While sweeping through the backroads, Ursula and I spotted this stricken Skoda. I’ve seen two other vehicles- a BMW Mini and a Toyota Rav4 meet the same fate over the past three years. Whether this was a blend of too much speed, poor tyre condition, mud on the road, and/or a deer leaping out is impossible to tell. However, having checked for anyone trapped and unconscious, I hopped back aboard Ursula and continued riding.
The sugar beet crops are being harvested, so tractors and other large agricultural vehicles have been coating the tarmac with greasy, muddy stuff. Fabulous for assessing the Schwalbe Smart Sam’s handling prowess in muddy contexts. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they’ve behaved in these contexts and equally impressed by their mud-shedding ability once back on metaled roads.
I’m someone who replaces consumables as a matter of course but there are some basic pre-seasonal checks that we should all perform. Especially on a working/winter bike. In my book tyres, wheels, chains, braking-cables/hoses, and pads, and contact points.
Start by giving the bike a good wash and hard paste waxing-this makes potential issues easier to spot and nicer to tackle-especially if you're farming a job, say a brake bleed to your friendly mechanic.
Now inspect the tyre casings for wear, bulges and similarly structural stuff. Small nicks and cuts in the tread can be filled with super glue but pension off, if they’ve clearly done a high mileage, or more serious wear’s evident.
A sudden rush of punctures is another sign an otherwise rugged tyre is coming to the end of its reliable life. I’ve experienced this with some iconic models, including the legendary Schwalbe Marathon Plus.
Will be interesting to see if this fate strikes the Maxxis Refuse MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as the darker months and less forgiving conditions unfold. I may well switch the fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear for the CST Xpedium Level 6 700x35C Single Compound 60tpi Wire Bead Tyres CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Single compound tyres tend to give a more direct ride but last longer, which is another consideration during the winter months.
In terms of wheels, check rims for wear, dings or similar imperfections and replace before they wear through. Give the wheels a spin and check for any side to side, or up n’ down play. Are all the spokes uniformly tensioned and all present Check the hubs for any grittiness, grumbling or side-to-side play.
Cup and cone types should be stripped, bearings replaced and re-packed with a stoical grease at least yearly, more regularly on bikes that serve in harsh contexts. Same goes for headsets, especially on bikes shunning mudguards. Metal contact points, such as seat posts and stems should also be re-greased to prevent seizure-related issues. While you’re there, it's worth checking bars and posts for any signs of hairline fracture- especially around the stem face bolts. Check grips, or handlebar tape condition and replace as needed.
I’ve tended to do this come autumn to coincide with cable replacements, I also find fresh bar tape one of those small but significant motivators, encouraging me to get out and ride. Presently the Souma Leather Handlebar tape is faring very well on Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and seems tolerant of being re-wound following cable replacements, so stays.
Saddles, especially the traditional leather type appreciate periodic licks of leather proofing to keep them supple and generally protected from the elements. Leather-covered models should be checked for signs of wear-a bit of electrical tape around the rear will protect against damage when leaning the bike against walls etc. Check the rails too, dents or similar damage signals replacement-failure is often unexpected and potentially very painful.
Cables are things I replace as and when but those with more prescriptive service intervals should consider replacement every season. Sealed systems can be stubborn to fit and the outers are a little hostile to painted or lacquered hosts, so a strip of helicopter tape where the two meet is a good bet.
However, they tend to be fit and forget. I prefer systems with compression-less housing since these have minimal friction, which really comes into its own with cable-operated disc setups. Pads also need a careful eye. In terms of discs, I’ll replace them when pads are down to 1.6mm and during winter, opt for either semi-metallic or fully sintered models for added bite.
I’ve been particularly impressed by Disco Brakes Semi-Metallic pads Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Calliper and Cantilever pads usually have a wear indicator, so keep an eye on those and replace as needed. Upgrading the pads can bring budget stoppers up a couple of notches too. Otherwise, inspect for grit and other stuff regularly to prevent it from consuming pads and rims.
Chains. Yep, these can wear at an alarming rate, especially during winter when you’ve got wet, gritty roads and wet lubes involved. Invest in a chain checker (Basic but serviceable models are only a few quid). Rule of thumb, replace 11-speed derailleur chains when they hit .5 on the tool, 7-10 speed around .75 and single speed 3/32 models at 1.0. Chains are comparatively inexpensive compared with other drivetrain components, so regular replacement will save a lot of money, longer term.
