Women have interests, Men have obsessions

 

A common remark and anecdotally, quite accurate. There are varying degrees of this, but I will confess to having an obsessive streak, although in day-to-day life, am very adept at keeping these in check. The ability to obsessively tweak, refine and adjust stuff (with episodic euphoria and despair) can prove all encompassing.   

The wait for a new headset brought with it time to reflect and some switching round of the fleet. I’ve decided to take the fixed gear winter/trainer a more minimalist route, switching the Topeak Super Tourist DX over to Ursula and porting the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) back over. This has meant the front end is now heavier than the rear, primarily down to the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) dyno hub front wheel.  

A week of torrential showers led to some very muddy lanes and hedge clippings flushed from the verges, spelled punctures. Mercifully, these were pedestrian and only made themselves known several hours post ride when I was home. Tiny holes, so easily patched and no obvious damage to the tyres. I have switched Denise’s front from the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to the Maxxis Ravager TR Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which are slightly friskier and more resistant to thorns and hedge clippings.  The perpetually wet conditions are brilliant for evaluating waterproof kit, including these Shimano MW7 booties, which have stiffer soles and Boa fasteners for a precise fit.  

As I’ve said before, water will creep in via the cleat drillings, but this is easily subverted with waterproof socks. Will also be interesting to see how well the Oxford Mint Bicycle Assembly grease copes with the darker, colder and wetter conditions. Yes, I assembled the cleat hardware with it.     

With the Topeak Super Tourist DX switched, the Ravemen TR100 now clings limpet like from the fixed’s mono stay. 

Headset issues resolved courtesy of this FSA and another spacer, I bolted the front end back together, applying lashings of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. The lower race bearings are cartridge, the upper balls, but if you’re going the hybrid route, this is the way things should go. While both upper and lower races feature seals, I’m a believer in liberal amounts of grease to keep things buttery smooth and pitting free.  

 

 

I’ve also gone belt n’ braces, fitting a butyl tube boot to the lower race to lock winter right royally out.  Front end reinstated and behaving perfectly, I turned my attentions to the drivetrain, wiring up the STX front mech, fitting a chain. I left the front mech cable stretching for twenty minutes, on the big ring and then pulled it through before turning my attentions to the rear.  

 

To my horror, nothing would sync. Closer inspection revealed I’d been seduced by the lure of a bargain shifter, only to discover it’s an MTB version. Inconvenient, but I’m to blame and it’s hardly the world’s end. I had a quick wander round the web, bought another, double checking it was the road version. Not such a bargain, but still favourable and moreover, the right model.   

  

The pull ratio for road and mtb are different, hence the issue. Trying to get it to mesh would be an exercise in futility and wasted time. I’d also noted the inner wire had also frayed annoyingly, but not altogether surprising, since it was a workshop basic, rather than premium quality unit. Sometimes we get bargains but in keeping with life generally, we get what we pay for. Often, there’s not a massive jump in price between staple and mid-range.  The left-hand side was fine, given front mechs aren’t indexed.  

 

Some more enforced leave but crucially progress is being made and the headset issue, sorted. Just a question of wiring in the new bar con, dialling the rear mech in, wrapping the bars and maybe tweaking the rear brake. During this episode, I managed to break the pin of a rather nice chain tool- weird since everything was correctly aligned, and I wasn’t applying undue force…My first attempt to wash the bar wrap didn’t remove as much of the oily patina as I’d first hoped, so I gave that a degreaser pre-wash, agitated that with my Oxford Tyre scrub and then tossed it in the machine at 30 degrees, along with some equally funky riding kit.  So near, yet so far…

 

You Never Know What’s around the Corner.

 

Belting along a wet, greasy backroad, just past sunrise I was suddenly serenaded by an awful loss of traction and disconcerting chatter- the fixed’s chain had derailed. I’m not sure who was more horrified- me, or the feline preening itself as I entered the bend. Pulling over to the left I discovered it had mysteriously jammed between the chain tugs. A moment of panic quickly subsided, and I reached inside the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry BagTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)for my Pedros Trixie and Pedros’ multi tool, so I could slacken the tug and the track nut.  

I was relieved to find these and doing so released the chain without incident. I hooked it back on the sprocket and front ring checked alignment and snugged the track nut down, ditto the chain tug. Tension sorted, I continued, relieved I wouldn’t be doing a ten-mile walk of shame. I’d just pulled in at home and discovered the front WTB Exposure rapidly losing pressure.  

Well, if it was going to happen, now would be most convenient. One thing led to another. Popped the fixed gear winter/trainer on the work stand, whipped out the wheel and traced the flat to a hedge clipping buried in the tyre’s shoulder. I nearly missed it, having swept my hand around the Exposure’s casing, found nothing and instated a new tube. Thankfully, I was able to free it with this set of needle-nose pliers. Tyre remounted and 70psi inside, I found myself busy with sudsy bucket and Green Oil Massive brush, giving my faithful friend a good clean.  

While cleaning the Spyre SLC calliper, I noticed the semi-metallic pads were OK but showing signs of wear. With more taxing conditions coming, sintered seemed the way forward. Always prudent to have consumables set by, since stuff often wears out at the least convenient moments. I also found another two 10speed chains while having a rummage for a suitable tube (not wanting to deplete the on-bike supply). The Ravemen LR1000 continues to impress me with its output and features- the ability to extend run times, refuel tech and indeed, the battery via another battery or power bank. The Wired remote doesn’t come with the package, I got curious and tried that belonging to the LR500 but being a few years old, the port end was micro-USB, while the LR1000 is the contemporary USB C.  

