Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Hubs & Helping Hands

 

Madison sent me this Shimano Nexus DH UR 700 3D Dynohub, which at 544g (including skewer) is 68g lighter than the venerable Alfine but 145g heavier than the Shutter Precision SD8 SHUTTER PRECISION SD8 HUB DYNAMO | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and noticeably weightier than the SL9. Experience suggests, used year-round I will return between 20,000 and 25,000miles (about 40233.6 km) from the Shutter Precision hubs before their bearings get the grumbles and they need returning to the factory.  

They certainly won’t owe anything by this point and chances are, running a rim brake, rim sidewalls may also be due their pensions. However, disc brakes extend the life of rim sidewalls considerably and the need to tear down a wheel to service the hub is more frustrating.  

Fond of the SP units, I’m wondering if the contact, rather than labyrinth seals used in Shimano units are the culprits. I left it and a 700c Ryde Sputnik rim with Mick Madgett. The Sputnik is a tough touring rim, which may be overkill for my needs in many regards, I prefer a little overbuild, especially on bikes in daily, winter or gravel service.   

This Shimano Nexus follows the contemporary 6v3watt spec. An aluminium coil structure saves weight. Cup and cone bearing races are treated with Borozon for mirror finished bearing races. A notable improvement over the loveable Alfine and Shutter Precision are the labyrinth seals and internal grease seals.  

These better lock out the elements and the grease in. The nicely machined aluminium hub shell continues this narrative and has a double anodised finish that, if the UN71 is any gauge, should keep its looks and the shell free of corrosion for many years. Provided of course, you periodically give it a good clean, especially during winter where road salt can even chomp through anodising. I’ve whipped a WTB Nano aboard and will get some miles in aboard Denise and will probably switch to my fixed gear winter trainer, as the days become darker and wetter.    

I’m still being sent some nice summer kit. Most notably, this Madison Roam Men’s Short Sleeve Jersey. My experience of the Roam range is generally very positive. It’s what I’d call a crossover range, making easy transition between road, touring and gravel cum trail duties. Their cargo bib shortsMadison Roam Men's Cargo Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), gloves Madison Roam Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and 2.5layer jacketMadison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  . 

The jersey follows this narrative. Available in moss green, or lake blue, there are three large open top rear pockets, a zippered end terrace for cash, keys and other small valuables coupled with a mesh “dump” pocket, which I’m told is for bunging rogue bits n’ bobs mid ride. Made from 85%polyester 15% polyamide it also features a mesh channel between the shoulder blades to encourage rapid moisture transfer. A decent size zipper tag continues the easy climate control narrative, silicone zippers ensure it doesn’t gather and ride up-especially hunkered down on the drops with bigger loads en tow.  

Oxford has also sent me their Mint Assembly Grease. It’s actually a multi-purpose formula for slow speed applications, headset, hub and other bearings being obvious candidates. However, it's also safe to apply on threads and stanchions. I wasn’t surprised to learn it's carbon safe, although obviously, employ gripper pastes, never grease carbon components.  

There is also a lithium component for durability. I’m not the biggest fan of old-fashioned lithium greases, since they’re not kind to modern composites and rubberised components- seals and suspension being prime examples. Now, the Minty Assembly Grease isn’t a lithium prep but does have a lithium part for durability. With autumn and winter around the corner, it will be interesting to see how well it fares against washout.  

Staying with the washing theme, Denise was filthy after a week or so spent traversing wet, mucky lanes. This impacted grime coincided with the arrival of this Green Oil Massive Brush. It is HUGE and features a wooden handle and biodegradable bristle plot.  Time for a sudsy bucket deep clean...  

Unlike their Standard Bike Brush (which is best for wheels, spokes, cranks and pedals) the bristles are designed for tackling the entire bike. Formative impressions suggest the bristles are soft enough for painted, plated and lacquered surfaces. I’m certainly warming to it, but as usual intensive workshop use will reveal more. I was pleasantly surprised to find Denise’s KMC chain still hovering below the .5 mark. I may well get another month before it collects its pension.     

