Bicycle Aikido

 

During the long and sometimes very hot summer of 1987, I acquired a copy of Bicycling Magazine’s Bicycle Repair. The opening chapter discussed Bicycle Aikido, which though a gross oversimplification, basically meant working with, rather than against components. Working things out and using appropriate force. Knowing how to hold the bike and tools correctly, for best effect. If you feel resistance, back off, if it’s coming together nicely, go with the flow.

Obviously, things like torque wrenches are far more prevalent, affordable to most home mechanics, so reduce the likelihood of component damage. That is, if they’re used correctly and with similar mechanical sympathy. I thought I’d long since consigned my copy to charity shops, or similar outlet. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it nestling between some other cycling publications from that decade, including Richard Balantine’s.

Black and white photographs, straightforward instructions/guidance. So straightforward, it led thirteen-year-old me, armed only with a spoke key into a false sense of security. I successfully turned a very minor wibble into a wildly wandering wheel. Fast forward 39 years and I’d been doing a fair bit of dirt road exploration aboard Ursula-one that led to me discovering a rave at 1030 in the morning, not to mention a chance encounter with Spiderman.  By this point, I’d reached my conclusions regarding Topeak’s Handleloc system and fancied quicker passage across metalled roads, so switched to Denise.

On one particularly hot afternoon, I decided it would be prudent to apply some Juice Lubes Slick Juice to the USE seat post and Hollowtech II axle. Two easy little jobs-regular “while I think of it” greasing keeps things mobile and happy. I found one of the pinch bolts unexpectedly arthritic, so gave that a more generous lick of grease and snugged both to 13nm, rather than the maximum 14. Seatpost removed, I took the opportunity to blast some more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube. Given temperatures exceeded thirty degrees, this would flow beautifully around the frames’ inner sanctum and cure rapidly.

Though friction is palpably lower than traditional greases when spinning the cranks, I’m not sure whether the Slick Juice is neck and neck with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, but I’ll reserve judgement for now. Will be interesting to compare their staying prowess, too. For context, I’ve needed to replenish Peaty’s Speed Grease every six months, rather than the 9-12 typical of stout lithium-based formulas.

Personally, I find partial stripping and re-greasing more convenient than wholesale, annual tear downs. However, I prioritise a stodgy, hell n’ high water blend for headsets and contact points-at least on winter bikes, mountain bikes, tourers and others serving in more challenging conditions.

Following on from my comments about subtle stockpiling of consumables, someone waved a KMC Z1 EPT chain under my nose along with some replacement Shimano pattern cleats-both at very favourable prices, so I snapped them up.  Chances are the Z1 EPT will replace the fixed’s Z5 come November when conditions will be wintrier and the Z5 will be due its pension. Staying with chains a moment, I’m still very impressed that the All Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax’s temperature stability, even when temperatures have been in the mid to high thirties.

No gooeyness, nor does it transfer readily to hands and a consistent 250- 280 miles per application is similarly impressive by wax standards (150-180 miles is more typical) in generally arid conditions and allowing for the odd showery interval. I’m hopeful these qualities will increase drivetrain life, longer term and am planning on defaulting to it until October, unless conditions dictate otherwise.  

Sometimes the best products are the ones we default to, simply because they perform well and let us enjoy the ride. I am privately something of an obsessive, I’m intrigued by how stuff works, performance gains, that sort of thing but they’re the last thing I’d want to discuss during a ride, save for a casual aside, café’ stop break etc.

Other people’s machines, the human element, the stories behind them etc, yes, but I wouldn’t want the duration of a ride, or conversation to be rooted in component choice, or technical specifications.  Much the same goes for motorcycles, photography, and anything else I’m involved with.

Some technical chat is absolutely fine and often very relevant but quickly becomes tedious if it's someone’s only line of curiosity, or conversation. Then again, I’ve never needed to be centre of attention, nor do I talk about myself, although I am consistently told that I am intriguing and maybe I like that air of mystery…I’ll close here with my review of the Topeak Pannier Drybag 16 Litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing  and Castelli  Ultimate Sun Protection UPF Jersey The Castelli Ultimate Sun Protection UPF | cycling-not-racing

 

 

 

 

Pruning, Tuning & Distraction

 

I resisted the cable pruning urge for all of 24 hours. Weary of bum and brain, I shuffled from my office chair and headed to the garage. Cursory inspection and some double-checking later, I’d marked the cut point and removed the front mech's inner wire. Measure twice, cut once; I performed a final check, snipped the outer cable and refitted. Save for pulling the inner wire through trimming, and restricting the front mech’s throw- done in five minutes.

