Easter Treats

Easter is usually associated with biblical matters, eggs, bunnies and similar festivities. I've always wanted to visit the Czech Republic to witness the Pomlazka, sometimes referred to as the "Easter Beatings" but thus far this too has eluded me. Must do better.

Easter is also traditionally a time when the temperature drops, and this year has been no exception. However, changeable conditions are relatively easy to navigate with the right kit. Arm, leg and neck warmers extend the horizons of shorts and short-sleeve jerseys and pack down small, so easily stowed away in jersey pockets, or wedge packs. Same goes for gilets, glove liners (slip these beneath mitts for some additional warmth and protection).

However, the gusty winds have brought the temperatures closer to single digits, hence I’ve been sticking to long sleeve middleweight jerseys, ¾ lengths, technical jackets, and middleweight full finger gloves.  Merino/Polyester mixes are my chosen fabrics for arm and neck warmers, socks too, for the most part unless conditions dictate waterproof models, although when monsoon conditions strike, I’ve donned booties, such as these venerable Shimano Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing, which though primarily aimed at mountain bike audiences, make excellent transition to gravel and general riding-assuming you’re riding in twin bolt (SPD, Time Etc) cleats, since you can also walk comfortably in them, while still enjoying excellent power transfer. 

 Continental have sent me some new rubber- their Terra trail in 700x40c, which was an unexpected and very welcome surprise. Not that I’ve had any issues with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, or Rambler Maxxis Rambler Tubeless Ready Tyres | cycling-not-racing, save for the odd thorn invading the casing, inducing a flat but that’s to be expected during the darker months where hedge clipping is pretty routine (and wet mud serves as a very effective lubricant).

I’ve also resurrected my action camera, which required Ursula’s Garmin pattern and auction site camera mount trading places but proved a blessing in disguise. This also prompted me to reflect upon future developments.

There's much to like about Tektro's RL520. Nice modulation and feel, shapely levers, great hoods for cruising comfort, inbuilt quick release and wallet-friendly price. However, the use of composites, especially the cable routing eventually ovalizes, hindering cable pull and ultimately brake function. I've also broken one in a tumble back in January '25. 

Having opted for Dia Compe's long serving 287 with Muffin and found the modulation, feel and overall performance pleasing but based on this experience, fancied something with a little more refinement for Ursula, once the RL520 turn sloppy.

I'd had my eye on their shapelier Evo V for a while, but wanted assurances the price differential was not simply down to aesthetics. Ison Distribution confirmed the region beneath the hood is also aluminium alloy, so a suitably robust choice long term.

I've toyed with going the full hydraulic route on several occasions but cannot justify the price differential. Besides, the Spyre SLC perform rather well, so long as you've opted for good quality compression less cable sets, such as this Jagwire Road Elite Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing. 

After much deliberation, I indulged in the Evo V as an Easter gift to Ursula but had no intention of fitting until the Tektro RL520 start turning sloppy, or a cable replacement and fresh bar tape are called for. The Wolf Tooth Supple Lite Wolf Tooth Supple Lite Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing is still in great shape, offers excellent grip and surprising levels of comfort, despite being relatively thin (2.5mm) although as many will point out, Ursula sports portly rubber and a compliant carbon fork which significantly dampen rougher sections of trail.

I've decided to add a Genetic Neuron Bar Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing to host additional light and indeed action camera. Though I would prefer a slightly broader mount (100mm, rather than the 70mm to be specific) its accurately machined and the mount can sit flush against the stem, or at least, close to.  

I'll tuck it underneath to keep things relatively clean, in turn overcoming some of the minor shortcomings of the Soma II SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS |. I have no intention of running a bar bag, so no issues with fouling - panniers and rack top luggage, or Yak homage trailer give ample load lugging options.  For the record, I'm fond of smaller bar bags, such as this Cycology See Me Pink Cycology See Me Pink Handlebar Bag | cycling-not-racing and indeed, the Oxford Aqua Evo Adventure since they have nominal impact upon handling and in the Cycology's case, doesn't rest against the head tube.    

While hunting for something else, I found a few packets of anodised aluminium bottle screws, two were ported over with a blob of grease to muffin’s cages, the other to Ursula and prompted me to forgo the Topeak  2 Stage Gravel Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing  its left the frame and now sits in a Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing along with some spare tubes, multi tool etc, should a stricken rider need to borrow it.

