Muffin Racks up The Miles

 

Having tweaked the chain tension and tightened the ring bolts to 10nm, I was feeling more confident with Muffin and keen to gently rack up some miles to bed everything in properly and possibly reflect on further modifications/upgrades. Frankly, I’d built with everything I’d intended, rather than older parts and compromises.  Consumables such as chains, sprockets and bar tapes will be replaced but nothing major.

After some deliberation, I found myself pruning the chain by two links, sliding the frame forward in the dropouts and getting the chain play to 1/2inch, which is the textbook suggested ideal. I also found myself replacing the inner brake wire, then dialling in the TRP Spyre, which improved stopping somewhat. Presented the ideal opportunity to play with the Park torque wrench some more.  Simple tweaks can often make huge differences. I also run a little scrap butyl where the frame fit pump rests against the top tube’s underside, protecting it from unwanted rub and ultimately, paint damage.

Though the V2 was always fun and predictable, Muffin’s bigger clearances, improved lateral stiffness and general modernisations make for a very well-balanced machine with a magic carpet ride-especially with the Continental. These clearances also mean I can run 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter (spikes) during the darker months. Features that better suits my riding style. That said, I remain fond of the V2 and its geared, first generation Kaffenback (Think Café’ & back) cousin (which would also take 32mm tyres including mudguards). Think winter/trainer cum working bike, although some folks report theirs were reliable lightweight tourers- I can well believe it.

Talking of small jobs, shoe cleats are often neglected, and these Shimano had served me very well but were showing obvious signs of deterioration. Mercifully, the bolts, though slightly arthritic came away with a quick shot of Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing. I had thought one wasn’t going to budge, calling for the drill bity but thankfully this also shifted with a T25 Torx. I instated the new Leatt cleats with a liberal helping of Oxford Toque Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and torqued them to 4nm using the Velo Tool Torque Wrench.

 I’d also been keen to test the effectiveness of some degreasers on waterproof grease. Ironically, Ursula’s Shimano XT seemed slightly reticent to budge. A quick shot of MO94 helped with this reticence. Some Park Tool PL1000TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES still remained on the threads, which is impressive, since it had been a year or so since I removed them. I treated them to a modest helping of degreaser, reinstating them with a liberal lick of Oxford Torque Assembly Grease. 

Ursula and I have also been enjoying further exploratory meanders far from the maddening crowd. The CST Patrol is running behind, the Continental Cross King Black Chil up front. There’s a method to this, primarily since the CST Patrol are slightly narrower, thus giving greater clearance at the rear triangle. The Patrol are also 80g heavier than the Cross Kings and I’m wondering if this has any connection to the EPS (Extreme Puncture Safety) belt, which is 4 on CST’s scale. It also allows me to compare rolling resistance and similar performance characteristics.

 I’m genuinely impressed by both at the moment and in similar contexts, although there’s a substantial price differential between them. The Patrol (at least in 26inch guise) aren’t tubeless ready, which may be a consideration, nay dealbreaker for some. I can appreciate some very palpable advantages of tubeless setups but on balance, still prefer tubes, whether the humble butyl, or TPU.   

 Either way, both tyres are providing a dependable, compliant ride over some very badly surfaced gravel roads and farm tracks. Longer excursions also confirm I’ve got Ursula’s saddle height absolutely right.      

      

 

 

Just Changing A Cable

 

Needing a break from the screen, I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t behave.

Time is a finite resource, so I swapped over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast, this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had weathered somewhat.

The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was another contender.  

The bar bags were switched since I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.

These are very effective for rapid cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing  but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to fair weather conditions.

Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a 26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge remaining.

I'd made something a faux pas, believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench. Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.

However, I rapidly dismissed this as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.  

The Stronglight A9 headset was still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version employs ball, not cartridge bearings.  

Always better to replace the bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity. During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque wrench.   

Bottom Bracket Bites The Dust

 

Once again, Ursula's front mech began misbehaving. The first time, I returned and discovered some slop in the Hollowtech II crankset. Hmm, curious, but nothing a quick tweak of the bearing tension wouldn't fix, right? 

The following outing and yep, the play hard returned, signalling the ti bottom bracket's cartridge bearings were spent. I'd bought a couple of XT units in preparation for this, or similar expiry.  No time like the present.

