Cheese, Carbon Contemplation & Leather

 No, sorry to disappoint, these are not some newfound fetishes but now that I have your attention...I’ve been running in the fixed gear winter/trainer’s newly fitted Stronglight O-light Aheadset and tweaked the bearings twice in approximately 150 miles. Nothing obviously noteworthy in that statement. However, two sets of stem bolt heads have essentially turned to cheese, despite the use of decent tool bits and a torque wrench.  

Admittedly, the originals were a little rounded, four years down the line but the replacements I had initially plucked from small parts drawer literally turned to mush and had to be delicately extracted. To clarify, the threads were fine, it was the Allen heads that were decidedly soft.  

Disappointing, given they were supposedly stainless steel, not aluminium alloy. The latter may have some weight advantages, but decent quality stainless steel is the benchmark-unless your bikes are on extreme calorie-controlled diets.  

In this instance, titanium (proper, not the cheap as chips Chinese fare- the sort advertised as ti and £1.99 for 6 bolts) is a good bet, but remember a synthetic grease, such as White Lightning Crystal High Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) if you’re pairing them with 6061/7005 aluminium alloys, or indeed, lightweight steel, otherwise they could forma very stubborn, galvanic bond.  

Ti to ti (in common with steel to steel and aluminium alloy to aluminium alloy) is fine with PTFE, or even lithium-based preps-it's just when you mix metals of different parentage that problems can present.  

Long story short, more rummaging in the small parts jumble trays unearthed to compatible units, which were breezed in and torqued down to 5nm. I purchased some spares online, so there’s some in reserve, but crucially, these are perfectly adequate and of reasonable quality.  

Point is, like tubes and chains, it’s good to keep a supply since they usually fail at the least convenient and arguably most frustrating time-namely when the shops closed, and a job that could have been done in a few minutes has to wait.   

While the fixed gear winter/trainers’ Kinesis carbon fork seems in good health, I’m keeping an eye out for a suitable replacement. Not that it overly complicates matters but given the frame hails from 2005, I need a traditional 1 1/8th steerer- not tapered and Q/R, not through axle. They’re still around and worst-case scenario, I’d go for a decent, lightweight 4130 cro-moly replacement, which may add a few grams but, all things being equal, will last a lifetime and without undue anxiety. Serendipity will guide for now.  

I was once described as “philosophical” by two young women I had gone to school with. It was the summer of 1990, Anette and Justine were working in a dress factory, while waiting for our exam results.  

They were hoping to join the navy. Anette’s comment was a polite way of implying that I didn’t care about the results, had little ambition, or drive. Couldn’t’ve been further from the truth. I’ve always been adept at bluffing, as a defence mechanism. I will also adapt, regardless which way the wind blows, but never lacked focus, ambition, or direction.   

Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer both sport traditional leather saddles. Ursula this Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) , the fixed, this honey Spa Cycles Aire Titanium, which is made from Australian cowhide. Both have served year-round and haven’t required anything, save for periodic “feeding” with suitable leather food, to keep the hides nourished and protected from the elements.  

Both have done many thousands of miles on both, so custom formed to my derriere.  I’ve had some nice leather bar wraps, too, including this Bobbin TESTED: BOBBIN LEATHER HANDLEBAR TALE (sevendaycyclist.com). Again, provided you’ve given the hide a periodic feeding, they should hold their looks and perform well for several years. I’d also run Brooks for several years, hell n’ high water.  

Save for some patina and fading, it racked up thousands of miles, before I replaced it. I have also dressed its bars with some store-branded leather tape for several years. Souma leather have sent me theirs to test, which was warmly appreciated. I’ve designated this one for the fixed, since Ursula had recently been upgraded to some 3.5mm thick Ergon BT Gravel Bar Tape.  

I’m still perfectly happy with the silicone adorning the Holdsworth’s drops and see no reason to replace the Kranx Stretta Primo High Grip Anti Shock KRANX STRETTA PRIMO ANTI SHOCK BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) presently dressing the Teenage Dream’s Salsa bell lap. Cyclo cross bars on a road bike???...Yes, I love drop bars on mountain bikes too, which probably goes some way to explaining my fondness for Ross Shafer’s Salsa Cycles (although he has long since sold the brand). On that note, I'll leave you with my review of the Shimano PD ED500 Pedals Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Bum Steer AKA Its Too Tight, Or Its Too Slack..

