Shed Sitter

 

House sold and just post completion; I gave the fleet a thorough waxing and pre-storage once over. A quick squirt of maintenance spray on the cables, tyres inflated to optimum pressures, a quick drop of lube on the chains to keep them happy, while they are in secure storage. I am waiting to complete on a new property and while the COVID pandemic is raging,

Univega and I have sought solace in temporary, bedsit accommodation. Parred to the workshop essentials- a few tools, spare tubes, lubes, chain, cables, bike washes and degreasers. All do-able and enough to keep me and the old girl going through the increasingly dark, wetter, between houses thing. Crucially, we have a roof over our heads.

Having transported most essentials over previously, I loaded Ursula up, bike packing fashion (if you turn a blind eye to the Oxford Aqua Evo 12 litre backpack) and made the final, twelve-mile trip. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/topeak-midloader-frame-bag

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-cycles-bikepacking-seat-pa

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-aqua-evo-12-litre-backpack

Not a soul and in the dark, some long climbs were much flatter. However, farmers had decided to resurface the roads in lumpy mud, which has turned decidedly slippery with the subsequent rains.

Thankfully, the 2.0-inch Continental Speed Reflex and Control Tech bar wrap smoothed things out and held their line. I could feel the slide strike, corrected this and the subsequent squirms. Not wanting to push my luck, I resorted to riding on the opposite side of the road, since nothing was coming and thankfully, nothing did.

Mud and torrential rain have also licked the lion’s share of Tru Tension wet lube from the Univega’s chain, leaving it decidedly parched. I'm still impressed with its balance of cleanliness and relative durability, so will top up and plod on for the time-being.

Bedsits are also a challenge when it comes to bike cleaning and if you find yourself in this situation, a big piece of lino to protect flooring, furniture polishes, waterless cleaners are an absolute godsend, meaning bikes can be kept relatively clean, without involving buckets of water, mess, lost deposits, or drawing unwanted attention.

Schwalbe were also kind enough to send me a 26x2.0 set of their long-serving Kojak slicks and some Air Plus tubes. These are much thicker than bog standard butyl, though not the proverbial builders’ hose so should retain pressure and resist puncture better.

I love a big slick tyre. 

67 EPI (Ends Per Inch) the Kojak are marketed as lightweight touring rubber and there’s certainly scope for this, especially since commuting lends itself to more comprehensive puncture repelling belt. Interestingly, Schwalbe cite their Race Guard as 4 on a scale of 7 (Continental Contact Speed Reflex are also 4out of 7 on their scale, so comparisons will be interesting). A more obvious difference is the Continental say their sidewalls are bottle dynamo compatible- a bit old school but welcome. The Schwalbe are not but employ retro-reflective detailing.  

Quick, compliant, and tenacious all-weather grip. However, there is usually some trade off in terms of durability/puncture resistance. I’d run the 700x35 section Kojak some years back and found they had tremendous charm, although mine seemed susceptible to cuts-thorns and shards of glass being the main offenders.  The most notable exception being the Freedom Thick Slicks, which I have run on the Holdsworth for some time.

Talking of Holdsworth, while mooching through Colchester, camera close to hand, I spotted this Holdsworthy made example. Aside from the lovely red livery, I was initially drawn to the classic leather saddle and Carradice luggage and a lovely blending of classic and modern components. I’m still putting the Pro-Viz Reflect 360 through their paces and they continue to meet my expectations of a commuter glove. Those seeking something closer fitting might find Chiba Second Skin Windproof and Waterproof Gloves a better bet  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/chiba-second-skin-gloves    

 

Finishing Touches & Minor Frustrations

So, having awoken the Holdsworth from its Seasonal slumber, it would be rude not to ride it.  Through the Soma Condor might look a little curious, from certain angles, they and the Tektro R200 are proving a hit with me. Something I wasn’t complexly sure would be the case.

During our maiden blast, I was somewhat perturbed to discover the Apeman A80 Action cam https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  mount imploding at 23mph. Thankfully, I averted its loss and our mutual collision with terra-firma. Action cam safely stuffed in jersey pocket, I continued to assess the most recent mods, while sporting a massive grin.

Back home, rummaging through a brackets box, I uncovered this K-Edge Go-Pro mount. Thankfully, the Apeman casing was plug n’ play compatible. No all Go Pro homages are. Once upon a time, I only considered action cams a means of capturing the sights n’ sounds of a ride. The past few years have seen me deploy them, to record driver aggression. Unfortunately, the housing fractured, almost

64 years young, those plain gauge 531 tubes still deliver a responsive, and refreshingly compliant ride. Obviously, carbon blades and a titanium stem help in that regard, while keeping the weight down.

