Tubes, Lubes & Tape Tribulations

 

I’ve been taking advantage of primarily dry conditions and defaulted to the Teenage Dream’s skinny-tyred charms. Down tube friction shifters aren’t everyone’s thing but these and the Campagnolo Victory mechs they command, are slick and reliable.  

Sure, I wouldn’t race with friction setups, but for training and general riding along open roads, fine. Went to pluck it from the hook for a dawn ride, only to discover the rear tyre was pancake flat.  

No matter, Ursula needed a run and I needed to double-check the Micro shift/Sun race/Shimano drivetrain was still playing nicely.  

Dialling in a stiffer spring tension was definitely the way forward. Not that I was pogo-ing, just a little too reactive for my tastes and the machine’s loftier stance. Crisp, seamless and predictable shifting, a big grin across my face as my mind roamed freely. 

Sorted the Teenage dream’s flat on my return-a sharp had nicked the rear tyre’s casing and grazed the tube, so pressure loss was, thankfully incredibly pedestrian. Struck away from the seam, so easily patched. Back into the wedge pack, as a spare. The chain was beginning to look a little thirsty.  

Nothing serious, but now was convenient. I stripped the chain with solvent, dried and switched to the Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Curing times are less convenient than the Tru Tension Banana Slip All weather LubeTRU TENSION TUNGSTEN ALL WEATHER LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but its clean and surprisingly durable.  

In common with other waxy type dry lubes, residual stuff clinging to the freewheel/cassette gets reclaimed by the chain, extending topping up times. Ursula is still running the third helping and I exceeded 400miles on the second. Chances are, I’ll switch to The Peaty’s Link Lube Wet, come the next replacement chain, which will probably coincide with October.

  

The Link Lube Wet is proving a great fit for the fixed’s KMC chain-keeping it serene and quiet. Both machines sport silicone bar wraps and I’m a huge fan of their damping and grip-hell and high water. The one minor downside, especially with bright colours, is the ease at which they accumulate grimy patinas.  

On the plus side, they can be tossed in the wash at 30 degrees, when really sullied. However, this is hardly the most desirable route when you’ve just fixed a flat by the roadside and grabbed the bars with slightly oily digits.  

Dark colours are the best bet, especially for daily drivers but then again, I like something quite bold for winter. Foaming type waterless cleaners get the worst out but be prepared to give them a regular tickling with a medium stiff brush (I’m really fond of Oxford Products Tyre ScrubTESTED: OXFORD PRODUCTS TYRE SCRUB BRUSH (sevendaycyclist.com) dipped in neat degreaser/bike wash concentrate and rinse with warm, then cold water.     As if by magic, some Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape arrived in the post-Thank you Connor.  I’ve gone for black but white, or a tan brown are the alternatives. Rubbery texture aside, it’s also 3.5mm thick, which promises excellent damping.  

The nights and mornings are gradually becoming darker. I run the K-Lite dynamos during the day but now the mornings are getting darker, blinkies are engaged for most rides-usually the Ravemen CL05RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and CL06 RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but I’ve also taken to mounting the Moon Sheild X Ultra MOON SHIELD X AUTO REAR LIGHT REVIEW? (sevendaycyclist.com) on Ursula’s Carradice SQR Tour.  

A nice height, closely aligned with driver eye levels. It’s a model that is slightly “Marmite”. Some (such as yours truly) think it’s fabulous, others feel it’s anything but user-friendly. There are 9 modes in total, which is excessive by some standards, and I must admit, I default to the flashing modes, since for me, they strike the best balance between output and economy.  

I’ve also needed to add a shim between the K-lite Bike Packer Ultra lamp and Velo Orange mount, since the former ad a tendency to migrate upwards-very slowly-washboard tarmac being the main culprit. Aside from being mildly irritating to me, I didn’t want it dazzling oncoming traffic. Nothing a quick delve through the bodge box and two fresh cable ties couldn’t solve.  

To date, I haven’t given much thought to replacing Ursula’s rear Schwalbe Marathon Mondial DD. It’s still perfectly serviceable. The Schwalbe Marathon GT 365TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com) is an obvious substitution. These are exceptionally reliable and extremely durable. However, they are also hefty, and I fancy something sprightlier.  

There is still a reasonable amount of decent quality 26inch rubber around but it’s losing favour, just as 27inch did, I the late 80s. Supply issues are another problem here in the UK. Masked by the pandemic, European manufacturers are in no hurry to export to the UK, given the added paperwork and delays, which are likely to worsen in the coming months.   

Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html