Grabbing life By the Bars

 

Bar tapes (grips too) are very personal matters. Testing aside, my preference has changed over the years from the Bike Ribbon glossies and Grab-On foam touring pieces to polymers and more recently silicones. Some riders change seasonally, although this is often within racing circles, coinciding with cable switches and similar prep.

Makes good sense, given the demands of racing and ultimately the need to have everything bang-on. Arguably tapes should be more frequently on bikes regularly ridden on indoor trainers, since sweat can seep in and, ultimately, induce corrosion related damage.

 As I'm always saying, contact points are very personal things, but tape ranges from inexpensive to decidedly steep, depending on preference. I've been sent some Cinelli Classic Road Bar Tape, which retails at an uncharacteristically wallet-friendly £12. I recall a time-my early teens, specifically, where the only Cinelli I could afford was an Italian made water bottle emblazoned with the Cinelli logo. Ironically enough, this was 1987, the year Cinelli introduced their cork tape employing EVA for damping.

Corks offer warm, natural, wicking properties.  This is black, which arguably compliments, or contrasts pretty much any existing colourway, although there are eight alternatives.  It’s described as a medium thickness and at 2.5mm, I’m inclined to agree. At 250cm long, in theory there’s ample for most bars, including the big curly gravel types with generous amounts of overlap, or indeed gel underlays, which would be the route I’d go, if venturing off road.

 I returned from a ride on Denise, decided I’d “just” switch the Maxxis Ravager rear that was serving as a control (while I was gaining familiarity and comparison with the Continental Terra). However, this led to one of those infamous fettling orgies. Having switched the tyre, I found the rear mech’s inner wire was fraying, so replaced that and the final section of outer cable. Predictably, this cured some intermittent phantom shifting, led to a sudsy bucket wash and ultimately, me stripping and regreasing the Hollowtech II axle. Credit to the Zefal Pro II Grease, it was holding out well.

However, I wanted to see how effective the Muc-Off wax Chain Cleaner was on other, stubborn lubricant.  Surprisingly so, although warm water, stiff bristled brush and a couple of rinses were needed to strip the Zefal Pro II Grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing.   dressing the Holdsworth’s bars in the Cinelli, adding two Garmin-type mounts since I was in the flow. One for the Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing, the other for a compact light- Magicshine’s Allty 400 in this instance, since it has a very effective daylight flash.

The sun was shining and now was the time to enjoy my beloved sunny day’s plaything.  I’m arriving at the conclusion that corks have much wider horizons than 80’s road bikes with pencil thin stays. They’re very relevant for daily drivers, winter bikes, cyclo cross rigs and indeed, touring lorries. Nonetheless, they fit best with traditional drops with uniform diameters. Getting the Cinelli logos to line up on the Holdsworth’s Carbon Coefficient Wave Handlebar COEFFICIENT WAVE HANDLEBAR | cycling-not-racing which has plenty of curves and varying diameters proved a little challenging. Thankfully, the adhesive backing is tacky, rather than sticky, so very tolerant of being re-wound.

Cork responds best to a firm, uniform pressure, it also gives decent feedback before it comes close to tearing.  I had plenty left over, so used some to dress this Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing. The aim was to provide a grippy, secure host for action cameras and lamp mounts.

100psi apiece in the tyres, out on the Holdsworth, I’ve found the tape provides excellent grip and reasonable damping from low level vibration over washboard surfaces. Brilliant for charging hills and enjoying the bike’s spirited side, while improving comfort on rides exceeding three hours or so.

Given the bars unusual profiles, I’ve erred towards silicones, which can give a slightly chunkier look but offer phenomenal grip and damping.  The frameset is made from plain gauge 531 and coupled with the 28mm tyres, carbon bars and titanium stem suggest a sprightly, yet compliant ride. Broadly true, although tempered by the deep section rims and large flange hubs. These accelerate quickly but can also feel quite direct, given three hours or so.

Thus far, the pairing is proving a good fit, but we’ll see how the weeks and miles pass.  I also took the decision to introduce a Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing since I wanted a sleeker aesthetic. The 70mm “perch” was also wrapped in some leftover Cinelli Cork for grip. I stand by my statement regarding length, but have managed to mount the Allty 400 and ORP Smarthorn TESTED: ORP SMART HORN together and without issue.

