Rambling & Roaming

 

Having tamed cranks, rim tapes and similar sources of potential mischief, it was time for longer, laden escapes from the maddening crowd.   

The Madison Summit rack has been doing its thing very competently, without fuss, or fanfare. Its TIG welded in Taiwan and to the standards I’ve come to expect from products coming out of the Far East. The 10mm rod offers a very stable platform for panniers, especially those such as this Oxford Aqua V20 with Rixen Kaul type attachments Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing, which is particularly welcome along rougher roads and trails. I’m still really impressed, astounded in some respects, by the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing

The narrower (100mm) top section is a little slender for bigger rack bags and though this Carradice will sit reliably, allowing me to concentrate on a decent tempo, it can make fitting and removing panniers from the lower tier trickier, technically defeating the object of a two-tier design. For the record, the Carradice is 116mm wide, so a consideration if you’re planning on a bigger rack bag, especially if you’re pairing with a pannier-single or otherwise.      

 I’ve been contemplating tyres for a while and was talking in terms of something old school and beefier. I may still do this, during the winter months but I’m sticking with something swifter. I’m still impressed by the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing. My experience suggests that 60tpi casings are more reliable, especially off road. I’ve had one flat with the Ravager, three with Pirelli’s perky Cinturato. Admittedly one was a rim tape issue, so not down to the tyre and they still have bags of charm but I’m craving dependability at the moment, in case that wasn’t obvious.

I got curious about Maxxis Rambler, which Maxxis say are their most popular gravel offering, reckoned to perform uniformly well along asphalt, dirt roads and gravel. The Rambler has been around for a decade now, which suggests a fundamentally very competent design. Tightly packed centre knobblies promise efficiency, while more widely spaced cornering/side knobblies promise to keep bite deep when cornering on looser surfaces.

As would be expected, it’s a dual compound, tubeless ready model. There are two variants, our 60tpi and 120tpi, they’re also available in a wealth of sizes, from 38 to 50mm. I’ve gone for the 700x40, since that’s optimal, dare I say maximum for Denise’s clearances.

The Silk shield puncture repelling technology runs from bead to bead, thus offering the sidewalls some defence against flats and cut damage. They also tip the scales at a similarly respectable 524g apiece. I’ve run ours up front, the Ravager behind, as a control for the first hundred miles. Now, the Ravager are no slouches, even on metalled roads. However, the 60tpi Rambler feel palpably faster. Having reached for the rambler front and rear, I’ve am averaging 16.7mph against 15.9mph along comparable sections and thus far, they’re proving equally engaging off road, along dry hardpack trails, unmade roads and forest trails.

Grip and cornering prowess are proving similarly dependable, although I anticipate needing something with a deeper, more mtb influenced tread when the wetter, wintry months bring boggy bridlepath.  50psi seems the sweet spot for mixed terrain shenanigans but obviously, I’ll experiment further, as time and miles advance.   While giving Muffin a well-earned wash and light fettle, one thing led to another and I was curious as to whether they’d fit comfortably up front, being 42mm (against the Continental Pure Contact, which are 40mm wide and run a hair’s breadth from the MudHugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards. Much to my surprise, the short answer is yes, and this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Spyre calliper’s alignment fractionally.

The Leatt 6.0 are still performing impeccably and having regularly alternating between Muffin (and the Shimano M540) and Denise suggests the Leatt are a little stiffer, translating in slightly improved power transfer, Finish quality is also proving very high, resisting regular dis/engagements with nominal signs of wear.  Interestingly, the Leatt cleats seem fully compatible with Shimano SPD pedals, but Shimano cleats weren’t quite so compatible and its required more effort to engage and release.

Staying with pedals, I’ve always leaned towards dirt biased SPD shoes since the power transfer is generally very good, and you can walk or run efficiently and comfortably. Race shoes, mtb or otherwise can be fine- I’m quite happy whizzing along on the fixed for several hours with these stiff soled FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  but found them a touch too rigid, say shouldering bikes cyclo cross fashion across more technical sections, or indeed mooching around, but then our old friend “horses for courses” springs to mind. 

