Mid-range Power & Medium Cage Musings

 

After some deliberation, I happened upon a medium cage 10 speed Tiagra rear mech at a very favourable price, so indulged on the basis it would come in handy. Whether Ursula’s existing and long serving Tiagra turned sloppy, or I fancied running a 32 tooth rea sprocket for some additional winching prowess, when towing a trailer, or heavily laden panniers. Of course, it arrived and needing a break from the screen, I elected to switch things around. A simple job. I’d not touched the short cage mech save for minor adjustments, cable replacement and cleaning since Ursua’s refurbishment two years ago. The frame mounting bolt proved a little arthritic, so I squirted some MO94 and allowed it to seep in a few seconds.

 The last thig I wanted was to risk the frame thread’s integrity. The bolt released easily and I was pleasantly surprised to find some Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing clinging to the threads, but another reminder about regreasing at least annually. I reached for the Zefal Pro ii Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing this time round, which I’ve found a very durable, corrosion resistant default.  

Cable connected, chain fitted, everything seemed to be moving up and down the block snappily enough while Ursula was held by the Topeak Flashstand e Up  Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing . Proof of the pudding is in the riding, so I hopped indoors for some food and headed out an hour later. Much the same story for 10 miles and then some clicky hesitation. I initially thought this might be a b screw tweak, something I’d tackle upon my return…

Upon powering away from a concealed junction, I was serenaded by a loud ping and loss of power transfer. Inconvenient, but an easy fix, provided you’ve some spare links and a magic link connecting pin. Oh, and a chain tool. In this instance that belonging to my beloved Topeak Alien ii. Five minutes later and we were homeward bound, harmony restored.

Another mixed terrain ride the following morning confirmed this. Rains- heavy showery interludes struck and though I’d left out sans micro jacket, the cooling precipitation felt delightful after several weeks of sustained intense heat and drought. It also presented the perfect opportunity to see how hydrophobic the Leatt glasses and shoes were.   I also treated the long-serving short cage Tiagra mech to a seriously deep clean. It wasn’t obviously mucky.

A liberal blast of Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing quickly flushed out embedded wax from the derailleur's inner sanctum and jockey wheels, resulting in a shallow, oily pool, which was strangely satisfying. I'd treated the mech’s inner sanctum to a further stiff brush tickling for optimal effect. Rinsed, dried and a shot of MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing later, inspection revealed the mech was mobile and slop free, so was popped in the drivetrain spares box.

I'd been experiencing some intermittent disc tickling (as distinct from rub) at the rear and had reached the conclusion it was down to friction, specifically attributable to the galvanised steel cable that was used since it was "in stock". Some further wandering around the web suggests the 287's design is another contributory factor. I've had no problems up front, although the cable run is much cleaner and I'm running a pre-lubed premium grade stainless inner wire.

I noted a little additional stretch at the cable, so pulled it through, and dialled the lever's 2mm nipple screw down to ensure complete release, theoretically eliminating drag. I'd also ordered some replacement stainless inner wires, since they're a workshop staple. Chances are, I'd be wanting to upgrade the galvanised stand-in due course, certainly before winter.

An easy fix and a metaphor for wider life. Sometimes things are a work in progress. Take a break but persevere until you're speaking their language and have them sussed. Little breakthroughs can be incredibly satisfying. 

Continuing the sticky theme, the sprung mount assembly on the Yak homage had gummed up, meaning they weren't closing on the skewer hitch. Something that caught me by surprise on our second laden outing. Just a question of easing them closed, then giving the sprung components a liberal blast of MO94 upon returning home.

Snappier engagement and secure tenure sorted, I could let rip and cruise in confidence, although I was considering making a shim from old butyl for the skewer hitch to provide a more tenacious, vibration- busting connection. With Denise's KMC chain registering north of.5, I decided to replace and fit the medium cage Tiagra mech- another straightforward twenty-minute job.

I'd acquired a replacement spring kit with the trailer, just in case the original failed and replacements proved hard to come by. The only minor niggle I've got with the mighty Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc | cycling-not-racing concerns their pronounced feet. These prevent me from tethering the Yak homage.

Now arguably most tourists would run either panniers, or trailer, but there are times, say when running errands, or collecting stuff when you'd want to pair the two. Since the frame only features a single eyelet, I can’t position the rack higher, thus providing suitable clearance. Hmm, I’ll reflect and consider my options.

