Smaller Buster, Slacker Chains & Bigger Tyres

 

I've also been playing with Sigma's smaller, 110 lumen Buster. Output is good, although I'd steer you toward the 1600 Sigma Buster 1600 & RL150 Light Set | cycling-not-racing or HL2000 since these have more bite and in the latter's case, longer run times courtesy of the external battery. The HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing also comes with a remote as standard.  That out of the way, the Buster 1100 still offers a good spread of modes for general riding and the flashing modes are both frugal and eye catching-

Seemed to upset an Audi driver, which was ironic, given I am regularly dazzled by the intensity of Audi and other contemporary vehicle headlights, typically in the driver's seat but also the saddle. This despite sophisticated sensor technology that supposedly automatically adjusting to prevent dazzling and related hazards. I suspect the sensors will improve as time progresses, but I find their real-world performance a little erratic at present. 

While I was awaiting the arrival of the Garmin pattern mounts, I discovered another suitable design while hunting for something else. Was bound to happen-these things always materialise when we’re not looking for them. It was the “Goldilocks” length-long enough not to foul the Sigma Buster HL1100, while positioning the Coospo CS600 at the right angle I ported the head unit over from Denise. I’ve also left the old school Giant computer adorning Denise’s Genetic Diversion drops and fork leg, so I can always keep an overview of speed, distance and similar.  Those little victories…

Chain tension is a hotly debated topic in fixed gear circles. I'd left a couple of extra links and opted for slightly less tension with Muffin's new KMC. Not that the Izumi was unduly tight, but this has rewarded with slightly greater efficiency. The KMC Go Wax lube is also continuing the serene theme.

Greater clearance between rear tyre and seat tube is another benefit. I've gone for the 42mm Contact plus at the rear, which is a really solid, comfortable tyre, sticking with a 38mm Vittoria Adventure tech up front. I might go for a 42mm Vee Tire Co Zilent TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES when the Continental finally shows signs of wear. The original Zilent weren't intended for touring, but proved popular with this audience, so Vee Tyre Co reinforced the sidewalls on the MK II TESTED: VEE TIRE CO ZILENT MARK 2 TYRES

Despite "only" having a puncture repelling centre-strip, the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech are proving very reliable and, like the Continental, quicker than might be expected, given their girth. The 5mm puncture repelling belt is reminiscent of that employed in the Kenda Kwik Journey KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing but the Vittoria feel more supple and compliant.

There is sufficient clearance at the front for 42mm- I parked a Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES.   there during the summer but sought greater dependability during the darker months. Winter is hard on rider, drivetrain components, wheels and tyres, but with proper prep and the right kit, it can be a whole lot of fun, too.

For three seasons riding, I find ¾ lengths ideal, or at least cover most bases, protecting knees from chill and just long enough to provide a good seal with longer socks. I often pair with longer waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off. Whisper it, since some consider it a genre faux pas, but I also find them and their extended coverage very practical for off road excursions.

Having given Muffin a good sudsy bucket clean and addressed some slippage of the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing, I topped up the KMC GO and  installed the composite Garmin mount  to Ursula’s Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory Mount VELO ORANGE HANDLEBAR ACCESSORY MOUNT | cycling-not-racing, which necessitated removing the Ravemen XR 6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing but this is less problematic as we enter the lighter months.

Besides, I could always switch to the Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing and helmet mounting for rides on the wilder side. Helmet life and when to chuck them is a hotly debated topic. However, I’ve retired a few that have served eight years or so. I no longer trusted their integrity and in a couple of instances, adjustment dials were getting sloppy. I’m not going to argue with someone who disagrees with me on this front. I’ve worked with acquired brain injury and similar neurological conditions in the past and their impact upon people’s lives have certainly left an impression.

 During this episode of impromptu spring cleaning, I also took this opportunity to remove the seat post and check the grease’s tenure. This in turn prompted me to blast a little more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube.

As miles and familiarity with the Coospo CS600 increase, I’m discovering some minor niggles. Communication with the touch screen appears hit n’ miss wearing full finger gloves-even those with extensive silicone detailing, but I’ll try some others to see if this is an isolated, or consistent issue.

The auto backlight and similar sensored functions perform very reliably and while the anti-glare display is consistently good, the radar graphics are definitely sharper after dark.

