Having packed the headset, I
added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ,
if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287
levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of
pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.
Doing so revealed a very sticky
rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve
inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and
easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper
accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.
Cable connected and some more
MO94 Muc-Off
MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner
wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back
and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and
snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things
required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.
These didn’t materialise as
expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so
sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback
branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip
Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but
there wasn’t much leftover.
Inspecting the chain revealed .5,
so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new
cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and
embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle
and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt
Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick
Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash
Super Concentrate.
In essence, the slick Juice is a
low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening
agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is
carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre. Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM
Slick Juice can also be used on
threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The
latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty.
Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued
the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and
chain for any stiff links.
No reason why the Slick couldn’t
be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When
it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At
least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so
easy to achieve a uniform coating
However, avoid EPDM- commonly
employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.
Not that I’ve been stingy. It can
also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if
you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or
indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.
Talking of which, the cheap n’
cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed
Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome
convenience-especially when time’s pressing.
Satisfied everything was
correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and
left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride. Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees,
although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested
curing time of four hours or more.
The sharp-eyed will note the
front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and
better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its
aesthetic, no immediate rush.
Clearly resembling a zebra, I was
shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but
otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the
headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.
Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their
Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising
excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.
The lightweight polyester fabrics
are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind.
I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard
against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when
riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable
sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.
Those seeking more comprehensive
protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is
the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the
neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels
feature slight perforation for improved wicking.
A full-length zipper is something
of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed
adjustments effortless. Round the back,
we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered
end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours
right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver
gray” is the alternative.
I’ve only ridden 100 miles with
ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested
temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600)
where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far,
living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering
but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal.
