Overhauling

 

Having packed the headset, I added a fresh butyl boot to the bottom race, bolted the bars and stem in situ, if only to keep the forks in place. I then decided I fancied the Dia Compe 287 levers over the Gran Compe, so switched those, then got to the business of pruning cable outers and bolting everything together.

Doing so revealed a very sticky rear Spyre calliper. In some respects, a schoolboy omission-I should’ve inspected it while tackling the front. Ultimately, sticky, not seized and easily coaxed into submission with two shots of MO94. Activating the calliper accelerated the process, freeing everything nicely.  

Cable connected and some more MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing applied to the housings and inner wire, normal service restored. Front brake fully home, I rocked the bike back and forth- serenely smooth and no hint of play, so checked alignment and snugged the pinch bolts to 5nm. I quit at this point, since other things required my attention and I was awaiting a fresh set of gear cables.

These didn’t materialise as expected, but thankfully, I had a few inner wires and some suitable outers, so sorted the following morning. I allowed these to stretch and dressed the Ridgeback branded drops in some Genetic Hi Grip Genetic Hi-Grip Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which offered sufficient coverage, but there wasn’t much leftover.

Inspecting the chain revealed .5, so I decided to pension it off, rather than risk it kicking up on a new cassette. I wanted to purge the rings of any congealed wax chain lube and embedded gunk. I also intended to strip and re-grease the Hollowtech II axle and Leatt Endurance 6.0 Pedals Leatt Endurance 6.0 Clip in Pedals | cycling-not-racing using Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Rob at Juice Lubes sent some along with their Bike Wash and Bike Wash Super Concentrate.  

In essence, the slick Juice is a low viscosity mineral oil employing Anhydrous calcium soap as the thickening agent, which prevents washout and other premature deterioration. The mixture is carefully blended, so safe on elastomers, bearing seals and carbon fibre.  Where it mustn’t be used is on EDM

Slick Juice can also be used on threaded components, so I popped some on the preload ring and pinch bolts. The latter released easily enough but were beginning to look a little thirsty. Everything reinstated and snugged to the correct tolerances, pruned and glued the gear cable inners before going through the gears to check shifting and chain for any stiff links.

No reason why the Slick couldn’t be employed in headsets, but I’d already packed them with Bearing Juice. When it comes to headsets, bottom brackets, and hubs, durability gets my vote. At least on bikes serving year-round. Slick Juice’s flow rate is very nice, so easy to achieve a uniform coating  

However, avoid EPDM- commonly employed on e-bike contacts, hydraulic brake olives.

Not that I’ve been stingy. It can also be applied via syringe for pinpoint accuracy-something to consider if you’re wanting to inject fresh grease into components with grease ports, or indeed pedals, without doing a full strip down.

Talking of which, the cheap n’ cheerful Wellgo 823 are incredibly smooth, following the injection of Speed Grease. Both can also be used on threaded components, which is a welcome convenience-especially when time’s pressing.  

Satisfied everything was correctly adjusted, I applied some All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax and left it curing ahead of an evening shakedown ride.  Seemed to cure after three hours at 17 degrees, although I’d ideally leave it overnight-same goes for any lube with a suggested curing time of four hours or more.

The sharp-eyed will note the front derailleur cable housing is a little long, but shifting’s prompt and better too long than too short. I will be pruning in due course, but since its aesthetic, no immediate rush.  

Clearly resembling a zebra, I was shunned by the Shetland ponies-one making his distain perfectly clear but otherwise, the seven-mile mixed terrain shakedown was very positive. Only the headset bearings and the front mudguard needed a subtle snugging down.

Elsewhere, Castelli have sent me their Ultimate Sun Protection: UPF Jersey, which boasts a yarn with factor 50 promising excellent defence from the sun’s UV rays.

The lightweight polyester fabrics are designed with breathability and maximum (factor 50) sun protection in mind. I’ll still advocate wearing a buff-type garment around the neck to guard against sunstroke in more intense heat, or indeed, wind burn. Especially when riding in coastal regions. Obviously, you’ll still want to apply suitable sunscreen to protect exposed areas of skin.

Those seeking more comprehensive protection will be pleased to note there’s also a long-sleeved version. Ours is the seasonally standard short sleeve, cut longer in the arms and around the neck The fabric is thin, without feeling fragile. Front panels feature slight perforation for improved wicking.

