Tweaking The Tempo

 

I’m consistently told that I’m very adaptable and for the most part, that’s very positive. To some extent, there’s never the wrong conditions, just the wrong equipment. Whether that be coping mechanisms, or material stuff. I’d been pushing myself very hard in broader contexts, to the point of chronic emotional depletion. This was only evident to a very select few and I was struggling to pinpoint; dare I say articulate the experience and root causes.  I’d been down to London to experience BTS  BTS World Tour London: 70,000 ARMYs Fill Tottenham Hotspur Stadium!

Not my genre of music but the spectacle and company were fantastic. The fanbase seemed a really supportive and positive collective- this was incredibly palpable at every point, within the train carriages, the stadium and the immense crowds snaking through the streets of North London afterwards. Potentially a mugger’s paradise, the sea of bodies flowed without incident, although we were exhausted after the two-hour journey back to our Goodge St hotel.

The sustained heatwave hasn’t negatively impacted my riding pattern, rather I’ve taken more time to explore the lanes and byways. Being mindful to cover my neck, apply a high factor sunscreen to exposed skin and carrying two full trade bottles. Soda water is my mid-ride tipple of choice, although plain tap water comes a close second. I don’t miss sugary, caffeine-laden drinks, but I’ve always missed the carbonated fizz.

Some years ago, I encountered a recovering alcoholic who told me he was able to quit gin but not the tonic water.  

Two hundred and fifty miles later and I’m forming the opinion that Juice Lubes Slick Juice is loosely comparable to Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing on the friction front. I’ve also applied some to Ursula’s Kinekt post, since I was doing some seasonal checks, topping up internal frame preserves etc, while the weather was particularly conducive.

This is particularly apparent on the Hollowtech II axles and anecdotally, contributing to a higher average speed when measured over a particular circuit. I’ve been defaulting to these Sidi Aertis Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing, which are a sporty cross country mountain bike shoe but one that makes ready transition to gravel, audax and general road duties. Contexts where safe, dependable walking is desirable.

The soles have marginally more give, compared with the Shimano SHRX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing  , which is welcome off the bike but doesn’t impair efficiency when I’ve been tackling extended, or sharp climbs on the fixed. As gravel and backpacking has evolved, manufacturers have responded by introducing models with more and less compliant soles to suit different tastes.

Stiffer, dare we say sportier soles are fabulous for pedalling efficiency, but can induce fatigue on long rides.  Models, such as Leatt Pro Clip Endurance Shoes  Leatt Pro Clip Endurance Shoes | cycling-not-racing  are aimed at those wanting “dependable performance and all-day comfort but without the race focus stiffness”. I’ve found they meet this mission statement handsomely and also have scope for touring. The wider profiles are also very accommodating of waterproof socks, which is significant, especially given the extensive mesh panelling. This also extends their horizons to winter.  Compared with the Shimano and Sidi discussed; the sole has a little more give, which is apparent during out of-the-saddle efforts on the fixed and I’ve noted a little extra cleat clatter off the bike. 

Genre blurring is nothing new. Mountain bike drivetrains became the norm on road going touring bikes and higher-end hybrids back in the late 80s, especially as triples became increasingly expected on new builds. I’ve never been shy of mixing and matching to suit gearing and indeed taste. For example, Denise sports a 2x10 Deore crankset, Tiagra rear mech and an old Deore LX front mech commanded by bar end shifters.

I’ve had a Shimano 600 road front mech commanding a touring triple and it could struggle bringing the chain over to the big ring. Back in the days of square tapers, I originally paired a Stronglight 100 Touring triple to Ursula, although even with relatively long axles, the cranks ran a hairs’ breadth from the chainstays-literally. Hence, I ultimately opted for an Alivio, when one came along at the right price back in November 2009.

 There’s much less scope for adjustment with a contemporary external bottom bracket configuration, meaning a gravel specific crank is likely to present Q factor, chain line and chainstay whacking issues.

Again, these things are nuanced. Experimentation is one thing; fool's missions are quite another.

If you’d one laying around, or gifted you, it might be worth exploring. However, it could also turn into a time sapping saga. For me, I’d reach for a 68mm Deore bottom bracket and crankset. I initially fitted a Tiagra bottom bracket when Denise was built as a 1x10, but switched for Deore when that mysteriously got the grumbles and an XT is the planned successor.  Right, I’ve just bolted some pattern cleats to these Leatt Trail shoes and will head off on Ursula to explore…

 

      

 

 

Melting, Musing, Blasting & Stopping

Not surprising perhaps, since the UK has recently experienced, the hottest day on record. It was a stonking hot week, at least here in the South East. Even nocturnal rides, testing lights, were close and muggy-hovering around 24 degrees. 

