Emerging from the Garage

 

A busy week. Having got Meg, the Magic Micra serviced and MOT’d and narrowly avoided acquiring a 1992 Suzuki GS500E project, I sought solace in the garage and continued stripping my fixed gear winter/trainer, cleaning parts before transferring them to the Mulo frameset. Some things were bin fodder, others model specific. The Mulo’s head tube is tapered, 1.5 inches at the base, which wasn’t problematic since I had an integrated Cane Creek cartridge bearing headset and compatible fork that I’d bought for metaphorical pennies a year or so back.

The problem being, I didn’t have a suitable setting tool (rammer, in casual parlance). I didn’t want to purchase another, spending money and wasting time, so headed out to my local mechanic brandishing biscuits. They kindly set the crown race down, while I was doing a Tour De Morrisons and I returned the favour with a twin pack of chocolate digestives.

I returned and began building the frameset, having applied helicopter tape and old inner tube to select areas, coupled with liberal helpings of waxy corrosion inhibitor within the frame’s inner sanctum and allowing it 24 hours to cure. Liberal helpings of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice to the bearings, a lighter application to the crown race. Elsewhere, I opted for Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing since it’s a sturdy, carbon compatible blend.

Everything came together surprisingly easily, save for a schoolboy error-me mounting the new ring inboard of the crank spider, bring everything flush against the chainstay. An easy fix but consumed some time. Wheels and chain followed- I’d gone for the 40mm Continental Pure Contact since clearances allowed.

I’d opted for the beefy Izumi 410 and the 17tooth Halo sprocket means a gear of 69inches. Easily tensioned, I fitted the Gravel Hugger guards, then the Topeak Super Tourist DX 2.0 Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing- a light coating of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease on the treads and forming a seal so the elements couldn’t sneak past and cause mischief.  I decided to call it a day, popped the Mulo away. I revisited with fresh eyes two mornings later.                     

Some Leatt SPD arrived for testing but for the time being, I'm sticking with the ultra-dependable and long serving Shimano M540, switching the Leatt between Denise and Ursula to assess their mud shedding trail capabilities first.  The Leatt Endurance 6.0 are intended at cross country mountain bike and gravel audiences and have a reassuringly high specification. 6061T6 aluminium alloy bodies (shot peened to prevent stress fractures turn on cro-moly axles) and more interestingly, a LSL self-lubricating bushing, a needle bearing, and an industrial roller bearing. Quad seals promise to keep the grease in and elements out. Stainless steel bindings and Shimano pattern cleats continue the durable narrative.   

On the topic of mud, I continue to be impressed by the CST Patrol, which though not the lightest of cross-country rubber, seem to perform consistently well across a broad range of conditions, while proving highly puncture resistant. No punctures to date.

Loosely comparable with Continental Cross King- another cross-country design with quick rolling charms and modest weight but in my experience, prone to flats-flints and hedge clippings specifically. Continental have sent me the latest versions, which now feature the brands black chili technology. This is a sophisticated polymer promising to improve grip, rolling resistance and wear. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the CST Patrol, particularly on the reliability front. The Continental sport a similar tread pattern and also feature a fibrous puncture repelling weave beneath the belt.

Staying with puncture resistance, I’ve experienced two pinhole flats over the course of two consecutive rides with the rear Pirelli Cinturato, leading me to switch the rear for Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing Thankfully the tubes only succumbed to a tiny pin-prick, so easily patched and returned to the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing . The Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing has proven an absolute godsend on these occasions, especially since I needed to be back pronto to facilitate a few things.

During this phase, I removed Ursula and Denise’s seat posts, blasted some Supertrol into the seat tubes, added another lick of grease to the posts, refitted, nipping them to 5 and 6nm respectively with the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench. This also gave opportunity to refine Ursula’s saddle height, raising the Kinetic 2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing a further few millimetres.