A full-length zipper is something of a given these days, but the generous zipper tag makes single-handed adjustments effortless.  Round the back, we’ve four pockets- three sensibly proportioned terraced with a fourth zippered end for valuables. That tag is a little bijous for my tastes and favours right-dominant hands. I can carry vivid orange surprisingly well, but “silver gray” is the alternative.

I’ve only ridden 100 miles with ours, but formative impressions are favourable. Castelli’s suggested temperature range is 20-38 degrees. I’ve been out in the midday sun (12-1600) where the mercury’s been hovering between 24 and 29 degrees and thus far, living up to the hype, although the Large isn’t unduly snug, or unflattering but I’m wondering if XL might’ve been optimal. 

More Bars & Bargains

 

No, not the sort licenced to sell intoxicating liquors. The quiet of Christmas is very welcome and without fail, results in bike-related revisions- whether it's midwinter maintenance- wholesale cable replacement, rings, chains etc, or more specific upgrades.

The festive season can also give rise to expensive flights of fancy- framesets, fork(s), groupsets- unplanned stuff that seems like a great idea in the moment but can contribute to the January fiscal hangover.  

 I turned my attentions to bars. While generally very attached to the WTB Dirt Drops, I find the drop and reach slightly off- too long and deep. It’s worth noting that I am broad across the shoulders but proportionally short in the torso, so getting the front end blissful can require some trial and error. Bike fits are an excellent investment and certainly reduce the guesswork.

Given both the Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and WTB “in stock” there wasn’t any outlay, just experimentation. I wanted to continue this tradition, without being pointlessly tight. Genetic D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing was the obvious contender with its 75mm reach and offered an extra 20mm rise.  

However, I fancied something with a shallower drop. Some NOS Ridgeback Gravel Drops going for proverbial pennies came under my radar. While the Ridgeback don’t feature any rise, they have an 8-degree flare, mm reach, drop. I’d also had half an eye on Genetic’s Digest, which feature a very favourable 76mm reach and 110mm drop.  

One thing led to another, and I found myself acquiring a set of each. It didn’t take me long before I switched Denise’s WTB Dirt drops for the Genetic Digest. Thankfully, though it took a while to port everything over, prune a brake cable outer and similar quick tweaks, no replacements required- this also applied to the Ergon Orthocell Bar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing.

Out on the road, the Digest’s flare is very discernible and gives tremendous leverage, which, aside from trail duties is particularly helpful if you’re towing a trailer, or tagalong. That said, coming from a traditional road bar, steering will feel barge-like to begin with.

Another similarity with On-One’s Midge, they open the chest cavity, which really helps when powering up the climbs- great for cyclo cross, or indeed climbing on the fixed. The only other significant consideration is that greater width can make navigating tight spaces trickier- negotiating congested traffic, or indeed doorways.  

I’ve decided I’ll keep the Ridgeback as spares, should Muffins’ D-riser 4 show any signs of fatigue. As with Ursula, I’ve reach and height absolutely bang on for my needs. Though I’m a fettler, the old saying “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” resonates strongly.      

Another thing to consider when choosing drops, at least for mixed terrain, or indeed, dedicated trail duties (as distinct from cyclo cross, where there’s a lot of dis and re-mounting when things get more technical) is the bar’s uniformity, meaning that lights and other accessories are easily mounted-at the desired angles. 

I’d contemplated retiring the Giant Continuum 9 function computer, but found replacing the batteries, giving the contacts a quick squirt of maintenance spray restored the original performance and appears to have addressed some connectivity issues, especially when riding through areas of high electrical interference. A New Old Stock Blackburn Atom 4 (the wireless version) may well be finding its way to Ursula, assuming I can successfully troubleshoot some minor niggles.

 New contact points and indeed, adjustments always feel different to begin with, hence I leave things set that way for a couple of hundred miles and tweak accordingly

Obviously, a longer threadless steerer and spacer play will have the same effect and overcomes some of the limitations of quill stems and in this instance, adaptors. However, I should also point out, higher end models such as this Profile design are infinitely superior to the generic types found on auction sites. Yes, I’ve used those and they’re adequate, but that’s it.   

