Conversion Therapy AKA The Bargain that Nearly Wasn't...

 

No, not that sort, although given the political climate, it’s not something I should be flippant about. Having spotted a suitable Shimano 6v 3w unit for the proverbial on a well-known auction site and secured a deal, you can imagine the profound sense of deflation upon discovering it was a thru axle, not quick release version.  Then came the lightbulb moment...Converter kits must be available... A few keystrokes into Google later and several 15-10mm and 12-10mm converters popped up.

Chinese patterns in keeping with patterns per se, ran the risk of them being an imperfect fit. I found a mid-point unit that had received some very positive reviews, so went for it rather than risking something joining the spares bin and ultimately, money wasted. Meantime, I left the hub and Halo White Line hoop with Mick Madgett so he could work his magic.  Another small but significant job off my list before the nights began drawing in.  

Mick finished the build in a few days. I fitted rim tape, added a little Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing to the converter and slid it into the hub shell-reassuringly snug but should release without too much difficulty. There are, predictably, various schools of thought when it comes to lubricating these. Some advocate copper paste, which can be very effective, and some folks apply this to freehub bodies. However, it can also become a gritty mess after a while, especially during a wet, slimy winter.

Others suggest a silicone-based product and I had considered using this Muc-Off MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing but was a little concerned I might forget to replenish and given a long, wet spell, things might get right royally stuck. Galvanic corrosion can also strike quick release skewers, if they’re not lightly regreased. I’d say quarterly on bikes in hard service (mountain, gravel, commuters, or training bikes) yearly on a sunny day’s plaything.         

Nexus and Alfine are the current dyno hub models within the Shimano range- XT and Ultegra are still available, but not current. Again, it is important to go for the 6V 3W models if you're looking for a good spread of useable light. There are some XT units that are only 1.5w, providing very limited output, although these are frequently offered at a considerable discount.

I like discount but not lighting of the glimmer variety.  I'd looked at Novatec but wasn't overly impressed with their resistance and didn’t want to go too cheap either-it’s not a bargain if it doesn’t deliver what you require of it. DT Swiss also produce a competitively priced hub dynamo in partnership with Shutter Precision.

Elsewhere, I’ve been racking up the miles with these Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes. Our 44 tip the scales at 674g, slightly heavier than my Shimano RX6 go-tos and coming from the Boa setup, Sidi’s Firmor and Tecno 3 closure systems were a little counter intuitive for the first couple of outings, but that’s a minor point and no issues since. The soles are supportive and offer excellent power transfer but are similarly compliant when walking or indeed shouldering the bike through more technical sections.  Bob Elliot & Co sent me these FLR MXT Vibram.

As the name suggests, these are an mtb design employing an aggressive Vibram outer sole, which is designed for riding and walking in more challenging contexts. Interestingly, the upper is made from a water-resistant faux leather, with a reinforced genuine leather toe. Then of course, there’s FLR’s take on the Boa dial.  They certainly feel very rugged, although that is also reflected in their weight-935g for the 44.

Though I still maintain the Peaty’s Lik Lube All Weather is best suited to spring, summer and early autumn, it’s proving my go-to lube for those times when the weather’s predominantly dry but there’s the risk off the odd wet ride. Conditions where most “barely there” dry, or wax formulas are all too readily washed away but heavier formulas can attract grime.

There’s enough for one, maybe two chains in the bottle, but I’m reflecting upon its replacement. There are some obvious choices. Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing Blub Ceramic Blub Ceramic Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing  is another, although the latter is best suited to bikes in daily service, since if it will need re-applying, should the bike be unused for 48 hours.

Weldtite TF2 All Weather TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing is a slightly cruder middleweight and attracts more dirt but a little goers surprisingly far and it's inexpensive. The cleaner, the better during this primarily dry period- especially when I’m venturing beyond asphalt.  Silca Super-Secret Chain Coating Silca Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing is another option- it's clean and quick curing ….

