Two Deore & Fresh Cable

 

Three rides in and I concluded a slight kink in the rear derailleur housing was causing mischief-it wasn't obvious, until I was cruising on the hoods and happened to take this shot.  I obviously replaced the outer and inner cables upon returning home.  Little surprise that shifting became that bit snappier and free of phantom shifts and similarly unwelcome distractions.

Even if bars look comparable, width and shape can influence things, so if changing contact points, or making wider changes, it's worth changing the cables, ideally during, rather than afterward.  Talking of bars, here’s Steve’s review of the Lomo 3 Litre Handlebar Bike Packing Dry Bag Lomo 3L Handlebar Bikepacking Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing

All part of bedding in, dare I say bonding (deeper) with the build. Not one, but two Deore mechs arrived, which is welcome. The SR Suntour fitted to Ursula is box fresh and the STX adorning Denise’s downtube still has plenty of strength in its spring. Nonetheless, it’s thirty years old and these things tend to expire at the least convenient moment. Both Deore hail from the same era but have little signs of use and plenty of power within their springs. 

I'm sticking with the Shimano CX50 stopper up front since there's plenty of bite and pads are readily available. Temptation was to pop another Kore on, but this is change for change's sake.

Mick Madgett has worked his wheel building sorcery and built the older, non-disc Ultegra dynohub into the Ryde Sputnik rim. Not an urgent job but glad its sorted. I've switched the existing disc braked Nexus Shimano Nexus DH-UR700-3D Dynamo Hub | cycling-not-racing over to Muffin and run the low drag Shutter Precision SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD as a second/spare, as need arises. Otherwise, I'm really pleased with the bikes in their present guises.

Denise's 36/26 is actually quite close to the "cut down" trend that struck in the early 1990s, where riders would often forgo the big ring (typically a 48 tooth) in favour of the 38 and 28 since this saved a few grams and was arguably more practical off road. Though there's a lot to be said for triples, especially on a tourer, I've found keeping them on song four seasons round to be something of a chore.

I also ran a Shimano 600 with a Stronglight 48/38/28 setup, and this could also prove temperamental. I should point out this was inherited with the bike, not of my doing and was ultimately replaced with a Suntour XCD six months after the frameset's powder coat makeover in March 1990.  I was a big Suntour fan and remain very fond of the late 80s and early 90s groupsets.      

Elsewhere, I fitted the Blackburn Atom SL computer to Muffin and though accessing the battery compartment is fiddly, thanks to the tiny screws, the rest of the unit, including sensor feel solid in the Blackburn tradition. The display is very clear and the switches similarly solid. Not quite as bombproof flavour of old school, late 80's Cat Eye, but not far behind, so we'll see. 

 

Staying with Cat Eye a minute, I was interested to note they still offer wired versions, including one called the Enduro, which is apparently designed for off road duties. I'd go for a wired model since by definition, they are the most accurate, reliable option, but there's the risk of me embarking on a headset strip/similar, forgetting about the wiring and ultimately knackering it. I've got form for this, having done it before, to a Strada back in 1994.  I spend considerable time connected to the internet in one form or other, to the point where I simply want to decompress and disconnect on my rides- escape, for want of a more involved explanation.  

 

The Lomo Mountain Bike Gloves are still seeing plenty of action and continue to impress in their pleasant, understated way. Also on the test bench is the Lazer Strada Kineticore helmet, a design that blurs genres.

It employs their ScrollSys system for a precise, 360 degree fit, TPU eyewear docking system for parking sunglasses, a rear light mount and Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection, offering protection in a similar manner as MIPS. Where the two systems differ is Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection is built into the helmet from the beginning, whereas MIPS is added afterward. This ensures it covers the entirety of the helmet and theoretically, improves ventilation, while also using less material.

Hopefully none of us will ever need to call on this, or rely on our lids, but twisting forces can prove particularly harmful in a crash.  

Build quality and attention to detail impresses me at this price point. Simple things like the polycarbonate shell extending around the rim and an intuitive "conveyor belt" type adjuster tightening or relaxing the cradle tension being prime examples.

On the subject of sizing, I went for a small, finding the medium can be a little larger than others. I'm at the upper end of the 51-56cm circumference but still achieved a secure, comfortable fit with scope for caps, buffs and similar headwear. Our sample also coordinates nicely with these Shimano RX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing and cap 

Knickers!

