Motor oil has always been
cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the
winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier
months.
Petrol’s solvent properties
will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties
behind.
Lubes such as Finish Line
1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line
work to much the same principle.
These are effective enough and
a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me
go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially
lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.
DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY
DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE
PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.
So then, I’d been out on “the
old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and
bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the
chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar
faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.
Back home, I decided now was
the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain
degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.
Now, choice of motor oil is
very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are
designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil
pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant
properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little
as 30miles, in some instances.
Therefore, something basic,
ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though
cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small
quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop
into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some
clean rag. No hanging around, waiting
for it to cure. Super slick, too.
My cross inspired fixed gear
winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain
was also running out of waxy prep, so was
also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a
lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).
Staying with motor oils a
moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame
preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service…
Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will
offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.
Winter bikes sporting
decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a
high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag
once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.
Elsewhere and with the clocks
going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub
build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy
and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe
2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear
blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power
down/fail, there is always a backup.
Strictly speaking (and
according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided
it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read
legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.
Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This
serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on
the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions,
tackling roundabouts/similar.
In terms of numbers 15 lumens
is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work,
although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.
Helmet/luggage mounting
is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A
technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree
on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...
