough for ice cream…

More tyre swapping followed and following an unexplained blow-out, on my everyday fixed, I’ve gone for big volume 35mm. Continental contact plus up front https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/continental-contact  and Vittoria voyager hyper behind https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vittoria-voyager-hyper-tyre . Two very different tyres, in many respects but reliable. 

While rummaging round for these (not to mention spare tubes) I resurrected these issi two triple clipless pedals. Dual sided design, high quality, buttery smooth sealed bearings, Cro-moly axles with black chrome finish.

The latter isn’t just aesthetic. Provided it’s been applied correctly, black chrome also provides much better corrosion resistance than traditional electroplate. The ability to literally step-in and go, is a definite boon, especially with a fixed transmission.  

A welcome return. Having played with Finish line 1-step cleaner and lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line     I’m also giving the Smoove universal chain lube a second chance. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/smoove-universal-chain-lube

Temperatures between 15 and 25 degrees have seen it assume a tacky, waxy state, which seems to cling to the chain. Transfers quite nicely to hands, although this is only a consideration, when tackling roadside mechanicals.

The same goes for more traditional, wet types. Either way, I’d pack a pair, or two, of disposable gloves in your bike luggage, for just these situations.

Particularly, if you commute to work, in office smarts… At the other extreme, though highly appropriate, given my Holdsworth’s “Sunny days’ plaything cum TT bike” design brief; there’s Finish line dry lube.  Oils containing PTFE are considered pretty basic-bog standard, even, although some mixes more sophisticated than others. 

This one is made with polymers, goes on wet and then cures to a dry, paste like consistency, thus attracting minimal dirt. Curing is around the twenty minute mark, rather than a few hours, which also came in handy.  Though quick flowing, its less runny than some, so provided you keep some kitchen towel hovering beneath the chain, it shouldn’t race all over the rear tyre, or kitchen lino…

They also reckon it provides “adequate wet weather performance”.  So far, it’s holding up nicely. Friction is low, although not as low as the latest generation of dry formulas, including Weldtite TF2 Ultra dry chain wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-ultra-dry-chain-wax . Talking of which, in dry conditions, 330 miles per application is the figure to beat. To date, I’ve cruised past the 120 mile mark and there’s little sign of it receding. Transfer to hands has also been in trace territory.

Critically evaluating these things (which is essential, in my opinion) it’s worth noting that a single application of chain lube can suffice, during a really arid summer. In real terms, we’re talking something stodgier but six weeks, or so isn’t out of the question with middleweight wax, or dry formulas.   

The “last word” in customisation is another hotly debated topic. Traditionally, a bespoke frame and paintwork occupied top spot, and were obvious choices. Custom stems might be another. However, I’m thinking something subtler, dare we say, easily within reach of all riders, regardless of budget.

To a lesser extent, the normalisation of semi/compact geometry frames, over the past twenty years, has greatly reduced need for bespoke frames. Small riders, or those (including myself) who are unequally proportioned, now find it easy to get an off the peg frameset and contact points that fit beautifully (albeit not perfectly).

One thing that is often overlooked, is the humble bottle cage.  However, in recent years, I’ve become increasingly endeared to the concept of side entry designs, especially those, which can be orientated to suit left, or right dominant hands.

The other main appeal is these will fit within small main triangles, so two big bottles are easily accessible on the seat and down tubes.  Some Vel SE cages have just arrived on our test bench. Be interesting to see how they compare, with something like Lezyne Flow SL.

So then, modelling commissions...The temperate, brighter weather lends itself to location shots.  These do run the risk of interruption, from passers-by but most people are very respectful and don’t intrude beyond a simple, courteous greeting.  

Photographer and model should never feel uncomfortable. I am careful to research models who approach me and encourage them to research a photographer carefully before agreeing to work with them. 

There are photographers and GWCs (Guy with camera). The former have a high level of skill, professionalism and behave ethically (There are always exceptions to this rule. Some photographers have excellent technical abilities, but are of dubious character).

Much of this can be screened out during pre-shoot approaches/communication. A two-way street. There are plenty of “models” who I would not consider working with, for various reasons.

Both parties should be clear and comfortable about the shoot. A model who doesn’t have a clear(ish) idea of what she’s looking to achieve raises red flags and I politely decline.

Similarly, I’d encourage models to look at a photographer’s site, their port-folio and ask around. People talk. References are a useful guide but shouldn’t be taken as gospel.

People tend to err on something positive as a default, for fear of reference reprisals. They may leave a lot out, which is quite telling. Repeat business/bookings are a good sign but again, gut intuition is key.    

 My site desperately needs updating. However, a “photographer” without a site or similar presence should set alarm bells ringing.  Ditto, if they can’t string a coherent paragraph and detail a shoot specification. “Oh, just bring loads of lingerie” should be a model’s cue, to close communications and look elsewhere.