Weathering Storms

 I continue to carefully work through and rationalise the spares bins, taking stock of what’s still relevant/required and what can be released. Much of this boils down to contact points. For example, I ride exclusively with recessed SPD/pattern and Time ATAC systems. No sense in clinging on to Keo patterns.  

Nothing wrong with them per se.  Rather, I prefer the convenience of being able to walk (rather than the undignified hobble) without chewing the composite cleat, or gouging holes in expensive linoleum. 

With that in mind, I’ve just taken delivery of these rather fetching Wellgo M)94B 9/16 SPD Shimano Cleat Compatible Sealed Bearing Pedals.  These are the silver versions, which should also keep their looks longer than a black, or similarly painted counterpart. Some painted finishes tire quicker than others. 

Powder-coated versions, including these XLC can prove very hardy, others can flake away, with repeated entry/exit. Much of this boils down to price I.e. quality of powder coating and process I.e. properly blasted bodies given a high-quality zinc-rich primer coat fare best. 

Saddles are another component that can require re-homing. 

Older/cheaper models can go, higher-end/genuinely compatible models, stay. Switching to the Pro Turnix has proven a wise decision. More supportive than the Stealth, 2g heavier than the otherwise very agreeable and cheaper BBB Echelon. However, the Turnix offers plenty of support, without any loss in pedaling efficiency.      

Flooding and similar life-changing destruction has been a theme in some parts of the UK. Here, though blustery, winds have ranged between 27 and 40 mph. The former proving passable, albeit still challenging riding conditions.  

Save for some very cold nights, there’s no hint of the snow, assured by the “red top” tabloid press for several months now. Spiked tyres have remained slumbering in storage.   

I have a love/hate relationship with waterproof socks. The truly impervious TPU lined versions are genuinely impervious-right to the cuff-line.  

However, they also tend to become unpleasantly clammy. Boiled in the bag feet, leading in some instances to athletes’ foot and similar infections. Fabrics which aren’t completely waterproof but highly water-resistant and fast-wicking are my preference. For these reasons, the Oxford Products Ox Sox https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ox-socks  have proved extremely agreeable.  

They’re not cycling-specific, which isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker, it adds to their versatility in many respects. However, more traditional touring shoes and MTB booties are as snug as you’ll find compatible.  

The relentlessly wet conditions require more frequent maintenance. I’m still running the White Lightning Extreme Wet lube and I’m past the 300mile marker on a single helping, with little sign of it relenting. Hardly prodigious perhaps, 400+isn’t uncommon from a stodgy wet formula.  

Motor and chainsaw oils are surprisingly effective and extremely cheap. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cheap-as-chips-chain-lubes provided of course, you’re very vigilant when it comes to cleanliness. i.e. wiping the side plates, rings, derailleur cages at least weekly. Otherwise, that sludgy grinding paste will consume chains and other drivetrain components at a rapid rate. Its reckoned 10spd chains should be retired by the time wear registers .6, 11 speed at .5.  

Chain checking tools are sensible investments (although wear can be accurately assessed using a very accurate ruler). Basic chain checkers can be had for £3, or less. More sophisticated digital fare carries a commensurate price tag but their improved accuracy may recoup monies longer-term i.e. not retiring chains just in time-not too early, or too late.  

Theoretically extending the longevity of more expensive components. During my rationalization, I uncovered this electroplated BBB model. One that I’d had since 2007 but that had been AWOL for a few years. It had fallen from the tool board and beneath the chest freezer.  

Arguably the simplest of this breed, it has a couple of unique features. See the two cutouts? One is designed to remove valve cores, the other is a 5,6 and 8mm box spanner. Not the most useful functions on a contemporary build perhaps but better than dead space.   

Anyhow, the chain function is incredibly simple to use. Place between a designated length of chain, if the teeth sink into the links-low enough that it sits horizontal, the chain is shot. My Univega’s Sram is showing moderate signs of wear but not pensionable just yet. A few hundred miles-three weeks at the current rate before I switch to an FSA I have in stock.  

Lighting, Lubes & Log Cabins

So, I’ve reached our conclusions regarding the Ugoe 2000 headlight https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ugoe-2000   and The Oxford Bright Stop rear LED light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-bright-stop-rear-led-light I’ve turned my focus to mile munching with the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/1367504860051913/  which are performing convincingly, both on and off road. https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/324364064784396/c

No, they’re not a trail tyre, in the cross country mtb sense. Rather they’re go-anywhere, all-terrain rubber. Sure, they’re not going to carve through the gloop like an aggressive knobbly, or glide over asphalt with the same speed as a slick.

