Not surprising perhaps, since the UK has recently experienced, the hottest day on record. It was a stonking hot week, at least here in the South East. Even nocturnal rides, testing lights, were close and muggy-hovering around 24 degrees.
Day rides, saw emulsion and wax types chain lubes melt. Literally coating the drive-side crank arms in a sticky residual layer. On that quickly contaminated shoes. Thankfully, these were easily dismissed with a gentle solvent.
Beeswax furniture polish for the crank arms, leather conditioner cum food, the shoes. Internal frame preserves have also turned very fluid, but not to the stage where its gushing from the frames "breathe holes" , engulfing the chainstays/hub etc.
I can function well enough in these temperatures, although maintaining a steady 20 mph for 20 miles, can be challenging-even with sufficient fluids. Designs like the back bottle (link & photograph) come into their own. Though there are some minor downsides, I've come to really appreciate the Relaj Shape Bottle's design too.
Popping ice (or pour 70% full of water, then freeze) and placing in a jersey pocket brings welcome, cooling relief. I'm also pleased to report the Funkier Force Pro Bib shorts https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/funkier-force-pro-bib-shorts have certainly cut it in the comfortt stakes. They also offer plenty of bang, for very modest buck, in other respects, too.
For the most part, I'm resistant to testing new shorts and saddles, in case both are mutually incompatible. Far fairer to run an old favourite and see how things measure up. Hygiene aside; I have alternated between different bibs to see how the saddle covering behaves.
Am I able to make minute adjustments, am I surfing around, or do I feel like I'm perched atop a sheet of flypaper? The first scenario, is my particular sweet spot. Now, I would appear to have braking on the brain, at the minute, at least given my last few entries.
Only because the more powerful and controlled my machine's stopping prowess, the faster I can go (to a point and within reason). Some would argue (with some justification) that a disc setup is overkill on a fixed. True, a well-honed cantilever will haul me and 20 kilos of payload to a controlled, predictable halt-even along a 1in 7 pushing 30 odd mph.
However, on a four season's machine, one running a single stopper, disc is an obvious choice. I have run Tektro Spyre on mine, for several years now. Its a twin piston design, widely regarded the benchmark for cable operated systems. A sentiment I'd agree with.
However, time and technology marches on. I've been keen to try Clarks CMD22 Dual Piston disc brake and Rever MCX1 systems to see if they have an edge. Dual piston designs have several advantages over single pistons, such as Avid BB5 and BB7.
Firstly, both pistons move an equal distance, thus connect evenly with the disc rotor. Therefore, even wear of both consumables, superior modulation and feel. They're also markedly easier to setup and maintain. There are some folks who "advocate" consigning the humble cable-operated disc, to the vaults of history.
Modern hydraulic systems win hands down, in competitive contexts. No need to dial in the pads to compensate for wear, open systems do that automatically.
Indeed, provided you don't kink/damage the hose, stick to the correct fluid and observe service intervals, they're fit n' forget. A few months back, I was lusting after TRP Hylex but couldn't secure a set, at the right price.
I've no doubt they'd convert me within a matter of lever actuations, mind. Such lust has been tempered by the arrival of these Clarks CM22, which I shall whip aboard and dial in very shortly.
160mm rotors have been my default, as they have an advantage in the stopping stakes (although some suggest 140mm, are fine for 'cyclo cross).
Never be tempted to skimp of cable quality, mind. These are also central to getting the very best from them. I'd suggest compressionless, and decent cutters. Something like these Jagwire Pro Road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit and Super B TBWC30 Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters
Not that I was going to go very far with a flat tyre. To my surprise, my working fixed's ultra dependable Schwalbe Marathon GT, had succumbed to a flat. No sign of anything sharp in the casing, so I fed it a tube from my tube rack, along with another spare for the SQR Tour.
Wheel, home, chain correctly tensioned and we're ready to let the good tmes roll again. I will probably switch to the Vee Rubber Zilent Tyre, once the Maraton GT comes of pensionable age. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-tyre It'll save a few grams too, especially the 35mm (as big as said bike's rear triangle will entertain).
Several hundred miles in, I'm not surprised the fixed's SRAM has negligible wear. As a rough n' ready, even through a harsh winter, I can expect 3,000 miles from a fixed chain. Nonetheless, and regardless of your chain types, its good to check their health frequently.
Replacing chains by, or before wear hits 0.8mm, saves a lot of unnecessary erosion, and ultimately, expense replacing rings, cassettes and other components. I prefer the digital models but simple, nickle plated anaologue models give change from £5. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torque-chain-checker