 I had a model cancel a shoot, which is annoying but comes with the territory. This presented an ideal opportunity to investigate some issues with my fixed gear winter/trainer’s recently replaced Aheadset.  

I’d pensioned off the long serving FSA, which had served faithfully for five fairly hard years. The lower race employed a cartridge bearing, the upper traditional balls, which keeps costs down, but I fancied something a little more refined, hence the Stronglight.  

However, despite having everything correctly aligned, it wouldn’t adjust properly. Removing slop meant tightening bearings to the point the bars would barely turn. Something was clearly very wrong, and I wondered if this was indicative of a more serious fork steerer issue.   

A full strip and diagnostic session followed. I dismissed the Gusset Uni-Lock Headlock, inspected the fork steerer, paying particular attention to the crown area and went the SFN (Star Fangled Nut) route.  

I then dismantled the headset and found while new, it was a “Franksenset”. One cobbled together from two superficially identical but ultimately, incompatible models (which in retrospect, explains the issues and why it was so cheap). The compression ring being a case in point. Given it was boxed and sealed, I had no reason to think anything was "off".  

Decision made. No sense attempting silk purse from sow’s ear. Might as well start again...The cartridge bearings would be useful but otherwise, I put it down to experience. Thankfully, I found a complete, sealed Olite I’d bought a while back. This also proved an ideal opportunity to use a tube of Park PPL grease that was splitting along the seams.  

Lashings of the tenacious green goo delivered to the cups and races-buttery smooth. New stem bolts, (since the Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension Stem TEST & REVIEW REDSHIFT SPORTS SHOCKSTOP SUSPENSION STEM (sevendaycyclist.com)’s  were getting a little chewed) some fresh thread lock on the disc caliper mount hardware, some spacer-switching... 

Time consuming but formative checks confirmed things were broadly right, so I fine-tuned the preload and snugged the stem bolts to 5nms. Cane Creek SC5 CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)lever engaged and several, neurotic rockings later, I couldn’t trace any slop, so tethered the K-Lite dynamo K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cable to the Kinesis fork leg.  

Of course, I wasn't done there!  

Tyres inflated; pedals switched in favour of the Shimano XT, chain tension tweaked and finally, Motoverde PTFE Chain LubeMotoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) stripped in favour of this Momum Mic Dry Lube. I finished by giving the frameset a light waxing, buffing with a micro fibre cloth, then popped it away.  

There’s a fine line between staying with something until you’ve got it sussed (and sorted) and quitting while ahead.  Sure enough, the following morning’s shakedown ride confirmed the bearings were a little too snug.  

 

Slackening the stem bolts, I loosened the pre-load by 16th turn, did the rocking back and forth test, then tightened the stem bolts to 5nms.  Cue loud (internal) cheer-it was 5.50am and I didn’t think my neighbours would be so appreciative, dare I say empathetic.  When it comes to bearings, headset and bottom brackets, I preside durability and weather sealing above weight and indeed price. Needle bearing models that displace loads were particular favourites.  

The Teenage Dream was originally built, (back in ‘91) with a Primax unit featuring these, which might seem strange given needle roller bearing models were a tourists’ choice and said machine was a sunny days, pared to the essential's plaything...I’ve run them up to very high mileages on traditional touring lorries but they’re also a good bet for bikes that regularly lug trailers and indeed, tag-alongs.  

Decent waterproof greases, including the Park, or White Lightning Crystal TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) certainly help extend service intervals, without shortening component life. Mudguards (Fenders) also make a big difference but if this isn’t an option for you, make a boot from old inner tube to protect the lower race.  

Obviously, being butyl go for a synthetic grease, rather than the old school lithium, or PTFE infused blends, since these will rot rubber-another consideration if headsets employ rubber seals.  Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) is a surprisingly stoical alternative, albeit not rivalling the Park, or White Lightning blends discussed.