Knickers!

 

It’s easy to overlook luggage, specifically their mounting kit. I was blatting along another filthy backroad when my serenity was rudely interrupted by a mysterious squeak. I initially (and irrationally) attributed to the USE SX post’s suspension components needing a strip, clean and fresh helping of Peaty’s Speed Grease. However, these are internal and very well sealed from the elements.  

Closer inspection revealed it was the Zefal R11 flap tickling the rear tyre and kit trying to make a bid for freedom. Pump, tubes and CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E Pump  CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing inflator tucked safely inside, I tethered straps tight (including the beefy post mount) and we were sway and binding free once more.  

I was also relatively surprised to find the Motorex Chain Wax still intact, albeit a little filmier, some fifty odd grotty miles down the line. I’d needed to top it up again, as a precaution (since it needs several hours and ideally a full night’s curing). However, unlike the very likeable Blub Wax, it isn’t unduly temperature sensitive and won’t degrade if the bike’s not been ridden in two, maybe three days.  

I’d also decided some nocturnal testing was in order. Having already had the Magicshine Allty 400’s Garmin type mount aboard the bars, I resurrected this Ray 2600, which puts out a total of 2,600 lumens. This is the predecessor to the Ray2600B (bluetooth) which requires an app. I've nothing against apps per e, I'd just much sooner have manual control and a remote, wired or otherwise.  

There are four basic, steady modes-170, 330, 650 and 1300lumens- using both lenses basically doubles this and there's also a smart ambient mode, should you fancy letting the light and its sensor technology lead. However, in common with other high-power designs with integral batteries, run times are relatively short in the highest settings, so best to use these sparingly, or buy a model with a medium setting that you can happily default to on the darkest of your rides.      

A few days later and temperatures tanked to minus 2, prompting me to huddle under the duvet and ignore the alarms longer than I ordinarily would. I woke Ursula and we headed out along the backroads, the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro’s gravelly patter reassuring me we’d remain upright along the sections of wet road that likely hid black ice and other nasty surprises.  

The left Microshift bar end shifter had also gone off tune in the freezing conditions, meaning temperamental shifting to the small ring. These seem more highly strung than the Centos, although still easy to live with. Front mechs, contrary to popular misconception tend to be tricky customers- ask anyone who’s had to keep a touring triple on song year round. Having popped Ursula on the Topeak  Flashstand eUP Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing  ,I deduced it was a cable tension and shifter tweak. Pulling the mech through at the mech cured 85% and a quick 2-minute tweak of the shift lever tension solved the remaining niggle-ha!   

I was also getting some squeal from the front disc but this was easily dismissed by engaging the front brake on a moderate descent-maybe the rotor was a little too clean.   

Back from another subzero ride on Ursula, I decided the Peaty's Link Lube Dry was beginning to look a little too conspicuous by its absence, confirmed when I touched the links. This prompted me to question compatibility between the Link Lubes. For example, the Rock N' Roll family of lubes can just be applied atop the other, should you fancy a change, say going from a dry to middleweight, or weight formula. The solvent properties within them strips any residual lube/gunk and cures, leaving only the new choice behind. Would the Link Lubes work in a similar way, the carrier stripping and priming, leaving the All-Weather in situ. Or would it react badly with any traces of Link Lube Dry., resulting in an oily mess... 

 

I gave the Link Lube All Weather a vigorous shake to mix the two parts and then drizzled into every link while spinning the cranks backward...Unlike the wax, there's no hanging around waiting for it to cure, but I popped Ursula away and went about my day.  Being minus 2, I headed out on Ursula the following morning and was pleasantly surprised to discover a lack of chemical animosity between the two lubes, although I had to scoop some residual gunk from the jockey wheels upon my return.       

 

The internet is a fabulous resource and, in this context, great for researching, learning, not to mention, shopping. However, scams appear to be on the rise. These tend to pop up in the right-hand panes of Facebook and the platform doesn't seem remotely interested in the association, which doesn't come as a complete surprise, give Mr Zukerberg's cow-towing to Donald Trump and disinformation. I had one that looked to be a genuine Endura link but when you click on it, it carries you over to a very different, yet plausible site -(Ounwear) with a familiar range of Endura goodies and plausible, not too cheap, not too steep. prices  

 

Take Endura Xtract ¾ lengths as a prime example. The Xtract employs their 400 series pad-a 15mm thick model with the usual anti-bacterial, fast wicking finish and strategically positioned gel for added comfort.   

