Sometimes ablutions induce
inspiration. Unleashing Godzilla upon an unexpecting sewer system, I suddenly
realised the Dawes mtb frameset and Driven, road crankset, would be
incompatible.
No idea, why this Eureka moment hadn’t dawned earlier, but
crucially, it did.
Mid Purge, those hairs-breadth
memories, of Stronglight 100 arms and Univega chainstays, roared past at light
speed.
Simplest thing all round…Sell the Sun Race unit, a Shimano Tiagra double,
buy a Shimano Zee and turn a modest profit. Found the latter for £68. 170mm, 5
mm short of ideal but I’ll raise the seatpost by 5mm to compensate.
Right part, space reclaimed
and monies recouped.
No faff, no fuss and the 36
ring, mated to a 13-27 cassette would give a decent spread of ratios. Time is
another resource, to be factored into this and frankly, any build/project.
Wasting it, on the wrong
people, or indeed, component is frankly, foolish. Well, that’s not entirely fair. Indeed,
conversely there is sound argument for sticking with something, until you have
it sussed. Learning how to strip and rebuild a bike/engine, or similar task is
invaluable, in many respects, and closely linked to personal discipline.
However, the point I am making
here is a cost-benefit-efficiency analysis. For example, I can weld to a
satisfactory, basic standard. One, which is adequate for my needs and pays for
itself, within those designated limits.
Undertaking a certification-based
course would certainly improve my welding skill and with it, a tremendous sense
of satisfaction. Another course of study might, be a more efficient use of
resources, fiscal and personal.
Back to project gravel, a fair
bit of rationalisation is needed before I am at the stage, where I can commence
phase 2. Laying out and designating parts proper.
Rationalising equipment also
applies to photography.
Another rule of mine. Any
upgrades must run in parallel, with selling on unwanted/unused equipment. I
recently acquired this Samsung NX300, which, is primarily for street
photography, where compact dimensions don’t draw the same sort of (unwanted)
attention from would be subjects. Or confrontation with, heavy handed and/or
misinformed security personnel.
Why the NX300? Well, I found
myself erring dangerously close towards one of Fuji’s X series. Undeniably
pretty, this would’ve meant another system of lenses and yes, unnecessary
outlay. I already had the NX1000 and lenses, which were
interchangeable and still in great condition.
However, my NX100 (originally launched
to compete alongside Sony’s NEX3 and 5) was doing something close to nothing,
wasn’t of the same calibre and bought during a difficult divorce. Served its
purpose, needed to go.
This Mayo Jaune polish is
proving more versatile than I first expected, achieving impressive results on
polished and plated surfaces too. Consistency and smell are rather reminiscent
of another, almost ubiquitous, yellow cutting compound. Polishes and waxes are
two very different products but often confused. For example, common or garden polymer-based
car waxes will remove traces of oxidisation and mask swirls/scratches.
However, a polish is designed
(in this instance, chemically) with abrasive particles. These cut into the top
layer, removing oxidisation, light corrosion, dulling etc. That said; they
aren’t a magic bullet. Brushed and matt finishes, such as titanium or matt
carbon surface will become shiny, if its been polished, in the traditional
sense. Hence the importance, of using matt-specific products.
Given a harsh winter and early
season, the “Teenage Dream” has been hibernating far too long. Fancying some
variable gear fun, I swapped the Schwalbe Lugano, for a lighter, faster 25mm
section Vee Tire Co Rain Runner (Now known as Rolldiac, remember).
Its widget bar wrap was
looking a little grimy in places, so gently cleaned with some Duck Smart Black
Stuff Degreaser gel. I stripped chain and cassette of pre-existing, residual
lube, using the Crankalicious Gumchained remedy.
Predictably, a wash n’ polymer
waxing followed. Last; but not least, some chain lube. Dry/Wax…Plumped for TF2 ultra
dry chain wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tf2
, which runs super clean but requires
several hours curing time.
I discovered its long serving
wireless computer wasn’t registering. Tried the usual diagnostics; proximity of
sensor to magnet, changing the sensor battery etc, just a big fat zero…. A
flash of inspiration saw me try this fuchsia Knog NERD- bingo!
