Waxes & Inner Whippets

 

I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the KMC Go wax chain lube. Arguably a chain manufacturer of their magnitude would be expected to produce a decent lube. There are some limitations and I’d still say, in keeping with the Weldtite Wax Weldtite Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing  it’s a fair weather, three seasons lube. One that copes better in damper conditions than typically associated with wax formulas.

Wild and windy weather aside, conditions continue to become more spring-like, prompting me to switch Ursula back over to the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing. An easy switch, or so I thought…A seized, or at least recalcitrant front Spyre SLC calliper prompted a strip and clean. I switched the pads since I was there. The existing pair were ok and good enough as contingencies-I just need to gently sand some light glaze and similar crap from them. 

Continuing this waxy flavour, Muc-Off waved their Dark Energy Chain Wax. Claimed to be four years in the making and suitable for road, gravel and mountain biking. Made from “plant-based biodegradable waxes” and free from PFAS and PTFE. It’s a dropper wax intended to narrow the gaps between dropper and immersion types. The latter, as the term suggests are where the chai is immersed and left in the wax, refitted afterwards. Not a new concept by any means and “baking” chains was once popular in motorcycling circles.  

Sigma sent me their Nyte Clip and Nyte 70 rear lights. Starting with the Nyte Clip, this is designed with versatility in mind and it’s not cycling specific, which isn’t always a bad thing. it can be attached to rucksacks, bike luggage, clothing etc, so also lends itself to hiking, walking, trail running etc.

It’s a very compact, some might say bijous measuring 52x21x21mm (width length height) and uses COB (Chips on Board) technology-36 diodes in this space is impressive and the 220degree projection continues tis narrative. There are six modes in total-two steady and four flashing (70, 80, 95 and 100lumens), with a maximum run time of 10hours in the 20-lumen steady mode from a full 90-minute charge.  

Sigma claim its visible to 500metres and this is very plausible, judging by what I’ve witnessed from the flashing modes on some bright morning rides.   By contrast, the Nyte70 is cycling specific and features braking and emergency braking functions, meaning it emits a very powerful blast of light when it detects steady, or rapid deceleration. It also employs COB technology, although this time 20 diodes share the space.

It also features an auto mode, which brings the light on and chooses output according to ambient light sensors. In auto mode the braking and emergency braking functions don’t work. There are five others, which seem considerably brighter than figures would imply. The high steady is only 9.5 lumens, the low steady 5.5, day flash 30 lumens, night flash 7.4 and the eco flash a mere 3.

However, its considerably brighter than I was expecting. Without seeing the figures, I believed the day flash to be around the 70-lumen mark.  Eco flash is claimed to return 20 hours from a full charge, night flash 8 hours and the day flash 6, which might not be astonishing, but gives reasonable scope for longer rides.

There’s an integral charge life indicator- green denotes full to 20% blue denotes 19-10% and blue flashing says you’ve dropped below 10%.  It can be mounted vertically, or horizontally, on a seat post, the saddle rails, seat stays and indeed, some racks.      

Elsewhere, I recently dropped processed sugar, or at least as much as I could from my diet and am generally feeling much better for doing so. Chocolate, sugar, cakes, deserts etc all gone. While intellectually I am someone of nuance, with some things I am all, or nothing and just need to stop wholesale, rather than “cutting down”.

I've certainly noted the benefits in the saddle, being able to accelerate and climb quicker, without fatigue, or sluggishness. The Coospo CS600 head unit with its comprehensive readout including calories consumed is certainly fuelling a desire to push myself a little harder. The radar function is also very welcome during blustery rides, and the ANT+ communicates seamlessly with either the brands' own TR70 or BBB radar taillights. The two faint green lines and widget in the left corner, coupled with audible beeps announce when vehicle(s) are approaching and their proximity.

