No, not that sort, although given
the political climate, it’s not something I should be flippant about. Having
spotted a suitable Shimano 6v 3w unit for the proverbial on a well-known
auction site and secured a deal, you can imagine the profound sense of
deflation upon discovering it was a thru axle, not quick release version.
Then came the lightbulb moment...Converter kits must be available... A few
keystrokes into Google later and several 15-10mm and 12-10mm converters popped
up.
Chinese patterns in keeping with
patterns per se, ran the risk of them being an imperfect fit. I found a mid-point
unit that had received some very positive reviews, so went for it rather than
risking something joining the spares bin and ultimately, money wasted.
Meantime, I left the hub and Halo White Line hoop with Mick Madgett so he could
work his magic. Another small but significant job off my list before the
nights began drawing in.
Mick finished the build in a few
days. I fitted rim tape, added a little Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint
Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing to the converter and slid it into the
hub shell-reassuringly snug but should release without too much difficulty.
There are, predictably, various schools of thought when it comes to lubricating
these. Some advocate copper paste, which can be very effective, and some folks
apply this to freehub bodies. However, it can also become a gritty mess after a
while, especially during a wet, slimy winter.
Others suggest a silicone-based
product and I had considered using this Muc-Off MUC OFF
SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing but was a little concerned I
might forget to replenish and given a long, wet spell, things might get right
royally stuck. Galvanic corrosion can also strike quick release skewers, if
they’re not lightly regreased. I’d say quarterly on bikes in hard service
(mountain, gravel, commuters, or training bikes) yearly on a sunny day’s
plaything.
Nexus and Alfine are the current
dyno hub models within the Shimano range- XT and Ultegra are still available,
but not current. Again, it is important to go for the 6V 3W models if you're
looking for a good spread of useable light. There are some XT units that are
only 1.5w, providing very limited output, although these are frequently offered
at a considerable discount.
I like discount but not lighting
of the glimmer variety. I'd looked at Novatec but wasn't overly impressed
with their resistance and didn’t want to go too cheap either-it’s not a bargain
if it doesn’t deliver what you require of it. DT Swiss also produce a
competitively priced hub dynamo in partnership with Shutter Precision.
Elsewhere, I’ve been racking up
the miles with these Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes. Our 44 tip the scales at 674g,
slightly heavier than my Shimano RX6 go-tos and coming from the Boa setup,
Sidi’s Firmor and Tecno 3 closure systems were a little counter intuitive for
the first couple of outings, but that’s a minor point and no issues since. The
soles are supportive and offer excellent power transfer but are similarly
compliant when walking or indeed shouldering the bike through more technical
sections. Bob Elliot & Co sent me
these FLR MXT Vibram.
As the name suggests, these are
an mtb design employing an aggressive Vibram outer sole, which is designed for
riding and walking in more challenging contexts. Interestingly, the upper is
made from a water-resistant faux leather, with a reinforced genuine leather toe.
Then of course, there’s FLR’s take on the Boa dial. They certainly feel very rugged, although
that is also reflected in their weight-935g for the 44.
Though I still maintain the Peaty’s
Lik Lube All Weather is best suited to spring, summer and early autumn, it’s
proving my go-to lube for those times when the weather’s predominantly dry but there’s
the risk off the odd wet ride. Conditions where most “barely there” dry, or wax
formulas are all too readily washed away but heavier formulas can attract
grime.
There’s enough for one, maybe two
chains in the bottle, but I’m reflecting upon its replacement. There are some
obvious choices. Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS
LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing Blub Ceramic Blub Ceramic
Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing is
another, although the latter is best suited to bikes in daily service, since if
it will need re-applying, should the bike be unused for 48 hours.
Weldtite TF2 All Weather TF2
PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing is a slightly cruder
middleweight and attracts more dirt but a little goers surprisingly far and it's
inexpensive. The cleaner, the better during this primarily dry period-
especially when I’m venturing beyond asphalt. Silca Super-Secret Chain Coating Silca
Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing is another option- it's
clean and quick curing ….