Oh well, might as well…I was compelled to adjust Ursula’s rear brake. The cable had stretched slightly, which also saw me realigning the calliper.  This phase was a little more perfectionist- some might say obsessive. Having pulled the inner wire through a little further and snugged tight, I slackened the calliper mount, then used a rubber O-ring to bring the brake lever fully home. Theoretically, aligning the calliper, while I tightened it evenly. A technique that ultimately proved successful. No tickling, or rub, just smooth, progressive stopping. Yay! 

I’m a big fan of Topeak’s Uni Super Tourist 2.0 DX Rear Rack. Being a two-tier design, there’s no issues combining panniers and rack bags, whether their MTX Trunk Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing, or something more universal, such as my long serving Carradice. You can still pair these on a single tier design but whipping them on and off is more convoluted.

The rack is highly adjustable-great for various frame sizes and designs, regardless of whether they run discs, or not. 25 kilo maximum payload caters for most contexts, and the factory powder-coated finish is generally hardy.

My one minor niggle (aside from electroplated fasteners) is the rack’s design can hinder access to disc brake calliper mounts. A moot point tackled with a workshop, ball-end type but potentially tricky with some multi-tools. Singular L-type 5mm keys, or slender tools, such as this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing seem the best fits.   

250 mixed terrain miles on and the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax is also performing very well- clean and yet seemingly resilient. I’ve concluded that letting it cure for 7-8 hours reaps best reward-I sensed I was chancing it at three hours but was keen to take Ursula for a shakedown ride and it’s the sort of thing we’ve all done now and then.  Much the same story with Muffin’s KMC chain.

One thing led to another while I was contemplating the world and my place within it. Curious to see how compatible (or otherwise) Slick Juice was with titanium; I switched the super plush Sumo for this Torus. This also presented opportunity to top up Muffin’s frame preserve and having torqued everything correctly, I gave the post a polish and applied some protectant. Given the grease’s composition, I’m not expecting any issues with galvanic corrosion, but there’s only one way to find out.  

As the miles rack up, I’m increasingly impressed by the All-Mountain Sports Miani Glide Chain Was. Specifically its lubrication and temperature stability. It seems to penetrate and coat the chain’s pins and rollers, resulting in silent, crisp shifting, doesn’t attract grime and runs cleaner. In fairness, several waxes I’ve tested over the last year or two haven’t become a gooey mess when the mercury’s creeping beyond 23 degrees but some are definitely better than others. It's also proving quite effective on cables, cleat mechanisms and other metal-on-metal interfaces that we might want to lube “while we think of it”.

Leatt have graciously sent me some shoes and shades to play with. Now, I've defaulted to twin bolt gravel shoes for the past five years or so, on and off road since they strike an excellent balance of power transfer and walkability. Grippy soles offering excellent traction off the bike-even if it's just dis/mounting on an icy morning. Prior to this,  cross country mountain bike and sportier touring shoes were my go-tos. I'm still a big fan of these Quoc Pham, which are still going strong after thirteen years. Leather uppers are easy to care for and resist the elements very well-wipe clean with a damp cloth and treat with hide food, or shoe polish to keep them supple.

Back to the Leatt. These are the Trail 6.0, a trail shoe, which features a longer cleat channel, offering greater adjustment. Forward, for a more aggressive, dare we say, racy stance, further back for trail, all mountain and endurance genres. A little different. Synthetic uppers seem rugged, although means mesh panelling. Once upon a time, this meant very soggy feet when the heavens opened. However, the slightly wider fit means they are readily paired with thinner waterproof socks, such as these Muc-Off, which are firm favourites of mine. 

Leatt also sent me their  Ride Viz Sierra Sunglasses. These employ "Biopolymer" frames with stainless steel temples. Polycarbonate lenses employing polarising technology, promising to eliminate glare and therefore, eye strain are something we've come to expect. Their casual, slightly classic design looks less aggressively technical, so theoretically a good fit off the bike. The Rebound employ carbon fibre frames and arms, keeping the weight low and rubberised grippers offering tactile tenure. 

