Torqued & Lubed

 

I’d reached conclusions on some tooling and lubes, specifically the Feedback Sports Torque wrench and NZero dry wax lube Nzero Dry Wax Lubricant | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I’ve been really impressed with the standard of engineering and user-friendliness of the torque wrench. Torque function aside, size and ratchet function mean it’s also delightful to wield in awkward, or confined spaces- bottle cages being prime example.  

 

The ability to use it as a T-wrench for added leverage on stubborn fasteners is another definite plus. Cost aside, the only detraction is the preset 5nm setting. Fine for a lot of components. However, equally too low and a little high for other components, including seat collars, stem bolts, bottle, and mudguard/carrier fasteners. 

  

I should also point out that traditional torque wrenches should not be used to undo parts. Doing so will damage the mechanism. The NZero wax, though less tenacious than some is still relatively durable and cures much quicker than a lot of wax-type formulas. The Momum MIC Wax Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cures a little faster and has, during the summer months returned over 400 miles from a single application. 

  

However, it’s a semi synthetic blend, while the NZero uses natural ingredients. Unlike some waxes, the NZero doesn’t melt messily in high-temperatures and transfer to hands is minimal. A definite plus, should you succumb to a flat, or commute in smart trousers.  

 

Staying with punctures a moment, I’ve also become very endeared to the AS2 Pro Max- basically a refined, pocket-sized compressor that will raise around 4 tyres from a full charge. I’d still be inclined to carry a mini pump and possibly a Co2 setup on a long, or multi-day ride but for general, day-to-day training I’ve found it infinitely preferable to the alternatives. The important thing is to charge it regularly. 

  

Assuming it’s just been sat in your chosen bike luggage, pop it out and charge weekly, otherwise, at the earliest opportunity. Bargain on an hour or so, from the mains. It's possible to charge it from the USB charger on some dynamos, including the mighty and much revered K-Lite K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) systems, which might be fine on tour, but again, I’d be carrying a mini, or possibly frame-fit pump as backup.  

 

In common with the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) it’ll manage higher pressures 120psi a time, which caters for most contexts. However, it is decidedly loud, so stick with the track pump at home, at least during unsocial hours.  

 

200 charge cycles before the lithium-ion battery will experience a 10% loss in capacity, which suggests a decent working life and besides, provided you ensure I-ion batteries don’t fall below 70% charge wherever possible, you will considerably extend their lifespan. Talking of pumps, here’s Steve’s review of the Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump Silca Impero Ultimate 2.0 Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

I was surprised to experience some tingling in my right hand wearing the Grip Grab mitts- it's an isolated experience thankfully and has me wondering what induced it. I hadn’t changed any contact points.  

 

Lights are useful year-round. I ensure there’s at least set of blinkies fitted to the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream, should conditions unexpectedly change, or I lose track of time, while making the most of late summer evenings. Fixed, Denise and Ursula all sport dynamos –high power lighting and on tap. Magicshine has graciously sent me some of their new range, which caught my attention. Some I cannot discuss now.   

 

I’ve received their evo 1700 underneath mounted bike light, which as the name implies sits beneath the bars, giving a clean aesthetic, while crucially combining a highly effective mix of flood and spot beams. The former ensures a good peripheral sweep of light, the spot picks out the details, lens technology projecting both intelligently, to minimise risk of dazzling or similar nuisance to other road users.   

 

The integral battery is another appealing feature. In common with most modern high-power lights, there’s a wide spectrum of output from 200 to 1700 lumens, in theory catering for most contexts., although formative impressions suggest the beam pattern is road centric.  

 

Again, run times at the higher end are relatively short, so this genre is ideally suited to those who train or commute in varying conditions and enjoy the odd blast along the backroads at warp speed. There’s a remote control for added convenience and though relatively standard these days, you can tune to taste using the brands’ app.  

 

In common with other vehicles, there’s a high and low beam, designed so you don’t dazzle oncoming road users. Thankfully, this can be controlled with a deft prod of the remote, although as with any system, worth doing a few practice runs, so this action becomes intuitive before heading out.  