Day rides, saw emulsion and wax types chain lubes melt. Literally coating the drive-side crank arms in a sticky residual layer. On that quickly contaminated shoes. Thankfully, these were easily dismissed with a gentle solvent. 

Beeswax furniture polish for the crank arms, leather conditioner cum food, the shoes. Internal frame preserves have also turned very fluid, but not to the stage where its gushing from the frames "breathe holes" , engulfing the chainstays/hub etc. 

I can function well enough in these temperatures, although maintaining a steady 20 mph for 20 miles, can be challenging-even with sufficient fluids. Designs like the back bottle (link & photograph) come into their own.  Though there are some minor downsides, I've come to really appreciate the Relaj Shape Bottle's design too.

Popping ice (or pour 70% full of water, then freeze) and placing in a jersey pocket brings welcome, cooling relief. I'm also pleased to report the Funkier Force Pro Bib shorts https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/funkier-force-pro-bib-shorts  have certainly cut it in the comfortt stakes. They also offer plenty of bang, for very modest buck, in other respects, too.  

For the most part, I'm resistant to testing new shorts and saddles, in case both are mutually incompatible. Far fairer to run an old favourite and see how things measure up. Hygiene aside; I have alternated between different bibs to see how the saddle covering behaves. 

Am I able to make minute adjustments, am I surfing around, or do I feel like I'm perched atop a sheet of flypaper? The first scenario, is my particular sweet spot. Now, I would appear to have braking on the brain, at the minute, at least given my last few entries. 

Only because the more powerful and controlled my machine's stopping prowess, the faster I can go (to a point and within reason). Some would argue (with some justification) that a disc setup is overkill on a fixed. True, a well-honed cantilever will haul me and 20 kilos of payload to a controlled, predictable halt-even along a 1in 7 pushing 30 odd mph. 

However, on a four season's machine, one running a single stopper, disc is an obvious choice. I have run Tektro Spyre on mine, for several years now. Its a twin piston design, widely regarded the benchmark for cable operated systems. A sentiment I'd agree with. 

However, time and technology marches on. I've been keen to try Clarks CMD22 Dual Piston disc brake and Rever MCX1 systems to see if they have an edge. Dual piston designs have several advantages over single pistons, such  as Avid BB5 and BB7. 

Firstly, both pistons move an equal distance, thus connect evenly with the disc rotor. Therefore, even wear of both consumables, superior modulation and feel. They're also markedly easier to setup and maintain. There are some folks who "advocate" consigning the humble cable-operated disc, to the vaults of history. 

Modern hydraulic systems win hands down, in competitive contexts. No need to dial in the pads to compensate for wear, open systems do that automatically. 

Indeed, provided you don't kink/damage the hose, stick to the correct fluid and observe service intervals, they're fit n' forget. A few months back, I was lusting after TRP Hylex but couldn't secure a set, at the right price. 

I've no doubt they'd convert me within a matter of lever actuations, mind. Such lust has been tempered by the arrival of these Clarks CM22, which I shall whip aboard and dial in very shortly.  

160mm rotors have been my default, as they have an advantage in the stopping stakes (although some suggest 140mm, are fine for 'cyclo cross). 

Never be tempted to skimp of cable quality, mind. These are also central to getting the very best from them. I'd suggest compressionless, and decent cutters. Something like these Jagwire Pro Road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit and Super B TBWC30 Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters

Not that I was going to go very far with a flat tyre. To my surprise, my working fixed's ultra dependable Schwalbe Marathon GT, had succumbed to a flat. No sign of anything sharp in the casing, so I fed it a tube from my tube rack, along with another spare for the SQR Tour. 

Wheel, home, chain correctly tensioned and we're ready to let the good tmes roll again.   I will probably switch to the Vee Rubber Zilent Tyre, once the Maraton GT comes of pensionable age. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-tyre   It'll save a few grams too, especially the 35mm (as big as said bike's rear triangle will entertain). 

Several hundred miles in, I'm not surprised the fixed's SRAM has negligible wear. As a rough n' ready, even through a harsh winter, I can  expect 3,000 miles from a fixed chain. Nonetheless, and regardless of your chain types, its good to check their health frequently. 

Replacing chains by, or before wear hits 0.8mm, saves a lot of unnecessary erosion, and ultimately, expense replacing rings, cassettes and other components. I prefer the digital models but simple, nickle plated anaologue models give change from £5.   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torque-chain-checker