 

Bearings, Blowouts & Broken Frames…

 

Good Friday came along and after a couple of weeks whizzing along the lanes and unmade roads aboard Denise, I decided it was time for a good clean, polish, and some light rest. I also reverted to the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather, since it’s a bit more stoical than the Motorex, but without attracting much grot.

I’d bought some replacement bearings as a standby for when the OEM Stronglight balls get choppy and indeed, this sealed cartridge bearing Tange come time the Stronglight needs retiring. It was only a few quid dearer than the A9ST.  

The generally dry spell had presented opportunity to top up the waxy corrosion inhibitor on the KA and Micra chassis, underbody, door and sills. It would cure quickly and lock the elements out.

Naturally, I also treated my steel framesets a quick blast through their “breathe holes”, since I was on this corrosion busting mission. These and similarly small jobs sorted, I decided it was time to dust the fixed gear winter/trainer down and give it a few outings. Our first confirmed I’d the chain tension a little too tight, inducing minor faff but I was more irked by myself not getting it right first time.

It was tempting to replace the budget chain for the higher end Izumi in some respects, but this was making unnecessary work for myself, especially since the budget brownie hadn't covered any significant mileage and would probably sit unused. Just a matter of sliding the wheel slightly further forward in the dropouts and fine tuning with the chain tugs.

Or so I thought… Regular washing, waxing and lightly lubricating stuff extends component life considerably. However, even simple drivetrains wear out and though I’d regularly replaced chains, I’d not changed the ring, or sprocket in a while. During this inspection, I also noted some corrosion around the frame’s chainstay bridge, which had also spread to the right-hand stay. The only sensible option was to strip the components and scrutinise properly, rather than speculate.

I generously grease stuff during installation, so bottom bracket and other threaded components all spun free with only modest effort.

Deep degreasing and close inspection of the Genetic Tibia ring revealed some hooking and related wear, so I ordered a replacement along with a 17tooth Halo fat sprocket. I’d a fresh UN55 bottom bracket in stock, so plucked that out, since it had been over four years since I last fitted one.  The biggest surprise was a healthy layering of Park Polylube TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES clinging to the chain ring bolts several years down the line.

The Mulo is arguably closer to a gravel, rather than cross build. Room for 700x40c, tapered head tube and bigger downtube for additional stiffness. On-One also opted for a more traditional mudguard bridge mount, albeit behind the wishbone mono-stay. The top tube cable run is also very different, but interestingly, On-One has retained cantilever (or V brake) posts.  Legally, fixed doesn’t require a mechanical rear brake, since the transmission is recognised as a secondary stopper. Hence, I only use a front brake.  More about that later…

Easter Sunday brought a blowout. I was a few miles from home, really enjoying Denise’s responsive but reliable persona. A loud pop was followed by a rapid and similarly audible hiss. Rummaging through the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing I found four tubes. However, seems I’d not patched two of them, evident when I began introducing some pressure from the Muc-Off Airmach Pump.

Having found suitably sound butyl and checked the rear Pirelli Cinturato for sharps and similar damage Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing   I whipped everything back together and got busy with the Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Pro. 55psi later I was homeward bound again. Having returned, I needed to adjust the Suntour SE rear brake slightly. An easy fix-done in three minutes with a 16mm cone wrench, 5mm Allen key and ring spanner.

I’m pleasantly surprised by the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Driver.  Preset torque wrenches have been around a while, but adjustable models are, in my view, what we need and becoming increasingly affordable.  

Ok, some folks will argue 4,5 and 6nm are still limited but they cover the sort of routine adjustments we’re likely to make mid ride. Raising, re-aligning (or dropping) the saddle a few millimetres, tweaking cleat tension, nipping stem, mudguard, bottle cage bolts tight etc. Oh, obviously you’ll still need a multi tool for slackening duties, otherwise (and in common with workshop models) you’ll risk damaging the mechanism.  

Just Changing A Cable

 

Needing a break from the screen, I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t behave.

Time is a finite resource, so I swapped over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast, this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had weathered somewhat.

The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was another contender.  

The bar bags were switched since I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.

These are very effective for rapid cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing  but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to fair weather conditions.

Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a 26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge remaining.

I'd made something a faux pas, believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench. Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.

However, I rapidly dismissed this as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.  

The Stronglight A9 headset was still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version employs ball, not cartridge bearings.  

Always better to replace the bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity. During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque wrench.   

All Terrain

 

 

Tyres switched to trail specific, I’ve been getting some decent mileage on Ursula, exploring some fresh bridleways and unmade roads, far from the maddening crowd. A great opportunity to drop a few gears and assess the Lomo Zephyr Waterproof pannier’s mounting hardware...is it more, or less secure compared with Rixen Kaul Klick Fix along lumpy, bumpy sections...  

It’s a design seemingly identical to that employed by Brae. They seem very compatible with 10mm rack tubing, but I was interested to note they’ve been marginally more secure on the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc, compared with its standard sibling. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing       

Lomo don’t cite a weight limit, but I’ve added this beefy Masterlock, bringing the present cargo to 5 kilos. Raising the saddle height by a few millimetres was another inspired move. The Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather continued to prove compatible with its Link Lube Dry stablemate, although it’s important to note I’d applied the All Weather once only trace amounts of Link Lube Dry clung to the links, rollers and cassette.  

Then of course, I found one of the KMC chain’s side plates beginning to splay, which was communicated via an intermittent clicking which initially suggested my right foot wasn’t fully engaged with the Shimano XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing cleat mechanism, thankfully, this struck at the close of, rather than mid-ride.  

I’m forming the conclusion that it's best to buy budget to mid-range chains pre-cut.  Again, an easy fix, pop the old link out and slip in another- a five-minute job, ten taking into account checking the other links for any potential damage, or obvious weakness.   

I’m still toying with purchasing a set of chain link pliers, which make cutting and joining chains that bit faster but only at the right price. Funnily enough, I’ve found the chain breaker on this Pedro's multi tool unusually accurate and ultimately pleasant to use.   

I decided to thoroughly degrease the drivetrain before applying some Motorex Chain Wax to the chain, since I fancied something lighter and cleaner. It's closer to a dry lube than a traditional wax but still requires several hours to cure-overnight is my default, though the visual clue is when it becomes a clear glaze.  

Temperatures were too low for the Blub Wax Lube Blub Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing  to cure effectively and as I’ve said before, it will require reapplication if the bike’s been resting up longer than 48 hours or so.  

My love for Shimano’s MW7Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing booties is well versed but generally drier conditions have seen me return to gravel shoes, specifically these Shimano RX6 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing  . These have a similarly stiff sole, which is great for efficiency but without impairing walking, or running prowess.  Hedge clipping season signalled another flat-Ursula's rear Continental Cross King succumbing a mile or so from home.

That annoying, demoralising hiss and wet “futting” as I whizzed through the wet, muddied lane...No biggie- spare tube, check tyre casing, replace tube and reinflate. I always carry a pump of some kind but have been increasingly smitten with mini compressors. My favourite to date being this CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E. Pump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing which lives in Denise’s  luggage along with the Muc-Off Air Mach Carbon Pump Muc Off Airmach Carbon Pump | cycling-not-racing 

However, a decent hand pump is a lifeline, should the battery tank, or maybe you’ve had a couple of flats during a ride and before opportunity to recharge the mini compressor, or you’re out of CO2 cartridges. I’ve reached the conclusion that a frame fit model, such as this Topeak  Road Master Blaster Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing, or Zefal HPX (which is rumoured to be discontinued). Both will comfortably manage 100psi.  I’ve resurrected this Specialized Air Tool Switch, which at 25cm is compact enough to slip into a rack top bag, away from spatter and other destructive, wet gritty stuff.  

The Cross Kings do seem a little vulnerable to sharps, so I am contemplating a more resilient option at the rear- a look through my tyre stash will doubtless turn up something suitable-use what you got, after all. On the flip side, this new phase of hedge cutting provides ideal opportunity to evaluate the Pirelli Cinturato's puncture resistance...