Cheese, Carbon Contemplation & Leather

 No, sorry to disappoint, these are not some newfound fetishes but now that I have your attention...I’ve been running in the fixed gear winter/trainer’s newly fitted Stronglight O-light Aheadset and tweaked the bearings twice in approximately 150 miles. Nothing obviously noteworthy in that statement. However, two sets of stem bolt heads have essentially turned to cheese, despite the use of decent tool bits and a torque wrench.  

Admittedly, the originals were a little rounded, four years down the line but the replacements I had initially plucked from small parts drawer literally turned to mush and had to be delicately extracted. To clarify, the threads were fine, it was the Allen heads that were decidedly soft.  

Disappointing, given they were supposedly stainless steel, not aluminium alloy. The latter may have some weight advantages, but decent quality stainless steel is the benchmark-unless your bikes are on extreme calorie-controlled diets.  

In this instance, titanium (proper, not the cheap as chips Chinese fare- the sort advertised as ti and £1.99 for 6 bolts) is a good bet, but remember a synthetic grease, such as White Lightning Crystal High Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) if you’re pairing them with 6061/7005 aluminium alloys, or indeed, lightweight steel, otherwise they could forma very stubborn, galvanic bond.  

Ti to ti (in common with steel to steel and aluminium alloy to aluminium alloy) is fine with PTFE, or even lithium-based preps-it's just when you mix metals of different parentage that problems can present.  

Long story short, more rummaging in the small parts jumble trays unearthed to compatible units, which were breezed in and torqued down to 5nm. I purchased some spares online, so there’s some in reserve, but crucially, these are perfectly adequate and of reasonable quality.  

Point is, like tubes and chains, it’s good to keep a supply since they usually fail at the least convenient and arguably most frustrating time-namely when the shops closed, and a job that could have been done in a few minutes has to wait.   

While the fixed gear winter/trainers’ Kinesis carbon fork seems in good health, I’m keeping an eye out for a suitable replacement. Not that it overly complicates matters but given the frame hails from 2005, I need a traditional 1 1/8th steerer- not tapered and Q/R, not through axle. They’re still around and worst-case scenario, I’d go for a decent, lightweight 4130 cro-moly replacement, which may add a few grams but, all things being equal, will last a lifetime and without undue anxiety. Serendipity will guide for now.  

I was once described as “philosophical” by two young women I had gone to school with. It was the summer of 1990, Anette and Justine were working in a dress factory, while waiting for our exam results.  

They were hoping to join the navy. Anette’s comment was a polite way of implying that I didn’t care about the results, had little ambition, or drive. Couldn’t’ve been further from the truth. I’ve always been adept at bluffing, as a defence mechanism. I will also adapt, regardless which way the wind blows, but never lacked focus, ambition, or direction.   

Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer both sport traditional leather saddles. Ursula this Cycles Berthoud Soulor CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) , the fixed, this honey Spa Cycles Aire Titanium, which is made from Australian cowhide. Both have served year-round and haven’t required anything, save for periodic “feeding” with suitable leather food, to keep the hides nourished and protected from the elements.  

Both have done many thousands of miles on both, so custom formed to my derriere.  I’ve had some nice leather bar wraps, too, including this Bobbin TESTED: BOBBIN LEATHER HANDLEBAR TALE (sevendaycyclist.com). Again, provided you’ve given the hide a periodic feeding, they should hold their looks and perform well for several years. I’d also run Brooks for several years, hell n’ high water.  

Save for some patina and fading, it racked up thousands of miles, before I replaced it. I have also dressed its bars with some store-branded leather tape for several years. Souma leather have sent me theirs to test, which was warmly appreciated. I’ve designated this one for the fixed, since Ursula had recently been upgraded to some 3.5mm thick Ergon BT Gravel Bar Tape.  

I’m still perfectly happy with the silicone adorning the Holdsworth’s drops and see no reason to replace the Kranx Stretta Primo High Grip Anti Shock KRANX STRETTA PRIMO ANTI SHOCK BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) presently dressing the Teenage Dream’s Salsa bell lap. Cyclo cross bars on a road bike???...Yes, I love drop bars on mountain bikes too, which probably goes some way to explaining my fondness for Ross Shafer’s Salsa Cycles (although he has long since sold the brand). On that note, I'll leave you with my review of the Shimano PD ED500 Pedals Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)