Revisions & Regaining Trust

 

I’d found myself a little tentative, following the blowout and subsequent long walk home with Denise. Rationally, I’d switched the tube, replaced the rim tape- both fresh, so no reason I’d succumb to a mechanical. I’d also given the cassette and chain a good clean, stripping the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather for its dry counterpart. The chain was worn to .5, so still had some life, maybe three hundred miles, depending on conditions.

Against this backdrop, I’d decided the best tactic was to pop out on a shorter evening loop-8 miles, taking in some gravel and rougher roads, ruling out any tyre, or tube issues and also getting a better idea of how the big wide, swoopy WTB bars would improve control in these contexts.

I’m still very fond of the original Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and would recommend them to those seeking a shallow reach drop, whether it be a cyclo cross, touring, or drop bar mountain bike. However, the WTB Mountain Road Drop definitely have an edge on the control front off road. I’d forgotten how good they were and so glad I kept them. On-One’s Midge were another surprisingly good budget buxom bar and these were also available in 25.4 and 31.8, catering for old school mountain bike stems and obviously, more contemporary models.

The larger diameter was less whippy, giving a more direct feel on the road but without feeling harsh off road. Aside from the control factor, flared drops open the chest cavity further, improving climbing prowess on longer ascents, which is something I’ve traditionally enjoyed on the fixed gear winter trainer.

However, I’ve settled to subtle riser drops, these Genetic D-Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing have struck the best balance for road duties, their D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing arguably win by a nose if gravel, cyclo cross and possibly trailer tugging duties are your primary duties.

The other advantage the Genetic offer over the likeable Soma is uniform diameter across the top section, meaning accessories are easier to fit.  More subtle designs such as the Genetic also have an advantage when riding into headwinds, given the narrower surface area.      

Five miles under the tyres, turning right along a section of disused airfield I began to relax, engaging with the evening sun and letting rip. Though I hadn’t intended to change the bars, this proved an inspired choice and sensibly undertaken when the bike was already awaiting minor work. I’ll switch the Leatt Endurance 6.0 over to Denise and the M540 back to Muffin.

The Leatt 6.0 have proven very impressive on the fixed. The Cro-moly axles and 6061 bodies provide a very rigid, supportive platform, which was particularly apparent when climbing out of the saddle or otherwise accelerating hard. Obviously, Muffin’s relatively lofty bottom bracket and 165mm cranks help, but there’s generous clearance, so no fear of grounding a pedal during enthused cornering. The black anodised finish is also wearing well with the regular clippings in and out. Bearings are not only incredibly well sealed but employ needle and ball bearings.  It will be interesting to see how they fare off road.    

Staying with off road rubber a moment, here’s my review of the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing

I’d had Muffin’s Giant Continuum 9 Wireless Computer head unit go rogue. Changing the CR2032 cell seemed the most obvious solution-the sensor cells can go with little warning, regardless of whether premium or generic cells are used. I always apply a thin lick of Vaseline or silicone grease to the contacts, optimising connectivity, while sealing the elements out.

However, the head unit would not calibrate correctly, so I decided to salvage what I could- CR2032 cell, fork sensor and silicone casing, since Ursula and Denise still run them. I’ve had a year’s service out of it, and some might say my £9 worth. I spotted some NOS Blackburn computers and went for a pair, just in case another of the Continuum should fail unexpectedly.    I’ll close here with this review of the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing

    

 

Bearings, Blowouts & Broken Frames…

 

Good Friday came along and after a couple of weeks whizzing along the lanes and unmade roads aboard Denise, I decided it was time for a good clean, polish, and some light rest. I also reverted to the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather, since it’s a bit more stoical than the Motorex, but without attracting much grot.

I’d bought some replacement bearings as a standby for when the OEM Stronglight balls get choppy and indeed, this sealed cartridge bearing Tange come time the Stronglight needs retiring. It was only a few quid dearer than the A9ST.  

The generally dry spell had presented opportunity to top up the waxy corrosion inhibitor on the KA and Micra chassis, underbody, door and sills. It would cure quickly and lock the elements out.

Naturally, I also treated my steel framesets a quick blast through their “breathe holes”, since I was on this corrosion busting mission. These and similarly small jobs sorted, I decided it was time to dust the fixed gear winter/trainer down and give it a few outings. Our first confirmed I’d the chain tension a little too tight, inducing minor faff but I was more irked by myself not getting it right first time.

It was tempting to replace the budget chain for the higher end Izumi in some respects, but this was making unnecessary work for myself, especially since the budget brownie hadn't covered any significant mileage and would probably sit unused. Just a matter of sliding the wheel slightly further forward in the dropouts and fine tuning with the chain tugs.

Or so I thought… Regular washing, waxing and lightly lubricating stuff extends component life considerably. However, even simple drivetrains wear out and though I’d regularly replaced chains, I’d not changed the ring, or sprocket in a while. During this inspection, I also noted some corrosion around the frame’s chainstay bridge, which had also spread to the right-hand stay. The only sensible option was to strip the components and scrutinise properly, rather than speculate.

I generously grease stuff during installation, so bottom bracket and other threaded components all spun free with only modest effort.

Deep degreasing and close inspection of the Genetic Tibia ring revealed some hooking and related wear, so I ordered a replacement along with a 17tooth Halo fat sprocket. I’d a fresh UN55 bottom bracket in stock, so plucked that out, since it had been over four years since I last fitted one.  The biggest surprise was a healthy layering of Park Polylube TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES clinging to the chain ring bolts several years down the line.