I'd a few Garmin light mounts bouncing around the bodge box, but they were a little flimsy, so I bought two auction site cheapies for Muffin and Ursula, meaning I could simply port the CS600 between them. I had a Magicshine mount, but it was way too lofty for my needs. Buying two was cheaper still, since I wasn't paying postage. One affixing to the stem bolts was an option, but would've placed the CS600 (and indeed, other equipment) too close, especially given Ursula's very stubby stem.  

I found myself revisiting rings for Muffin- get something inexpensive and solid as a staple for next time and I also began contemplating replacing Denise's cassette for an 11-28 next chain switch, since that's the Tiagra rear mech's maximum capacity and would provide a little more winching prowess. In terms of ring, I couldn't find anything suitable- I was thinking sturdy, rather than exotic. A 42 tooth Gebhardt ring seemed the obvious choice. As for the cassette, I was sure I had a Tiagra 11-28 squirreled away somewhere, but at this stage, there's a few months before this becomes pressing.  I’ll close here with my review of the Coospo TR70 Radar Taillight Coospo TR70 Radar Taillight | cycling-not-racing

Spring Cleaning & Present Surprises

 

A post ride flash of inspiration and some quiet saw me fit the Roswheel Lightweight Touring Rack to Denise. Straightforward enough, although I found myself stripping the rack’s fasteners and giving them all a good lick of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease. There are some things I’m not completely sold on, but I’ll reserve judgement until we’ve done some proper miles.

 It’s a slimline, narrow design, especially the top rails and in my view, aesthetically paired to a road biased build-I’m talking Audax and lightweight tourer, through to gravel. 18 kilos maximum payload is a good bit lower than the 25 offered by Topeak Uni Super Tourist 2.0 Non Disc Rack Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing but perfectly adequate for general riding, weekend touring, commuting etc.

Given these contexts and the lightweight tag, I was pleased to discover there’s also a three-point mounting option.

I’ve gone the four- point route, since Denise sports these, and it's always been my preference. The grey powder coated finish looks sharp and has an interesting texture, although I noted ours was a little soft along the tops, where the arms rest. Welds are generally neat, albeit with a couple of workman-like, but solid beads at certain points.

As expected, the top mount struggles a little with trunk bags, such as my long serving, 13 litre Carradice, but despite the sides hanging over, it’s been surprisingly secure, even when I’ve been exploring some new bridlepath. Not that Eric the equine was remotely impressed when I stopped by, while dropping some stuff in the post box that evening.  

It also seems a good host to bigger panniers-I’ve the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing in situ since (a) I really rate them (b) I was keen to see how they’d sit against the rack’s sides, and I’m also running radar lights, which seem most accurate when mounted vertically. One point, and this goes for single-tier designs per se, it's trickier to run panniers and trunk bags together.

 Despite the rack tubing being standard 10mm thick, I’ve not managed to persuade either the Coospo TR70, or the BBB Signal BLS251 to sit securely, which isn’t the case with either the Topeak, or the M Part Summit M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing.  Crucially, both have embraced the rack’s dedicated LED mount.

 Rack testing in motion, I decided I needed to switch Muffin’s composite cages, since these showed a tendency to collect stubborn road film and grot. Black, white, or red would’ve been the most obvious compliments, but I had three silver offerings handy, so took that route.

Then, since the sun was shining, I plucked the Holdsworth from its hook and gave it a good sudsy bucket clean, stripped the congealed Blub Wax Lube Blub Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing and replaced it with the KMC Go.

Next the Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape was showing signs of wear Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, so presented the ideal opportunity to replace and fit the Dia Compe 138  hand rest to the left side. I redressed its bars in the contrasting orange T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape  T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing .

This was doing something close to nothing, was still in good shape and contrasts very nicely with the two-tone blue. A little job I’d planned to do when replacing Muffin’s bars and bar tape, but circumstances meant postponement.  Sometimes it’s the little things that bring the biggest smiles- an impromptu dusk saunter to the post box and a quick chat with Eric (the equine). being another.   