 

Sky Blue Thinking....Bars & Busted Levers

 

Sometimes simple jobs can become very involved. I’d decided now was time to retire the Genetic D-Riser 4. It was a two-horse race between 44cm Ridgeback (Promax) featuring a moderate 8-degree flare, which is modest, although double that of the Genetic D-Riser 4. Then there are these 42cm Selcof Sterrato V2 Flared Gravel Handlebars.  For the uninitiated, Selcof are a post war Italian marque sold in 2008 to the Rivolta Group and now a mid-point marque marketed and distributed in the UK by Planet X.

Neither feature any rise and the drop is deeper (125mm in the Selcof’s instance). However, the tops make for easier, dare I say, cleaner positioning of lights and other accessories, which is another definite plus from my perspective

I’ve gone for the narrower Selcof, given Muffin is primarily a road build, and I don’t need the same degree of flare. It will permit me to tuck in a little tighter reducing air resistance when battling headwinds and the steering should remain predictably brisk. While reflecting and taking a wander round the web, I spotted this T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing . .  Greyville used to be their importer here in the UK, but I found some on a well-known auction site at a price I couldn’t pass up. I was pleasantly surprised by how closely it compliments Muffin’s livery.

It’s one of my all-time favourite bar tapes. I'm fond of others certainly and as with other natural silicones, at least those in lighter, or brighter colours, they do collect dirt and grime quite easily. Less so than the Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist, which features an embossed pattern. Otherwise, both share very similar pros and cons.

Comfort, damping and grip being the main draws- perfect for long training miles, touring lorries, bike packing, gravel and to a lesser extent, cyclo cross. Properties that outweigh their slight weight penalty over more traditional bar tapes, although this is only likely to be a turn off for owners of pared to the essentials TT missiles and other bikes on strict calorie-controlled diets.  The tear down was very straightforward, although the stem bolts had turned a little arthritic, having not been stripped and re-greased in a while.

Then I discovered the Tektro RL520’s resin cable run had warped, meaning a cable wouldn’t slide through. After some effort and the relentless barking of the neighbour’s three dogs inducing a splitting headache, I concluded the lever needed pensioning off. Running the very worthy, wall4et-friendly RL520 across the fleet long term, I’ve concluded the resin cable slot is a weak spot, so having double checked they’re compatible with disc invested in a set of Dia Compe 287 V.   I’ve used these before, albeit with V brakes and found them very effective with nice modulation and feel. I’ve forgone the Cane Creek dummy lever, since the different hood shapes meant I couldn’t get the alignment right when checked with one’s trusty spirit level.

Elsewhere, some winter Castelli goodies courtesy of Saddleback, Castelli's UK distributor has sent me the Ultimate Rain Jacket and Bib Tights. These are arguably intended for cool to moderate early season conditions, with a suggested temperature range between plus 4 and 14 degrees. The jacket features a PFAS-free PU membrane, taped seams, two hip pockets for parking stuff- hands too, when mooching around sans bike. There’s an integrated hood designed to fit beneath a helmet, while also continuing the dual use narrative.

Though a tailored fit, there’s plenty of adjustment, courtesy of the draw string hem, meaning you can bring it tighter on the bike, let t out when wearing street clothes. The Fordist “Any colour you like so long as its black” tends to divide opinion, but it compliment anything and retro reflective detailing around the hem and elasticated cuffs offer some nocturnal presence.  The tights feature the Progretto X2 Air Seamless Seat Pad and stretchy mesh cargo pockets on the thighs for snacks and anything else you might want quick access to are arguably a nod to gravel and bike packing.   

Formative impressions are favourable and what I’d expect from this end of the market. The Ultimate tights are best thought of as a middleweight model- apparently in the fabric density. None the worse for it. While they certainly have their place, I find the thermal Roubaix types a little too thick and toasty, even when the temperature’s dropping several degrees below zero. Part of this could be explained by my favouring of lower gears and a higher cadence, especially during the darker months.  To be honest, eight degrees upwards and I’m erring towards ¾ lengths, plenty of warmth and protection to the knees.

Continuing this wintry theme, I was also pleased to receive this Coospo TR70 Smart Radar Taillight, which boasts approaching vehicle warning, braking and a total of six other modes and a claimed maximum 40 hours run time (radar only). As is the trend for lighting, its designed to communicate with smart phones and indeed, some computers. The internet of all things some might say. Either way, I’m looking forward to seeing how it performs in the real world.

