Realisation & Continued Rationalisation

Sometimes ablutions induce inspiration. Unleashing Godzilla upon an unexpecting sewer system, I suddenly realised the Dawes mtb frameset and Driven, road crankset, would be incompatible. 

No idea, why this Eureka moment hadn’t dawned earlier, but crucially, it did.

Mid Purge, those hairs-breadth memories, of Stronglight 100 arms and Univega chainstays, roared past at light speed. 

Simplest thing all round…Sell the Sun Race unit, a Shimano Tiagra double, buy a Shimano Zee and turn a modest profit. Found the latter for £68. 170mm, 5 mm short of ideal but I’ll raise the seatpost by 5mm to compensate.

Right part, space reclaimed and monies recouped.

No faff, no fuss and the 36 ring, mated to a 13-27 cassette would give a decent spread of ratios. Time is another resource, to be factored into this and frankly, any build/project.

Wasting it, on the wrong people, or indeed, component is frankly, foolish.  Well, that’s not entirely fair. Indeed, conversely there is sound argument for sticking with something, until you have it sussed. Learning how to strip and rebuild a bike/engine, or similar task is invaluable, in many respects, and closely linked to personal discipline.  

However, the point I am making here is a cost-benefit-efficiency analysis. For example, I can weld to a satisfactory, basic standard. One, which is adequate for my needs and pays for itself, within those designated limits.

Undertaking a certification-based course would certainly improve my welding skill and with it, a tremendous sense of satisfaction. Another course of study might, be a more efficient use of resources, fiscal and personal.

Back to project gravel, a fair bit of rationalisation is needed before I am at the stage, where I can commence phase 2. Laying out and designating parts proper.

Rationalising equipment also applies to photography.

Another rule of mine. Any upgrades must run in parallel, with selling on unwanted/unused equipment. I recently acquired this Samsung NX300, which, is primarily for street photography, where compact dimensions don’t draw the same sort of (unwanted) attention from would be subjects. Or confrontation with, heavy handed and/or misinformed security personnel.

Why the NX300? Well, I found myself erring dangerously close towards one of Fuji’s X series. Undeniably pretty, this would’ve meant another system of lenses and yes, unnecessary outlay.   I already had the NX1000 and lenses, which were interchangeable and still in great condition.

However, my NX100 (originally launched to compete alongside Sony’s NEX3 and 5) was doing something close to nothing, wasn’t of the same calibre and bought during a difficult divorce. Served its purpose, needed to go.  

This Mayo Jaune polish is proving more versatile than I first expected, achieving impressive results on polished and plated surfaces too. Consistency and smell are rather reminiscent of another, almost ubiquitous, yellow cutting compound. Polishes and waxes are two very different products but often confused. For example, common or garden polymer-based car waxes will remove traces of oxidisation and mask swirls/scratches.

However, a polish is designed (in this instance, chemically) with abrasive particles. These cut into the top layer, removing oxidisation, light corrosion, dulling etc. That said; they aren’t a magic bullet. Brushed and matt finishes, such as titanium or matt carbon surface will become shiny, if its been polished, in the traditional sense. Hence the importance, of using matt-specific products.

Given a harsh winter and early season, the “Teenage Dream” has been hibernating far too long. Fancying some variable gear fun, I swapped the Schwalbe Lugano, for a lighter, faster 25mm section Vee Tire Co Rain Runner (Now known as Rolldiac, remember). 

Its widget bar wrap was looking a little grimy in places, so gently cleaned with some Duck Smart Black Stuff Degreaser gel. I stripped chain and cassette of pre-existing, residual lube, using the Crankalicious Gumchained remedy.

Predictably, a wash n’ polymer waxing followed. Last; but not least, some chain lube. Dry/Wax…Plumped for TF2 ultra dry chain wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tf2  , which runs super clean but requires several hours curing time.

I discovered its long serving wireless computer wasn’t registering. Tried the usual diagnostics; proximity of sensor to magnet, changing the sensor battery etc, just a big fat zero…. A flash of inspiration saw me try this fuchsia Knog NERD- bingo!