Curly Bars & Fat Tyres

 

Hybrid certainly applies in the context of Ursula and drop bar mountain bikes have been around since the mid-1980s. There is a solid argument, (even if you don’t necessarily agree with it) that gravel bikes are in fact hybrids of road and mountain bikes. I lean toward them being the love child of cyclo cross and rigid 90s cross country mountain bike. The trend for converting 90s cross country mountain bikes to drop bar gravel machines is perhaps predictable. Something I can certainly get my head around.

Afterall, Denise is a late 80’s mountain bike frameset modified to run 700c wheels. That said, like most trends, I’m of the opinion there should be nuance and not a cult or heard like wholesale movement. Early 90s cross country mountain bikes were very capable and engaging machines that handled beautifully.

My 1990 Kona Lava Dome was a case in point. There was a genre called hybrid, which featured flat bars and slowly died a death as the 90s wore on. The higher end models boasted Reynolds 531 and similar grade tubesets- closer to a flat bar tourer with bigger tyres. However, the majority tended to be marketed as commuter steeds with an upright stance, wider saddles lower grade tubing and components.

Mudguard and rack mounts and with clearance for 35-38mm meant they made serviceable town hacks and utility bikes.  I was quite drawn to the Orbit Frontier, which was a drop bar 531 tubed rough stuff tourer with clearance for 700x38c tyres inc full length mudguards.

Marketed as the best of both worlds, the press felt it was too compromised, master of none, essentially. Top-mounted thumb rather than bar end shifters were an example of this and a really strange choice for a drop bar small scale production build. The most commonly remembered frontier was their 531 tubed mountain bike dressed in Shimano XT. Quality control was problematic during this period but turned around under Lee Cooper’s supervision.  

Muddy Fox Trailblazer was another curious beast- drop bar mountain bike with bar cons and 26x1.75 tyres. Similar theme to Specialized’s Rock Combo, but a little earlier- I spotted it in “Bicycle” magazine back in March 1987.  Both machines were well ahead of their time and in my view, the epitome of ATB (All Terrain Bikes). Neither I would pay classic prices for, mind. Sentimental I may be, stupid I am not.

Back to 2026 and I’ve reached my conclusions about the Sidi Algor and decided to try a different front mudguard on Ursula. I’d been buying in some consumables and spotted a reasonably sturdy reinforced plastic model, which would also mean free postage, so took a punt. I’ wanted something with more coverage than the existing shorty fender- I’d reversed it to see if there was any improvement in mud protection. No, is the answer, but a worthwhile experiment.

Rain, mud and slurry had given way to icy winds and tumbling temperatures over Christmas-perfect for testing winter gloves and similar attire. The gritters had been out, prompting the switch to Denise and the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres, providing dependable grip and feedback as I hustled through the lanes.  Curiosity and the urge to experiment got the better of me, so I raised the bars slightly and whipped some other lights atop the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount. 

Not because the Gaciron Cetus could ever be described as lacking, but I hadn't charged it in a while and didn't want to be plunged into darkness several miles from home.  I had the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing to hand and was relieved to discover the mount took its 200plus grams in its stride, same story when I substituted for the Magicshine Ray2600, which was a bigger surprise.  Arguably the best fit was this See Sense Beam, which weighs a feathery 59g. 

While dynamos are bright and highly dependable, I like a powerful backup, just in case- comes in handy should I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical by the roadside. Similarly, while the Exposure Revo is a beautifully made and relatively powerful lamp, 800lumens is a little underpowered for backroad blasting, adding another 500 or so makes a very tangible difference, while sipping reserves-at least on a more powerful torch-type rechargeable system.

Similarly, I usually carry a spare rear light-failures are infrequent but do happen and are at best inconvenient.  One old favourite is Nite Rider's Cherry Bomb- the 100-lumen version. Aside from being very bright, it was fuelled by AAA cells and enjoyed a seriously generous run times and would withstand being frozen- I left one submerged on a very chill winter day and it passed the ice bucket challenge with flying colours. 