 

Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Shot Bearings & Long Walks Home

 

 

No sooner had I got everything as I'd wanted, the SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD dynohub bearings got the grumbles- I couldn't christen the sound mid ride but having gently spun the wheel on my return, some grumbling and play was tangible. I love the SP units in terms of value and performance, but the need for factory rebuilds every few years (typically 20,000 miles) is inconvenient, especially since it means tearing the wheel apart. I've decided I'll switch the Ryde/ Nexus wheel from Denise longer term and get a Shimano Ultegra built into another Ryde Sputnik hoop. For now, I’ve fitted the Halo/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing to Muffin, so all good.  

A straightforward job, until I discovered my Cyclo Cassette remover had gone AWOL. I wasted no time in ordering a replacement, but knew the Cyclo tool couldn’t be far away. True to form, it emerged the following evening, but by then, I’d also ordered a pattern replacement. However, being as these things are inexpensive, it’ll come in handy-I’ll store it safely away in my cantilever toolbox.

Otherwise, Muffin and I are bonding very nicely. The bigger head and down tubes seem to offer greater stiffness and improved power when accelerating and indeed, climbing, without trading any of steel’s trademark compliant zing. Warmer days and lighter evenings have allowed me to enjoy a different riding pattern, dare I say perspective, not only when it comes to testing products but winding down from the wider world, contemplating and compartmentalising other things.

A quick 15 miles confirmed all was sorted and another thing off my list. It also presented an opportunity to get some miles in on Denise with the Leatt SPD pedals. At least this was the idea. 10 miles into our first outing, I succumbed to another rear flat and the spare tubes also blew their last-weakened seams, in case you were curious.  Looking closely, I concluded that the rim tape was beginning to slip, this exposing the spoke head, causing a pinch flat. There were two by the point I’d concluded the rim tape was to blame. I decided to go for tubeless rim tape, since I’d gone this route before with Ursula, following a spate of flats.

Being thicker and adhesive, there’s little chance of a spoke-induced hiss. While awaiting delivery, I decided I needed to switch bars and replace a cable. I was due to give the stem bolts a re-greasing, but before I knew it, had switched Denise to the WTB Mountain Road Drop Bar. This also necessitated a longer outer housing for the front brake, and I also noted some fraying of the inner wire, so replaced while I wasn’t going to be using the bike. Though I’d expected the Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape to be sufficiently long, the WTB drops have more flare than the Soma they replace, so a slight gamble. One that paid off on this occasion.      

As a side note, the Leatt are Shimano compatible, although the entry and release lacked the same finesse with the XT and M540, which came as a slight culture shock at the close of our first outing aboard Muffin. Continuing the gravel narrative, I've been sent these full finger Lomo Mountain bike gloves, which are available in two colourways and, in the tradition of Lomo, appears phenomenally good value for money.    

 

Rides have always helped when it comes to reflection and putting issues into perspective.  The sense of leaving everything behind. Exam stress, broken relationships, crap jobs, difficult housemates, relationships etc. Richard Ballantine reflected on this construct within his books- difficult people, neighbours and anything else that impairs one’s sense of equilibrium and well-being.

I’m very adept at dealing with difficult people and situations professionally but will not invite anyone into my world who doesn’t bring a sense of positive, genuine peace.  I’ve always been a gang of one. I certainly don’t shun people, but I don’t collect them, suffer fools gladly, nor am I prepared to go through the motions to fit in. Despite this, I was surprisingly “put out” at being blanked by a man who rides a carbon fibre Bianchi in these parts. I don’t expect much- a simple nod in acknowledgement-from one human to another…Go figure.     

Timely Turnaround

 

Winston Vaz was able to start Ursula’s minor repairs and modernisation quicker than I was expecting. Transpired he was awaiting some components for a custom build, so unable to continue with this, he turned his attentions to Ursula. Having given the frame thorough inspection, he confirmed my suspicions about some hairline damage. This was around the seat collar but easily arrested by brazing a subtle reinforcing gusset. Another key point was retrofitting a rear disc brake mount and a brace. Disc brakes place greater strain, so some reinforcement is advisable, especially frames of this era.  

We also agreed on adding another cable guide for a good, clean cable run. There’s a reason skilled people say something and when I sense concern, or a desire to do something a certain way, I take heed. Winston seemed relieved that I wasn’t looking to cut corners. Doing so is false economy. These additions were straightforward, and Ursula was otherwise structurally sound.  

