Reflections & Relentless Rain

 Water, Water Everywhere but Not a Drop to Drink. Flooding has been this winter’s narrative and the lack of flood defences here in the UK would seem to be making matters worse. However, the less extreme ends of this are great for assessing the capabilities (and sometimes shortcomings) of everything.  

From waterproof, breathable clothing to mudguards, waxes, detailing products, bike washes, lubes, and of course, electricals. Leatt has sent me their Endurance 2.0 Jacket, which is aimed at cross-county mtb/gravel audiences but in my experience, makes the transition to general road duties very well.   

The jacket is a “super lightweight” model that packs down very compactly. Leatt reckons inside a jersey pocket, and I’d broadly agree, depending on how large your pocket is. No issues with the old-school, deep terrace type.  It’s a Nylon/Elastane “rip-stop” weave that forgoes a laminate for improved ventilation and features a DWR (Durable water repelling) windproof and stain-resistant outer shell. Knitted panels also feature knitted paneling in the back and panels for improved ventilation. 

The former also features a poacher’s type rear pocket. Me being me, I would’ve preferred a breast pocket too, for a compact camera etc. However, it’s a feathery, racy, close-fitting cut for minimal flutter and this second pocket with cargo would pull, thus impairing the fit etc. That shouldn’t be read as only being suitable for summer weight/long-sleeved jerseys. I’m pleased to report ours is roomy enough for the winter-weight jersey cum jacket genre too.   

I’ve gone for the blue but black and rust are the alternatives. The zipper is also waterproof, although I would’ve preferred a bigger tag, even allowing for my not-so-dextrous dominant index finger. I’ve done my usual, cable tie zipper tag extension, solving said problem.   

Packable garments are arguably the most practical options for changeable conditions, although I’m still a big fan of the 2.5-layer laminate type when it’s predictably wet and indeed cold. Talking of which, I also received some more lubes.  

This time from Blub’s range- a ceramic and a wax, which are cleaner running preps designed for drier weather. Obviously, it's most important to test them in the conditions for which they were designed. However, I am also interested to see how products like lubes behave in wider contexts. After all, conditions can change throughout a ride. How practical is a lube to reapply? Does it wash away, how good are its corrosion-inhibiting properties? How much grime does it attract etc.   

One of the very appealing features of these two is their rapid curing times- allegedly two minutes apiece for both, which is on paper as practical as you’re likely to find. Seems a little longer in practice. That said; I’ve been applying in 2/3 degrees. Yes, I know there are still pour-and-go formulas but even after you’ve drizzled them into the chain’s inner sanctum, you’re still needing to wipe away the excess before hopping on and scooting off.  I’ve left the fixed and Ursula’s curing for a day, primarily since I applied having purged their drivetrains and given both bikes a seriously good sudsy bucket wash and wax.  

One thing led to another, and I whipped this 28mm Schwalbe One 365 up front.  All weather/ al conditions tyres are a big ask and to some extent, there’s always an element of compromise somewhere. In my experience, with lighter, swifter tyres it tends to be puncture resistance.  

The Schwalbe weigh in at 332g apiece, less than half the weight of The Pirelli Angel ST Urban Tyres Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and indeed, the super dependable Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . However, these Vittoria Rubino Pro Control Graphene 2.0 Vittoria Rubino Pro Control Graphene 2.0 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are a much closer comparator and 5g apiece heavier. Will be interesting to see how the Schwalbe perform across the board and compared with the Vittoria and to a lesser degree, the Maxxis Refuse 700x32c 60 TPI TR Folding Maxx Shield Tyres MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I’ve also been further contemplating the benefits of hub transmissions and bikes built around them. Genesis Day One employs a double-butted aluminium alloy frame and Cro-moly fork and is built around the humble 8-speed Nexus hub. Cable-operated discs might lack the low maintenance bite of hydraulics but are easy to service and repair.  

Budget but a practical workhorse cum commuter. Nice enough but not so pretty you’re petrified by the thought of tethering it to hardy street furniture with a decently stout “fuck off” lock. Long story short, I’d be interested in racking up some proper miles on one.  

