Bearings, Blowouts & Broken Frames…

 

Good Friday came along and after a couple of weeks whizzing along the lanes and unmade roads aboard Denise, I decided it was time for a good clean, polish, and some light rest. I also reverted to the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather, since it’s a bit more stoical than the Motorex, but without attracting much grot.

I’d bought some replacement bearings as a standby for when the OEM Stronglight balls get choppy and indeed, this sealed cartridge bearing Tange come time the Stronglight needs retiring. It was only a few quid dearer than the A9ST.  

The generally dry spell had presented opportunity to top up the waxy corrosion inhibitor on the KA and Micra chassis, underbody, door and sills. It would cure quickly and lock the elements out.

Naturally, I also treated my steel framesets a quick blast through their “breathe holes”, since I was on this corrosion busting mission. These and similarly small jobs sorted, I decided it was time to dust the fixed gear winter/trainer down and give it a few outings. Our first confirmed I’d the chain tension a little too tight, inducing minor faff but I was more irked by myself not getting it right first time.

It was tempting to replace the budget chain for the higher end Izumi in some respects, but this was making unnecessary work for myself, especially since the budget brownie hadn't covered any significant mileage and would probably sit unused. Just a matter of sliding the wheel slightly further forward in the dropouts and fine tuning with the chain tugs.

Or so I thought… Regular washing, waxing and lightly lubricating stuff extends component life considerably. However, even simple drivetrains wear out and though I’d regularly replaced chains, I’d not changed the ring, or sprocket in a while. During this inspection, I also noted some corrosion around the frame’s chainstay bridge, which had also spread to the right-hand stay. The only sensible option was to strip the components and scrutinise properly, rather than speculate.

I generously grease stuff during installation, so bottom bracket and other threaded components all spun free with only modest effort.

Deep degreasing and close inspection of the Genetic Tibia ring revealed some hooking and related wear, so I ordered a replacement along with a 17tooth Halo fat sprocket. I’d a fresh UN55 bottom bracket in stock, so plucked that out, since it had been over four years since I last fitted one.  The biggest surprise was a healthy layering of Park Polylube TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES clinging to the chain ring bolts several years down the line.

The Mulo is arguably closer to a gravel, rather than cross build. Room for 700x40c, tapered head tube and bigger downtube for additional stiffness. On-One also opted for a more traditional mudguard bridge mount, albeit behind the wishbone mono-stay. The top tube cable run is also very different, but interestingly, On-One has retained cantilever (or V brake) posts.  Legally, fixed doesn’t require a mechanical rear brake, since the transmission is recognised as a secondary stopper. Hence, I only use a front brake.  More about that later…

Easter Sunday brought a blowout. I was a few miles from home, really enjoying Denise’s responsive but reliable persona. A loud pop was followed by a rapid and similarly audible hiss. Rummaging through the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing I found four tubes. However, seems I’d not patched two of them, evident when I began introducing some pressure from the Muc-Off Airmach Pump.

Having found suitably sound butyl and checked the rear Pirelli Cinturato for sharps and similar damage Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing   I whipped everything back together and got busy with the Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Pro. 55psi later I was homeward bound again. Having returned, I needed to adjust the Suntour SE rear brake slightly. An easy fix-done in three minutes with a 16mm cone wrench, 5mm Allen key and ring spanner.

I’m pleasantly surprised by the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Driver.  Preset torque wrenches have been around a while, but adjustable models are, in my view, what we need and becoming increasingly affordable.  

Ok, some folks will argue 4,5 and 6nm are still limited but they cover the sort of routine adjustments we’re likely to make mid ride. Raising, re-aligning (or dropping) the saddle a few millimetres, tweaking cleat tension, nipping stem, mudguard, bottle cage bolts tight etc. Oh, obviously you’ll still need a multi tool for slackening duties, otherwise (and in common with workshop models) you’ll risk damaging the mechanism.  