Jealousy within the fleet

 

No sooner had I believed the fleet was sorted, Denise got jealous and rejected her bottom bracket. I discovered this while replacing her chain, which was reading close to .7 on the chain wear indicator. Two chains had just arrived, so no sense putting off the inevitable. After a fit of pique, I found an (unused) mountain bike bottom bracket within the transmission box, gave the non-drive side a liberal helping of Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), the drive side, Oxford Mint Assembly Grease. This was just to see how the two would compare, in a like for like context. 

Since I had the cranks off, I stripped the axle and reached for the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is palpably lower than most on the friction front and is surprisingly durable into the bargain. Even though the existing KMC wasn’t completely spent, the replacement translated in much snappier shifts, too.  

Hopefully, that’s the last of the drivetrain consumables for a while, though. Depending on how rough winter plays, I’ll get 3-4 months from chains and at some point, I'll get another (XT grade) bottom bracket or two in, should something get the grumbles. Stuff usually goes pop at the least convenient moment, so keeping staples is good practice.  

Ursula succumbed to the first post-rebuild flat- couldn't find anything inside the Continental’s tyre casing, having washed and scrubbed them as part of a more intense generic bike clean. The tube had a hole around the seam, so I switched to a fresh one and pondered whether I should patch or retire.  

I seldom consign these to landfill since they make great chainstay protectors, headset boots etc. Denise’s lower race boot is proving highly effective at keeping the slime at bay. After some deliberation, I ultimately decided to go the former route with Ursula and placed some along the downtube, where the Ravemen XR6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) battery rests.   

Talking of batteries, I wasn’t getting any readout from the Giant computer, which basically boiled down to an exhausted CR2032 sensor battery. I’ve also tackled some alignment issues with the front Mudhugger guard and have decided to go the original rear Mudhugger route.  

These are shorter than the MK2 and I didn’t feel the need for Velcro, since I’m unlikely to be removing them- just a question of liberally applying helicopter tape and some old tube atop that to rule out any paint damage, then pulling the cable ties very snug.  

Another definite plus about the mud hugger and their gravel hugger cousins is both feel secure and rigid aboard the bike. The fixed gear winter/trainer’s hasn’t been touched, save for a replacement tie and yes, I also clean beneath the guards to prevent potentially abrasive and/or corrosive stuff building up. I took my time when fitting both, fitting things loosely, getting alignment spot on before pulling the cable ties snug. Talking of ties, the OEM are 3.6mm (about 0.14 in) thick-I’d lost a couple, so employed some slightly thinner examples as a meantime measure.   

 

Otherwise, it's aesthetically much sleeker than the generally serviceable, if slightly whippy post mounted unit it replaces. Staying with mucky stuff, I’ve been getting plenty of miles aboard Denise and the 120tpi versions of the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing.  

 

Though not wildly different to their 60tpi siblings, ride quality feels more compliant, and they feel slightly friskier, too. Too early to say whether the SC2 puncture repelling belt is superior and indeed, that of the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing but there’s plenty of gloop around and winter’s cranking closer, so we’ll see. 

  

The Madison DTE Men’s Isoler Thermal Long Sleeve Jacket continues to impress. Well, it’s a middleweight jersey by another name with a thin pile fleece lining to keep the chill out and a DWR waterproof coating. In common with similar garments, the latter should be thought of as resisting misty, light showery stuff and extending the time before you need to don a micro jacket/gilet, not battling rains of biblical proportions. The fit’s great, ditto the pocket layout and design.   

 

While the Topeak Gravel Two-Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a reliable staple, I’m leaning toward mini compressors for roadside rescues and CO2 inflators as a third, contingency option. Muc-Off has just sent me their Airmach electric mini-inflator. Its more compact than the CYCPLUS AS2 Pro Max Epump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or indeed, the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)    which has its pros, obviously on the space front but I’ll reserve judgement for now, see how it performs in the real world.  