Right, I’ll close here with my review of the Magicshine EVO1700 Underneath Mounted Bike Light Magicshine Evo 1700 Underneath Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Frustration & Dynamism

I was born, one day I will die...No, not that track by Soft Cell/Marc Almond (although, being a middle-aged man, it’s arguably fitting) I am referring to our old friend, supply problems. I’ve also been struggling to remove the Shutter Precision SL9’s centre lock rotor.

  

A sudden flash of inspiration led me to buying a small portable vice and some rubber “engineer’s” strips allowing me to clamp the hub in situ, without risking any damage.  

I’m incredibly fond of the Shutter Precision hubs but the need to strip the hub and send it away every few years isn’t something I’ve needed to do with Shimano units- even the Nexus unit (now 22 years old) is still turning away nicely.  

The Ultegra is in similarly rude health and has done a much bigger mileage than the once hardworking Nexus. This had led me to me pondering the acquisition of another Alfine, or ideally, something that is more readily serviced in the field. 

 

Kasai offer some “field repairable” models, which as their name suggests are more readily serviced and repaired-without going through the palaver of stripping the wheel, packaging up the hub and building everything again.  

This might be perfectly valid on a bike in hard service running rim brakes. Since the rim’s sidewalls can wear through, demanding a rebuild by default. Ideally, I’ll get hold of a Kasai, or failing that, another Alfine (since the latter is reliable and crucially, partially user serviceable) and hold onto the SL9 as a spare. Watch this space...    

Back to the SL9...I'd been toying with the idea of a portable vise, for some time. Bench mounted ones had also fired my imagination, but portable models are arguably a better fit for me.  

Enter this auction site special, which arrived over the holiday weekend. Given the budget price, I was surprised by how relatively sturdy it felt. I popped some of the dead butyl from the previous week into the jaws and gently locked the Shutter Precision Hub body in situ.  

A quick blast of penetrant spray to get things underway before I introduced my long-serving Cyclo cassette remover tool. With a brief primal grunt, and modest effort, the lockring released, revealing a light but serviceable coating of grease clinging to the threads.  

If only I’d whipped the rotor off before stripping the wheel... However, main thing the hub’s now with the UK importers and will be winging its way to Taiwan for overhaul. Another little job off my doing list. Next came my front dental crown, which fell into the sink with an audible “plink” while I was busy with the electric toothbrush.  

Conversation with my dentists suggests I couldn’t get an appointment for a month, but my best bet would be to ring them on the mornings when I’m free to see if they could slot me in that day. Main thing is the remnants of tooth are still firmly within the gum, which is something. Receptionists suggested the crown could simply be re-bonded but much as I suspected, the tooth, not the crown itself failed. I've discussed cosmetic and structural options with my dentist and paid for treatment to shore up a booking, while this was still available.  

As autumn slowly advances, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Green Oil Dry Chain Wax Green Oil Dry Chain Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which I’m quite fond of and will run, until the roads get consistently wetter. I’ll stick with something dry for Ursula and for the time-being, the Green Oil Wet GREEN OIL WET CHAIN LUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) on the fixed. 

  

I am also toying with a saddle swap- The Spa Cycles Aire ported over to Ursula and the Selle San Marco Concor Supercorsa over to the fixed. Both are a tan brown so complement their existing colour schemes and the former is also right royally moulded to my butt after many thousands of miles. The Concor Supercorsa is a late 70s classic, with lines from that era.  

Not to everyone’s tastes but at 265x140mm, fits my proportions very nicely. The main prompt for this switch? Well, I’ve concluded, despite Ursula’s more upright positioning that I am still served by narrower saddles-140-143mm seems optimal (indeed, regardless of machine). The Aire is,148mm wide but if it's comfy on the fixed, I’m confident this narrative will continue.