As for the KMC Go, I’ve been increasingly impressed by the formula’s staying prowess and cleanliness despite a cocktail of wet slippery roads, bridleways etc. As I suspected, it returns cleaner and flakes off in very small quantities, rather than the big flakes.

There’s some light peppering along the chainstays, and I do mean light. I’m 150 mixed terrain miles on the first helping and curious as to how many I can amass before there’s that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling. I’m assured there’s no call to strip it, just remove any loose residual stuff and then top-up. We’ll see…

 

   

 

On The Radar

 

I wasn’t expecting to get so engrossed in radar-based technology. I’m specifically referring to systems such as the Coospo TR70 and BBB Signal Radar. Lights are to some extent evolving like mobile (cell) phones did i.e. from telephones through to the complex computers in our pockets. For the uninitiated, radar technology in bike lights is designed to pinpoint approaching vehicles from a safe distance and typically communicate this via smartphone app.

The apps typically allow you to select lighting modes and other functions. These are not intended to replace wider awareness-regular over-the-shoulder glances, but to increase safety, say in contexts, such as a very windy descent where we’re battling the elements and can’t hear approaching traffic. The technology has obvious benefits to folks towing trailers, tagalongs behind their solos and indeed tandems.

I was curious as to how far light/radar could be positioned before reliable, seamless Bluetooth/ANT+ communication was affected. Coospo tell me the TR70 is good for ten metres, which should cater for most applications and contexts.  The BBB signal can also be run sans app, courtesy of an integrated speaker, which is a nice touch.

Run times in both units are reassuringly long, thanks to the sensible selection of modes and varied outputs. Up to a claimed 40 hours with the TR70 and 14 with BBB’s Signal (both in radar only mode, which means the light is only triggered when the radar senses a vehicle approaching. 140 metres seems the benchmark, although the Signal is claimed to detect from 190 metres.  

Thus far, I am forming the conclusion that radar systems are most effective and accurate along country lanes, A roads and bigger roundabouts. The density of town and city centre traffic (parked and mobile) tends to instigate false readings from parked cars and sometimes steel structures and fencing.  

Having confirmed good, user-friendly compatibility with an Android handset, I was curious as to their relationship with a contemporary computer. The sort with internet connectivity. The sort that I’ve traditionally shunned. Coospo kindly sent me their Real Road CS600 GPS Computer, which has impressive features and generous run to charge ratios. I’m at the exploratory phase, so will reserve further comment until I’ve done a good handful of rides and some proper miles.

Talking of miles, after a really filthy ride, I took it as my cue to (a) clean Muffin (b) replace the Izumi chain, which I’d noted was showing some signs of wear. There was a fair bit of congealed go around the sprocket and ring, so these were given a good blast of Drivetrain Detox and a moderate scrubbing first.

Chains are relatively inexpensive, so best replaced before they consume rings and sprockets, which can work out pricey, even on a fixed. I’m still contemplating switching to a stainless ring before next winter comes around. A KMC Z510HX (as shown here on the Holdsworth) being the choice this time round. It features a decent silver finish, “anti drop technology” and mushroom pins promising greater strength.

Not the lightest, but reliability trumps that by some margin.  I’ve found them strong, inexpensive and relatively refined 1500miles seems the going rate for a mid- range track chain. 3,000 miles is the most I’ve ever returned, and that was using a KMC Z1X Inox  SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN  but it’s a good deal dearer these days, so I’ll stick with the Z510HX.

I took this opportunity to strip and apply some KMC Go wax to the Z510HX and X10 chains, which has also consumed the last remnants of Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox, which had lasted considerably longer than I was expecting. I’d spotted two litre bottles of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner PRO GREEN MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW for a very keen price, so indulged.

I’ve found it very effective, although in keeping with the Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox it likes several minutes soaking time to make inroads into the lube and contaminant before you get busy with the stiff-bristled brush. There are cheaper formulas around on well-known auction sites. However, they can be somewhat caustic- not what you want on pretty paintwork, seals and other small but significant components.