I’d received an 18 tooth Halo fixed sprocket, so decided to whip Muffin’s wheel out and check how well the Zefal pro II Grease was faring after some very soggy, wintry months. Using the Feedback Sports Cassette Pliers Feeback Sports Cassette Pliers | cycling-not-racing both 16 and 17 tooth fixed sprockets released readily. Ample grease remained on the threads. A fresh lick of grease on the threads and I spun the 18 and 17 tooth sprockets fully home. This also presented the opportunity to give Muffin a deep clean. Yes, including beneath the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger Mudguard MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing and rear triangle.

Dried, I applied a quick dab of primer to two stone chips, reinstated the wheel and set the chain tension. Not done there, I noted the front brake needed a quick tweak and was suddenly gripped by the urge to substitute the 287 V for an Evo V. Before I knew it, the tape was off, cable disconnected, 287 on the bench. Ten minutes later, Evo V and new cable in situ. Modulation and feel were good with the 287 but seemingly superior with the Evo.  I’ve switched to this Genetic Hi-Grip Black tape, since it arrived on my test bench.  For time being, I’ll stick to enjoying some seriously spring-like weather on the Holdsworth.  I'll close here with my review of the Muc-Off Wax Chain Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing and Steve's review of the Castelli Espresso 2 Jersey Castelli Espresso2 Jersey | cycling-not-racing   

Waxes & Inner Whippets

 

I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the KMC Go wax chain lube. Arguably a chain manufacturer of their magnitude would be expected to produce a decent lube. There are some limitations and I’d still say, in keeping with the Weldtite Wax Weldtite Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing  it’s a fair weather, three seasons lube. One that copes better in damper conditions than typically associated with wax formulas.

Wild and windy weather aside, conditions continue to become more spring-like, prompting me to switch Ursula back over to the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing. An easy switch, or so I thought…A seized, or at least recalcitrant front Spyre SLC calliper prompted a strip and clean. I switched the pads since I was there. The existing pair were ok and good enough as contingencies-I just need to gently sand some light glaze and similar crap from them. 

Continuing this waxy flavour, Muc-Off waved their Dark Energy Chain Wax. Claimed to be four years in the making and suitable for road, gravel and mountain biking. Made from “plant-based biodegradable waxes” and free from PFAS and PTFE. It’s a dropper wax intended to narrow the gaps between dropper and immersion types. The latter, as the term suggests are where the chai is immersed and left in the wax, refitted afterwards. Not a new concept by any means and “baking” chains was once popular in motorcycling circles.  

Sigma sent me their Nyte Clip and Nyte 70 rear lights. Starting with the Nyte Clip, this is designed with versatility in mind and it’s not cycling specific, which isn’t always a bad thing. it can be attached to rucksacks, bike luggage, clothing etc, so also lends itself to hiking, walking, trail running etc.

It’s a very compact, some might say bijous measuring 52x21x21mm (width length height) and uses COB (Chips on Board) technology-36 diodes in this space is impressive and the 220degree projection continues tis narrative. There are six modes in total-two steady and four flashing (70, 80, 95 and 100lumens), with a maximum run time of 10hours in the 20-lumen steady mode from a full 90-minute charge.  

Sigma claim its visible to 500metres and this is very plausible, judging by what I’ve witnessed from the flashing modes on some bright morning rides.   By contrast, the Nyte70 is cycling specific and features braking and emergency braking functions, meaning it emits a very powerful blast of light when it detects steady, or rapid deceleration. It also employs COB technology, although this time 20 diodes share the space.

It also features an auto mode, which brings the light on and chooses output according to ambient light sensors. In auto mode the braking and emergency braking functions don’t work. There are five others, which seem considerably brighter than figures would imply. The high steady is only 9.5 lumens, the low steady 5.5, day flash 30 lumens, night flash 7.4 and the eco flash a mere 3.

However, its considerably brighter than I was expecting. Without seeing the figures, I believed the day flash to be around the 70-lumen mark.  Eco flash is claimed to return 20 hours from a full charge, night flash 8 hours and the day flash 6, which might not be astonishing, but gives reasonable scope for longer rides.

There’s an integral charge life indicator- green denotes full to 20% blue denotes 19-10% and blue flashing says you’ve dropped below 10%.  It can be mounted vertically, or horizontally, on a seat post, the saddle rails, seat stays and indeed, some racks.      

Elsewhere, I recently dropped processed sugar, or at least as much as I could from my diet and am generally feeling much better for doing so. Chocolate, sugar, cakes, deserts etc all gone. While intellectually I am someone of nuance, with some things I am all, or nothing and just need to stop wholesale, rather than “cutting down”.