Another enticement, given the flooding and generally adverse conditions are hub dynamos that can be serviced “in the field”.  By that, I really mean models that can be stripped, bearings replaced and regreased without going back to the factory. Interestingly one side of the Alfine hub dynamo Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) can be accessed and the bearings replaced.  

While the SP series of hubs have been impressive despite some extreme and persistently wet conditions, I’m tempted by the KASI FS DynaCoil CL/D6 units which are designed to be opened using a 36mm headset spanner. I’ve had 20,000 miles plus from the PD8 before the sealed bearings got sloppy. However, given the miles Ursula and fixed gear trainer rack up in foul weather, the ability to strip, clean, and rebuild the hub, without dismantling the wheel is a definite draw.   

Stoppage... AKA Urgent Refurbs

Some lovely rotors and pads arrived from Disco Brakes DiscoBrakes.Com :: Shop :: DiscoBrakes Shop . I wasted no time in removing the long serving and dependable TRP rotor and popping the 160mm Vibe in situ. Cursory inspection suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP SLC callipers' organic pads were still passable, so SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel back in situ. Much to my dismay the next morning, stopping prowess had all but vanished...  

Returning home, closer examination revealed muck and accumulated grime were giving a false impression of ample pad material. These had been in situ for 10 months and judging by their condition, should’ve been replaced after 6, maybe 7. The generally accepted rule is replace once the pad has 1.5mm (about 0.03 in) material left. A quick word about pad material, while I’m here. Organic pads (sometimes referred to as resin pads) have a lot in their favour.  

Commonly made from a blend of Kevlar, Rubber, and Silica with a resin bonding, they are quiet, offer sharper braking, and bed in easily. The compound offers excellent insulation against heat build-up, too, although on the flip side, are more predisposed to fade. A minor, if not moot point on a lightweight bike and rider. However, a definite consideration on a touring tandem, or recumbent for example. They also wear relatively quickly in harsh, or mucky conditions, so might not be the best options for winter riding, especially off-road.  

Now, I had a couple of organic Spyre SLC pads in stock, but Disco Brakes were gracious enough to send me some sintered and semi-metallic pads for testing.  Sintered, sometimes referred to as metallic pads are made from bonded metal particles.  In theory, these will last longer than their organic counterparts, especially in wet, muddy, and gritty contexts. They are less prone to fade, so will work better on those long descents.  

However, compared with organic types they need to “warm up” before reaching optimal “bite”, take longer to bed in, and can be noisier. Now, though not relevant on a cable-operated setup, such as mine, the metal components will transfer greater heat to hydraulic fluids, than an organic variant.  

Then again, they’re much less prone to glazing over and last longer. I’ve gone the semi-sintered route. On paper, these should be the best of both worlds, hence my decision. As the name might imply, these are a mix of organic and metal, so take less time to reach performance, shouldn’t fade on long descents, and last better than organic pads in grotty contexts. I’ve never had any problems with pad glaze, but this can be an issue with organic and semi-metallic models, so we’ll see.  

I stripped and cleaned the calipers since these were coated in oily contaminant and the inner cable was fraying. Having stripped back the Souma leather bar tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), to get better access to the outer cable and thus route the inner wire through more effectively, I noticed a lot of slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake Lever CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and its internal resin cable tunneling was also showing signs of wear.

I’d come this far... I exchanged the Cane Creek SC5 for this silver Tektro RL520, which is also designed with V and cable-operated discs in mind. (I’d originally earmarked it for Ursula’s disc brake upgrade but discovered the RL340 would work just fine.)  

Next came a fresh stainless steel inner wire (the last in my stock, prompting a further order).

Cables, pads, and chains are all things likely to fail at the least convenient moment, so well worth having a couple in hand. Overhaul complete and braking is better than ever. It also prompted a more thorough Inspection of Ursula’s SLC caliper and pads.  

No such issues but a reminder for more regular investigation and pad replacement. I’ve fitted the other six-bolt Disco Brakes Rotor to the SD8 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel though since it was superior to the serviceable auction site special. Chain and other drivetrain components were also in very rude health, which is a welcome surprise. I’m up to 1600miles on the KMC and on this trajectory, reckon I’ll get to 2,200 before replacements’ prudent. Mick Madgett finished re-building my SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel too, so looking set for the winter, now.