The Condor have brought the cockpit a little closer, so I slid the BBB Razer saddle back a few millimetres to offset this. However, I’ll leave it 100 miles before reaching for an Allen key. Unless of course, the post cradle bolt should loosen.  

Elsewhere, I dropped by Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating. Part social, part features cum favour based. Work had begun on the Holdsworth Cyclone frameset. Blasting revealed a pin dent, minor pitting and corrosion. This is not unexpected, given the frame’s age.

Much of this was evident where electroplating and paint overlapped. I fully appreciate why the owner wanted to preserve the original electroplating. However, getting paint to adhere successfully is a challenge. Even the most experienced paint shops struggle.

Acid etch primers were the most successful default, but even they lose tenure eventually.  The colour coats will be water-based, sealed under a polyester (powder coat) lacquer. In common with cellulose paints, water-based paints can be built up to produce a phenomenally deep, glossy sheen.

Hence their adoption by many prestige car manufacturers. These are usually sealed under a 2K lacquer. For durability and adhesion, Chris has treated the cyclone, to a zinc rich epoxy powder coat primer.

With the head tube masked, the wet spray colour coats can commence. These will be topped off with a clear, polyester powder lacquer. Arguably powder coated acrylics offer the best aesthetic but polyester has the edge, where outright durability’s concerned.

Staying with sealants and lacquers a moment, while semi-permanent lacquers, such as Crankalicious Enduro Frame Sealant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-enduro-frame-sealant-  aren’t designed to defend pricey paintwork from dings, scratches and similar damage, they do offer a useful protectant barrier.

The sort that resists road salt, oily spatter and makes the bike easier to clean. My one lament concerning my Univega’s otherwise excellent cream finish, is its tendency to show every oily finger mark. No matter how thoroughly I wax it. Well, I’m pleased to report sealants have saved the day.

Fenwick’s Professional Protective Coating has proved extremely effective. Compatible with gloss, matt and satin finishes, it’s a water-based formula that you work into clean dry surfaces. Buff to ashine and ideally, leave curing eight hours. This ensures it won’t transfer to hands, or other, unwanted regions of the bike’s anatomy.

Fenwick’s reckon a single application will last up to 6 months. A bit early to comment one way, or the other. Nonetheless, the invisible, slippery layer is more apparent than most and crucially, it seems to be keeping “Ursula” clean, in much the same fashion, a traditional, permanent lacquer would.

Spaced Out & Salvaged

Inspired by warmer drier weather, and of course, that Holdsworth Cyclone awaiting refinishing, I’ve plucked my Holdsworth from hibernation and decided to revise the cockpit, again. My love of flared drops seems to know no bounds. This might offend traditionalists, but my bikes are built, and evolve to suit me.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate some people’s desires to keep a classic bike’s authenticity-right down to fasteners. The Soma Highway1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars are a fine set of shallow drops, but that oh-so familiar urge for tweaking was calling. Condor’s hybrid design, combining riser and drops https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  wasn’t the most obvious choice, I’ll admit.

After some reflection, I opted for the MK1, and then decided I also fancied a change of brake lever. A quick rummage in the spares’ drawer, unearthed this solitary, orphaned Tektro R200. Seemingly superseded by the RL340, these are nicely finished Campagnolo patterns, right down to the push button Q/R.

Giving change from £25 (pr) they play nicely with dual pivots, centre pulls and cantilevers. Their RL520 cousins were designed for V brakes and compatible with, cable operated disc callipers, such as these Tektro Spyre. Light springs, decent modulation and feel.

Some folks might be a bit snooty, but both represent fantastic value for money. Oh, and if you’re really that fussed about branding,, the Tektro logo could be stripped, using a cutting compound, such as Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive Frame Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-mayo-jaune-intensive-  

At 145g, the solitary lever is 85g heavier than the Acor carbon TT lever, it replaces. However, I felt it a more suitable revision-knew it’d come in handy someday! I described the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  as   “The bar the original Soma Condor Handlebar should’ve been”.

Generally, I stand by this statement, but the original’s lower slung tops, are a better fit with the Holdsworth. Being able to salvage the silicone handlebar tape, was another definite bonus.  In some respects, The Genetic D-Riser 16 Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  might’ve been better still. However, they’re staying on my fixed gear winter/trainer, thank you.