I've certainly noted the benefits in the saddle, being able to accelerate and climb quicker, without fatigue, or sluggishness. The Coospo CS600 head unit with its comprehensive readout including calories consumed is certainly fuelling a desire to push myself a little harder. The radar function is also very welcome during blustery rides, and the ANT+ communicates seamlessly with either the brands' own TR70 or BBB radar taillights. The two faint green lines and widget in the left corner, coupled with audible beeps announce when vehicle(s) are approaching and their proximity.

I'd a few Garmin light mounts bouncing around the bodge box, but they were a little flimsy, so I bought two auction site cheapies for Muffin and Ursula, meaning I could simply port the CS600 between them. I had a Magicshine mount, but it was way too lofty for my needs. Buying two was cheaper still, since I wasn't paying postage. One affixing to the stem bolts was an option, but would've placed the CS600 (and indeed, other equipment) too close, especially given Ursula's very stubby stem.  

I found myself revisiting rings for Muffin- get something inexpensive and solid as a staple for next time and I also began contemplating replacing Denise's cassette for an 11-28 next chain switch, since that's the Tiagra rear mech's maximum capacity and would provide a little more winching prowess. In terms of ring, I couldn't find anything suitable- I was thinking sturdy, rather than exotic. A 42 tooth Gebhardt ring seemed the obvious choice. As for the cassette, I was sure I had a Tiagra 11-28 squirreled away somewhere, but at this stage, there's a few months before this becomes pressing.  I’ll close here with my review of the Coospo TR70 Radar Taillight Coospo TR70 Radar Taillight | cycling-not-racing

Loads, Logistics & Endless Pursuits

 

No sooner had the Topeak RX been switched around the fleet and the RX beam rack tethered to Denise’s USE post, Roswheel offered us their Tour and Tour Lite racks, tour panniers. 

The Tour Lite has a maximum cited payload of 18 kilos, is made from 6061 aluminium alloy and is designed to accommodate a wide range of framesets and 26, 27.5 and 700c tyres up to 50mm wide. It’s a little lighter than the Topeak Uni Super Tourist 2.0 Non-Disc Rack Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing  but 25g heavier than The M Part Summit M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing ( 879g and 715g respectively).  Welds are neat and uniform throughout and the textured grey finish continues this narrative. I like the 3- or 4-point fitting options as standard and the addition of a nicely engineered (rather than pressed steel “giveaway”) spanner was a very pleasant surprise. Three-point fits with the brief and lends itself to Audax and training bikes where you might want to carry a bit extra but not the proverbial kitchen sink. The top plate’s profile is decidedly narrow, so I wonder how well it will host trunk bags, such as my long serving Carradice.  

 Talking of luggage, Steve (Seven Day Cyclist Co-Editor) is due to embark on a very big tour with his wife in April, so if you’re a manufacturer, or distributor and you’d like him to long term test your products, let me know.

Giving Muffin a good sudsy bucket clean presented the ideal opportunity to fit the Dia Compe 138 lever, which gives my left hand the comfortable resting spot I was missing and two hundred miles hence, I didn’t opt for the broader Ridgeback. Defaulting to the Leatt Pro Clip Endurance 6.0 Shoes, these continue to impress, while confirming some suspicions. Namely that the sole is stiff, but when climbing hard on the fixed, there’s some minor flex.

It’s very subtle, but I wasn’t surprised to find their Endurance 6.0 pedals offered optimal support, but no issues with Shimano, or their legions of homages.  It’s worth noting they are a sporty, rather than race orientated cross country mountain bike/gravel shoes. The latter prioritise pedalling efficiency, but are quite harsh to walk in, which isn’t always desirable. Horses for courses.  

This minor flex is much less apparent on the 2x10 drivetrains, since my approach is different- I’m usually dropping down a gear or two, turning a higher cadence and winching up. Wet and wintry conditions also confirmed my suspicions that the large section of opaque mesh will allow water inside. The good news is the Pro Clip Endurance 6.0 have proven roomy enough for waterproof socks.

Otherwise, wearing merino blend socks, bargain on some slight sogginess given 50 minutes or so in persistent, showery rain.  Speaking of wintry conditions, they’ve been ideal for testing technical kit and I’ve grown fond of the Castelli Unlimited Rain Jacket Castelli Unlimited Rain Jacket | cycling-not-racing . Waterlogged roads and a sudden cold snap lead to ice and indeed, some light snow, so I was glad I’d left Ursula shod with the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing.