As for the KMC Go, well, it’s living up to expectations. In common with other waxes, it’s quite runny, requires a surgically clean host drivetrain and several hours (ideally overnight) curing. However, it seems to be holding up convincingly in some very changeable (read wet) conditions, drivetrains are reassuringly clean, silent and shifts silent. The other nice feature is that you can just top up. No need to strip and reapply.   

Elsewhere, I’ve been impressed by the Topeak RX Beam Rack and RX Trunk Bag DXP Topeak RX Trunk Bag DXP and RX Beam Rack | cycling-not-racing. A good option if you weren’t keen on three-, or four-point racks for day rides and weren’t carrying bigger loads. There are better choices, including Carradice’s SQR range-including their Carradry  CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing if you wanted to haul heavier payloads. Though I’ve brought the fleet over to racks, I remain very fond of the SQR system and range of bags. Because they place the centre of gravity higher, handling can take a little time adjusting to, coming from panniers and trunk bags. With conditions turning more spring-like, timely that I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Castelli Unlimited Bib Tights Castelli Unlimited Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing

 

Ride, Tweak, Refine & Return to Wax

 

I concluded I’d the cable tension a little too tight, thus wasn’t getting the right amount of travel and ultimately power from Muffin’s TRP SLC calliper. An easy fix, just a matter of slackening the cable very slightly, then snugging down. Sometimes it pays to run a component in and then make a single adjustment-my experience with Magura Hydro stops, which I had fitted to a Kona Lava Dome some 27 years back. Impressive stopping prowess but tempered by stubborn setup.  

Early season generally means middleweight chain lubes, Weldtite All Weather Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing being a particularly good, wallet friendly default in my experience. Sometimes, conditions permit something lighter and cleaner. I’ve had very mixed experiences with wax formulas in changeable conditions, some are more durable than others. Momum MIC Momum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racingand Smoove TEST & REVIEW: SMOOVE UNIVERSAL CHAIN LUBE: SUMMER TEST have a definite edge in these contexts.

That established, I’ve been sent KMC Go. Now, given KMC’s immense experience manufacturing chains, I was very intrigued. Retailing at £ 17.50 for 150ml, its relatively pricey, so I’m expecting something rather good. KMC say it’s “Designed to significantly reduce friction, enhance shifting and providing optimum efficiency”. Look closely and you’ll notice a chain’s side plates decorate the seam.  

It promises to create a durable water repelling, friction reducing microfilm and supposedly more durable than oil-based products. While good practice to deep clean drivetrains before switching to different brands and genres, waxes are very particular, so aim for surgically clean rings, cassettes, derailleur jockey wheels and cages. This also presented the opportunity to scrutinise the Izumi track chain for wear and its Ok, but I’ll be replacing in the coming weeks.

If I’ve been running oil-based middleweights for any period, I may remove the crank, baste the inner ring in degreaser and leave it marinating for a little while, before introducing a suitably clean, stiff brush. There’s a solid argument for removing rings, chain and cassette and leaving them marinating in a parts washer-or indeed an ultrasonic cleaner, should means allow.  

Now, I’m a big fan of the chain cleaner brushes, particularly this Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing and Finish Line’s Grunge Brush Solo  Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing . However, while I’ve found some passable bike-specific brushes for purging cassettes, I’ve yet to find one that excels, which has prompted me to go the heavy-duty dish scrubber route. While wandering the supermarket isles, I spotted this one and it looked suitably sturdy and the handle seems suitably ergonomic.

Ask someone about degreasers, or drivetrain cleaners and you’ll get a tsunami of differing opinions, some advocating high end premium formulas, others more industrial citrus blends and another group advocating washing up liquid (dish soap) as the only way forward, claiming that all bike-related products are a big con. Let’s explore this a little…The problem with washing up liquids is (a) they contain salt, which isn’t good for painted, plated, anodised, or lacquered surfaces, seals and rubberised parts. (b) Then of course, these are designed for organic fats, not petrochemicals, so while they might shift mud and similar gloop, they’re not optimal for petrochemical based chain lubes, greases etc.  