Holdsworth makeover complete, I tweaked the Woodman Saturn Aheadset bearings, gave it a good sudsy bucket wash, then treated it to this Velo21 Blueberry Glaze wax. Despite some initial scepticism, performance and longevity are quite impressive. Aside from apparent quality, and longevity of sheen, its genuinely compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes. Yes, including this Torus Titanium Stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem

Talking of wax, I had intended to dress the chain in Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube but picked up Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax, by mistake. An error that only became apparent when the white emulsion began seeping into the links. Mildly annoying, but there we are. No sense starting again, so I delivered three coats and popped the bike away. Quitting while ahead is a definite virtue.  Talking of chains, I checked the Univega’s FSA using my KMC digital unit. To date, wear is nominal, but I acquired a KMC X973 grey replacement, for when the FSA needs pensioning off.  

Fixed chains don’t require the same degree of introspection, but you’d be foolish not to inspect and where appropriate, adjust tension. This was only necessary a couple of times, during the KMC Z1 X’s  lifetime. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  By comparison, this is the third time in 1100miles, for the Passport Elements Single Speed Anti Rust Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai .

Nonetheless, the Passport is a very reliable, relatively smooth and highly corrosion resistant option. The galvanised texture genuinely seems to retain lube better, than traditional polished/electroplated models.

While it copes well with the stresses of a fixed transmission, I’d opt for a heavy-duty track version, if like me, you only run a single, front brake. Perfect for a single speed, or hub geared bike, especially those that see year- round, four seasons; service.     

Missile Primed

 An overcast, though refreshingly  dry Easter Sunday prompted me to rouse the Holdsworth from its hibernation. A quick polish, air in its Maxxis Re-fuse tyres, a quick drop of PTFE lube into the chain, cleat mechanism and cable; we were ready for a quick 15 mile blast. I’d forgotten just how much fun it is to ride.

Despite being 62 years old, the plain gauge lugged n’ brazed 531 frame gives a beautifully responsive zing, although the composite forks add further refinement for fewer grams.

Aside from a few dips in speed-in keeping with traffic conditions, I surprised myself by keeping the tempo between 22 and 25mph along the flat sections, quicker when descending.  Hmm, perhaps this yearning for TTs can translate into something tangible… 

Might seem a strange move by some people’ reckoning but I decided, early on Holiday Monday morning to substitute its cheery composite Tifosi in favour of the Crank Brothers Cobalt3, which was resurrected from my spares drawer a few weeks back. The bluish-grey finish coordinates surprisingly well with the existing setup. It actually has several advantages over the Tifosi for this kind of build.

Despite being 400mm long and 7075 series aluminium, it’s actually 5g lighter and being an inline, rather than layback design brings me closer over the cranks for increased power.  I may ultimately veer toward something TI given its enviable blend of strength, low weight and corrosion resistance but just now, the Cobalt is more than earning its keep.

I was tempted to forgo grease given there’s ample of my home brewed corrosion inhibitor sloshing around the frame tubes. In the interests of ensuring a worry free, weather repelling union, I went for some green Park grease.

This was applied along its length and the threaded cradle bolt, since these can often get overlooked and form a very stubborn union over time.

I’m also contemplating the return to some form of aerobar. A compact model that is unobtrusive, yet still allows me to hunker low. I’m thinking in terms of a pattern like the Cinelli adorning the Teenage Dream.

This may necessitate a shorter stem, say 8cm, given I’m disproportionately short in the torso. When it comes to builds of this kind, I like an uncluttered. A Knog NERD computer and compact light with sufficient navigational bite to tackle semi-rural roads, should I lose track of time. 

I can hear some of you shouting “what about the tom-tom bandit!!!!”Fear not, it’s a temporary fixture in case I capture some warp speed footage worthy of note. Returning to the subject of lighting, mountain biking and years spent belting along unlit backwaters cultivated a default towards high-power systems-800 lumens upwards in new money.

However (and although this is changing) even in the lower settings, these systems aren’t the most useable for suburban and similar contexts, where 220 lumens or so is ample. Daylight modes as I’ve said before are becoming increasingly popular and increasingly effective-500lumens produces quite a visual punch, even on bright days. These also consume relatively little handlebar space and the lack of battery pack preserves the sleek aesthetic.

This Raveman CR500 arrived recently and is a nice, if slightly quirky option filling tis design brief quite handsomely. It doesn’t have the daylight option but has seven modes.

These are pretty much in keeping with others in this class- top is 500 lumens, enough for semi-rural riding and just about good enough for navigating unlit roads at 17/18mph.