Being well greased, the crankset and bottom bracket released very easily. I gave Ursula's bottom bracket shell a careful cleaning, introduced some Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing, applied a light coating to the XT bottom bracket and then sped it home.  Talking of grease, Steve’s been long term testing this Blub Lithium GreaseBlub Lithium Grease | cycling-not-racing

I went the deep clean route with the rings and spider a ride or two later but was more concerned with getting everything home and ruling out anything else. I reached for the Peaty’s Speed GreasePEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing and applied this to the Deore cranksets axle, reducing the friction, while keeping corrosion and similar hassles at bay. A quick nudge of the 10mm preload cap, confirmed my diagnosis was correct, the titanium unit’s ceramic bearings were indeed shot.

Double checked, I wound the pinch bolts home to 14nm, spun the cranks-all sorted. Another little job off the list, although in retrospect, I might've been better served going for the XT following Ursula's frame refurb and modification.  Some greasy finger marks adorning the right chainstay and bottom bracket shell were effortlessly dismissed with the BBB Bio Ready wash and a retired sock.

During this phase, I was also convinced I had another, a third Hollowtech II bottom bracket hiding away in the spares boxes. With a little time on my hands, I took this opportunity to root around, emerging victorious. It features the usual fit n’ forget bearings, aluminium cups and a composite component. This saves 20g or so over the titanium Van Nicholas, although I’m confident the bearings won’t last nearly so long.  Nice to have another handy, though-even if only as a stop-gap.

A few weeks and many mixed terrain miles down the line, the CST Patrol continue to impress with their all-rounder prowess, proving suitably swift on pockmarked asphalt, unmade roads and dirt trails. Impossible to comment on their mud churning prowess given it's been refreshingly dry of late. The EPS belt seems similarly effective at keeping flints and other sharps from causing mischief. However, rains and boggy conditions may tell a different story.  

Staying with tyres and inflation, I’m extremely fond of mini-inflators, which while not quite magic bullets, save time and effort when recovering from wounded butyl. I’ve tested a fair few in recent months and to date, my favourite is the CYC PLUS AS2 Pro Max E PumpCycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing . The relatively large battery will inflate up to 4 tyres between charges, which is great for longer rides, especially bigger volume gravel and mountain bike rubber. It also features a digital pressure gauge, taking the guesswork out of things, so there’s only operator error to blame if you’ve whacked in too much pressure.

More compact models fit better in jersey pockets. I’m fond of Muc Off’s Air Mach Electric Mini Inflator Muc-Off Air Mach Electric Mini Inflator | cycling-not-racing  it charges from zero to 100 in 25 minutes and capable of 100psi. However, and this goes for other designs with 7.5v 300mAh batteries, I’d advocate carrying a decent pump as a backup, should you succumb to a further, or multiple flats during a ride.

Against this backdrop, I’d spotted their PRO version, which in my view is a great improvement and could give the competition a good run for your hard earned. £100 buys a model capable of 120psi and will inflate up to 4 tyres between charges, which only take a few minutes longer than the standard model. This is also quite impressive, given Muc-Off has opted for a 7.4v 450mAh, which improves power output but without unduly increasing bulk.  

The Pro also incorporates a digital gauge and auto cutout when the desired pressure is reached, which is super convenient and a very welcome upgrade. Other improvements include a screw on extension hose for TPU valves since these can melt (it’s also recommended when tackling Schrader), a ball needle for footballs, beach balls and similar items we may pick up on a family, or group ride.

The instructions give guide times for various tyre sizes when fully charged. 26inch isn’t included but there are sufficient comparators for me to cross reference claims during testing.   

This Velo21 mini adjustable torque driver wrench. Unlike the preset types I’ve been testing recently, its adjustable between 4, 5 and 6nm, which should cater for contact points- a seat post adjustment, loose stem face, Aheadset bearings, cable pinch bolts, 6 bolt disc rotors, disc callipers to name but a few. Formative impressions are favourable, as is the price, so we'll see what the next few weeks and regular fettling reveal...  