Fenwick’s FS1 concentrate is a good default, but I’ve had great results using Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and for a long time, Green Oil’s Degreaser Gel GREEN OIL CLEAN CHAIN DEGREASER JELLY ruled the roost in my workshop. I used to have a litre supply. A workshop friendly 5 litre version is available for £145. I’m pondering my next formula, once this Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox is exhausted. For reference, it’s pretty economical-I’ve been using it regularly across the fleet since late spring 2025.   

Elsewhere, I’ve been sent this Lezyne KTV Drive Front. It’s a compact safety light in the classic sense of the word, producing a maximum of 200lumens. The sort that makes a good backup for extended summer playtimes on best bikes, or as backing singer to a higher power dynamo lamp. This one is a very practical black, but red, white and blue are the alternatives.

Talking of practical, it complies with IPX7 for weatherproofing, which is reassuringly good. This means it will withstand immersion in water for up to 30minutes-not that I’d be going bog snorkelling with it but stands more than a sporting chance in the worst most road, or indeed, gravel outings will throw at us. I’ve still some Lezyne lights going strong a decade or so down the line.  In terms of modes and outputs, there are five-two steady (70 and 15 lumens) and three flashing (200lumen day, 30 and 15 lumens). The KTV has been around for a good while, but there have been some rather impressive improvements in run time-a claimed 40 hours for flash 1 and flash 2.

 I’ll leave it here with Paul Brodie’s restoration and modification of a 1988 Rocky Mountain, since I like his channel and find his skill very relaxing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBWFtQJiZ0&list=WL&index=3&t=81s

Diversions Still Waters & Simplicity

 

There's much to be thankful for but sometimes it feels as if I'm living on borrowed time. I had hoped to be more secure, dare I say, recession-proof by this point in my life but then life can often divert us. Factors such as intelligence and education are significant in determining our future, but are two very different things.

Then of course, there are those who just inherit wealth and can live off the security this provides. I’m often amused (and privately infuriated) by those who inherit a successful business and purport to be self- made. A  narrative often reinforced by their family and immediate circle. Often overlooked in all of this is the ability to adapt. Those who cannot (or will not) are at a pronounced disadvantage.    

The pandemic arguably reconfigured the construct of certainty-the importance of making the most of everyday and in every way possible.  There are balances of probability but no guarantees.  Nostalgia is a dangerous distraction, although I can readily appreciate the sense of comfort it may bring.

Occasionally high-end NOS components pop up at very tempting prices. Some are still very relevant- I saw a pair of Suntour XCD single speed hubs-120mm spacing, so (almost) perfect for a single-speed winter/trainer based around a track/road path frameset. Cup and cone simplicity but with beefy seals to keep the elements out.  As an engineer once aid to me, there's a fine line between beneficial and overly complex enclosure. 

I've always been drawn to hub gearing but deterred by accessibility and being honest wheel removal following a flat is more involved. Not what I want on a cold January morning ten miles from home, but others would rightly point out is a matter of familiarity.

Could it be an irrational fear of something different... I spotted this Halo TK track hub going for a proverbial song- 32 holes and white, which explains the favourable asking price. I can live with white. I also spotted a 32-hole Ryde Taurus rim going for considerably less than the otherwise excellent Sputnik. It’s intended for gravel and similarly heavy-duty duties, so perfect for the rigors of winter.

Sealed cartridge bearings, freewheel one side, fixed the other-what's not to like. This kind of spec also lends itself to single speed cyclo cross, which has always appealed to me- mud, simplicity and ease of cleaning are definite draws. Then again, I'm always saying these things, only for the completed vision to evolve into something more complex, some might say cluttered. Denise wasn't intended to sport a four-point rack or secondary lighting, but these have proved immensely practical additions. 