I suspected everything else was fine but asked Winston to check the threads and perform simple/minor repair without further reference to me. The following week, Ursula was ready for the blast cabinet. I’d been asked for a choice of three colours in case his powder coater didn’t have my first choice. This time round, it was squirrel grey (RAL 7000) Pale Green (RAL6027 seen here on this Dave Russell) and finally, Traffic Red (RAL3020).  

I wanted a tasteful, subtle colour that was also easily re-touched, should need arise. Winston called and said his finisher only had RAL7000 in a matt effect. Mario could apply a clear lacquer stove topcoat, which would be an acceptable solution, but a gloss powder coat was my preferred route. Therefore, I requested the next closest shade of grey.  

I continued to organise Ursula’s components and having spotted a new Stronglight aheadset at very tempting price, from a genuine source, indulged. Sure, I’ll keep the existing unit, possibly for spares but a good two years down the line, I’ll start afresh, rather than find myself stripping and replacing components a few months hence.  

Fearing I might’ve mislaid the STX front mech’s clamp bolt, I nipped over to Mick Madgett and bought a compatible fastener for the princely sum of a pound. Mick said 50p, but frankly, a good bike shop is worth their weight in gold, and I don’t mind pitching in a little more for their support.  

The nights were beginning to draw in very slightly and I’ve been getting as many miles in as possible with both pairs of Cycology Gloves, although the 8 days in particular, since summer is slowly announcing its subtle swansong. I’ve been impressed by the palm’s grip and the padding’s ability to diffuse vibration and generally provide comfort over longer distances.  

I’d also received these Madison Flux Performance Mitts and their Flux Waterproof trail Gloves. Staying with the waterproof theme, I’d also expressed an interest in testing Shimano MW7 booties to see how much better they’d perform, compared with the very competent MW5 I’d tested last winter Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Elsewhere, having mounted the Magicshine EVO 1700, I began contemplating moving the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp beneath the bars for sleeker effect. Doing so wouldn’t affect the beam pattern and moreover, dazzle other road users, but may preclude some designs, or sizes of bar bag.  

Talking of bar bags, here’s Steve’s review of this Oxford T8 Handlebar bag & QR BracketOxford T8 Handlebar Bag and QR Bracket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  I unplugged the cable and reached for the 4mm Allen key and switched everything round, torquing down to 3nm. Much happier with the aesthetic, although I’m now left with some added cable. Not an issue per se, not easily snagged, but I may prune a little when time allows.  

I like dedicated, fixed gear tools. Nothing worse than flatting in the arse end of nowhere, only to find you’ve not got a 15mm to tackle the track nuts. I used to carry a box/dumbbell spanner in the tool bag for tackling solid axles and other old school fasteners. They’d certainly get me out of a jam and were nicer to use than the pressed “giveaway” models (so called as they were given away with new bikes, Raleigh in particular).  

I remain very fond of the Pedro's Trixie, a 7-function design hailing from 2009. Mine has a matt black finish but I see black and silver chrome have joined the lineup.  At 18.7cm long and 5mm thick, there’s enough oomph and knuckle clearance. The latest version features 4 and 5mm hex, 8,9, 10 and 15mm box wrenches, lock ring spanner and bottle opener.  

For all its charms, I’d still be carrying another folding multi-tool for tackling recessed Allen and Torx fasteners. Same goes for this similarly well engineered Park SS-15. Tipping the scales at 159g, the SS prefix denotes single speed and the 15, 15mm. On the face of things, the Park is less comprehensive, but it also features an open 15mm end for pedals, a bottle opener and a tyre lever.  

It’s also quite a bit cheaper (£20.99 rrp against £34.99) which means there’s money for a budget multi-tool and basic resin tyre levers to go with the Park. Aside from 15mm single speed and fixed builds, the Park is also compatible with Alfine. There’s some suggestion the Park is designed with workshop and roadside duties in mind. I really appreciate the Pedro’s for roadside rescues but prefer to use a longer handled design for workshop duties. Time and testing will tell whether the Park will become my go-to...Concluding with tooling, here’s my review of the Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)