Freezing filth

No, I’m not going to discuss the best ways of archiving pornography, so click away if that’s your desire and you’ve stumbled on this by mistake... December has turned very dank with freezing fog presenting some challenges. In some respects, these improve the riding experience and sharpen handling skills.  

Despite the powerful K-lite Bikepacker Pro V2 dynamo lamp K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) navigating demands greater concentration, although this, coupled with the Magicshine SeeMee LEDs and a mix of day glow and retro-reflective clothing (including the Pro-Viz 360+ gilet) keeps me conspicuous along soupy lanes. 

There have been a few moments when I’ve thought it might be time to switch the Zilent2 TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) to the 42mm Continental Nordic Spike, for a bit more bite. I’ve rediscovered some laminated jerseys, which have an operating range between –5 and +10 degrees and they are reassuringly competent at these temperatures. Since we’re on the subject, here’s our general, overview guide to dressing for winter WINTER WONDERLAND TWO (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Returning from Tuesday night’s ride, I discovered the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap sporting a very tangible icy glaze. The Kinekt stem also continues to creak when the temperature plummets and damp, greasy conditions are thrown into the mix. Curiously, this doesn’t apply to the post, which works to the same principle.   

A helmet-mounted light is also handy for picking road signs etc out in the gloom. In terms of output, I’m talking 600-800lumens. Blackburn Dayblazer 800 is up to the task, although in common with the genre, battery life is quite short in the highest settings. In this respect, I would’ve been better served by its 1100lumen sibling, at comparable output.   

These conditions have also seen me apply a quick shot of ACF50 to the dynamo contacts. The bike is also filthy within a couple of rides, so by the third, I’m needing to give it a sudsy bucket washdown.

I deliberately left it a week, to get deeply crusty and as you can see from the right-hand chainstay, slurry, mud, spent diesel and seemingly, some flung chain lube.  

These conditions had almost literally stripped the Muc Off E-Bike Ceramic wet Lube too, within 125miles, which was another surprise. I was expecting it to last a little while longer. I’ve received a batch of grot busting goodies from Weldtite and Pure ranges-bang on cue.  

I decided to give the ratty looking transmission a liberal blast of the Weldtite Jet Blast degreaser before switching to the Weldtite Bikewash for a more global blow-over. This orange formula is one designed with a thirty-second standing period before you agitate with a soft brush, then rinse off. I gave ours two helpings and then inspected the frameset. No hint of streaking, or staining, which was a welcome surprise. A high-quality powder-coated finish, such as this is incredibly durable but welcomes periodic TLC. TWO TONE MAKEOVER (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Grit and similarly abrasive stuff clinging to outer cables can still (albeit relatively slowly) make inroads into the lacquer and ultimately topcoat, if left unchecked. periodic hard-paste waxing (as you should with any other painted, lacquered, anodised or polished finish) is another good move. Matt finishes are also well-catered for these days but stick with a matt-specific product.  

Minor imperfections, such as swirling and superficial scratches can be polished out with a cutting compound. Automotive types, such as T-Cut are fine but something like Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive frame Cleaner TEST & REVIEW: CRANKALICIOUS MAYO JAUNE INTENSIVE FRAME CLEANER (sevendaycyclist.com) is a bit easier, since you can see the results in “real-time”; rather than needing to allow the product to haze, before buffing with a cloth and potentially adding subsequent coats.  

Good quality waxes lock the elements out, sheen in, and makes the bike easier to keep/clean. Bike dry, I also treated it to a helping of the Pure Protectant Spray. This is a water-based polish cum waxy barrier, which is best applied to the frameset and components via a clean, dry cloth.  

This maximises product life, while avoiding unwanted overspray to disc rotors/braking surfaces, saddles etc. Aside from nourishing the paintwork, it's also brought rubberised/composite surfaces back to their original lustre. Last, but not least, a quick shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to the cables, cleat mechanisms, fasteners and bushings/linkages to drive remaining moisture out and a lubricant layer behind.      

 

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise.