In this instance inducing a fleeting fear, said flickering might be a diode/internal issue. Ridiculous given the bombproof build quality but goes to illustrate my attachment to Kerry Staite’s amazing system. Save for its compact Pro V2 cousin https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite, easily the best dynamo lamp I’ve come across.
At this time of the day, there’s the occasional huge agricultural convoy, so I pulled off road and ironically enough, into a farm track. A quick feel of the unit confirmed the mount had loosened, fractionally, amplified by some minor loosening of the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory mount’shttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou fasteners.
A 3mm Allen Key and the Passport CDW tool’shttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-cdw-multitool 8mm ring spanner snugged everything down-problem solved in a matter of minutes. Back on the road, I pondered life, the universe, a tanking UK economy and more relevant here, chain lubes. Much as I’d expected, the Juice Lubes Ceramic Chain Juicehttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-ceramic-juice has proved much better this time round.
The ceramic component offers a decent level of lubrication and I’ve passed 400 miles on a single application before that faint metal on metal tinkling struck. While conditions have been primarily dry and temperatures in the high 20’s/30s, I’ve also tested it through winter, confirming the blend’s properties are unaffected by temperature.
Some gunk has collected around the derailleur jockey wheels and cage.
This hasn’t fallen away but is easily dismissed with a clean rag, or, a cotton bud if you’re ultra-fastidious. I’d toyed with the idea of topping up but chose to switch to this Muc Off –50 chain lube.
Not the most obvious choice for late summer perhaps but we’ve entered a wet, thundery phase and I’m curious to see how it compares with Weldtite TF2 Performance All weather Lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-performance-all-weathe . Their viscosity seems similar and a Canadian rider said it’s the only lube he’s found that will keep going in minus 35...
This was an obvious time to check the chain for wear. Not that anything felt off but as we’ve already established in my opening paragraph, prevention saves time and money. There are several ways of checking a chain.
Aside from the vague pull away from the ring test (by which time it’s shot-not good for planned maintenance), you can measure sections with a ruler. However, I much prefer a plug and play approach. Digital gauges have the absolute edge, for outright precision but the simple analogue models are inexpensive, simple and used regularly, will repay their modest investment in no time.
This nickel-plated BBB has been serving me faithfully for around 12 years and remains my go-to. There is a valve tool at one end and a serrated 8,9 and 10mm wrench at the other, which could come in handy, if you were inclined to carry one in your bike luggage.
This electroplated Kranx looks like a whale and features a joining tool, holding a new chain in situ, while you drive the pin home. Either way, when it comes to measuring chain health, if the tool will lie flat atop the links, the chain needs retiring. Wherever possible, I replace before this point, in the interest of optimising other component health. With care, a cassette should serve three chains before it needs pensioning off.
I’ve also been pondering a pad upgrade for my Univega’s Shimano CX50 rear cantilevers, since the originals aren’t really cutting it, for me. By contrast, I’m still really endeared to the Genetic CX Cantileverhttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes .
Ample modulation and feel, not to mention power.
High quality cables are probably the simplest way of upgrading performance but staddle wires and cable carriers shouldn’t be overlooked. I’m wondering if a wider cable hanger, which hangs lower for additional power, will make a marked difference to the already impressive performance.