Several months down the line. I’m also very impressed by the Wolf Tooth Morse Bottle Cages Wolf Tooth Morse Steel Bottle Cage | cycling-not-racing. Ours were the stainless versions combining a timeless aesthetic with high degrees of adjustability and bottle tenure is excellent. 

 

Lube it, Scrub It, Hold It, True Them

 

Though I generally treat fixed and single speed chains to middleweight wet formulas, I decided Muffin’s Izumi to the Weldtite Wax and was pleasantly surprised by how frisky the transmission felt, while remaining serenely quiet. For context, I was averaging 18.1mph in contexts where otherwise I average 17.1mph.

Without lab testing facilities, much of this is easily attributable to psychosomatic, dare I say novelty influence, so many more miles in different conditions are needed before passing tangible comment. Weldtite say by using the double helping technique I should exceed the 300km mark from a single application, but by how much. What influence, if any do damp, autumnal conditions have upon this and indeed, the lube’s other properties.

Plan is to run it through September and early October, then, chances are I’ll switch to the All-Weather Lube.

Staying with chains, I am always interested in new brushes and similar tech that makes cleaning that bit easier. In my experience, one of the biggest problems is keeping the bristles clean and effective long term.

Too much solvent tends to soften them. Wet lubes and contaminant can also be difficult to shift. This seems the case, regardless of price. I’ve found the most effective technique is to soak them in degreaser, work this into a lather and flush them through-twice. First with very warm, then cool water.

Finally dry (and remove any residual grot with clean rag) The long bristle plots, designed for cassettes and rings are the most vulnerable to this kind of contamination. Will be interesting to see how the Oxford compares with These Finish Line Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing     

 

As the miles rack up, I’m becoming increasingly endeared to the M Part Primo Handlebar Tape.

The texture is grippy but with none of the stickiness associated with some. I’m pleasantly indifferent to the tacky tapes and have grown to love some over time. The Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing being one example. ENVE  Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing is also grippy, though stops short of feeling tacky. Its also very hard wearing and easy to clean.

One thing led to another, and I found myself upgrading Denise's quill stem adaptor from the auction site special to this Profile Design, which is perhaps unsurprisingly, made to an infinitely higher standard, with greater scope for adjustment and clearly marked minimum insert line. I also treated the expander wedge and internal length with some of the Zefal Pro II Grease, which will hopefully keep corrosion and seizure at bay.  These minor tweaks have resolved the minor reach issues.  

While giving the bike a while I'm here once-over, I also noted the front wheel dancing a curious samba. I was somewhat astonished- must’ve caught a rut along a section of newly discovered byway. I switched to the Halo Evaura/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, while I left the Ryde Sputnik/Ultegra dynohub and Mavic Open Pro/Halo Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting with Mick Madgett. An opportunity to explore rougher stuff aboard Ursula and I’d been toying with switching the front Mud Hugger Evo Mudhugger Evo Front Mudguard | cycling-not-racing for something lighter and more minimalist to see just how much difference a smaller guard makes.

Mudguards (fenders) have been slowly creeping into the gravel market. I remain seriously impressed by the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racingbut other, arguably more traditional looking models have been creeping into the market. Some look to be models aimed at folks wanting their gravel bikes to serve as winter road bikes.

Provided your frame has eyelets and you were happy to run just a rear guard, cutting down a voluptuous mountain bike model, just before the bridge is a cheap but effective and done properly, presentable “for pennies” solution. One I’ve toyed with a few times. Old SKS are in some respects idea candidates- broad, really solid chrome plastics and stays, although unless you could pick some up very cheaply, I'd be inclined to repurpose a scrap pair for this kind of duty. 

As September progresses, I’ve been exploring more of the unmade roads and bridle paths, exploiting Ursula's true off-road pedigree into the bargain. Since her restoration last August, with the notable exception of winter spikes during the season's worst, I've kept her as a drop bar mountain bike shod with sturdy cross-country rubber. Despite some limitations, I'm quite fond of the Continental Cross Kings Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing, but more so the CST Patrol, which represent excellent bang for very modest buck.

In common with the Cross Kings, there are some limitations, especially in bogy mud but for hardpack and less challenging stuff, they're surprisingly swift and grippy.  2.25 sections are still practical propositions for older, cross country mountain bike framesets, while offering a decent amount of compliance and even at 50-55psi, ride quality isn't unduly harsh. There's still a decent amount of choice when it comes to 26-inch but few new models are coming through in this size. 

