If the Shoe & Luggage Fits...Racemmute

 Fresh cleats instated; I’ve begun racking up the miles with the FLR Rexton Trail and Touring Shoes. Notice the shroud just covering the cleat? Apparently, this is to protect it from premature wear/damage, but it also necessitated positioning the cleat further back than I would ordinarily. Otherwise it wouldn’t engage with the pedal mechanism. That done entry/exits are crisp, clean affairs.  

The sole is described as “medium stiff” Coming from the Quoc Pham, there’s a bit more give but not the sort that impairs a decent cadence. It’s most obvious riding fixed, where I’m climbing out of the saddle, on the climbs. Less so, on my Univega, given the broad, moderate range, which is conducive to seated cruising and climbing.  

The synthetic upper features mesh venting and laser perforations, which so far are offering reasonable airflow, without letting water in. It’s worth noting that, thus far, I’ve only been exposed to light-moderate rain and haven’t submerged my feet in a puddle.  

Striking the correct balance between tour and trail is quite tricky, although there’s some obvious overlap between the two, the sole needs to be compliant enough for walking in, offer sufficient grip, yet not attract masses of gloopy mud on those occasions where you’ve decided to explore an unmade road/towpath/trail.  

I have relatively long, narrow feet, thus prefer sleeker designs, such as the FLR and these long serving Shimano, over the wider, trainer styled versions. Looking for a fast, stable and lightweight folder? This 12 kilo Tern Verge. It boasts and intriguing blend of components from road and mountain bike groupsets  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tern-verge-p10-folding-bicycle  

The Tru Tension All Weather lube continues to hold on, 300, changeable miles hence. I could’ve held off a bit longer, but these lubes are best topped up, rather than run dry. Very reasonable-although I’d hope so, given the marketing and price point. 

Cleanliness and low friction remain the main draws, although I’ll be sticking to its wet sibling on my fixed gear winter trainer. For a wet blend, it’s also comparatively clean, although it does transfer to fingers more readily than the all conditions counterpart.  

Steve’s been quite impressed with Rock n’ Roll Super Slick Greasehttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-super-slick-grease which is designed for those with seals and those which move. Hubs and suspension components being the most obvious candidates.  

Lights aren’t the most obvious consideration this time of year-it's light from 5.30 am and dusk only sets in around 20.30. However, working bikes aside, these conditions are very conducive to extended playtimes on the best bike(s). 

Therefore, a set of blinkies is a shrewd move, just in case you discover an interesting detour, or get a flat. I’m sticking with the K-Lite Dynamos https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite-bikepacker-ultra-dynamo-ligh and https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite up front but Bob Elliot & Co (link) have sent the Ravemen TR30M and Ravemen TR50. The TR30 is a translucent design, which theoretically provides 360degree illumination. As the name suggests, maximum output is 30 lumens and run times cited as being 1.7 and 15 hours (steady and rapid flash respectively).  

There’s a memory function, so you can just prod and scoot off without cruising through the four other modes. There’s an auto kick down function, so, should the lithium polymer cell’s reserves dwindle, it’ll default to rapid flash. The TR50 packs a total of 50 lumens (flashing) and 6 modes. 50 lumens should be sufficient for daytime duties too.  

Looking at the lens suggests it might have better rearward, rather than peripheral punch and I’m not completely sold on the bracket but time and regular use in different contexts will tell.  I’ve switched the Dill Pickle bag for this Passport Bike Packing Seat Saddlepack.  

This genre of luggage is designed primarily for lighter, bulkier items-clothes being the most obvious, but for the time being, I’ve slipped a few tools at the bottom and slipped inner tubes atop. The Passport seems well constructed and very steady, which isn’t always the case. 

 I can’t stand sway, so was delighted by the double post strap, which seems very secure on my Univega’s narrower 26.6mm post.  Oh, racemmute? I am referring to treating your ride to work, as you would a race. Maybe it’s those years spent belting through the capital but doing otherwise feels unnatural...  

Diversions & Fixations

Due to the sheer demand for Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating's expert services, my trailer and TIG welded forks blast n' paint rebirth, has been postponed. One of those things. I'd never ask anyone to work beyond their capacity. I wouldn't welcome it, so why would anyone else!