Topeak Redlite Aero Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing and its Mega stablemate are two further good examples of lights with AAA options. The former is only two modes- steady and flashing. Arguably all we strictly need, but sometimes a choice of flashing modes is nice, especially if navigating city centres with competing illuminations, or when fitted to a trailer, or tagalong.

 

The mystery of the dormant dynamo

 

Once upon a time, dynamos needed voltage regulators to prevent bulb implosion that was a very common issue when tandems and long descents. I was surprised to discover a pronounced lack of illumination from the long serving Exposure Revo lamp. Thankfully,  the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing was playing backing singer. Most dynamos are very reliable these days, but we only need a snagged cable, or some other issue to plunge us into darkness, possibly many miles from home. For these reasons, I typically have a secondary high power rechargeable torch type along for the ride.

The mount remains permanently attached to the bars, the light typically secreted inside a bar bag, or similar bike mounted luggage. Having returned, I pondered the possibilities. The lamp itself, though thirteen years old and exposed to the worst the lanes and trails could throw at it, very well sealed from the elements and had never been subjected to jet washing, or similar abuse.

The cabling also seemed fine. No obvious signs of wear, or damage.  That left the Shutter Precision SL9 hub. The terminal block, spring contact possibly? The hubs themselves are well sealed and turn on cartridge bearings that in my experience, run for 20,000 miles before getting the grumbles.

Before getting deep in the diagnostics, the easiest thing was to switch back to the Shimano Ultegra unit. I’d already decided that I was using the Sl9 wheel as a second/spare so would not get the hub’s electricals repaired, simply run it as a traditional front wheel. Repair would mean stripping the wheel and returning to Shutter Precision in Taiwan.

I’m fond of these units, but I’ve found Shimano are more cost-effective long term. Not least since basic servicing, such as bearing replacement is within the means of home mechanics and decent shops.  The switch coincided with returning from a mucky ride to discover a slow flat caused by a tiny sharp, most likely a hedge clipping.

Tube switched, pin hole patched and a deep, sudsy bucket clean followed. Switching wheels and giving the wheel a good spin, I was relieved to find the Revo lamp coming to life. While the Weldtite All Weather lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing was turning a little filmy, it was holding on, so I decided against topping up, not least since the KMC X10 was coming to the end of its life.

Plan was to run the chain out, switch and either apply some more All Weather, or something similar, should it land on the test bench.  Having washed, waxed and dried Denise, I’ve decided to switch to Muffin, since the weather is progressively wetter. Mudguards and a simple drivetrain being the obvious practicalities, although the geometry and stout buxom rubber makes for engaging, yet predictable handling, not to mention a magic carpet ride. Perfect for general riding, these characteristics come into their own during the darker, slippery months.  The M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar Tape M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar | cycling-not-racing is still impressing with its damping and reliable all-weather grip. Then of course, I want to get some more miles in with the Sigma Buster1600 and RL150 lights. Steve’s been impressed with its 800lumen sibling Sigma Buster 800 and RL150 Light Set | cycling-not-racing  

Autumn well underway and another year wiser, I’ve decided to drop Muffin’s gearing slightly, no sense straining the knees, or other joints- another Arundel fixed sprocket since these seem accurately machined, well finished and modestly priced. I’ve gone the electroplated, rather than stainless route on the basis of price, although the latter might repay the investment on salty winter roads.  

I’ve been pondering suitable substitution for the Silca Nastro Piloti Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing which performs really well on the tarmac and excellent connection with the bars-a good bet for long steady audax miles, possibly winter training too, although in  my view, a bit pricey for the latter. However, given I like to play in the dirt regularly, damping was also a priority.

Enter this Ergon Orthocell. Apparently, it’s made from a medical grade material that’s also employed in their saddles. This is designed to distribute pressure evenly, thus insulate against intrusive vibration, and ultimately fatigue in the hands, arms and shoulders. In common with others, an anti-slip coating to counteract sweaty hands and torrential rains. Whether these qualities also improve grip and control when the temperatures tank, remains to be seen.