 

Warmth & Waxes

 250 miles in, and I’m warming to the Momum Mic Wax. Several things have stood out. Waxes tend to be less temperature stable than other lubricants but ours is still running very clean. I’m told its best described as a Tribolubricant.  

It contains natural waxes that come from the palm Copernicia and offers high resistance to wear and has a melting point at 85 degrees c. The latter is much higher than traditional waxes, which tend to assume a mushy state and would account for the Momum’s cleanliness thus far.  

Presently we’re experiencing temperatures around 70 degrees, so perhaps not surprising but certainly reassuring.  The blend penetrates deep within the chain’s inner sanctum, so the transmission feels refined, while shifting remains snappy and crisp. No thunderstorms to date, but plenty of wet roads, which are failing to make tangible impression on its integrity.  

Will be interesting to see how many miles I get from a single application...I’m also wondering how well it serves on cleat mechanisms and other metal to metal interfaces.  No sooner had this thought entered my head, Madison Cycles (Shimano’s UK importer) sent me two sets of pedals. Shimano PDM8100 (XT by another name) which almost require no introduction and these PD ED500, which are a slightly more intriguing design.  

Featuring generously proportioned aluminium alloy bodies, these are dual-sided for easy entry, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn, have cartridge bearings. Cro-moly axles aren’t the lightest options but should be ultra-dependable.  Shimano seems reticent to pigeon-hole them but suggest they’re perfect for road touring. Given those strong axles and sealed bearings, I’d wager they’re a good bet for mixed-terrain touring, gravel and indeed commuting, too.  Time and miles will tell...

A bit like these SH-MT701GX shoes, which are built for “all weather mountain touring, bike packing or commuting”. They feature synthetic leather uppers, a Gore Tex  breathable, waterproof liner for dry feet, a Boa L6 dial, for quick and precise adjustment, a toe cap for additional protection and a chunky sole for comfort on and off the bike. 

About soles and stiffness, these are 4 on Shimano’s off-road scale, which goes all the way to 11. Road, to 12 but while I’m fond of mixing things up, I’ve never gone the Look ARC, or KEO route when venturing beyond asphalt. Did run these on Ursula during periods of extended road riding. Primarily since I was curious, and the confused double takes from some road riders always amused me.  

Gravel is arguably an offshoot and “logical evolution” of cyclo cross and mountain biking and to some extent a genre with obvious appeal to yours truly- drop bars, knobbly tyres, wide ratio gearing and the ability to escape the seemingly ever maddening crowd.  

I’m less of a pioneer than I’d like to think, judging by the wealth of photos depicting mountain bikes ridden in competitive contexts, with drop bars. John Tomac was famous for it, during the late 80’s Ross Schafer, too.  However, go further back in the days of quill stems and 25.4 diameters, it wasn’t just Specialized and Muddy Fox who were colluding in this sorcery.  

The Vittoria Evolution Road Bike Tyres are also proving very competent on wet, greasy roads. Particularly welcome since it had been a few weeks since any tangible rain. This means diesel, oil and other slippery contaminant gets flushed from verges and into the road’s surface.  

The next obvious move was to take a detour and see how they’d behave along some varied bridle path. Spoiler alert, if you want to hoss along at warp speed, or tour primarily unmade roads, I’d suggest spending a good bit more and looking toward Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Double Defense TEST & REVIEW: SCHWALBE MARATHON MONDIAL TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com)   

That said, the Evolution are still quite agile and relatively composed in these contexts to around 17mph. Spirited enough to give a sense of freedom, or to engage young protégé's cruising behind in their trailers or contributing on tagalongs. Still miss Vittoria’s Randonneur Trail though... 

Dawns have become sufficiently balmy that I’ve switched from my default 3/4lengths to these Funkier Bib shorts, which have a decent pad and some nice features.  

I initially found the Lycra a little slippery atop traditional leather saddles, such as the Spa Cycles Aire Titanium and Cycles Berthoud Solour CYCLES BERTHOUD SOULOR LEATHER SADDLE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). However, no annoying, power-robbing surf. Moot point with the Teenage Dream’s long-serving and seemingly discontinued Selle SMP Strike Plus.