The Mulo is arguably closer to a gravel, rather than cross build. Room for 700x40c, tapered head tube and bigger downtube for additional stiffness. On-One also opted for a more traditional mudguard bridge mount, albeit behind the wishbone mono-stay. The top tube cable run is also very different, but interestingly, On-One has retained cantilever (or V brake) posts.  Legally, fixed doesn’t require a mechanical rear brake, since the transmission is recognised as a secondary stopper. Hence, I only use a front brake.  More about that later…

Easter Sunday brought a blowout. I was a few miles from home, really enjoying Denise’s responsive but reliable persona. A loud pop was followed by a rapid and similarly audible hiss. Rummaging through the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing I found four tubes. However, seems I’d not patched two of them, evident when I began introducing some pressure from the Muc-Off Airmach Pump.

Having found suitably sound butyl and checked the rear Pirelli Cinturato for sharps and similar damage Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing   I whipped everything back together and got busy with the Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Pro. 55psi later I was homeward bound again. Having returned, I needed to adjust the Suntour SE rear brake slightly. An easy fix-done in three minutes with a 16mm cone wrench, 5mm Allen key and ring spanner.

I’m pleasantly surprised by the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Driver.  Preset torque wrenches have been around a while, but adjustable models are, in my view, what we need and becoming increasingly affordable.  

Ok, some folks will argue 4,5 and 6nm are still limited but they cover the sort of routine adjustments we’re likely to make mid ride. Raising, re-aligning (or dropping) the saddle a few millimetres, tweaking cleat tension, nipping stem, mudguard, bottle cage bolts tight etc. Oh, obviously you’ll still need a multi tool for slackening duties, otherwise (and in common with workshop models) you’ll risk damaging the mechanism.  

Torque & Spring Tuning

 

I like torque wrenches and if not essential in the life and death sense, they’re increasingly necessary when working on modern bikes. An overly stressed component can snap at best leaving you out of pocket or resulting in a potentially nasty accident. This wallet friendly MPart Torque wrench has been my faithful workshop companion for several years now and highly intuitive to use. It caters for most of the fleet’s needs.  

However, there are some parts that require a little extra. Back story done, Oxford sent me their Torque wrench with a range between 2 and 22nm. Obviously, this won’t entertain cassette lockrings and square taper crank bolts, which need closer to 50nm, but otherwise, this range caters for everything from a bottle cage, mudguard mount, or derailleur jockey wheel to old school quill stems.  

Made from hardened chrome vanadium steel, setting the torque is simple, just a little counter-intuitive, coming from the M-Part and induced speedy referral to the (thankfully included) instructions but essentially boils down to turning the base/handle clockwise until it aligns with your desired torque. In common with the MPart, the wrench itself is ratcheted, which is super convenient from the perspectives of speed and efficiency, especially in tighter spaces.   Ursula’s front mech turned temperamental again, a quick turn of the adjustment screw and a gentle pinch of the front mech’s nose cured this, the chain skipping from big to small rings without missing a beat once more.  

Spring is synonymous with seasonal fettling and usually involves a good washing and hard paste waxing of some sort. Having done so, I decided it prudent to put some dead butyl to good use, dressing Denise and Ursula’s top tubes to avoid dings (should the bar end shifters catch in a tumble with terra firma, or the bars swing back with force).  

This also presented an opportunity to dress Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s Topeak racks to prevent further abrasion from pannier hardware. I also tweaked Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre, gave both bikes a good clean using this BBB Bio Ready Wash Bike Shampoo, finishing off with the brand’s Bio Gloss Bike Wax Polish (since they’re also on my test bench).  The ready wash, as its name suggests requires no water and isn’t designed for lightly soiled bikes. Spray on and buff to a shine with a microfibre cloth. Great from the convenience standpoint.  How it compares to something like this Motoverde Waterless Wash & WaxMotoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing remains to be seen (although it’s worth saying the Motoverde is also a good bit dearer)   

I’ve switched the fabulous Lomo ZephyrLomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing for this Altura Thunderstorm City Pannier. It’s another roll top design, meeting IPX6 for water resistance but a little smaller (20 litres) and claimed to have a ten-kilo maximum payload. It employs Rixen Kaul fitting hardware for limpet-like tenure to most diameters of rack tubing-easily tweaked with a few turns of a Philips screwdriver.  

I also like the closure system, which lacks the outright speed, dare I say convenience of a quick release buckle, but is more readily repairable, should it fail. A small thing, but I also like the light loop and the subtle retro reflective flecks. Oh, if black’s not er, your bag it also comes in a more stereotypically “commuter”  fluro yellow. 

Internally, it also employs sleeves to safely arrest and segregate 13-inch laptops and similar tech, or indeed, other items, such as a U lock. There’s a stiffener at the wall (where it rests against the rack) but unlike the Lomo, no scuff protection around the base- not unusual and an observation, rather than criticism. I’ve had a few off-road excursions with it and even moderately laden, no rattles and the mounting hardware has held 10mm tubing like the proverbial limpet.   

It has also been a good time to check butyl stocks, and I’m pleased to report several have been successfully patched, so could rejoin their respective panniers. A decent quality patch kit and patches are another of those unsung heroes of the toolkit. I pension tubes off after three patches but am firmly of the persuasion that I want the best chance of the patch and ultimately repair time effective. Right, off to play with the CST Patrol again...