I've also been putting in some decent miles with the Leatt ProClip 6.0 Trail Boa MTB Shoes. Soles strike a good balance of efficient power transfer and walkability- stiffer than the Shimano GTX. For the most part, I've paired them with a traditional cross-country spud, but wasn'’t surprised to find models with bigger surface areas the ideal marriage. I've gone for the dual side Shimano M530 and ED500, the latter being a road-biased touring design- very solid and supportive, albeit with a slight weight penalty. 

Mud clearance won't match that of a true cross country, or trail model, but still better than I'd expect. I've had no issues clipping in/out, provided things aren't too boggy. They're also a doddle to strip and service Simple Pedal Overhaul | cycling-not-racing 

Given twenty minutes along wet roads, I wasn't surprised to find some water had crept in through the Leatt's cleat drillings. Slightly damp soles with traditional merino blend socks, but there's scope for waterproof designs, including these Muc-Off, which have been firm favourites of mine and served me well through some decidedly wet, winter rides.  Staying with Leatt, I’ll close here with my review of their Ride Viz Pro Small Clear PhotochromicSunglasses The Leatt Ride Viz Pro Small Clear Photo | cycling-not-racing

       

 

Subtle Gains & False Economies

 

Cables replaced and firmer conclusions cemented regarding the Continental Terra CompetitionTrails’ dirt prowess The Continental Terra Competition Trail | cycling-not-racing, it was time to strip the drivetrain of residual Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing and reapply another wax- the KMC Go, since I had ample left and it was closest to hand.

Checking the chain’s health, I was pleased to discover it was only .25, which was another incentive for sticking with wax lubes. I decided to retire Denise's 11-25 cassette in favour of an 12-28 since I had a Microshift in stock. The Tiagra was the original and outlasted six chains. Shifts were still smooth, but I noticed some very occasional skipping when climbing on the small ring. The cassette switch and some long climbs confirmed my suspicions and crucially solved the issue. Going by the book, the chain would’ve gone too, but wear was minimal and I wanted to be sure.

I like Tiagra- it might lack glamour but is a relatively inexpensive and durable component group with decent performance. 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25 and 28 are more road-centric than a gravel setup but paired with the 175mm 36x26 rings gives a range between 24.4 and 78.8 inches. Closer to that found on older cyclo cross rigs and crucially, well suited to my riding needs. Longer-term, when the rear mech finally turns sloppy, I will consider a long arm version and a 12-30-tooth cassette as a bail out, or trailer winching option. 

Spring’s tepid start had been eclipsed by some very balmy weather, the mercury reaching 27 degrees over the bank holiday weekend. Ideal conditions for testing summer riding kit.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Altura Airstream Jersey’s wicking prowess- I could literally feel sweat being wicked through the perforated shoulders. The BBB Karma MIPS also gulps in plenty of cooling air. Steve’s been suitably impressed by Castelli’s Espresso 2 bib shorts.Castelli Espresso 2 Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing and jersey Castelli Espresso2 Jersey | cycling-not-racing

Even at these temperatures, the KMC (and Muc-Off) have demonstrated good temperature stability, turning slightly soft, rather than becoming a gooey mess. A hairdryer on high heat, coupled with warmer weather has also helped traffic the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing deep within the Wellgo 823’s inner sanctum, turning them close to buttery smooth and completely silent.

I say close since they’re cheerful cheapies. While adjustable, come time bearings get the grumbles they won’t owe anything but unless you’ve a free hand in axles, bearings etc, rebuilding may prove uneconomic.

Go for their MO94B WELLGO MO94B SPD PEDALS | cycling-not-racing cousins, or Shimano’s justly revered 520 if you’re looking to strip, service and possibly rebuild. Alignment of the auction site’s Garmin mount lacks the outright precision of some, but easily corrected post ride while I was snugging the stem face bolts down.  

I’m planning to fit the other to Ursula, when I get round to the bar, stem, and brake lever switch, but no rush, given the positioning is right and existing components are very serviceable.

Sometimes, these auction site “bargains” can be false economy- rubberised crank arm and brake lever protectors being two prime examples. Buy a decent set, such as these Zefal ZEFAL CRANK ARMOR | cycling-not-racing and they’ll last, quickly recouping the initial investment. Action camera mounts can also fall into this category, although I’ve found some cheap and cheerful designs. That clinging to Denise’s Genetic Neuron GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing being another case in point.  Switching Muffin’s Vittoria Adventure Tech for the Maxxis Roamer proved a welcome move.