Jealousy within the fleet

 

No sooner had I believed the fleet was sorted, Denise got jealous and rejected her bottom bracket. I discovered this while replacing her chain, which was reading close to .7 on the chain wear indicator. Two chains had just arrived, so no sense putting off the inevitable. After a fit of pique, I found an (unused) mountain bike bottom bracket within the transmission box, gave the non-drive side a liberal helping of Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), the drive side, Oxford Mint Assembly Grease. This was just to see how the two would compare, in a like for like context. 

Since I had the cranks off, I stripped the axle and reached for the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is palpably lower than most on the friction front and is surprisingly durable into the bargain. Even though the existing KMC wasn’t completely spent, the replacement translated in much snappier shifts, too.  

Hopefully, that’s the last of the drivetrain consumables for a while, though. Depending on how rough winter plays, I’ll get 3-4 months from chains and at some point, I'll get another (XT grade) bottom bracket or two in, should something get the grumbles. Stuff usually goes pop at the least convenient moment, so keeping staples is good practice.  

Ursula succumbed to the first post-rebuild flat- couldn't find anything inside the Continental’s tyre casing, having washed and scrubbed them as part of a more intense generic bike clean. The tube had a hole around the seam, so I switched to a fresh one and pondered whether I should patch or retire.  

I seldom consign these to landfill since they make great chainstay protectors, headset boots etc. Denise’s lower race boot is proving highly effective at keeping the slime at bay. After some deliberation, I ultimately decided to go the former route with Ursula and placed some along the downtube, where the Ravemen XR6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) battery rests.   

Talking of batteries, I wasn’t getting any readout from the Giant computer, which basically boiled down to an exhausted CR2032 sensor battery. I’ve also tackled some alignment issues with the front Mudhugger guard and have decided to go the original rear Mudhugger route.  

These are shorter than the MK2 and I didn’t feel the need for Velcro, since I’m unlikely to be removing them- just a question of liberally applying helicopter tape and some old tube atop that to rule out any paint damage, then pulling the cable ties very snug.  

Another definite plus about the mud hugger and their gravel hugger cousins is both feel secure and rigid aboard the bike. The fixed gear winter/trainer’s hasn’t been touched, save for a replacement tie and yes, I also clean beneath the guards to prevent potentially abrasive and/or corrosive stuff building up. I took my time when fitting both, fitting things loosely, getting alignment spot on before pulling the cable ties snug. Talking of ties, the OEM are 3.6mm (about 0.14 in) thick-I’d lost a couple, so employed some slightly thinner examples as a meantime measure.   

 

Otherwise, it's aesthetically much sleeker than the generally serviceable, if slightly whippy post mounted unit it replaces. Staying with mucky stuff, I’ve been getting plenty of miles aboard Denise and the 120tpi versions of the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing.  

 

Though not wildly different to their 60tpi siblings, ride quality feels more compliant, and they feel slightly friskier, too. Too early to say whether the SC2 puncture repelling belt is superior and indeed, that of the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing but there’s plenty of gloop around and winter’s cranking closer, so we’ll see. 

  

The Madison DTE Men’s Isoler Thermal Long Sleeve Jacket continues to impress. Well, it’s a middleweight jersey by another name with a thin pile fleece lining to keep the chill out and a DWR waterproof coating. In common with similar garments, the latter should be thought of as resisting misty, light showery stuff and extending the time before you need to don a micro jacket/gilet, not battling rains of biblical proportions. The fit’s great, ditto the pocket layout and design.   

 

While the Topeak Gravel Two-Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a reliable staple, I’m leaning toward mini compressors for roadside rescues and CO2 inflators as a third, contingency option. Muc-Off has just sent me their Airmach electric mini-inflator. Its more compact than the CYCPLUS AS2 Pro Max Epump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or indeed, the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)    which has its pros, obviously on the space front but I’ll reserve judgement for now, see how it performs in the real world.  

Lighting continues to arrive, and I’ve just received this Ravemen K1800. As the name suggests, it’s another master blaster pumping out 1800 lumens. Probably the most notable feature is the AI technology, which allows the light to adjust output according to your riding style and environments. Theoretically, this will leave me free to enjoy the ride and get the best balance of performance and economy.   

 

Rough Ride

 

The freelance world can be a rough one and I’ve taken on other roles, from previous careers as a financial anchor for many years. However, these have become progressively less palatable, to the point I’m fostering a genuine sense of resentment toward them.  Role aside, I’ve had little or no connection to those I work alongside and am managed by either. 

