Subtle Changes, Great Results

Little n’ often is the way when it comes to winter maintenance. Many problems can be swerved, simply by keeping bikes clean and lightly lubricated. Brush tyres down to remove sharps before they can burrow into the casing and cause flats, remove grit from brake pads, wipe the chain’s side plates, especially if you’re running a wet lube. Mudguards (fenders) and big flaps, such as these RAW https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raw-prismatic  also offer considerable protection to bike and rider alike.

The Zefal Extreme Wet (Ceramic) is proving reassuringly stoical-filmy given 325miles or so but on a derailleur set up, the chain reclaims the excess coting the cassette. I noted the indexing had gone slightly off. Cable tension tweak-sorted.

Funny how things can be textbook perfect on the workstand, yet prove out, on the road/trail. Zoned in, I also turned my attention to the brakes since regularly tackling waterlogged roads sees brakes and other mechanisms coated in dodgy, grimy stuff. This can gum things up, causing the brake arm to drag/stick. The front Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes are great stoppers but needed a quick bit of TLC. Balance screws tweaked, I gave the screws, springs and inner cable a quick shot of heavy-duty maintenance spray, which has brought stopping back up to scratch.

Braking sorted; the Schwalbe Kojak grip the wet, mushy leaf carpeted lanes like the proverbial leach. I have finally retired the rear Continental Contact Speed Reflex https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/continental-contact-speed-reflex-ty  due to a succession of small but rather deep, sharp induced gashes. Thankfully, Monday morning’s puncture proved a slow affair that struck less than 5 minutes from base.

I was aware of a faint hiss but put it down to the swoosh as we glided through the puddles. Any loss of pressure was undetectable until several hours later, when I noticed the rear was sitting pancake flat on the lino floor protector. Aside from being quick rolling and grippy, there’s no tread to catch glass, thorns and flints.

However, slicks with very supple casings are more vulnerable to cuts. Brush them down regularly-Oxford tyre scrub https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-products-tyre-scrub  is probably the best I’ve used to date (not surprising, given it’s tyre specific. Some If slicks aren’t your thing, Schwalbe Marathon Racer might light the spark… https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-racer-tyres

Elsewhere, Bob Elliot & Co www.bob-elliot.co.uk have sent the these FLR Defender Winter Shoes (mtb booties in my book) to test. Timely, in many respects, since my much-loved Lake finally came to the end of their life (sole) after ten winters. Talking of which, no winter cycling discussion would be complete without an overview of lighting  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-ypcqd 

Road versions would be a more obvious choice in some respects, but I only use twin bolt pedals these days. Besides, I want a sporting chance of staying upright when temperatures dip and winter takes hold. Not so easy to hobble back and forth to your bike with an exposed Look/pattern cleat.

I’ve switched the long serving and very likeable Passport Cycles Bike Packing Seat Pack Medium https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-cycles-bikepacking-seat-pa  for this Zefal Z Adventure R5. As the name hints, it’s a 5 litre model (compared with the Passport’s 7) and  a simple, single compartment design, which may prove less convenient. However, it promises to be waterproof, rather than water-resistant and the simple mounting system is intuitive. Incredibly secure with zero sway-despite the single strap and on narrower post diameters.  

Elsewhere, despite the present UK “Lockdown” Town centres seem to bristle with pedestrian traffic and a surprising number of “non-essential” shops/businesses remain open. Not unexpected, given the UK government’s consistent mishandling of the pandemic, U-turning and subsequent loss of public trust. However, in stark contrast to the initial lockdown, where road traffic fell to 1950s levels.    

 

 

Comings & Goings

 Having reached the surprising conclusion that my washer “bodge” has improved the Minoura VC100 camera mount’s tenure, I went out for another 5am blast, only to discover an unnerving flicker coming from the Univega’s K-Lite Bike Packer Ultra dynamo light. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite-bikepacker-ultra-dynamo-ligh 5am BC (Before Coffee) can lead thoughts along some weird warrens.  