The Vittoria roll better than I’d expect from coarse 27tpi casings and there’s not much separating them but even at loftier pressures, the folding 42mm 60tpi Roamer are supple and compliant, giving a nice, magic carpet ride across lumpy lanes. There’s also scope for less challenging dirt roads, byways and bridleways.         

 

Season of the hiss, Gravel & Grinding Gears

 

Wet muddy lanes and embedded sharps have declared the puncture season open- the first penetrating the Maxxis RamblerMaxxis Rambler Tubeless Ready Tyres | cycling-not-racing and several rides later, the Continental Pure Contact finally succumbed. Slow punctures, mercifully meaning they were only apparent when I’d reached home and not completely flaccid at that stage. Sometimes it’s the little things. Both were easily patched, although I’d replaced both with fresh butyl.

Standard practice wherever possible, keep the patched tubes as spares. My only minor misgiving about the Continentals is they are a very tight fit-less problematic when mounting but can tax tyre levers (yes, you’ll want two, ideally three). By the third patch, I’m consigning them to scrap. Saw a bundle of five going for a very favourable price, so wasted no time purchasing.    

The conditions presented opportunities to don the Sidi Algor, and I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the sole’s balance of stiffness and walkability. These are rated 5 on Sidi’s stiffness scale, but their rigidity is palpably better than the Shimano MW5 Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing-particularly apparent when riding fixed where honking on the climbs is mandatory.

Having dismounted and run up some fairly steep climbs, I’ve found the Algor’s soles less grippy, but they may bed in over time.  I’ve since switched to Ursula and indulged in some further exploration of unmade roads and bridleways, which will provide better insight into their off-road prowess.

Opportunity also presented, so I dressed Denise’s WTB drops in the Ergon Orthro cell bar tape. At 230cm long per side, there’s oodles of it, and at one point, I thought I might be able to dress the big, swoopy bars using a single roll. Spoiler alert, I couldn’t but came frustratingly close, even wrapping around the hoods “figure of eight”. Nonetheless, there was plenty of scope if you ran a tri bar setup, or a gravel model, such as Redshift Sports Top Shelf family.  

I was also surprised to discover how much backing adhesive the Silica Nastro PilotiSilca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing left behind after a few months and only modest weathering. That’s a statement of fact, dare I say, surprise, rather than a criticism.  I’ve been contemplating going over to a 12-28 cassette with Denise, giving some slightly lower gearing, since its medium cage will manage 28teeth without turning cannibal.

Temptation is to wear the medium mech out, go for a long arm cage and 11-34 tooth cassette, giving a more touriste range, but without going gravel’s monster 9-42 1x route. Now, I’m going to preface this by saying gearing is a very personal choice with a wealth of influencing factors, including rider strength, terrain, and luggage. Late 80s onward, touring lorries and mountain bikes tended to share groupsets, and I’ve little doubt this is a big influence. Back in 1991, I had a 19-inch bottom gear on my Super Dalesman and found myself needing to tame an impromptu wheelie when powering away from a junction in the wee small hours.        

I’m very fond of the gravel genre in the broad strokes sense- it’s the all-terrain, spirit of escape thing. Bar bags and capacious seat packs also speak to me. However, while bike packing luggage certainly has its place, I prefer luggage that doesn’t rest against the frame. Therefore, the trend for removing mudguard and rack eyelets does nothing for me. 

Racks are easily and inexpensively repainted, framesets less so. I also tend to dress the tubing in scrap butyl to prevent wear- this M Part Summit M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing is starting to show some minor chips several months down the trail. True, panniers can limit the ability to sneak through winding, narrow singletrack and they do add precious grams, not to mention some air resistance. You do you, I’ll do me and we’ll agree to differ.  

For me, the beefy all-terrain tourer and drop bar cross country mountain bike still have tremendous value and though slower and portlier than a gravel bike, cope better when the roads and trails become rougher and in the latter context, boggier. Indeed, machines such as Specialized’s Tri-Cross might be better options than a gravel bike, if you were seeking a do most.

Admittedly, it’s no longer a production model, 6061 aluminium alloy tubes and the lack of disc mounts on earlier versions might be a turn off for some, but I’m told later models swallow 700x40c with 8mm to spare. Whichever route you take, there will always be some element of compromise, and in keeping with life generally, it’s about those that best compliment you, or have minimum negative impact.