This tells me I need to change something and strive for better, to leave the high pressure, skilled but poorly rewarded work behind. However, as others in this position will attest, you must change, not simply walk away.  

 

For previous generations and many years, there was a linear pattern. You could be assured of a comfortable life, even working a menial job. People didn’t need to adapt, or necessarily develop. Decent quality housing stock, solid public services, schools, and other societal fabrics meant a safety net, social mobility and some might even say cohesion. I would argue this, married to economic decline and neo-liberalist economics are prime culprits.  

 

Some might also argue the pre-existing social contact, also taken for granted, is broken.  

 

I was also slightly perturbed by Kona’s rapid disappearance from the Sea Otter Classic Show in California. Unclear what’s going on there but I for one, would be deeply saddened if the name were to disappear, or possibly worse, become a bargain basement brand, as happened to several British marques over the decades. I have since learned that the parent company has announced redundancies, and the brand is being sold on. 

 

As for those British marques, I still have a fondness for the Barry Hoban range of road bikes, British Eagle, Carlton (although they were part of Raleigh by this point). Talking of Raleigh, I still have a fondness for their special products division and some fabulous tourers- The Randonneur and slightly lowlier Royale in particular.  

A friend had the latter a 21.5-inch 531St tubed model back in 1989. It featured a bio pace crankset, four-point carrier, 700x28c Michelin tyres and Weinman Cantilevers – I rode it a few times as a teenager and found it fun and responsive.  

 

Back to Kona (which he also had within his stable). These were groundbreaking machines in the late 80s and early 90s. Geometry still feels current, and the design perfectly suited to the British climate and conditions. Joe Murray’s influence made the Lava dome and Cinder Cone magnets for my teenage imagination and empty wallet. These had a splatter effect paint finish, which was supposedly designed so you could touch up any chips discretely, and have unique, custom paint. Marin’s Bear Valley was another, as was their decidedly out- of- my budget Team Titanium....Hmm.... Again, I love retro, providing there’s scope for modernisation and I’m paying fair, not fancy prices.  

In the UK at least, it's not unusual for temperatures to dip around Easter, leading to April. However, I was somewhat surprised to find it sliding from 18 degrees to 3 degrees, prompting a switch back from the Espresso and Cycology jerseys to the Castelli Entrata Castelli Entrata Thermal Bib Knickers | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Bib Knickers and occasionally, the Madison bib tights and jersey cum jacket with Cycology Summit Jersey as a base-layer (a role it performs very well).  

 

The Cycology Baja Cap being slightly thicker and with a greater cotton content also retained some welcome warmth, although I stayed temperate wearing the Madison Roam Gloves Madison Roam Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Talking of Cycology, here’s my review of the Cycology 8 Day Handlebar Tape Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). 

 

Ursula’s front Continental Cross King had succumbed to the first flat, although I was relieved to find it the following morning, not mid ride. Time was short, so I plucked the fixed gear winter/trainer from its hanger and headed out for a faster-paced road blast.  

 

Ursula’s flat boiled down to a tiny hole near the tube’s seam and easily repairable, though I couldn’t find anything lodged within the tyre casing. I fitted another Cross King to the Alfine wheel and replaced the tube in the Ryde/SP wheel, switching the over for the time being until I found opportunity to wash and clean the tyre thoroughly. I couldn’t find any holes or cuts I the casing, so nothing to plug with superglue.  

 

The following day, my postman delivered this Cyc Plus AS2 Pro max mini, compressor- type inflator. This will deliver 120psi in around 7.5 seconds, which makes it a more practical option for road bikes and there’s an integral digital gauge, so you don’t ram this into a 26x2.0 maxing out at 65.  

 

Setting the pressure before you get going also means it will automatically shut off upon reaching that pressure. They claim it will inflate 7 29x2.2 mtb tyres from a single, full charge, which is also impressive. Measuring 54x32x81mm It may be a little big for jersey pockets but fine for bar bags and similar luggage. Will be interesting to see how it compares with the Fumpa pump FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)