In this instance inducing a fleeting fear, said flickering might be a diode/internal issue. Ridiculous given the bombproof build quality but goes to illustrate my attachment to Kerry Staite’s amazing system. Save for its compact Pro V2 cousin https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite, easily the best dynamo lamp I’ve come across.    

At this time of the day, there’s the occasional huge agricultural convoy, so I pulled off road and ironically enough, into a farm track. A quick feel of the unit confirmed the mount had loosened, fractionally, amplified by some minor loosening of the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory mount’shttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou fasteners.  

A 3mm Allen Key and the Passport CDW tool’shttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-cdw-multitool 8mm ring spanner snugged everything down-problem solved in a matter of minutes. Back on the road, I pondered life, the universe, a tanking UK economy and more relevant here, chain lubes. Much as I’d expected, the Juice Lubes Ceramic Chain Juicehttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-ceramic-juice has proved much better this time round.  

The ceramic component offers a decent level of lubrication and I’ve passed 400 miles on a single application before that faint metal on metal tinkling struck. While conditions have been primarily dry and temperatures in the high 20’s/30s, I’ve also tested it through winter, confirming the blend’s properties are unaffected by temperature.  

Some gunk has collected around the derailleur jockey wheels and cage.  

This hasn’t fallen away but is easily dismissed with a clean rag, or, a cotton bud if you’re ultra-fastidious. I’d toyed with the idea of topping up but chose to switch to this Muc Off –50 chain lube. 

Not the most obvious choice for late summer perhaps but we’ve entered a wet, thundery phase and I’m curious to see how it compares with Weldtite TF2 Performance All weather Lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-performance-all-weathe . Their viscosity seems similar and a Canadian rider said it’s the only lube he’s found that will keep going in minus 35... 

This was an obvious time to check the chain for wear. Not that anything felt off but as we’ve already established in my opening paragraph, prevention saves time and money. There are several ways of checking a chain. 

Aside from the vague pull away from the ring test (by which time it’s shot-not good for planned maintenance), you can measure sections with a ruler. However, I much prefer a plug and play approach. Digital gauges have the absolute edge, for outright precision but the simple analogue models are inexpensive, simple and used regularly, will repay their modest investment in no time.   

This nickel-plated BBB has been serving me faithfully for around 12 years and remains my go-to. There is a valve tool at one end and a serrated 8,9 and 10mm wrench at the other, which could come in handy, if you were inclined to carry one in your bike luggage.  

This electroplated Kranx looks like a whale and features a joining tool, holding a new chain in situ, while you drive the pin home. Either way, when it comes to measuring chain health, if the tool will lie flat atop the links, the chain needs retiring. Wherever possible, I replace before this point, in the interest of optimising other component health. With care, a cassette should serve three chains before it needs pensioning off.  

I’ve also been pondering a pad upgrade for my Univega’s Shimano CX50 rear cantilevers, since the originals aren’t really cutting it, for me. By contrast, I’m still really endeared to the Genetic CX Cantileverhttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes  .  

Ample modulation and feel, not to mention power. 

High quality cables are probably the simplest way of upgrading performance but staddle wires and cable carriers shouldn’t be overlooked. I’m wondering if a wider cable hanger, which hangs lower for additional power, will make a marked difference to the already impressive performance.     

Snapped Springs & More Saddle Swapping

Wet, gritty stuff not only consumes chains and other drivetrain components but brake seals and springs too, it seems. Having exited a junction, my relative serenity was interrupted by a strange binding noise. I initially believed it was this BTwin Triban shoe slipping off the Wellgo’s surface, causing my heel to nudge the mudguard out of alignment.  

The chainstay bridge bolt needed nipping tight but there was an unusual amount of slop in the rear brake. I predominantly use the front but nonetheless, the rear needs to be bang-on. Given I was by the roadside, seven miles from home, on a very dark and rainy night, I centered the Avid Shorty 4 and made a mental note to strip and inspect once I’d returned.  

Univega on my long-serving aluminium alloy work stand, I stripped the Avid and discovered the spring had sheared clean in two. Claimed by fatigue but slightly odd, given it didn’t lead a particularly hard life. Presented and opportunity to re-grease the bosses and mounting hardware.  