For some reason, the Halo Fixed-G https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-fixed sprocket's lock-ring, will not stay tight, subsequently, the sprocket moves along the splines. This would partly account for the annoying, low level chatter when riding across anything other than virgin tarmac.

Then of course, there's the selection of loose fasteners, zip-ties etc residing in the Carradice SQR Tour's side pockets. Lived in patina aside, mine's still looking great, 18 years on and is arguably the best option for my (general riding) needs. Big lock, tools, change of clothes/shoes, tubes, food and tooling- easily swallowed.

The only minor consideration is weight distribution. Laden anywhere close to their ten kilo capacity, the SQR and its Carradry cousin  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry    can be something of a handful. That said; it’s a characteristic that I became accustomed to, and accounted for, within a matter of rides.

Back to sprockets...For the time being, I've gone for this 15-tooth, Andel Threaded Cro mo track unit-mounted on the hub's threaded side (obviously). Given these get the lion's share of dodgy water, salt and other detritus, greasing the threads with a suitably stiff grease, is essential. In this instance, I've opted for a ceramic, to avoid galvanic union later on.

I prefer ceramics. Durability and to some extent cleanliness being the main draw. However, a synthetic PTFE fortified prep will be fine, even on Titanium/aluminium interfaces. Old fashioned lithium greases are also fine...Provided you are pairing an aluminium alloy sprocket and hub.

I've also forgone the lock ring- for now. Lock rings are a sensible move. However, I find, even given a liberal greasing, the forces placed upon a fixed transmission, ensures sprockets get wound on very tightly.

Harmonious swoosh restored. I would be interested to try Level Components "bolt on" system, which in theory, should be the most secure going, albeit another demanding dedicated  sprockets.

What I’d expect, from a straight cut, CNC machined example. Bevelled sprockets have their place and tend to be relatively cheap. Hence their popularity on road bikes, converted to fixed. 

Overcast, slightly oppressive humidity has been the climatic theme these past week, or so. Nonetheless, I've managed to get out, and really let my hair down on the Holdsworth. No word from Apeman regarding the sheared A80 casing and mount. For the time being, video falls exclusively to my Tom Tom Bandit, which is beautifully intuitive to use. 

Though slightly quirky, the swoopy Soma Condor drops and Tektro RL520 lever are proving inspired revisions. Revisions offering improved control, both in terms of leverage and braking. The bars shallower drop ensures I can hunker lower than with the pursuit type.

I liked the Highway1 handlebars, too https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars. Another relatively shallow design but one that felt deeper, probably given I was running a TT type lever, at the end. I spend much of my time on "open" roads and relatively quiet lanes. Thus, this voluptuous genre, are a better fit. 

The Tektro RL 520 and Miche dual pivot calliper are a decent marriage, offering lots of controlled bite. Enough power to lift the rear wheel, so not something I'll be looking to upgrade. No call for a rear brake, unless you run a flip-flop (Fixed and freewheel setup) or live in a really mountainous region (at which point, you probably wouldn't be running a fixed, or single speed setup).

Other contemplated revisions, include the Crank Brothers Cobalt 3 seatpost, in favour of this Genetic Syngenic https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-syngenic-seatpost . While I love the Cobalt3's inline design, svelte profile (250g for 400mm, anyone?) I'm less endeared by the single clamp. One that is fiddly to adjust, and more prone to slippage, compared with other designs. Single bolt, or otherwise.   

Aside from the greater leverage/control, wide bars also open the chest cavity, which assists breathing, and of course efficient climbing. Gearing between 76.1 and 81 inches, is arguably bang on, for most road contexts.

https://www.facebook.com/sevenday.cyclist/videos/2068629046766215/

Tall enough for maintaining a steady 20mph, without grinding up the gradients, or spinning out on the descents, like a demented, caffeine-fuelled hamster.  Talking of which, check cleat health regularly. Unplanned disengagement at 25mph plus is a very unwelcome, and potentially painful and expensive experience.  We have become very accustomed to a fantastic system of universal healthcare, here in the UK.

As is to be expected, given its enormity, there are sections of the NHS that would merit improvement, However, the present political administration seems determined to dismantle, in favour of a US-style, insurance-based system.