I've switched Muffin to the Shimano PD ED500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing since I fancied a change and wanted to further test my theory that shoes such as the FLR MTX and Shimano GTX are best suited to broader bodies, which provide some additional support and offset some flex that's required of a shoe also designed to be walked in. Pedal body width is also mitigated by 165mm cranks and a lofty bottom bracket. 

I'd been tempted to go the dual sided Exustar route, but aside from the additional heft, I was only going to be using the SPD side. I my experience, dual sided-whether SPD, or TIME ATAC is always the most convenient marriage- step in and scoot off. No faffing and flailing trying to locate the cleated side.

That said, if you did want to go the single sided route, patterns such as Shimano's now discontinued A520, or the current ES600 (Ultegra grade) have a tapered profile, providing greater support to touring and bikepacking shoes. One thing led to another, and I found myself stripping the M540 and XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing pedals, filling the former with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, the latter with some Zefal lithium grease- the latter was green and visually reminiscent of Shimano’s factory stuff.  

With the mercury hitting the high 20s, I decided it was time to give Denise a sudsy bucket clean and switch to some Blub Wax chain lube before heading out for some dusty byway blasting- I was keen to see how securely the Wolf tooth cages would hold 750ml bottles off road.

Not that I was expecting any ejection-there wasn’t (although stainless cages can still prove quite springy, depending on the diameter). The Wolf Tooth are relatively slender, so will fit nicely with older road bikes with pencil-thin tube sets and are a good aesthetic fit on Denise. Since I was there, I removed Denise’s USE seat post and blasted some waxy corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube, then applied some of the Zefal to the post, binder bolt, not forgetting the quill adaptor.  I’d also noted that the stem and wedge bolts were somewhat stubborn, so treated the threaded sections more generously. Aside from a good connection, this would also test for galvanic corrosion, which was a traditional issue with lithium, greases and metals of different parentage.  

 I’d also found two razor sharp hedge clippings buried deep in the front Maxxis Rambler- new tube, old one patched and a noter to replenish my 700c stock.      

I will switch the cages over to Muffin, since Wolf Tooth claim they’re designed to accommodate frames where space is at a premium, whether this be a compact main triangle, or one consumed by bike packing luggage. Though not tricky, I'm finding removal of those bigger, trade bottles less convenient on the seat tube with the existing composite models, due in part to the Topeak frame fit pump nestling beneath the top tube.  

Something I'd expect, given the price, but bottle entry and release with the Wolf Tooth is super dependable-even when hossing along. I've also been pleasantly surprised by how well the Silca bar tape has coped off road. Leach like purchase was expected, and I like the direct connection with the bars, but no jarring, or fatigue thus far.    

As for the Blub, this doesn't cure to the usual paraffin type consistency, rather assumes a wetter state-something I'd forgotten and came as a surprise when I glanced down at the drivetrain. Some waxes just run very clean, others scab off when the weight of contaminant reaches a critical mass. I decided to clean some accumulated gunk from the jockey wheels after a few off road excursions, which was strangely satisfying.

Miles per application is surprisingly good from this and its ceramic cousin, but both need to be reapplied if bikes have been standing for 48 hours. Not an issue for a daily driver, but potentially impractical on a best, or race bike that may only come out at weekends. 

Knickers!

 

It’s easy to overlook luggage, specifically their mounting kit. I was blatting along another filthy backroad when my serenity was rudely interrupted by a mysterious squeak. I initially (and irrationally) attributed to the USE SX post’s suspension components needing a strip, clean and fresh helping of Peaty’s Speed Grease. However, these are internal and very well sealed from the elements.  

Closer inspection revealed it was the Zefal R11 flap tickling the rear tyre and kit trying to make a bid for freedom. Pump, tubes and CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E Pump  CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing inflator tucked safely inside, I tethered straps tight (including the beefy post mount) and we were sway and binding free once more.  

I was also relatively surprised to find the Motorex Chain Wax still intact, albeit a little filmier, some fifty odd grotty miles down the line. I’d needed to top it up again, as a precaution (since it needs several hours and ideally a full night’s curing). However, unlike the very likeable Blub Wax, it isn’t unduly temperature sensitive and won’t degrade if the bike’s not been ridden in two, maybe three days.  