The plug in remote control allows easy selection mid ride and though less convenient than a wireless unit, makes dipping down/up to suit conditions easier, since hands can remain on the bars. 

Both the CNC machined aluminium shell and the resin bracket are better than I’ve come to expect too. The former is reckoned to withstand IPX 6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzpoCv_OmXk and supposedly survives accidental drops onto a hard surface from a metre high. The lens is more unusual. Some systems, even those around the 300lumen mark can be intense, almost dazzling at close quarters.

Raveman has employed a cut-off beam, which casts a very broad arc of light, while the other picks out the detail. Coming from those with a really pure white arc, the visible split took a little acclimatising to but could never be described as distracting-in the sense of halos and similar imperfections.  



I’m warming to it anyhow. Shows how far lighting technology has come in the last decade or so; especially when I think back to the hefty 10W single lamp lead-acid systems.     

Elsewhere, Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com  has been sent some lovely goodies from Brian Davis, a US based innovator who designed the weatherneck balaclava system. https://theweatherneck.com/.     

 

Bubbling Beneath The Surface...

The past ten days have been a roller-coaster ride of highs n’ lows; my illustrator, Michael J Murphy has brought the main characters in my series of children’s stories alive as Jpegs. 

Given digital media dominates and portable devices have become the viewing tools of choice; we’re considering releasing a narrated version for younger children.

In keeping with our everyday focus at Seven Day Cyclist (www.sevendaycyclist.com    https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel ), we’re awaiting delivery of an interesting trailer or two.

Some of the team are leaving their wives behind and heading off for a quick gander at the Czech Republic...

My strange and some would say; irrational love of crumbling Soviet military/industrial sites, coupled with an uncanny ability to get arrested, detained and interrogated by the authorities means I’ll be testing kit on domestic soil through June…

A recent dry spell enabled me to slather some of my home brewed waxy preserve over the KA’s chassis and underside. 

Build quality seems an improvement over its predecessors, suggesting there’s some truth in the long held belief that last-of-the line cars were the ones to go for, since all the faults had been ironed out. That said; rust behind the filler cap remains as problematic as ever.

Moisture gets trapped between the rubberised seal and bodywork. A distinct lack of galvanising means the elements nibble away unsupervised until the bubbling becomes apparent. Thankfully, remedial action wasn’t too intensive. 

Having removed any flaking paint, I sanded the affected area; then added two light coats of Krust; a water-based neutralising agent before turning my attentions to my two-wheeled fleet while it cured.

Some minor play had crept back into the Holdsworth’s headset bearings, swiftly cured by a quick bit of spacer shuffling and introducing a 2mm “carbon” unit beneath the stem cap. 

Forty miles hence, suggests this unexpected flash of inspiration has solved the problem. 

WD40 water displacer is one of those truly iconic products; look in any household cupboard, garage, bike shop and chances are, you’ll find the blue aerosol (or 5 litre solution) sitting on a shelf/workbench.It’s not particularly kind to seals and other rubberised parts but inhibits corrosion, prevents squeaks, lubricates cables, pivot points, mechanisms etc. 

GT85 is another justly popular, Teflon fortified maintenance spray, which keeps these areas slicker for longer. It’s also owned by WD40 and they’ve also launched a bike specific GT85 range including bike wash, dry lube, degreaser and silicone polish.

While my preference (and that of many bicycle/motorcycle dealerships) errs towards high quality beeswax furniture polishes; dirt cheap, they achieve high quality, lasting sheens on painted, plated and polished surfaces with minimal effort. Silicone products also nourish plastics and rubberised components-suspension elastomers, seals being obvious candidates.

Traditionally, silicone based polishes-bike specific, or otherwise have tended to quickly cultivate grimy patinas. Credit where it’s due, while this formula still seduces some filmy grime, it is easily dismissed (almost as quickly as these U-locks) given a quick, soft-cloth onceover, though the lion’s share of protectant remains. Looking forward to putting the rest of their range through its paces...

John Moss is another perpetual fettler, perhaps unsurprising given his engineering career. In common with coach-builders and other engineering grade trades I’ve encountered in the past, he’s been trained to discover weaknesses and improve designs accordingly. His Mango being a prime example; Alfine 11sped hub, much bigger ring instated, gearing now permits 35mph at modest cadences and theoretically in excess of 80mph on a long descent!

Richard Ballantine once suggested that having motorcycle experience can be very beneficial when pushing recumbents hard-I was somewhat smitten with his “Speedy” during this period and would certainly indulge today...Along with some kind of 850cc trike project if other priorities and space permitted.