 

Just Changing A Cable

 

Needing a break from the screen, I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t behave.

Time is a finite resource, so I swapped over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast, this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had weathered somewhat.

The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was another contender.  

The bar bags were switched since I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.

These are very effective for rapid cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing  but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to fair weather conditions.

Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a 26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge remaining.

I'd made something a faux pas, believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench. Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.

However, I rapidly dismissed this as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.  

The Stronglight A9 headset was still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version employs ball, not cartridge bearings.  

Always better to replace the bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity. During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque wrench.   

Women have interests, Men have obsessions

 

A common remark and anecdotally, quite accurate. There are varying degrees of this, but I will confess to having an obsessive streak, although in day-to-day life, am very adept at keeping these in check. The ability to obsessively tweak, refine and adjust stuff (with episodic euphoria and despair) can prove all encompassing.   

The wait for a new headset brought with it time to reflect and some switching round of the fleet. I’ve decided to take the fixed gear winter/trainer a more minimalist route, switching the Topeak Super Tourist DX over to Ursula and porting the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) back over. This has meant the front end is now heavier than the rear, primarily down to the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) dyno hub front wheel.  

A week of torrential showers led to some very muddy lanes and hedge clippings flushed from the verges, spelled punctures. Mercifully, these were pedestrian and only made themselves known several hours post ride when I was home. Tiny holes, so easily patched and no obvious damage to the tyres. I have switched Denise’s front from the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to the Maxxis Ravager TR Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which are slightly friskier and more resistant to thorns and hedge clippings.  The perpetually wet conditions are brilliant for evaluating waterproof kit, including these Shimano MW7 booties, which have stiffer soles and Boa fasteners for a precise fit.  

As I’ve said before, water will creep in via the cleat drillings, but this is easily subverted with waterproof socks. Will also be interesting to see how well the Oxford Mint Bicycle Assembly grease copes with the darker, colder and wetter conditions. Yes, I assembled the cleat hardware with it.     

With the Topeak Super Tourist DX switched, the Ravemen TR100 now clings limpet like from the fixed’s mono stay. 

Headset issues resolved courtesy of this FSA and another spacer, I bolted the front end back together, applying lashings of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. The lower race bearings are cartridge, the upper balls, but if you’re going the hybrid route, this is the way things should go. While both upper and lower races feature seals, I’m a believer in liberal amounts of grease to keep things buttery smooth and pitting free.  

 

 

I’ve also gone belt n’ braces, fitting a butyl tube boot to the lower race to lock winter right royally out.  Front end reinstated and behaving perfectly, I turned my attentions to the drivetrain, wiring up the STX front mech, fitting a chain. I left the front mech cable stretching for twenty minutes, on the big ring and then pulled it through before turning my attentions to the rear.  

 

To my horror, nothing would sync. Closer inspection revealed I’d been seduced by the lure of a bargain shifter, only to discover it’s an MTB version. Inconvenient, but I’m to blame and it’s hardly the world’s end. I had a quick wander round the web, bought another, double checking it was the road version. Not such a bargain, but still favourable and moreover, the right model.   

  

The pull ratio for road and mtb are different, hence the issue. Trying to get it to mesh would be an exercise in futility and wasted time. I’d also noted the inner wire had also frayed annoyingly, but not altogether surprising, since it was a workshop basic, rather than premium quality unit. Sometimes we get bargains but in keeping with life generally, we get what we pay for. Often, there’s not a massive jump in price between staple and mid-range.  The left-hand side was fine, given front mechs aren’t indexed.  

 

Some more enforced leave but crucially progress is being made and the headset issue, sorted. Just a question of wiring in the new bar con, dialling the rear mech in, wrapping the bars and maybe tweaking the rear brake. During this episode, I managed to break the pin of a rather nice chain tool- weird since everything was correctly aligned, and I wasn’t applying undue force…My first attempt to wash the bar wrap didn’t remove as much of the oily patina as I’d first hoped, so I gave that a degreaser pre-wash, agitated that with my Oxford Tyre scrub and then tossed it in the machine at 30 degrees, along with some equally funky riding kit.  So near, yet so far…