 

 

      

Double Pleasure

 

No, not that sort-I’m referring to a 36/26 Deore Crankset complete with front mech and cables for less than the cost of a couple of rings. Be rude not to, since I was bound to wear Denise’s existing Deore 1x at some point in the not-too-distant future- it was the original ring and had served on Ursula before that.

Denise’s existing KMC chain was registering .5 on the chain checker. Late middle age in chain terms, so another thing I would need to be switching at some point.

While there was still some life in the existing KMC, I decided to mount the crankset, before going for a front mech and (bar con) shifter route. This was to check whether the existing 106 links was sufficient, or whether I might need 108. I’d some pre-cut (106 link) chains in stock, so would be nice if that was so.

In terms of front mech, given the frameset’s age, I reasoned, like Ursula, the seat tube was 28.6 and had originally looked for another STX. However, front mechs are fairly crude beasts, so I wasn’t going to pay over the odds. This top pull SR Suntour triple was along similar lines and seemed a good bet, especially teamed with a Microshift bar end shifter, which offered plenty of scope for adjustment and fine-tuning.

Before the crankset and front mech arrived, I’d gone on a quick “Easter Egg” hunt for shifter, cables, pre-cut chain and set them aside. The following morning, having returned from a ride, I decided to measure up (guestimate) for the front mech’s positioning, removing the seat tube bottle cage and applying some helicopter tape where the mech’s band on clamp would most likely rest.

Next, I noticed some mysteriously chipped paint on the seat stay carrier boss. Out with the fastener and a quick lick of high-build primer followed-another little job off the list. Since I also needed to reposition the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp, so decided to install the Microshift bar end shifter, one that had commanded Ursula’s STX front mech, prior to the frame’s repair, modernisation and makeover.

I didn’t want to get to the point of no return, rather where I could progress but without being committed, able to break and reflect as required. Just as well, since the gear cable housing I’d ordered hadn’t materialised. I’m sure I had some but ordered more. I wanted to check 106 links was of the correct length and, given the existing was 106 and still had sufficient life, I bolted the 2X Deore crankset in situ and set everything up to ride.

 Afterall, if the Crane Cousins could journey to the centre of the earth sans front mech, I could for a week, or two.  While we all like stuff that comes together first time and with minimal faff, there’s something very satisfying about fine tuning.  At this point, I was suddenly struck, dare I say attacked by a horrific thought- that the mech wouldn’t reach the rings. Offering the mech up quashed this anxiety and also confirmed its ideal mounting point-phew! 

On the stand, everything seemed to behave and the rear mech didn’t look unduly strained and was replicated in subsequent rides, so when some Shimano gear cables arrived, I removed the chain, offered the SR Suntour mech up and, it fouled the rear tyre…Confidence drained from me like a straining tea bag. Two options…Buy a new mech, an STX or Deore LX from this period. Or…Switch Ursula’s STX for the SR Suntour. I did both.

Found a Deore LX for less than £10 and was relieved to discover ample room between Ursula’s rear tyre, even with a 2.3. Given I wasn’t going the triple route, I was confident the SR Suntour would play nicely, and it did. A fresh inner wire, some adjustment of the H/L screws, and the cage scooped the chain back and forth dutifully. Cable pruned and glued, I turned my attention to Denise. Existing KMC chain split, I mounted the STX, fitted a fresh KMC and wired everything up. To my relief, save for some tweaking of the limit screws, the cage swept the chain between rings.

Some would argue mullet drivetrains are a better bet and on some technical grounds, I’d agree, but the 36/26 11-25 setup gives me a good, knee-friendly spread between 28.4 and 89 inches. I’d also been toying with replacing the Suntour XC SE cantilever. These are a rear-specific design from the late 1980s and still offer decent performance. However, adjustment is a little more involved compared with a traditional cantilever. I was also seeking something period-sensitive but without paying period prices

Tektro CR720 were an obvious default-sensibly priced and certainly up to the job…Then someone waved these NOS (New Old Stock) Kore under my nose for less than £10. A third of the Tektro’s rrp, so no debate there. Again, I needed to replace the inner wire, and wanted to inspect and most likely, re-grease the bosses, so then was the time.

By contrast, the Kore were very easy to set up- I just added some sped grease to the bosses, slotted everything in situ, and adjusted with a 5mm Allen key and 10mm ring spanner. The left balance screw needed a quick turn-using a 3mm Allen key common to all modern multi-tools. Talking of which, I'm off to fine-tune the rear mech.