I’d also decided some nocturnal testing was in order. Having already had the Magicshine Allty 400’s Garmin type mount aboard the bars, I resurrected this Ray 2600, which puts out a total of 2,600 lumens. This is the predecessor to the Ray2600B (bluetooth) which requires an app. I've nothing against apps per e, I'd just much sooner have manual control and a remote, wired or otherwise.  

There are four basic, steady modes-170, 330, 650 and 1300lumens- using both lenses basically doubles this and there's also a smart ambient mode, should you fancy letting the light and its sensor technology lead. However, in common with other high-power designs with integral batteries, run times are relatively short in the highest settings, so best to use these sparingly, or buy a model with a medium setting that you can happily default to on the darkest of your rides.      

A few days later and temperatures tanked to minus 2, prompting me to huddle under the duvet and ignore the alarms longer than I ordinarily would. I woke Ursula and we headed out along the backroads, the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro’s gravelly patter reassuring me we’d remain upright along the sections of wet road that likely hid black ice and other nasty surprises.  

The left Microshift bar end shifter had also gone off tune in the freezing conditions, meaning temperamental shifting to the small ring. These seem more highly strung than the Centos, although still easy to live with. Front mechs, contrary to popular misconception tend to be tricky customers- ask anyone who’s had to keep a touring triple on song year round. Having popped Ursula on the Topeak  Flashstand eUP Topeak Flashstand eUp | cycling-not-racing  ,I deduced it was a cable tension and shifter tweak. Pulling the mech through at the mech cured 85% and a quick 2-minute tweak of the shift lever tension solved the remaining niggle-ha!   

I was also getting some squeal from the front disc but this was easily dismissed by engaging the front brake on a moderate descent-maybe the rotor was a little too clean.   

Back from another subzero ride on Ursula, I decided the Peaty's Link Lube Dry was beginning to look a little too conspicuous by its absence, confirmed when I touched the links. This prompted me to question compatibility between the Link Lubes. For example, the Rock N' Roll family of lubes can just be applied atop the other, should you fancy a change, say going from a dry to middleweight, or weight formula. The solvent properties within them strips any residual lube/gunk and cures, leaving only the new choice behind. Would the Link Lubes work in a similar way, the carrier stripping and priming, leaving the All-Weather in situ. Or would it react badly with any traces of Link Lube Dry., resulting in an oily mess... 

 

I gave the Link Lube All Weather a vigorous shake to mix the two parts and then drizzled into every link while spinning the cranks backward...Unlike the wax, there's no hanging around waiting for it to cure, but I popped Ursula away and went about my day.  Being minus 2, I headed out on Ursula the following morning and was pleasantly surprised to discover a lack of chemical animosity between the two lubes, although I had to scoop some residual gunk from the jockey wheels upon my return.       

 

The internet is a fabulous resource and, in this context, great for researching, learning, not to mention, shopping. However, scams appear to be on the rise. These tend to pop up in the right-hand panes of Facebook and the platform doesn't seem remotely interested in the association, which doesn't come as a complete surprise, give Mr Zukerberg's cow-towing to Donald Trump and disinformation. I had one that looked to be a genuine Endura link but when you click on it, it carries you over to a very different, yet plausible site -(Ounwear) with a familiar range of Endura goodies and plausible, not too cheap, not too steep. prices  

 

Take Endura Xtract ¾ lengths as a prime example. The Xtract employs their 400 series pad-a 15mm thick model with the usual anti-bacterial, fast wicking finish and strategically positioned gel for added comfort.   

 

Thing is, the typeset is different, Endura are based in Scotland, not the Far East, so you'll (a) not be supporting the brand, and its suppliers (b) won't get any genuine products and chances are, they'll pocket the cash. I'm not saying stick with only the official sites but check the vendor's credentials.