Technical kit doesn't have to look overtly technical. Some brands still offer more relaxed "touring" shirts and shorts, although this is a smaller market, which seemed to almost reach a point of extinction, but made a quiet comeback thanks to gravel's rise in popularity. Prior to that, messenger subculture had a fleeting influence between 2005 and 2009. I'm still fond of "messenger knickers" which were nicely cut, looked stylish off the bike-perfect when meeting friends for lunch and similar social contexts. 

Looser fit mountain bike clothing is similarly practical. Endura Humvee remain popular (justly so, in my view) and cross, trail, touring and gravel genres very capably. Pockets and stash points means they're also ultra practical, won't look out of place on a mountain bike, tourer, gravel, or road bike.  Great for everyday riding where Lycra is inappropriate or frowned upon.   Hmm...Might that be why the Shetlands are shunning me ... I'll close here with my long term review of the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc  Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Rack Disc | cycling-not-racing

 

 

The Summer of Wax

 

I’ve been defaulting to wax lubes through spring and testing aside; this is likely to continue through into early autumn. Murphey's law has seen conditions take another dramatic change. It was now wetter than the proverbial Haddock's underpants- great for my crops but not conditions where waxes traditionally excel. I'm sticking with them for now, since I have several blends and they generally speaking, attract minimal dirt, thus extending the useful life of chains, cassettes, derailleurs and rings.

 After 130 miles, upon returning from the morning’s meander, Denise’s KMC chain was beginning to look thirsty. I went to retrieve the KMC GO but then wondered if two loosely similar waxes would prove chemically compatible. This would also allow me to use up the remaining Weldtite Wax Weldtite Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing.

 Just before drizzling into every link, I noticed a large sludgy kernel clinging to the Tiagra mech's jockey wheel, so scooped that away using this BBB chain gauge first- another strangely satisfying job.  

Gunk purged, I shook the Weldtite Wax bottle again, popped the spout and dropped into every link, spun the cranks to ensure even penetration and left curing. Twenty-five wet miles, I wasn’t surprised to discover the chain had turned a scuzzy, dark grey.

I hoped the wax had just arrested contaminant and wasn’t becoming a grinding paste. Though waxes are renown for cleanliness, if traces of an oil-based lubricant are left on the chain, the two formulas will trap grit, leading to accelerated drivetrain wear. Mercifully, the KMC and Weldtite seem mutually compatible, grime scabbing away during the next twenty-mile outing, leaving a protective film behind.  

I'd also reached that tipping point where an idea was becoming the ONLY idea-namely replacing the 2x10 Deore for a 3x10- I was looking to upgrade too, to an XT. Mercifully, I was able to talk myself out of this burgeoning obsession by reminding myself that doing so would require a longer rear mech-additional and moreover, unnecessary expense. The most cost-effective upgrade if I was going for a new mech would be a 38, or 40 tooth big ring and a 12-34 cassette. Not a triple. 

The latest generation of gravel “mullet” drivetrains on gravel builds is, for me, very reminiscent of those found on mid-late 80’s mountain bikes. Not the freewheels, rather the derailleur cage length. Cages were hanging perilously low to the ground. In fact, in some circles, it seemed the lower you’re cage, er, hung, the better. This also prompted a swing to using short cage road mechs. However, this proved rather short-lived, once many became the casualties of rocks and off road’s general rough n’ tumble.

Continuing this waxy theme, Extra UK has kindly sent me this All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax. Developed and manufactured in Barcelona, it claims to be an all-season’s lube. One promising smooth, clean, durable performance in dry to damp conditions. I’m looking forward to putting it to the test. In common with most waxes, it demands a surgically clean drivetrain first time round and emerges from the spout as a faint blue. A visual clue as to how much you’ve applied. Curing times are in terms of hours, so I’d leave overnight, where possible.

Extra also sent me some nice goodies from Topeak. Racks have fallen a little out of vogue in general terms, thanks in part to the popularity of gravel and bikepacking luggage. I’m fond of both, neither are better than the other, just more appropriate in certain contexts. Continuing this theme, I’ve always been fond of Topeak’s Quick Track System-the refinement and security specifically. I first encountered it back in 2009, but at the time commented the only drawback was the system specific design.

However, Topeak has since extended the appeal by offering a Quick Track plate as a retrofittable option. I was keen to see how that would perform with the M Part Summit Rear Rack M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing and Topeak’s MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing .

Finally, we’ve Topeak’s Drybag Pannier. This one’s the smaller, 16 litre version, but there’s a 24-litre sibling, should you prefer.  Sonically welded TPU construction and roll top closure bode well for keeping stuff bone dry and a 10-kilo payload is similarly reassuring. Mounting hardware is another thing that can make, or indeed, break otherwise decent luggage.

Rixen Kaul has long been the benchmark when it comes to reliable, user-friendly mounting hardware. Topeak’s in-house handle lock system is a spring-loaded system that works to a similar principle -pull the handle upward to release, press down onto the rack and it will click into place. The lower foot is also tool free and really easy to adjust, say when switching between bikes.  A single compartment is cavernous but potentially blessing and curse- depending on what and how you are packing.   

 

 

 

 

Subtle Gains & False Economies

 

Cables replaced and firmer conclusions cemented regarding the Continental Terra CompetitionTrails’ dirt prowess The Continental Terra Competition Trail | cycling-not-racing, it was time to strip the drivetrain of residual Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing and reapply another wax- the KMC Go, since I had ample left and it was closest to hand.

Checking the chain’s health, I was pleased to discover it was only .25, which was another incentive for sticking with wax lubes. I decided to retire Denise's 11-25 cassette in favour of an 12-28 since I had a Microshift in stock. The Tiagra was the original and outlasted six chains. Shifts were still smooth, but I noticed some very occasional skipping when climbing on the small ring. The cassette switch and some long climbs confirmed my suspicions and crucially solved the issue. Going by the book, the chain would’ve gone too, but wear was minimal and I wanted to be sure.

I like Tiagra- it might lack glamour but is a relatively inexpensive and durable component group with decent performance. 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25 and 28 are more road-centric than a gravel setup but paired with the 175mm 36x26 rings gives a range between 24.4 and 78.8 inches. Closer to that found on older cyclo cross rigs and crucially, well suited to my riding needs. Longer-term, when the rear mech finally turns sloppy, I will consider a long arm version and a 12-30-tooth cassette as a bail out, or trailer winching option. 

Spring’s tepid start had been eclipsed by some very balmy weather, the mercury reaching 27 degrees over the bank holiday weekend. Ideal conditions for testing summer riding kit.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Altura Airstream Jersey’s wicking prowess- I could literally feel sweat being wicked through the perforated shoulders. The BBB Karma MIPS also gulps in plenty of cooling air. Steve’s been suitably impressed by Castelli’s Espresso 2 bib shorts.Castelli Espresso 2 Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing and jersey Castelli Espresso2 Jersey | cycling-not-racing

Even at these temperatures, the KMC (and Muc-Off) have demonstrated good temperature stability, turning slightly soft, rather than becoming a gooey mess. A hairdryer on high heat, coupled with warmer weather has also helped traffic the Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing deep within the Wellgo 823’s inner sanctum, turning them close to buttery smooth and completely silent.

I say close since they’re cheerful cheapies. While adjustable, come time bearings get the grumbles they won’t owe anything but unless you’ve a free hand in axles, bearings etc, rebuilding may prove uneconomic.

Go for their MO94B WELLGO MO94B SPD PEDALS | cycling-not-racing cousins, or Shimano’s justly revered 520 if you’re looking to strip, service and possibly rebuild. Alignment of the auction site’s Garmin mount lacks the outright precision of some, but easily corrected post ride while I was snugging the stem face bolts down.  

I’m planning to fit the other to Ursula, when I get round to the bar, stem, and brake lever switch, but no rush, given the positioning is right and existing components are very serviceable.

Sometimes, these auction site “bargains” can be false economy- rubberised crank arm and brake lever protectors being two prime examples. Buy a decent set, such as these Zefal ZEFAL CRANK ARMOR | cycling-not-racing and they’ll last, quickly recouping the initial investment. Action camera mounts can also fall into this category, although I’ve found some cheap and cheerful designs. That clinging to Denise’s Genetic Neuron GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing being another case in point.  Switching Muffin’s Vittoria Adventure Tech for the Maxxis Roamer proved a welcome move.

The Vittoria roll better than I’d expect from coarse 27tpi casings and there’s not much separating them but even at loftier pressures, the folding 42mm 60tpi Roamer are supple and compliant, giving a nice, magic carpet ride across lumpy lanes. There’s also scope for less challenging dirt roads, byways and bridleways.         

