Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise. 

Melting, Musing, Blasting & Stopping

Not surprising perhaps, since the UK has recently experienced, the hottest day on record. It was a stonking hot week, at least here in the South East. Even nocturnal rides, testing lights, were close and muggy-hovering around 24 degrees. 

Day rides, saw emulsion and wax types chain lubes melt. Literally coating the drive-side crank arms in a sticky residual layer. On that quickly contaminated shoes. Thankfully, these were easily dismissed with a gentle solvent. 

Beeswax furniture polish for the crank arms, leather conditioner cum food, the shoes. Internal frame preserves have also turned very fluid, but not to the stage where its gushing from the frames "breathe holes" , engulfing the chainstays/hub etc. 

I can function well enough in these temperatures, although maintaining a steady 20 mph for 20 miles, can be challenging-even with sufficient fluids. Designs like the back bottle (link & photograph) come into their own.  Though there are some minor downsides, I've come to really appreciate the Relaj Shape Bottle's design too.

Popping ice (or pour 70% full of water, then freeze) and placing in a jersey pocket brings welcome, cooling relief. I'm also pleased to report the Funkier Force Pro Bib shorts https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/funkier-force-pro-bib-shorts  have certainly cut it in the comfortt stakes. They also offer plenty of bang, for very modest buck, in other respects, too.  

For the most part, I'm resistant to testing new shorts and saddles, in case both are mutually incompatible. Far fairer to run an old favourite and see how things measure up. Hygiene aside; I have alternated between different bibs to see how the saddle covering behaves. 

Am I able to make minute adjustments, am I surfing around, or do I feel like I'm perched atop a sheet of flypaper? The first scenario, is my particular sweet spot. Now, I would appear to have braking on the brain, at the minute, at least given my last few entries. 

Only because the more powerful and controlled my machine's stopping prowess, the faster I can go (to a point and within reason). Some would argue (with some justification) that a disc setup is overkill on a fixed. True, a well-honed cantilever will haul me and 20 kilos of payload to a controlled, predictable halt-even along a 1in 7 pushing 30 odd mph. 

However, on a four season's machine, one running a single stopper, disc is an obvious choice. I have run Tektro Spyre on mine, for several years now. Its a twin piston design, widely regarded the benchmark for cable operated systems. A sentiment I'd agree with. 

However, time and technology marches on. I've been keen to try Clarks CMD22 Dual Piston disc brake and Rever MCX1 systems to see if they have an edge. Dual piston designs have several advantages over single pistons, such  as Avid BB5 and BB7. 

Firstly, both pistons move an equal distance, thus connect evenly with the disc rotor. Therefore, even wear of both consumables, superior modulation and feel. They're also markedly easier to setup and maintain. There are some folks who "advocate" consigning the humble cable-operated disc, to the vaults of history. 

Modern hydraulic systems win hands down, in competitive contexts. No need to dial in the pads to compensate for wear, open systems do that automatically. 

Indeed, provided you don't kink/damage the hose, stick to the correct fluid and observe service intervals, they're fit n' forget. A few months back, I was lusting after TRP Hylex but couldn't secure a set, at the right price. 

I've no doubt they'd convert me within a matter of lever actuations, mind. Such lust has been tempered by the arrival of these Clarks CM22, which I shall whip aboard and dial in very shortly.  

160mm rotors have been my default, as they have an advantage in the stopping stakes (although some suggest 140mm, are fine for 'cyclo cross). 

Never be tempted to skimp of cable quality, mind. These are also central to getting the very best from them. I'd suggest compressionless, and decent cutters. Something like these Jagwire Pro Road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit and Super B TBWC30 Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters

Not that I was going to go very far with a flat tyre. To my surprise, my working fixed's ultra dependable Schwalbe Marathon GT, had succumbed to a flat. No sign of anything sharp in the casing, so I fed it a tube from my tube rack, along with another spare for the SQR Tour. 

Wheel, home, chain correctly tensioned and we're ready to let the good tmes roll again.   I will probably switch to the Vee Rubber Zilent Tyre, once the Maraton GT comes of pensionable age. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-tyre   It'll save a few grams too, especially the 35mm (as big as said bike's rear triangle will entertain). 

Several hundred miles in, I'm not surprised the fixed's SRAM has negligible wear. As a rough n' ready, even through a harsh winter, I can  expect 3,000 miles from a fixed chain. Nonetheless, and regardless of your chain types, its good to check their health frequently. 

Replacing chains by, or before wear hits 0.8mm, saves a lot of unnecessary erosion, and ultimately, expense replacing rings, cassettes and other components. I prefer the digital models but simple, nickle plated anaologue models give change from £5.   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torque-chain-checker