 

Critical Thinking & The Sentimental Season

 

Why aren't you at work??? Well, I am at work thank you very much. I work 70hours per week, just a very different schedule to some. Cycling journalism and product testing are not my only professions, but ones I am particularly passionate about. I wrote my first magazine feature for a national cycling title, aged 14, back in 1988- a test of a Muddy Fox Courier Mountain bike.  

I am highly experienced in several riding genres, but don’t profess to be expert, let alone an oracle. Those that genuinely are, carry themselves with a matter-of-fact humility. There is always something new to learn, concepts to understand, even if not necessarily embraced. I am similarly passionate about photography-models, street and industrial, specifically. Models & Portraiture - Stenning Photographic Model & Portraiture Photography Continuous development and lifelong learning are imperative, otherwise stagnation and regression set in. 

Back to 1989 and I bought my first track pump to counter frequent punctures, tyre wear and loss of wheel truth courtesy of under inflated tyres. Workshop pumps are one of those investments that will repay their investment countless times, even the budget models. The track pump in question was an orange Silca, capable of delivering 200psi- not that I’d ever needed that-120psi was pretty much my ceiling and it was best suited to road biased rubber.  

Sure, I’d raise a pancake flat 26x1.95 to 50psi and faster than mini/hand pumps of that era. However, best for high pressure, rather than high volume. Mine came with me to London and was eventually gifted to my favourite bike dealer when I bought an upgraded replacement in the autumn of 1998.  

I wanted to give it a loving home, albeit as a second/workshop spare. Having learned of my fondness, some might say nostalgia, their UK importer sent me this beautiful, contemporary Silca Terra- £139 at full rrp and a thing of beauty, from the hand lathed ash (wood) handle with hose-guide, and 76mm (3 inch) gauge.  

Unlike my original Silca, the barrel and handle are made from aluminium. There’s a reversable Presta/Schrader valve chuck with a bleed button in case you’ve got a bit carried away. Once upon a time, track pump gauges were notorious for having passing affinity with reality, now (particularly with digital gauges) things are within 1psi or so. I’ll be cross referencing that with my standalone digital gauges. Silca claim the Terra’s analogue unit is precise to within.5 psi at the lower end of the 30-120psi range. This covers most bases with contemporary bikes and tyres. I’ve raised a 26x2.3 tyre from zero to 60psi in 64 strokes.

However, some folks needing higher pressure, will need to look elsewhere. Saddleback also sent me this Feedback Sports Reflex Fixed Torque Bit Driver. It’s designed to be brought along for mid ride rescue, not workshop duties, no bad thing-horses for courses- I wouldn’t want to be lugging a workshop torque wrench in my bike luggage. It is based around the standard ¼" driver, meaning bits are easily acquired, or brought along, meaning you’ve got a custom toolkit for the road.    

Stock, we’ve got 4,5, 6mm and Torx T25 bits, 1 steel 5Nm torque extension. The driver body is a hybrid nylon/steel and the whole kit comes with a limited lifetime warrantee. I’m told the torque is accurate to within +/- 4% for up to 3,000 cycles.  

I was surprised that it took this long for Ursula’s rear mech cable to stretch and shifting go decidedly “off”. Just a matter of slackening the cable, pulling through and snugging down, although I always ensure I’ve a few spares handy before tackling these jobs just in case the inner wire in question decided it was going to implode. This is particularly significant at Christmas, where it’s bound to happen when you’re out of spares and the bike shop’s shut...  

Oh, and that’s the reason you get everything prepped and adjusted before heading out on a tour, reliability ride, or similar endurance event. While checking the fixed’s rack hardware, I found the otherwise superb Genetic chain tugs were impeding the fasteners. Not wanting to stress the fasteners or damage the eyelets I switched to a very discrete set bought as curiosities on Ali Express a year or so back. Solved the issue and hopefully they’ll do a decent enough job of holding chain tension.  

I’d been sent this Beam Corkey Premium Review Mirror a few weeks back and had my curiosity spiked when I saw a homage on one of the auction sites, or rather, the site bots brought it to my attention (along with 1500 inflatable pleasure dolls). “The W’EST Biking” version is breathtakingly similar, albeit noticeably heavier, refuting suggestions of “badge engineering”. I’ll close here with Steve’s review of the Ravemen FR300https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ravemen-fr300-daytime-running-light