Lighting continues to arrive, and I’ve just received this Ravemen K1800. As the name suggests, it’s another master blaster pumping out 1800 lumens. Probably the most notable feature is the AI technology, which allows the light to adjust output according to your riding style and environments. Theoretically, this will leave me free to enjoy the ride and get the best balance of performance and economy.   

 

Bring on the gloop

  

While Mick Madgett was working his wizardry on the Ryde Andura/XT hoop, I discovered I’d added to much tension to the fixed gear winter trainer’s chain. Since the sun had its hat on, I headed out for a couple of sunny rides on the Holdsworth. Afterall, that’s what it's for. 

The Schwalbe One 365 gives a very quick, supple ride quality, in contrast to the Freedom Thick Slick’s coarser but ultimately durable casing- which stays on the rear for precisely this reason. I like the slightly odd couple pairing, so they stay. The Blub Wax lube is also staying, just to see how well it behaves in drier contexts. Like most waxes, it's self-cleansing, so but anecdotally, there’s less friction. However, in common with its ceramic stablemate, if the bike’s not been ridden for two days, you’ll need to replenish.  

Not so the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Lube. Three hundred miles hence, I’m still on the first application and it’s proving extremely clean, even in the wet. The links looked a little parched but touching them confirmed a tangible, filmy layer remains.  This suggests their claims of 400 miles per application is more than salesmanship.  I’m told it’s a synthetic blend made in partnership with SCC Tech. One that binds to the chain, while the detergents cleanse the dirt as you ride.  

Back to the fixed Gear winter trainer, I’m starting to discover some vulnerabilities in the Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) puncture repelling belt- the third flat (thankfully a slow puncture) at the rear. This struck following six miles of gritty backroad- a flint had worked inside the rear tyre’s shoulder (the puncture repelling strip only covers the centre strip).  

Saddleback sent me these 700x40c WTB Nano. They’ve been around a few years and found a lot of favour among gravel audiences and seem to follow a similar mtb tread in gravel sizing narrative.  

On paper at least, they should be an interesting and very relevant comparator. Of course, with the return of said wheel (which took Mick ten minutes to tame) came the tyre conundrum...Being as I already had the tyre off, it I thought it rude not to slip the WTB in situ. Effortless just using my thumbs.  

Much as the Maxxis, I introduced 50psi, fitted the wheel and then decided I’d switch the misbehaving CX50 in favour of the Suntour SE. The latter fight back a bit (though less than I was expecting) and they’ll need some fine tuning.  

For the uninitiated, these are a late 80s design which employ an internal mechanism that moves when the pads strike the rim, applying more braking force. For these reasons, these should not be run up front (unless massive “stoppies” and being launched over the bars, cartoon style is your thing.)   I’ve had a few tentative outings in monsoon conditions and can confirm they’ve enough power to lock the rear wheel, deployed in anger. 

For the time being, they’re behaving well enough, so I’ll quit while ahead and leave them be. I’d bought another pair, NOS for £10. I wouldn’t pay retro prices for them but couldn’t resist, given their performance. Staying with brakes, I had to tweak the front barrel adjuster and couldn’t find a suitable 8mm open wrench. Ironically, this pressed steel “giveaway” spanner saved the day.  

During this phase, I also switched the saddle. 300 miles hence, the five-year old Pro  Turnix Gel Saddle was proving less supportive to my sit bones than I’d expected. I’ve opted for the Ritchey WCS Cabrillo, which at 260mm long and 146mm. Shorter and a little broader.  

Formative impressions are positive, so I’ll er, sit tight and probably switch for the Ergon SR All Road for comparative purposes.  100 miles hence, I’m warming to both the Maxxis and WTB, which at this point are proving remarkably similar. A little slower across tarmac but compliant, predictable and very swift through mud, dirt and loose stuff. They’re also proving reassuringly good at shifting gloop, thus not becoming slicks at the first hint of a boggy section.