 

It’s easy to overlook luggage, specifically their mounting kit. I was blatting along another filthy backroad when my serenity was rudely interrupted by a mysterious squeak. I initially (and irrationally) attributed to the USE SX post’s suspension components needing a strip, clean and fresh helping of Peaty’s Speed Grease. However, these are internal and very well sealed from the elements.  

Closer inspection revealed it was the Zefal R11 flap tickling the rear tyre and kit trying to make a bid for freedom. Pump, tubes and CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E Pump  CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing inflator tucked safely inside, I tethered straps tight (including the beefy post mount) and we were sway and binding free once more.  

I was also relatively surprised to find the Motorex Chain Wax still intact, albeit a little filmier, some fifty odd grotty miles down the line. I’d needed to top it up again, as a precaution (since it needs several hours and ideally a full night’s curing). However, unlike the very likeable Blub Wax, it isn’t unduly temperature sensitive and won’t degrade if the bike’s not been ridden in two, maybe three days.  

I’d also decided some nocturnal testing was in order. Having already had the Magicshine Allty 400’s Garmin type mount aboard the bars, I resurrected this Ray 2600, which puts out a total of 2,600 lumens. This is the predecessor to the Ray2600B (bluetooth) which requires an app. I've nothing against apps per e, I'd just much sooner have manual control and a remote, wired or otherwise.  

There are four basic, steady modes-170, 330, 650 and 1300lumens- using both lenses basically doubles this and there's also a smart ambient mode, should you fancy letting the light and its sensor technology lead. However, in common with other high-power designs with integral batteries, run times are relatively short in the highest settings, so best to use these sparingly, or buy a model with a medium setting that you can happily default to on the darkest of your rides.      

A few days later and temperatures tanked to minus 2, prompting me to huddle under the duvet and ignore the alarms longer than I ordinarily would. I woke Ursula and we headed out along the backroads, the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro’s gravelly patter reassuring me we’d remain upright along the sections of wet road that likely hid black ice and other nasty surprises.  

The left Microshift bar end shifter had also gone off tune in the freezing conditions, meaning temperamental shifting to the small ring. These seem more highly strung than the Centos, although still easy to live with. Front mechs, contrary to popular misconception tend to be tricky customers- ask anyone who’s had to keep a touring triple on song year round. Having popped Ursula on the Topeak  Flashstand eUP Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing  ,I deduced it was a cable tension and shifter tweak. Pulling the mech through at the mech cured 85% and a quick 2-minute tweak of the shift lever tension solved the remaining niggle-ha!   

I was also getting some squeal from the front disc but this was easily dismissed by engaging the front brake on a moderate descent-maybe the rotor was a little too clean.   

Back from another subzero ride on Ursula, I decided the Peaty's Link Lube Dry was beginning to look a little too conspicuous by its absence, confirmed when I touched the links. This prompted me to question compatibility between the Link Lubes. For example, the Rock N' Roll family of lubes can just be applied atop the other, should you fancy a change, say going from a dry to middleweight, or weight formula. The solvent properties within them strips any residual lube/gunk and cures, leaving only the new choice behind. Would the Link Lubes work in a similar way, the carrier stripping and priming, leaving the All-Weather in situ. Or would it react badly with any traces of Link Lube Dry., resulting in an oily mess... 

 

I gave the Link Lube All Weather a vigorous shake to mix the two parts and then drizzled into every link while spinning the cranks backward...Unlike the wax, there's no hanging around waiting for it to cure, but I popped Ursula away and went about my day.  Being minus 2, I headed out on Ursula the following morning and was pleasantly surprised to discover a lack of chemical animosity between the two lubes, although I had to scoop some residual gunk from the jockey wheels upon my return.       

 

The internet is a fabulous resource and, in this context, great for researching, learning, not to mention, shopping. However, scams appear to be on the rise. These tend to pop up in the right-hand panes of Facebook and the platform doesn't seem remotely interested in the association, which doesn't come as a complete surprise, give Mr Zukerberg's cow-towing to Donald Trump and disinformation. I had one that looked to be a genuine Endura link but when you click on it, it carries you over to a very different, yet plausible site -(Ounwear) with a familiar range of Endura goodies and plausible, not too cheap, not too steep. prices  

 

Take Endura Xtract ¾ lengths as a prime example. The Xtract employs their 400 series pad-a 15mm thick model with the usual anti-bacterial, fast wicking finish and strategically positioned gel for added comfort.   

 

Thing is, the typeset is different, Endura are based in Scotland, not the Far East, so you'll (a) not be supporting the brand, and its suppliers (b) won't get any genuine products and chances are, they'll pocket the cash. I'm not saying stick with only the official sites but check the vendor's credentials. 