 

Road to Christmas Recovery

I was suddenly struck by the seemingly inevitable and unavoidable seasonal Lurgi. One that left me bedridden for the best part of two days and asleep for 18 hours straight. I’d struggled to remain alert for 6 hours and managed 75% of a draft alongside some other generic admin. Sabre Tooth Man-Flu is a force to be reckoned with.  

Retrospectively I’d felt it charging full force on Sunday when I was switching wheels and giving the fixed gear winter/trainer a seriously good sudsy bucket clean. Neighbour had struck up conversation, while affixing Christmas lights to their wooden fascia and I was struggling to maintain a decent tempo of routine work and response.  

Night terrors are another obvious sign for me. There are people my rational mind knows I could not help and for the most part, their deaths were beyond my control, but the world and human experience are not necessarily rational. Sometimes, during these nightmares, I will meet the figures at the end of a long tunnel. Other times, their decomposing entities can be sat at the foot of my bed, seemingly begging my attention. Sometimes they are benevolent and kind, other times vengeful and malevolent. Not where we’ve been and done but what we do with these experiences, I guess.  

Two days later and I was back in the saddle- the fixed gear winter/trainer’s to be precise. This proved a little “previous” and I was struggling to move. For context, I slept 18 hours, during the first phase of this germ fest and was fooled into feeling better. Predictably in retrospect, I succumbed to a second helping. One synonymous with sinus headaches and similar pain. I ultimately reached for the paracetamol and lemon mix, which seemed to loosen the mucus floodgates and the intense pressure that dogged my ability to function. Sometimes enforced rest is what’s needed.  

I’m sticking with the Halo Aerotrack wheel and 15-tooth Ti sprocket, which with the 35mm CST Expedium and 42 tooth 165mm Genetic Tibia cranks translates as 76.1-inch gear. Some would suggest a little lower-72 maybe, but in practice, I’m not spinning out, or indeed, struggling to winch myself up the climbs.  

Saddleback, Feedback Sports UK importer graciously sent me the brands’ Reflex Torque Wrench. Ita a mini torque wrench, designed for mid-ride adjustments-adjusting saddle tight, tightening a slipping stem bolt etc. 5nm is the maximum, too low for things like Shimano Hollowtech II cranks, so you’ll still want to carry a traditional multi-tool (although you should anyhow, since torque wrenches are only designed for assembly).  

Prevents unintentional damage of carbon fibre components and indeed, aluminium alloy components. Exceed the 5nm recommended on a seat collar bolt at your peril- I’ve seen the bolts snap/ shear clean off. Not what you’d want 20 miles from base.       Last bucket wash, I’d gone for a proper drivetrain clean and opted for the Zefal Extra Wet Nano Ceramic Chain Lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  (a) It was to hand (b) I’ve found it stays put and requires negligible time to cure.  

Ursula’s sticking with the Silca Secret Formula Chain Lube. Was relieved to get a call from Mick Madgett saying he’d replaced the Halo Spin Doctor’s Freehub. Upon collection, conversation turned to the hub’s internal composition and specialist tooling e.g. circlips.  

Apparently not. However, it took two of them to release the defunct freehub-knew there was a reason I outsourced that job! I put a lick of Wolf Tooth Grease on the free hub and cassette lockring and spun everything back together- tyre too. Will give the XT/Ryde pairing a few runs for the time being. They’ve also got the spikes on, which may come in handy, depending how conditions turn in the coming weeks.  

Regardless of how wintry the lanes have been, the Shimano MW501 have kept my feet dry and very temperate, the sole offering plenty of grip on slippery stuff and generally improving my riding experience through these dark December days.  

The heel cup and nimbler feel means they’re quickly becoming my favourites. I was very endeared to a pair of Lake, which lasted many years. However, the Shimano’s fit feels closer to that of a cyclocross/gravel shoe than a traditional mtb bootie, which for me, is more agreeable.  

The Madison Roam 2 jacket is also proving a well-conceived garment for not a lot of money. Decent fit, sensible pockets, useable hood and Velcro cuffs for a convincing seal against the elements. I prefer removable hoods but thus far, the Roam’s hasn’t made a nuisance of itself, when not required. On that note, I’ll leave you with an overview of clothing for the cooler, wetter months...WINTER WONDERLAND TWO (sevendaycyclist.com)