A nice stiff grease-Park PPL1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/park-tools-polylube-1000   being the obvious choice, since it was already loaded into my gun.  The Genetic CX cantilevers, were an obvious substitute.https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes However, small frames, wide arm cantilevers and size 43/44 feet are a recipe for heel clearance hassles.  

Therefore, I opted for these Shimano CX50. A relatively low- profile model designed to work with Super SLR levers, hence no compatibility (cable pull) hassles with road brifters. Set up is relatively straightforward too and I was able to utilise the existing straddle wire. Rather than Shimano’s Y pattern.  

I’ve also been contemplating a new ring-at the right price. 94BCD is starting to become the preserve of retro pricing these days and choice is similarly, restrictive. Therefore, replacements can be very cheap, or very steep. Research suggests a 36 tooth is as close as I’ll get.  

Though adequate, I’d welcome a slightly lower, closer spread of gears, while still enjoying a 1x10’s simplicity. Much of this has been prompted by persistently high winds. Conditions that have defined the past few months, here in the UK.  

I have also been pleasantly surprised by the stoicism of the Juice Lubes Frame Juice. It does attract some grimy patina but this gets locked into the top layer, meaning you simply dismiss this, using a soft, lint-free cloth.  

An invisible, protective barrier remains and has done so for several weeks before replenishment’s been necessary. One minor consideration is that its designed for gloss finishes, so something like Naked Bikes Bike Bling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/naked-bikes-bike-bling might probe a more cost-effective option if you have a bike or fleet with gloss/satin and matt surfaces.      

Now, no sooner had I played musical saddles; this rather fetching Cycles Berthoud Soulor leather saddle arrived at my door. Measuring 278x146mm and tipping the scales at 423g, its actually 40 odd grams lighter than this titanium railed SPA cycles Aire. One that served on my fixed gear winter trainer, for a good few thousand miles.  

The Aire is made from Australian cowhide, which tends to be thicker and subsequently, took longer to break in. Even with periodic deployment of Proofide/similar leather “food” it took 500 miles before the Aire was moulding to my derriere. 

Putting this into context, a modern Brooks is 250 miles, give, or take. The solour’s rails are a highly polished stainless steel (although there are titanium siblings, if you can stretch to £189) which adds some compliant zing. Unlike electroplating, there’s little risk of them tarnishing, although stainless steels are alloys of different metals. Therefore, a quick buffing and occasional hard-paste waxing never goes amiss.   

In common with the Spa cycles Aire, the underside appears to have been treated, offering it greater protection from the elements. A lesser consideration with full length mudguard perhaps but again, another consideration when buying traditional leather saddles.  

Thus far, ours feels more like a Brooks Swift. Quite firm but not unforgiving. Even so, bedding in has been a very gradual process, starting with as few 25mile loops, before increasing the mileage by ten miles each time, giving the top side periodic helpings of a water-based hide food, to assist this assimilation to my ass.  

Although the evenings are getting steadily lighter and seemingly less wintry, good lighting remains a must. I love the convenience of dynamo systems-at least up front.  Though failures are pretty rare these days, I always run these in conjunction with a compact, commuter type light up front and two rear lights. Aside from presence, so long as good charging discipline’s maintained should one fail, there’s another to get home with.  

Again, being someone who predominantly tackles unlit roads, 15-20 lumens is my minimum-even for a secondary/contingency unit. Up front, even with the dynamo, I tend to go for a 500lumen light, defaulting to flashing (100-150 lumens). However, a steady 250/400/500 lumen mode is really useful for tackling punctures and similar roadside mechanicals-especially if you can mount it atop a helmet, leaving both hands free to do the fixing.  

These Moon Meteor and ETC Sirrah Front/Rear Light have proven particularly good defaults. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised by the Oxford Products Ultratorch R75 rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ultratorch-r75-rear-light  . Its bright, with sensible staircasing, although run times are relatively modest and favour commuting/winter training, rather than longer distance/endurance events.