Cantilevers in the mist

The wintry weather gave way to the misty, mild and occasionally blustery stuff, typical of these shores around Christmas. Given the recent postal pilfering, I was relieved to return from a wet and greasy ride to discover a box of contraband had been taken in by a neighbour.

Unfortunately, a series of diplomatic incidents instigated by my elderly and very malevolent feline hastened their retrieval. This package came from Interloc Racing Design (IRD) http://www.interlocracing.com/

These are their CAFAM II cantilevers, which I had earmarked for the Univega. A classic wide arm design, sometimes described as MAFAC pattern. Their beautifully polished, CNC machined arms offer vastly superior mechanical advantage compared with modern, low profile types.

Look a little closer and you’ll notice they’re actually a marriage of retro and contemporary. Yes, there’s the old school cable anchor (which tightens via 10mm nut) less convenient, dare I say sleek, than modern Allen key patterns but effective nonetheless.

Yokozuna Cartridge Brake Shoes (Scott-Mathauser Gen-X salmon compound) are another force to be reckoned with and a doddle to setup.

That said; getting modulation and feel bang on proved trickier than I was expecting. Part of this was down to my brain engaging “M system default” but the combination of moustache bars and shorter reach Microshift brifters can also present minor challenges. If adjustment isn’t exacting, the brake lever will, more or less, touch the bars when engaged with any conviction.

On the subject of brake levers, ten years ago, I ran a similar configuration with Dia Compe V brake specific levers. Purely to see, just how dangerous, or otherwise the combination was.

Firstly, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRACTICE. Simply put, using a V brake lever with a cantilever is the fastest way to pitch yourself over the bars, or lock the rear wheel.

With the Dia Compe, anything more than a faint caress of the lever raised the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Lesson learned.

The other word of caution concerns wide arm cantilevers and smaller frames.

Broader arms can catch heels and in some instances, foul racks/panniers. I may even substitute the On-One cantilevers for the Avid that were formerly up front, next time cable replacement calls. Meantime, I’ll switch over to the tubby tourer, variable gears and of course, testing the IRD.

With this in mind, I’ve added some “helicopter tape” around the top and head tube area. Rubberised cable cuffs are a real boon but wet gritty stuff and Kevlar housings can still make inroads into the paintwork. Yes, even properly applied powder coating.      

I frequently talk about tyres and tyre choice is particularly important during winter. Not only in terms of contact but also puncture resistance. Tackling punctures when it’s cold and dark is no fun.

With that in mind, Cross inspired fixer and I were thwarted by a very aggressive thorn on Thursday morning-I was already running a little behind schedule.

Having pulled over and selecting a sheltered clearing, I opened unzipped the passport wedge pack. Tyre levers, multi tool, cable ties…CO2 inflator…No tube…Patch kit, ummm. How did I manage to leave a tube out!!!

Morale descending close to my boots, I remembered the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack  nestling beneath those beefy drops. Peeling back the zipper tags and reaching in, I found one, yes packet fresh and ready to go. Phew! The miracle before Christmas had indeed materialised.

Thorn extracted, fresh butyl and, 55psi in the Nordic spike, we were back in business.  Now, some folks flat more than others but you can never have too many tubes. If you’re stuck stocking-filler wise, for the cyclist(s) in your life, tubes and Co2 inflators are good, practical bets…        

Snow Joke!

Staying upright in winter can be a significant challenge. Even if the snowman hasn’t brought the white stuff, black and sheet ice can provide the wrong sort of excitement. I even witnessed a horse losing traction along the backroads this week.

Yes, the past ten days or so have been perfect excuses for hibernating, or whirring away hamster fashion on the indoor trainer.  However, they’ve also presented an ideal opportunity to whip on spiked tyres and explore.

In this instance, I’ve been using Continental’s long running Nordic spike 120. 120 denotes the number of tungsten carbide spikes.

These are the 42mm (1.6 inch) 700c versions, which shouldn’t present much difficulty clearance-wise, with the latest generation of disc braked adventure touring Lorries, or gravel builds.

Pure breed crossers will definitely call for the measuring tape and a pause for thought-especially at the rear triangle. My beloved fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear triangle prohibits this and the 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter. Although a pairing is preferable, running a spiked tyre up front certainly makes a big difference to grip.

Just like any other tyre, spiked/studded versions come in different guises, depending on price and intended use.

While both the Schwalbe and Continental use sturdy wire bead casings that will slip aboard deep section rims pretty effortlessly, their tread and design and purposes are actually very different. Yes, both tread patterns scoop away the snow, the spikes then biting into the ice beneath, providing the traction.

However, while I’ve been able to go pretty much anywhere and at a decent pace with the Schwalbe, the 120 stud versions of Continental’s Nordic Spike are positioned along the shoulders.

This makes for swifter progress but favours less extreme, tarmac biased riding. Think slippery suburbs, rather than heavily carpeted lanes, backroads and forest trails. I’d be interested to see how their 240 spiked siblings compare against Schwalbe Marathon Winter.

Whatever model you’re plumping for, it’s worth remembering that while all will deliver reasonable performance on clear asphalt.t roads, bereft of snow and ice, the tread pattern and spikes will result in a degree of resistance.

Not to mention road noise. Both can be annoying but something I’m happy to live with during dicey times-infinitely preferable to coming off and potentially damaging expensive components, or breaking bones.

It’s also worth remembering that some countries recognise e-bikes as powered vehicles. Studded tyres are prohibited on some public roads on the grounds they damage road surfaces.

For this reason, though a faff, it’s worth double checking the law in your country/state before shelling out.  New to riding in and through winter? Have a look at our overviews https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/winter-wonderland-one

Speaking of grip, we’ve reached our conclusion regarding BBB’s flexribbon bar tape and I’ve been pleasantly surprised when everything (although particularly the asking price) is taken into account https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape

Lubricants also need to strike a between staying prowess and cleanliness. Wiping down the side-plates weekly to remove ingrained, drivetrain consuming contaminant, is pretty mandatory for traditional wet formulas. Some riders, usually those who consider price to be the determining factor, regarding anything other than 10w/40 motor oil as “snake oil”.

On the plus side it’s cheap, plentiful and works well enough. However, I’ve tested a fair few bike specific wet lubes over the years and found several at different price points that run cleaner and last a fair bit longer too.

It’s too early to say whether the Nasty lube that arrived a couple of entries back will rival Weldtite Tf2 extreme wet https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr . Mind you, a little seems to be going a very long way and I’ve been traversing some very wet roads these past three hundred miles.

Right, well, after a filthy week’s testing, time I treated my beloved workhorse to a cold water rinse and sudsy bucket wash. Will treat it to this Soma Fabrication Shikoro armoured speed tyre up front and A Soma fabrications Supple Vitesse (700x33c) at the rear. www.somafab.com

Happy Christmas!