There are two basic approaches to filthy conditions, although, as with life generally, there is nuance.  There are those that will give bikes a twenty-minute sudsy bucket clean to remove salt, grit and contaminant post ride, before it can take hold. There are those who just allow it to stick, rustling up the buckets when the mucky spell has passed. Not difficult to see the logic and it has sometimes been the basis behind winter bikes- recycling downgraded components.

However, while fixed, single speed, hub geared and say, 6,7 or 8spd derailleur transmissions are relatively tolerant of being basted in crap, in my experience, 9 speed upwards get consumed at a rapid rate. With this in mind, I’m inclined to give bikes a moderately thorough clean every third outing, or a deeper clean, weekly. I don’t employ waxes to beautify in this context, rather to protect, to provide a barrier against the elements, making grot harder to stick in the first instance.  

I've had a few rude awakenings lately in the context of my mental and physical well-being, nothing that can't be steered back on course, but rather symptomatic of wider issues and possibly, unhealthy coping mechanisms. Nothing that was obvious- riding, energy levels and general physicality were unaffected, but there were other tell-tale signs. Irritability, difficulty in sleeping and an unsettling rash. The latter I attributed to a change in shampoo, and it seemed to ease a little when I switched to an alternative. However, itching and redness along my upper forearms was bigger cause for concern.

Again, something I dismissed as a bite-navigating flooded roads and a seasonally unexpected gnat orbiting my bedroom being two "probable" causes. These weren't the culprits and it was yet another reminder that I'm not invincible and we all need to monitor, check and adjust things accordingly.

The present socio-political climate and the uncertainty it presents is undoubtedly a strong influence, a pull to unhealthy coping mechanisms/escape attempts, whether this be consumer spending, reliance upon substances/self-medication (legal and otherwise), gambling, shopping, or risky sexual practices/unhealthy relationships. 

Politicians, regardless of “colours” talk endlessly of growth and stimulating it, without actually doing anything, save for a vague notion of tweaking something. A novice with a spoke key, basically. 

Derriere Delight & Rapid Chain Consumption

 

Having switched saddles and riding conditions milder and wetter, I switched to Muffin and some fixed gear serenity before things flip flopped again. Reunited with the titanium railed Spa Aire, I was delighted with the comfort but also noted some slight slip with these Castelli Competizone Bib Tights Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing- the case with the Ergon it replaces.

With another snowy blast on the horizon, I switched Ursla from the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing to Schwalbe’s Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing. Wheels in situ, I then decided a chain check was opportune- .75 when I introduced my more basic, nickel-plated tool. Bin fodder either way.

I had two in stock, so no issues on that front. Simply brake, prune the new and click into place with the magic link. Now was also the opportunity to expel some gunge clinging to the jockey wheels and lighter grime adorning the rings. Something also prompted me to check Denise’s KMC- said nickel-plated gauge also slid straight to .75.

Again, an easy fix, and chance to strip some residual gunk from the jockey wheels, cage and rings.  Both chains had been fed the Muc Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing . This also serves to illustrate how persistent exposure to waterlogged roads, mucky lanes, trails and of course snow and salt rapidly consume drivetrains-even with disciplined cleaning and light lubrication. Denise’s chain was only replaced in November. I subscribe to the philosophy of buying less exotic chains, since they still return a reasonable mileage and are relatively kind on the wallet when replacement’s due. Same goes for cassettes.

Rings should be fine, so long as you’re not lax when it comes to replacing chains. However, there’s an argument for investing in stainless steel, rather than 6061 aluminium alloy rings. At least on a tourer, or other bikes that do big mileages year-round. Mercifully, the Deore FC M5100 fitted to Ursula and Denise are steel, which adds a few grams but theoretically repays with improved durability.

Again, Deore is often regarded as entry-level, but the specification and performance are still very impressive. Back in the 1990s, I had high regard for Shimano’s STX & RC components, good enough for racing, but affordable and economic to replace, should you bend something beyond repair in a crash.  They key with all these things is to keep repairs, replacements and upgrades practical. Unless a gift, or passed to you at an incredibly favourable rate, bolting high end CNC machined rings on lower to mid-range cranks makes no sense.      

All this also serves as solid argument for running a fixed, or single speed steed as a primary winter bike. One ideally with full length mudguards (fenders). That said, fixed and single speed drivetrains are low maintenance, decent sprockets and chains are key, since they’re under a fair bit of strain and that’s before you throw the witches brew of wet, salt, grit and similar nasties into the mix.

Without doubt, the best sprocket I’ve ever run was EAI Superstar- a beautifully machined, highly polished stainless-steel affair commanding £45. EAI also offer a less exotic steel stablemate for £25. One that arguably strikes the best balance of value and performance on a working, or training bike.