By no means a “white knight”, I’ve been stranded myself and will help if someone is struggling. I will often carry a contingency 700c, or 26-inch tube. Old, and maybe patched to my limit, that I wouldn’t worry about passing on, but good enough to get someone home. I've been there once or twice myself, when a spare has failed, or something more serious has struck. It's easy to be self-righteous, but we can all succumb to a mechanical, and while I'd never let anyone take kindness as weakness, I'd rather lend a hand than leave someone stranded.I'll leave you with Steve's review of the POC Ventral Air MIPS Helmet POC Ventral Air MIPS Helmet | cycling-not-racing

 

Rambling & Roaming

 

Having tamed cranks, rim tapes and similar sources of potential mischief, it was time for longer, laden escapes from the maddening crowd.   

The Madison Summit rack has been doing its thing very competently, without fuss, or fanfare. Its TIG welded in Taiwan and to the standards I’ve come to expect from products coming out of the Far East. The 10mm rod offers a very stable platform for panniers, especially those such as this Oxford Aqua V20 with Rixen Kaul type attachments Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing, which is particularly welcome along rougher roads and trails. I’m still really impressed, astounded in some respects, by the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing

The narrower (100mm) top section is a little slender for bigger rack bags and though this Carradice will sit reliably, allowing me to concentrate on a decent tempo, it can make fitting and removing panniers from the lower tier trickier, technically defeating the object of a two-tier design. For the record, the Carradice is 116mm wide, so a consideration if you’re planning on a bigger rack bag, especially if you’re pairing with a pannier-single or otherwise.      

 I’ve been contemplating tyres for a while and was talking in terms of something old school and beefier. I may still do this, during the winter months but I’m sticking with something swifter. I’m still impressed by the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing. My experience suggests that 60tpi casings are more reliable, especially off road. I’ve had one flat with the Ravager, three with Pirelli’s perky Cinturato. Admittedly one was a rim tape issue, so not down to the tyre and they still have bags of charm but I’m craving dependability at the moment, in case that wasn’t obvious.

I got curious about Maxxis Rambler, which Maxxis say are their most popular gravel offering, reckoned to perform uniformly well along asphalt, dirt roads and gravel. The Rambler has been around for a decade now, which suggests a fundamentally very competent design. Tightly packed centre knobblies promise efficiency, while more widely spaced cornering/side knobblies promise to keep bite deep when cornering on looser surfaces.

As would be expected, it’s a dual compound, tubeless ready model. There are two variants, our 60tpi and 120tpi, they’re also available in a wealth of sizes, from 38 to 50mm. I’ve gone for the 700x40, since that’s optimal, dare I say maximum for Denise’s clearances.

The Silk shield puncture repelling technology runs from bead to bead, thus offering the sidewalls some defence against flats and cut damage. They also tip the scales at a similarly respectable 524g apiece. I’ve run ours up front, the Ravager behind, as a control for the first hundred miles. Now, the Ravager are no slouches, even on metalled roads. However, the 60tpi Rambler feel palpably faster. Having reached for the rambler front and rear, I’ve am averaging 16.7mph against 15.9mph along comparable sections and thus far, they’re proving equally engaging off road, along dry hardpack trails, unmade roads and forest trails.

Grip and cornering prowess are proving similarly dependable, although I anticipate needing something with a deeper, more mtb influenced tread when the wetter, wintry months bring boggy bridlepath.  50psi seems the sweet spot for mixed terrain shenanigans but obviously, I’ll experiment further, as time and miles advance.   While giving Muffin a well-earned wash and light fettle, one thing led to another and I was curious as to whether they’d fit comfortably up front, being 42mm (against the Continental Pure Contact, which are 40mm wide and run a hair’s breadth from the MudHugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards. Much to my surprise, the short answer is yes, and this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Spyre calliper’s alignment fractionally.

The Leatt 6.0 are still performing impeccably and having regularly alternating between Muffin (and the Shimano M540) and Denise suggests the Leatt are a little stiffer, translating in slightly improved power transfer, Finish quality is also proving very high, resisting regular dis/engagements with nominal signs of wear.  Interestingly, the Leatt cleats seem fully compatible with Shimano SPD pedals, but Shimano cleats weren’t quite so compatible and its required more effort to engage and release.

Staying with pedals, I’ve always leaned towards dirt biased SPD shoes since the power transfer is generally very good, and you can walk or run efficiently and comfortably. Race shoes, mtb or otherwise can be fine- I’m quite happy whizzing along on the fixed for several hours with these stiff soled FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  but found them a touch too rigid, say shouldering bikes cyclo cross fashion across more technical sections, or indeed mooching around, but then our old friend “horses for courses” springs to mind. 