 

Thing is, the typeset is different, Endura are based in Scotland, not the Far East, so you'll (a) not be supporting the brand, and its suppliers (b) won't get any genuine products and chances are, they'll pocket the cash. I'm not saying stick with only the official sites but check the vendor's credentials. 

 

Waxing Lyrical

 

Conditions had turned wetter and relatively humid, although I was surprised to find the Peaty’s Link Lube Dry clinging on through some wet roads and boggy trails. Steve’s been generally impressed by the Blub Dry Wax Blub Dry Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). The NZero Wax is also pleasing in terms of its cleanliness and rapid curing. 

I’d racked up over 600 miles aboard the Madison Flux Madison Flux Switch Saddle | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and while there are some considerations- it's a little long for quick dis/mounts, the sort commonly associated with cyclo cross racing and unisex is a term always begging for contradiction.  

Otherwise, I’ve been really impressed by the specification and performance, especially given the price point. Nice enough for the best bike but inexpensive (and practical enough) for a working/winter build. On a tighter budget or looking to upgrade an OEM perch? Its Cro-moly railed stablemate may represent even better value. I said this in my last post and stand by the statement. 

I’ve switched back to getting the miles in aboard Denise and the Ergon All Road Core Comp. I’ve been really surprised by how supportive and comfortable it’s proving despite being broader than I’m typically suited to. I’m still seeking a suitable set of chain rivet pliers – the pair I had in mind seem to be out of stock-I also want to buy some other, frame (alignment) tools since I’m there.  

Talking of tools, some cable stretch made itself known and at an unenviable moment- I was braking hard while negotiating a blind bend and an HGV approaching. The CX50 still did their thing but luckily, I was a mile from home. Having returned, I pulled the cable through and took up some minor slack using the barrel adjuster  

Giveaway spanners are truly disgusting from an engineering perspective but an absolute godsend in a jam. My 8mm open ended spanner had gone AWOL but thankfully, I had this rather weathered example tucked away in my pencil case type tool caddy. Think it was originally part of a Lezyne pannier- a nice feature, I like a lot of Lezyne’s designs, but not always their execution.  

 

Within a couple of minutes, I had lever travel exactly to my tastes and oodles of bite from the CX50 cantilevers- I remain impressed by the rear Suntour SE cantilevers- trickier to setup but plenty of feel and controllable bite. It's possible to lock a wheel but in my experience, provided you’ve not paired them with a V brake lever, such as the RL520, there’s ample warning before this happens. 

  

Unlike the Blub, the NZero can be used on cables i.e. where they enter the housings and of course-mechanisms- cleat, derailleur, and trailer hitches, which has some definite benefits, at least during the summer months, since in summer typical temperatures it’ll cure within 25minutes. Significantly faster than many waxes, which also makes it a realistic choice for longer group rides and indeed, touring, since you can just top up at a rest stop and scoot off once you’ve polished off a coffee, some cake and maybe had a yarn with some fellow riders.   

 

In keeping with waxes generally, it requires a surgically clean and dry drivetrain first time round.  The dry bit is less essential with hybrid blend containing an oil component. However, more traditional wax formulas, including paraffin-based types will lock any residual moisture in, resulting in trace, rusty freckling. It’ll disappear quite quickly during the first dry ride but ideally avoided.   

 

The brands’ Bike Degreaser formula is thus far, seemingly economical and effective- at least on chain lubes and indeed, heavily soiled regions of the bike, prior to a sudsy bucket wash. More on par with, rather than superior to some favourites, including the Fenwicks’ concentrate. Degreaser gels, such as Green Oil have an edge in this respect, since they cling to the host surfaces longer, having more time to brake lubricants down.  Steve was generally impressed by the Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  which is £1 dearer at £13.99 for a litre.