John affirmed that his ten years spent riding large capacity motorcycles develops an intuitive understanding of exactly when to push and of course, to back off.  He’s also learning to work with glass fibre and appears to have commandeered the couple’s trailer for solo shopping runs and other errands. The hitch is presently undergoing refinement so it tracks more accurately behind the Mango...   

Back to the KA

Next came three light coats of red oxide primer. Ideally a colour coat would’ve been applied but in my experience, these will keep the region solid and grot free. Before reinstating the filler cap assembly, introduce some decent quality, rubber friendly grease to the seal. It won’t cure the problem but greatly inhibits further bouts of grot and therefore, more intensive exorcism.

If you’ve bought a late model MK1 with no signs of corrosion in this region, I’d recommend a similar strip-out before filler and more serious intervention’s needed...

Hooking up with the Holdsworth & Other Steel Frames

Spring has sprung and the Holdsworth emerged from seasonal hibernation. Much as I suspected, adding two 2mm spacers beneath the stem sorted the minute but very annoying play in the beautifully sealed, Woodman Saturn Aheadset.

Staying with the front end, gone are those BBB aero bars for a less cluttered cockpit; saving a few grams while freeing up space for high power lights and other gizmos.

The bargain bin pink/black fade bike ribbon bought originally for £2 in a clearance sale has also been substituted for some Genetic Silicone (off-cuts from my Univega’s moustache bars). Though delightfully easy to clean, the bike ribbon’s glossy texture is also seriously slippery and damping doesn’t compare with mid-range modern tapes either.

Discovered said fixer’s colour-coordinated Knog Nerd computer display blank and unresponsive- nothing more serious than dead CR2032 and LR44 cells; thankfully they hadn’t leaked. This also presented an opportune moment to pop its silicone blankets in with some training kit for a decent low temperature spruce up. 

Lick of Vaseline, new cells, recalibration and back on the bars!

This particular Nerd is a simple, five-mode unit-easy to read and arguably all that’s needed for a general riding, though won’t win bragging rights down the clubhouse, or deliver in-depth scrutiny of riding performance demanded by elite racers. Backlight would’ve come in handy too.

Nonetheless, that huge, touch screen display is extremely clear, allowing me to focus upon maintaining decent cadence and average speed. Accuracy, even when riding close to strong electro-magnetic fields has been consistently good too. Not everyone’s cuppa but works for me.  

I also came across some these grey, magnesium bodied BBB Keo pattern while undertaking a much-needed bin/sell/keep inventory. Lightweight, low profile and slightly unusual...Temptation to reinstate was strong but the Wellgo are lower profile, recessed cleats permit dignified, safe walking and more importantly, don’t chew holes in very expensive lino...

Talking of which, the old 96 Shimano patterns were looking decidedly dog-earned, so I pensioned them off before sometimeish or dodgy dis/engagement struck with embarrassing consequences. Besides, shoe cleat hardware is an excellent test of a lubricant’s anti-seize properties and I’d just received Green Oil’s revised formula Eco grease.

Like many projects, the baby blue fixer was conceived as a simple, fun classic. I’ve always loved the road path concept-bikes that were practical for daily service, yet equally capable on the track.

Arguably borne from necessity; (the average post war club rider could only afford one machine) this genre and indeed, cycling’s mass appeal was extinguished by the abolition of petrol rationing in 1957.  

Gifted by a friend and respected bike journalist, the frameset had been languishing unloved in a garage, hidden behind old Land Rover parts. To complicate matters, it seemed the garage was owned by a friend’s ex-wife, who wasn’t particularly willing to co-operate with its release; prompting all manner of sneaky retrieval plans.

The initial brief was new paint, 700x28c tyres, full length mudguards and a hotchpotch of carefully selected parts to make it stop, go and handle in good proportion...However, new bottom bracket shell, minor dent filling, and other remedial works hence, it will remain my sunny days plaything.

Love of old steel framesets established; you can imagine my excitement upon spotting this tatty Fuquay. Judging by the distressed enamel, someone had either left in languishing in a highly corrosive environment, or had been attempting a DIY paint strip using DOT or similarly corrosive fluid.

Look closely at the seat stay, which sports some serious battle scarring. Structurally sound, the obvious solution is to fill the affected area with brass, then sand flat prior to blasting. Metafil; an aluminium based filler is another option and worked wonders on my Holdsworth’s corrosion induced acne. 

However, in this instance, the dents are too deep and would show in the new paintwork. This also illustrates the importance of giving your paint-shop a ring once your frame’s been through the blast phase...