 

Freeing the Soul, Sorting the Brake

 

Some lovely kit arrived in the form of this BBB Karma MIPS helmet and Altura Airstream Jersey and bib shorts. The Karma is a nicely executed, particularly airy design using MIPS (Multi Directional Impact Protection System). This is the air node version that’s integral to the padding and supposedly the lightest iteration.

Twenty-five vents are impressive, but the raised crossbeams theoretically encourage air through the scalp. In practice, this would appear so in practice. I was pleased to note the polycarbonate shell extends around the rim, protecting the EPS liner from everyday carelessness. Though arguably a road design, I’ve found its made excellent transition to gravel duties and the shape is very accommodating of high-power lights, such as this Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing

A rogue red deer cantering from a hedge, into my path seemed keen to test the lid’s credentials but thankfully, my reaction times and bike handling skills kept everything in check. Altura’s Airstream are budget garments but definitely very cheerful. Both have been revised (for the better) since the set I tested back in 2021.

Pockets are deep, supportive and they’ve added a fourth, zippered model with a long, user-friendly tag. However, the left-handed will doubtless point out it doesn’t favour everyone.  Having exhausted the 50ml bottle of Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax Muc-Off Dark Energy Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing , I’ve been taking to the trails and unmade byways to see how the Continental Terra Trail perform on hardpack and loose surfaces.

Speed, compliance and grip are impressive in these contexts and while the Genetic Digest are a touch broad for some gaps, this is tempered by their leverage and shallow drop. These provide excellent control when hunkered down and hossing along the singletrack. A good bet for trailer tugging and similar duties- yep, they’re staying. I dialled things that bit sharper by raising the stem a few millimetres. Some adjustments are genuinely intuitive and tend to strike mid, or post ride.

Denise’s rear stopper decided to turn erratic and mischievous. Not that I use a rear brake often, but if something’s fitted, then it needs to perform well. Having stopped to commune with this little Shetland during one forest trail frolic, I decided it was time to strip and clean the arms and replace inner and outer cables.

A simple job, but sometimes I’m my own worst enemy…Spares boxes open, I was contemplating all sorts- switching the cantilevers for some Tekro…Or some Dia Compe…Or Some Avid…Investigating this and other options saw time evaporate-precisely the opposite of what I’d intended.

After some faff and deliberation, I stripped and cleaned the brakes, bosses, applied some Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing , replaced the cables. Stripped out, both had seen better days and an obvious impairment to smooth braking.  Another bog-standard but very serviceable Clarks stainless inner, but Jagwire’s CGX SL outer. This features a high carbon coil steel, providing the strength required for braking, the carbon component limiting compression. This coupled with the lubricated liner ensures excellent modulation and feel, even commanded by Tektro’s cheerful RL340 lever.

I still treat outers and inners to a blast of maintenance spray, since opportunity presents. A precautionary drop of super glue on the freshly snipped inner seals the deal. My experience of bog standard cablesets, regardless of brand is they are serviceable enough and a very inexpensive way of restoring shifting and braking prowess- so long as they're replaced seasonally-especially on working bikes.

However, spending just a little more can reap better rewards in terms of weather resistance and performance. Pre-lubricated liners also keep things slick and largely eliminate the need for periodic flushing through with GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT, Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing.

Inner wires seem less prone to stretch, cut nicely and tend not to fray so readily. That said don't skimp on decent quality cutters. I'm also quick to add that precautionary blob of superglue to the ends.  Less elegant than solder, or a crimp perhaps but effective.

You needn't spend a fortune either. Transfil Flying Snakes are c. £25, very durable and supposedly 30% lighter thanks to the Kevlar/composite outers. Forget cable cuffs, or helicopter tape at your paintwork's peril and installation requires more patience compared with other brands I've used. 

 I’m pleased to report the Ergon Orthocell Handlebar tape  Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  was still receptive to being re-wound and shows little signs of wear. Elsewhere, I’d been having a few issues with a Garmin pattern mount and the Gaciron Xiaoman 1000 light, so took a gamble on an auction site stem mount…

Despite some initial scepticism and tiny screws for the Garmin and GoPro patterns, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily it came together and crucially, how securely it holds the Gaciron Xiaoman and Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing. Suffice to say, I’ve bought a second.