I’m also suitably impressed by the Andel Fixed Sprocket (1/8 17tooth) fitted to Muffin. I’m not a fan of electroplating per se. I appreciate it looks pretty but I don’t like the process and acids involved. Nonetheless, Muffin’s seems to be holding up very well against the elements and offers a winter, knee friendly ratio of 67.5.

Great for a smooth, struggle-free cadence, but without going into overdrive on the descents.  As for chains, I’ve had surprisingly good results from budget KMC, such as the Z510, their higher end stainless counterparts, not to mention, the Gusset S Link and thus far, this Izumi. Once upon a time, while riding conversions I ran 3/32 Sedis, but it’s been 1 1/8^th track fare all the way since I took advantage of fixed’s resurgence in 2005.    

 

 

The mystery of the dormant dynamo

 

Once upon a time, dynamos needed voltage regulators to prevent bulb implosion that was a very common issue when tandems and long descents. I was surprised to discover a pronounced lack of illumination from the long serving Exposure Revo lamp. Thankfully,  the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing was playing backing singer. Most dynamos are very reliable these days, but we only need a snagged cable, or some other issue to plunge us into darkness, possibly many miles from home. For these reasons, I typically have a secondary high power rechargeable torch type along for the ride.

The mount remains permanently attached to the bars, the light typically secreted inside a bar bag, or similar bike mounted luggage. Having returned, I pondered the possibilities. The lamp itself, though thirteen years old and exposed to the worst the lanes and trails could throw at it, very well sealed from the elements and had never been subjected to jet washing, or similar abuse.

The cabling also seemed fine. No obvious signs of wear, or damage.  That left the Shutter Precision SL9 hub. The terminal block, spring contact possibly? The hubs themselves are well sealed and turn on cartridge bearings that in my experience, run for 20,000 miles before getting the grumbles.

Before getting deep in the diagnostics, the easiest thing was to switch back to the Shimano Ultegra unit. I’d already decided that I was using the Sl9 wheel as a second/spare so would not get the hub’s electricals repaired, simply run it as a traditional front wheel. Repair would mean stripping the wheel and returning to Shutter Precision in Taiwan.

I’m fond of these units, but I’ve found Shimano are more cost-effective long term. Not least since basic servicing, such as bearing replacement is within the means of home mechanics and decent shops.  The switch coincided with returning from a mucky ride to discover a slow flat caused by a tiny sharp, most likely a hedge clipping.

Tube switched, pin hole patched and a deep, sudsy bucket clean followed. Switching wheels and giving the wheel a good spin, I was relieved to find the Revo lamp coming to life. While the Weldtite All Weather lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing was turning a little filmy, it was holding on, so I decided against topping up, not least since the KMC X10 was coming to the end of its life.

Plan was to run the chain out, switch and either apply some more All Weather, or something similar, should it land on the test bench.  Having washed, waxed and dried Denise, I’ve decided to switch to Muffin, since the weather is progressively wetter. Mudguards and a simple drivetrain being the obvious practicalities, although the geometry and stout buxom rubber makes for engaging, yet predictable handling, not to mention a magic carpet ride. Perfect for general riding, these characteristics come into their own during the darker, slippery months.  The M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar Tape M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar | cycling-not-racing is still impressing with its damping and reliable all-weather grip. Then of course, I want to get some more miles in with the Sigma Buster1600 and RL150 lights. Steve’s been impressed with its 800lumen sibling Sigma Buster 800 and RL150 Light Set | cycling-not-racing  

Autumn well underway and another year wiser, I’ve decided to drop Muffin’s gearing slightly, no sense straining the knees, or other joints- another Arundel fixed sprocket since these seem accurately machined, well finished and modestly priced. I’ve gone the electroplated, rather than stainless route on the basis of price, although the latter might repay the investment on salty winter roads.  

I’ve been pondering suitable substitution for the Silca Nastro Piloti Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing which performs really well on the tarmac and excellent connection with the bars-a good bet for long steady audax miles, possibly winter training too, although in  my view, a bit pricey for the latter. However, given I like to play in the dirt regularly, damping was also a priority.

Enter this Ergon Orthocell. Apparently, it’s made from a medical grade material that’s also employed in their saddles. This is designed to distribute pressure evenly, thus insulate against intrusive vibration, and ultimately fatigue in the hands, arms and shoulders. In common with others, an anti-slip coating to counteract sweaty hands and torrential rains. Whether these qualities also improve grip and control when the temperatures tank, remains to be seen.