Jealousy within the fleet

 

No sooner had I believed the fleet was sorted, Denise got jealous and rejected her bottom bracket. I discovered this while replacing her chain, which was reading close to .7 on the chain wear indicator. Two chains had just arrived, so no sense putting off the inevitable. After a fit of pique, I found an (unused) mountain bike bottom bracket within the transmission box, gave the non-drive side a liberal helping of Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), the drive side, Oxford Mint Assembly Grease. This was just to see how the two would compare, in a like for like context. 

Since I had the cranks off, I stripped the axle and reached for the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is palpably lower than most on the friction front and is surprisingly durable into the bargain. Even though the existing KMC wasn’t completely spent, the replacement translated in much snappier shifts, too.  

Hopefully, that’s the last of the drivetrain consumables for a while, though. Depending on how rough winter plays, I’ll get 3-4 months from chains and at some point, I'll get another (XT grade) bottom bracket or two in, should something get the grumbles. Stuff usually goes pop at the least convenient moment, so keeping staples is good practice.  

Ursula succumbed to the first post-rebuild flat- couldn't find anything inside the Continental’s tyre casing, having washed and scrubbed them as part of a more intense generic bike clean. The tube had a hole around the seam, so I switched to a fresh one and pondered whether I should patch or retire.  

I seldom consign these to landfill since they make great chainstay protectors, headset boots etc. Denise’s lower race boot is proving highly effective at keeping the slime at bay. After some deliberation, I ultimately decided to go the former route with Ursula and placed some along the downtube, where the Ravemen XR6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) battery rests.   

Talking of batteries, I wasn’t getting any readout from the Giant computer, which basically boiled down to an exhausted CR2032 sensor battery. I’ve also tackled some alignment issues with the front Mudhugger guard and have decided to go the original rear Mudhugger route.  

These are shorter than the MK2 and I didn’t feel the need for Velcro, since I’m unlikely to be removing them- just a question of liberally applying helicopter tape and some old tube atop that to rule out any paint damage, then pulling the cable ties very snug.  

Another definite plus about the mud hugger and their gravel hugger cousins is both feel secure and rigid aboard the bike. The fixed gear winter/trainer’s hasn’t been touched, save for a replacement tie and yes, I also clean beneath the guards to prevent potentially abrasive and/or corrosive stuff building up. I took my time when fitting both, fitting things loosely, getting alignment spot on before pulling the cable ties snug. Talking of ties, the OEM are 3.6mm (about 0.14 in) thick-I’d lost a couple, so employed some slightly thinner examples as a meantime measure.   

 

Otherwise, it's aesthetically much sleeker than the generally serviceable, if slightly whippy post mounted unit it replaces. Staying with mucky stuff, I’ve been getting plenty of miles aboard Denise and the 120tpi versions of the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing.  

 

Though not wildly different to their 60tpi siblings, ride quality feels more compliant, and they feel slightly friskier, too. Too early to say whether the SC2 puncture repelling belt is superior and indeed, that of the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing but there’s plenty of gloop around and winter’s cranking closer, so we’ll see. 

  

The Madison DTE Men’s Isoler Thermal Long Sleeve Jacket continues to impress. Well, it’s a middleweight jersey by another name with a thin pile fleece lining to keep the chill out and a DWR waterproof coating. In common with similar garments, the latter should be thought of as resisting misty, light showery stuff and extending the time before you need to don a micro jacket/gilet, not battling rains of biblical proportions. The fit’s great, ditto the pocket layout and design.   

 

While the Topeak Gravel Two-Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a reliable staple, I’m leaning toward mini compressors for roadside rescues and CO2 inflators as a third, contingency option. Muc-Off has just sent me their Airmach electric mini-inflator. Its more compact than the CYCPLUS AS2 Pro Max Epump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or indeed, the Fumpa FUMPA PUMP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)    which has its pros, obviously on the space front but I’ll reserve judgement for now, see how it performs in the real world.  

Lighting continues to arrive, and I’ve just received this Ravemen K1800. As the name suggests, it’s another master blaster pumping out 1800 lumens. Probably the most notable feature is the AI technology, which allows the light to adjust output according to your riding style and environments. Theoretically, this will leave me free to enjoy the ride and get the best balance of performance and economy.