 I’ve also received this Zefal Supervision R150, which as the name suggests is a rear light producing 150lumens.  IPX6 for weatherproofing bodes well for wet winters and 5 modes (3 steady, two flashing) continue the practical narrative. I’m pleased to note a 15-lumen steady, which is punchy but not overpowering for town duties. The flashing are 150 and 50 lumens, which is great for daylight running and dark nights but overkill for other contexts, which may be a turn off for some. Weirder is the fact it isn’t supplied with a USB C charge cable. Given these things are ubiquitous and dirt cheap (unless that’s the logic for its omission) I’m astonished as to why one hasn’t been tossed in as standard. There are some other interesting quirks. The switch requires a sustained three-second press before the light will power up/down, a second longer than typical these days, which initially convinced me I must have a duff unit that wasn’t charging properly .      

Bike cleaned, re-lubed and put away, it was time to do a quick stint with Ursula. Fitting the headset and forks, specifically. Everything came together nicely, the new Stronglight unit given a liberal bed of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice.   

Inspecting the long serving One23 stem led me to pensioning it off- there was some weakness around the lips. It had done ten years or so and owed nothing. Took a while to track down a suitable substitute, but this ZOOM has proven to be perfect-a quick game of musical spacers and all sorted.  I also ordered some fresh stainless steel bottle boss screws from another supplier.  

I’m all for re-using good stuff but rebuilds are an opportunity to inspect, evaluate and replace things, as necessary. Unless they’re dog eared, I tend to put unwanted fasteners into the spares pot and carry a couple in a sealed packet on the bike, just in case I should lose something-a mudguard, or light mount for example. These and the cages were fitted during the same session and using the Oxford Mint Assembly Grease.        

Slower Dawns & New Seasons Lights

 

 

Dawn is taking longer; the leaves are beginning to fall and clump by the roadsides now. Slowly, but surely. I took the opportunity to strip and re-grease some components using the Mint Assembly Grease-Denise's pedal threads were obvious candidates, since I also wanted to see how effective the Park SS-15 was at shifting pedals.  

The right side came adrift effortlessly, but for some reason, the left Shimano PED ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) proved quite arthritic. Not to the point where I’d needed to resort to my lofty Lezyne, or indeed, penetrant spray but unexpectedly stiff, nonetheless.  

A moderate helping was also given to cleat hardware, since, if forecasts were to be believed, I might be reaching for the MW7 booties more often than expected. I’ve finished testing mitts and so switched to Madison Flux Waterproof Trail Gloves.  

Available in four colours and made from a Polyester Polyamide (53% Recycled) 20% Polyurethane mix they’re marketed as a model for changeable seasons. Madison says autumn to winter but I’m thinking the cooler end of Spring too, evidenced by the mid length and relatively shallow cuffs. These are elasticated, rather than Velcro for quick, faff free donning.  

The backs are waterproof, reinforced with taped internal seams. Internally there’s a Roubaix type fleece lining for when the temperatures and tanking but with very modest bulk, which coupled with the silicone detailing promises to optimise connection with the bars.  

Oh, and the thumb and forefingers are touch screen friendly, eliminating the frustrating need to remove them to make a call, or engage with bar mounted tech. As I’ve remarked on several occasions, I have mixed experiences with ulnar defending palms and sometimes a flat profile is the best fit. It’s a bit early to comment but our introduction is a pleasant one.     

Wet, gloopy lanes had also consumed the NZero Dry Wax Lubricant, Nzero Dry Wax Lubricant | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) so I reverted to the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain LubeWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which has proven clean and stoical, yet not stodgy, or grime seductive. 

Continuing the seasonal theme, we’ve been sent these Ravemen lights. High power dynamos are my go-to's for general winter riding but I’m also a fan of potent rechargeable systems. Aside from master blasters with external battery packs, such as the XR6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and Sigma Sport’s long serving Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which are great for trail duties  Ravemen’s LR range has also impressed with their quality of output. The lens projects a combination of spot and flood yet is designed so it *won’t dazzle oncoming traffic. They seem much brighter than the numbers alone would suggest. The LR500S RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a case in point.  

Sure, I’d prefer one of its bigger siblings for regular riding along unlit lanes, but I have been able to tackle these at 17mph on a relatively clear night. This time, I’ve received the LR1000 and TR100 units to see how they compare with the LR1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and TR200 Ravemen TR200 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

1300 lumens are my benchmark for the backroads but even though I default to dynamos, especially on the fixed gear winter/trainer, I always carry a second light in case I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical miles from home.  Otherwise, I tend to run them as companions and in flashing modes. Some models, including the LR1600 have sensored technology, which alters the output to suit conditions and ultimately, optimises battery life.   

Compact high-power models with integral batteries tend to have short run times in the higher modes, which is a consideration if you’re doing a lot of night riding and along unlit roads.  Hedge clipping season coupled with wet, mucky roads has announced puncture season. I’ve had two in the space of two rides. Mercifully, one struck just as I’d returned home, the second 5 miles away.  

I was very grateful for the Muc Off Air Mach pump. Very intuitive and relatively efficient by genre standards, even on higher volume tyres. Admittedly, these days, the CycPlus AS2 Pro Max EPump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is my go-to but I’d never go without a reliable backup. Thankfully, a single tyre lever was all I needed to coax the WTBV Nano off the rim-I'd been a little remiss and this served as a reminder to pack some more.