However, rolling resistance is considerably lower than their weight and 26x2.0inch profiles would suggest. Off road, they’ll take unmade tracks, bridle path and less intense forest trails, in their stride. The stuff that really turned me on, to mountain biking as a teenager. Also explains Gravel’s appeal (much the same principle, just tackled on bikes with more cyclo cross in their DNA).

Lightweight, rugged machines that could go anywhere and perform with similar finesse. Slower across asphalt than a road or touring rig but the ability to vanish at speed along a dirt road. Feeling the ear to ear grin grow and leaving the world behind.

Powerfully enticing now, much less a bored teen, stifled by school’s rigid conformity. I wasn’t disinterested in education, just the context and curriculum. Thankfully, there were a few suitably disruptive students, for teachers to actively “zoo-keep”.

This left me to read the latest Specialized or Cannondale test, sans introspection, let alone chastisement.  My sincerest thanks go to Jane Wright (as she was, then) who rose from her seat and burst into the Communards’ “Don’t leave me this way”. Surreal, in the Dennis Potter sense. Perfectly timed, mid-afternoon, during double French, with Miss Diaper...

Back to 2018…

As things turn wetter, thoughts turn to waterproof kit and we’ve also been putting some wallet friendly panniers, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford  mudguards https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-full-length-mudguard-kit  and tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-easy-street-tyre  through their paces. Aimed at commuters, all three seem to offer a decent amount of bang, for modest buck.

  

The motor oil challenge continues and much as I expected. The 5w/40 remains very stoical but is collecting moderate amounts of gunk, which are being purged on a weekly basis before it becomes a drivetrain gobbling, grinding paste.  Stoicism aside, shifts are very slick and silent, I latterly dribbled a tiny drop into every link.

There’s no one formula, for every occasion, in my experience, hence I like to alternate between lubricants, depending on the season. Self-cleaning wax types are particularly appealing. Low friction, lower maintenance (save for more frequent reapplication).

Home brewed variants are also extremely cheap to make (once you’ve got the consistency right). However, some commentators forget that the time and materials invested in this, have a cost (not to mention, mess) implication, which pushes their real “start-up” cost considerably higher (although I fully appreciate this can be recouped quite quickly over time).

Similarly, if you are unsure of correct brewing procedure, buying stock products is much cheaper than an explosion. The sort, resulting in an open plan terrace, and strained neighbourly relations.   

One of the major advantages shared by motor oil, chainsaw oil and more traditional wet lubes, is the ability to drizzle on, wipe and scoot off. Perfect during late autumn and winter, where daylight is at a premium.

Speaking of forest fun, Sharon booked us a Forest Holidays break, in Nottingham last week. https://www.forestholidays.co.uk/?channel=ppc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoo7gBRDuARIsANeJKUZ7A2ySyU__cEKkSfGO4ECVjym1pua6fPB-flh5RolooJh1ngRO6IYaAt14EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Despite some poor light, and inclement conditions, I managed a fair bit of mooching and captured a bit of trail action, for good measure.

En route up, I dropped my Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub wheel, with John Moss. Unfortunately, John says the hub is poorly, rendering spoke tensioning academic. Thankfully, Ison distribution www.ison-distribution.com have come to my rescue and will sort, under warrantee…

Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html  

5W 40 The Motor Oil Challenge

Motor oil has always been cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier months.

Petrol’s solvent properties will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties behind.

Lubes such as Finish Line 1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line  work to much the same principle.

These are effective enough and a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.

So then, I’d been out on “the old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.

Back home, I decided now was the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.

Now, choice of motor oil is very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little as 30miles, in some instances.

Therefore, something basic, ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some clean rag.  No hanging around, waiting for it to cure. Super slick, too.

My cross inspired fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  was also running out of waxy prep, so was also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).

Staying with motor oils a moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service… Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.

Winter bikes sporting decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.     

Elsewhere and with the clocks going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe 2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power down/fail, there is always a backup.

Strictly speaking (and according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.

Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions, tackling roundabouts/similar.

In terms of numbers 15 lumens is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work, although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.

Helmet/luggage mounting is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...