Combine that with a public happy to share their DNA, in order to "discover their ancestors" and "heritage", it’s not difficult to see how an insurer could test for genetic susceptibility and increase premiums (or indeed, decline insurance for certain conditions). This would also have implications for other things, including mortgages, and related premiums.

Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html  

Staying Ahead

 

As I intimated in my last entry, my fixed gear winter/trainer’s FSA Orbit Aheadset, is at the beginning of the metaphorical end.
 


This presented an ideal opportunity to see how resilient Pure bike grease is, compared with Green Oil eco grease and through Autumn/early winter. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test

Another Woodman Saturn, like that fitted to the Teenage Dream and Holdsworth was my first choice, not least as they’re incredibly smooth and very well sealed from the elements. However, these have been discontinued and finding something NOS (New old stock) was proving tricky.

With that in mind, FSA Orbit XLII seemed an obvious and relatively inexpensive alternative. Mine for £18.99. Just as well replacement isn’t urgent, since it arrived without one of the cups. Nonetheless, to their credit, the dealer apologised and rushed me a replacement cup 1st class.

Unless we get a more exotic grease in for testing, I will probably default to Park PPL1  or White Lightning Crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease . Think I’ll make a boot from old inner tube around the lower race for some additional protection, while I’m at it.

An old 26x1.95 Kenda thorn resistant model seems an ideal candidate but generally speaking, any Mountain bike/BMX section will fit snugly without recourse to cable ties/similar.

These might be necessary on old fashioned 1 inch headsets. Bear in mind that traditional Lithium and Teflon infused greases will rot butyl over time. Counter argument says we should strip, inspect and possibly, re-grease regularly.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to winter riding. Really stiff greases and stay put chain lubes, or lighter, cleaner formulas, replenished more frequently. I confess to a hybrid approach.

Really stout polymer type greases for bearings and component assembly, cleaner and lower friction chain lubes/waxes. Provided of course; that roads/trails aren’t waterlogged or snowbound.

Another blast from the past came in the form of Panaracer Pasala PT. Those who’ve been riding a good couple of decades or longer will probably recognise it as the tour guard-it’s just been re-named and justly so, given it ranges from 700x23 to 26x1.75.

25mm is narrow enough for general road duties and audax/weekend touring, although the bigger sections are perfect for gravel, or cyclo cross bikes that earn their keep as winter/training bikes. At 255g (each), the 25mm folders are pretty svelte but feature a puncture repelling Aramid belt.

Samples aside, unless bike(s) in question were on strict, calorie controlled diets, I’d be inclined to go for the wire bead version. Ours proved tricky customers with deeper section rims, such as the Holdsworth’s Miche-after much primal grunting, I resorted to my mighty Cyclo workshop tyre lever.

Formative impressions are favourable, although tyre compounds and other technology have advanced considerably in recent years, so they face stiff competition from models such as Vee tire co rain runner, which seem that bit faster and more dependable at full pelt and in foul weather.

Not that we’ve had anything close to the apocalyptic, stormy conditions predicted to hit these shores. Conditions have become damper mind, the lanes are paved with bovine dung, which is a decidedly slippery customer-worse when it’s glistening with ice.

I wasn’t surprised to discover more persistent rain and wet backroads have put a dent in the TF2 ultra dry wax’s economy. Needing a stiffer, yet still clean running pour and go potion, I headed to my lube box.

A quick rummage unearthed this Motorex dry chain lube, which is a fully synthetic hybrid of oil and wax. Previous experience suggests this composition serves to lock in the lubricant, while a superficially scabby layer of contaminant sticks to the wax.

This version is also similar, yet slightly different from other wax type lubricant. The wax component grabs hold of grot, preventing it sticking to the oily, lubricant properties and becoming a transmission wrecking paste. However, it doesn’t flake off, which can look a little unsightly. Nonetheless, it returns a fairly high mileage per application.   

Now, you’ll excuse me, this Halo white gravel rim and spokes have just arrived from Ison distribution, ready for John to build around the shutter precision PL8 dynohub. Talking of lights, here’s links to the Xeccon Mars blinkies and 900 lumen spear we’ve reviewed recently…  

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-mars-30-rear-light

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-spear-900-front-light