 

Two rings good...

Given that I haven’t gone the mullet route (at least, not since 1989/90 and I’m not admitting to that) with Ursula’s drivetrain, switching to the Maxxis Ikon has meant much more dirt in our diet and more time spent on the Deore’s inner (26tooth) ring-especially exploring green lanes.  

Though not unduly heavy at 714g (about 1.57 lb.) apiece by my scales, they’re a little heavier than the Maxxis cited as 592g (about 1.31 lb.) and present palpably more resistance on tarmac, compared with Kenda Small Block Eight DTC.  

However, it’s worth noting that the Kenda features 120tpi casings and can be run at 80psi, while the Ikon is 65psi tops. These factors mean greater use of the front mech and more frequent shifting generally. No, this is not the precursor to a triple crankset. Aside from anything else, three rings tend to be a chore to keep on song, four seasons round. 

 

Back to the Ikon...Hit firm bridlepath or green lane and the transformation’s instant. Oodles of traction and a very sprightly, magic carpet ride. Our first foray came during the bank holiday weekend when I was less time taxed than usual. I was having a general, 5am meander along deserted lanes, forming some first thoughts about their tarmac manners when 9 miles out, I spotted a fabulous example of green lane and chucked a left.  

A little caution is needed, since these things aren’t always accurately signposted, resulting in a detour through someone’s back garden. This happened to me while putting a cyclo cross bike through its paces at 3am one December day in 2007.  

Hurtling along a gently reclining slope, my euphoric bubble was pricked by the sight of two wheelie bins. A smart about-turn and pacey retreat followed. I was reminded of this some 500 metres along when I happened upon a cottage with cars out front. My gut and some hoof prints told me to carry on.  

I laughed and attacked the swooping single track, pleasantly connected to nature and surprised by how well the Ikon bit into softer (but not soggy) surfaces. Since we’re talking tyres and trails, here’s the link to my review of the Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

  

Curiously, I’ve managed to wear a hole in the inner right thigh section of these Triban Men’s Road Cycling Bib Tights RC500, which might be a bit of a mouthful, but budget models that I’m particularly fond of. Being a test pair, I’ll have to put it down to experience (otherwise, had I bought them, I could’ve taken the warrantee route).

This photo also served to remind me my legs needed a good shave, especially since it's milder and I’m getting more miles in, on the Teenage Dream. Now, I continue to be impressed by the CST Cito and learned some interesting facts from their UK distributor. Much to my surprise, they’re designed for a maximum payload of 70kilos-which means, me and the operating pressures range from a very modest, mini pump achievable 80, right up to the cited120psi. Was expecting 90-120 if I’m honest but nice to know they can be run a little lower.  

After several weeks reprieve, the rains returned, albeit in passing. This resulted in derv and other light, slippery spillages being flushed from the verges and mixing with bovine dung and similarly slippery organic stuff. I happened to be sweeping into an S bend on the fixed. 

 

There was a momentary loss of traction from the front Maxxis Refuse but sufficient feedback bought me time to get things gracefully under control again. This appears an isolated incident-in more typically showery and rainy contexts, they’ve not missed a beat, allowing me to concentrate on a steady, 90rpm tempo. Again, their sweet spot seems relatively low at 65psi, but they can be run at 50, if conditions dictate.   

Thursday morning at 4am, fuelled by a constant flow of adrenaline. I was midway round the loop when I suddenly became conscious of resistance, spiking a rush of catastrophising, convinced the rear Re Fuse had done the unthinkable. Thankfully it hadn’t but the sense of urgency had me fighting for breath, but my legs felt surprisingly fresh, cranking out 100rpm until I arrived home.  

 Elsewhere, I’ve decided to stock up on KMC Z1X chains- this time with the silver finish. These feature the marque’s EcoProTeQ Coating (EPT) Anti-Rust technology, which also promises smooth and silent running. I’ve found the blue versions perfectly serviceable but lacking in outright refinement. Aside from dependable rubber, chains, and sprockets are not something I’d want to skimp on, when it comes to fixed gear builds, since there’s a lot of loading on these components.  

I’m not suggesting paying boutique prices. I also recognise the value of beveled sprockets for achieving accurate chain lines on conversions. There are other ways round this. Halo Fix G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting employs spacers to achieve this and I’ve even seen an eccentric bottom bracket, like those employed on tandems. However, I’m highly unlikely to go the eccentric route given I’m happy with the fixed gear winter trainer’s Genetic Tibia GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the Holdsworth’s Stronglight Track 2000.