Darker Side

Daylight is becoming increasingly short and brings a mix of pros and cons. Great for testing lighting, but also other products- from chain lubes to socks, shoes, tyres and indeed clothing. The farmers are doing their best to fill in the crumbling infrastructure with mud, dung, and similar mucky, slimy infusions, so I’m defaulting to Ursula, since this also means I can roam, exploring the many bridleways and green lanes dotted around.  

Escape has always been a central narrative of my riding- free the body, free the mind. I think quite deeply, which is a double-edged sword and the inner dialogue during some rides-where I’m putting things into perspective, or mentally drafting a script would chill some. Thirty years on, there are a few things that still haunt me. We cannot change our pasts, only our relationships to them.  Either way, I’m usually returning with a big inner grin and renewed sense of purpose, so not cause for concern.  

1,000miles (about 1609.34 km) later and according to the Birzman chain checker the KMC is due for retirement-I'd bargained on November, so I’ve parked the 106 link, pre-cut unit in an obvious place. Hopefully see me through to March, mileage and conditions allowing, obviously. I’ve decided the Muc-Off –50 degrees chain lube will remain my default.  

Switching to the 145mm wide BBB Echelon saddle was an inspired choice, serving me well on and off road. I'm always banging on about simple and rugged being a recipe for reliability during the darker months and sometimes this goes for things like lights too. Topeak Redlite Aero 30Cd USB Rechargeable Rear light has been around for a few seasons but is a prime example of this principle. It’s bright but only has two modes-constant and flashing. No need for memory functions-I'd go for constant through built-up areas and on group rides, flashing in the sticks. Simple.  

This supposedly translates into 10.5 and 40 hours from a full charge (There’s also an AAA-fuelled cousin, should you prefer to ditch the ubiquitous micro-USB cable). The three super-bright LEDS also have a slightly old-school feel but coupled with the lenses’ surface area translates into a surprisingly bright arc of light. 

 

Not sure about the aero credentials but it will accommodate round or aero posts, pencil-thin seat stays, helmet mounting too. IPX4 might be lower on the winter cheating scale but shouldn’t be an issue with full-length mudguards (fenders) and/or periodic shots of Joker 440 Motorex Joker 440 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or WD40 to the charge port.  

For now, its sitting low on Ursula’s seat stays, so we’ll see how it fares in the coming weeks and months.  Fancy something more exotic, here's Steve’s review of this Exposure Boost-R ReAkt & Peloton Rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/exposure-boost-r-reakt-peleton-rear-li 

 

Topeak's Redlite Mega is still serving me well a decade down the line. Mine runs off 2 AAA cells. Great for touring, since they’re easily found, pretty much anywhere, assuming you’ve forgotten to pack spares. There’s also one with a rechargeable lithium-ion cell. Both boast 72 cd output, employs 5 LEDs- a 1 high flux red LED and a further four-two red, two yellow.  

Five modes include a nice hybrid (steady/flashing) although there’s no memory function. In common with the Redlite Aero, it has impressive run times- 44 and 89 hours (50 and 100 cited). Of the two, the Mega would be my choice for recumbents, tandems and trailers. 

    

Temperatures until now, have been uncharacteristically warm for this time of year. Even at 5am, I’m typically dressed in ¾ lengths (sometimes bib shorts Madison Roam Men's Cargo Bib Shorts | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)) short sleeve jersey, base layer and thinner full finger gloves, such as these Madison Roam News about Seven Day Cyclist  

Saddleback, Castelli’s UK distributor has just sent me the Italian marque’s Perfetto ROS Glove, which is a thin pile design using Gore Tex Infinium Wind Stopper fabric. Detailing is to a high standard, but no less than I’d expect at this end of the market. They’re a very snug fit for precise control and nimble digits.  

Fleece lining for comfort, there are silicone grippers for extra purchase, touch screen compatible fingertips, and their Castelli Damping System (CDS) designed to protect the median nerve.  Windproofing seems excellent but miles and more wintry conditions will reveal just how water-resistant they are. I'll close with my review of the Ravemen PR2000 Wireless Switch Control Headlight Ravemen PR2000 Wireless Headlight | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Ahead of the Curve

While sweeping through the backroads, Ursula and I spotted this stricken Skoda. I’ve seen two other vehicles- a BMW Mini and a Toyota Rav4 meet the same fate over the past three years. Whether this was a blend of too much speed, poor tyre condition, mud on the road, and/or a deer leaping out is impossible to tell. However, having checked for anyone trapped and unconscious, I hopped back aboard Ursula and continued riding.  

The sugar beet crops are being harvested, so tractors and other large agricultural vehicles have been coating the tarmac with greasy, muddy stuff. Fabulous for assessing the Schwalbe Smart Sam’s handling prowess in muddy contexts. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they’ve behaved in these contexts and equally impressed by their mud-shedding ability once back on metaled roads.  

I’m someone who replaces consumables as a matter of course but there are some basic pre-seasonal checks that we should all perform. Especially on a working/winter bike. In my book tyres, wheels, chains, braking-cables/hoses, and pads, and contact points.  

Start by giving the bike a good wash and hard paste waxing-this makes potential issues easier to spot and nicer to tackle-especially if you're farming a job, say a brake bleed to your friendly mechanic.  

Now inspect the tyre casings for wear, bulges and similarly structural stuff. Small nicks and cuts in the tread can be filled with super glue but pension off, if they’ve clearly done a high mileage, or more serious wear’s evident.  

A sudden rush of punctures is another sign an otherwise rugged tyre is coming to the end of its reliable life. I’ve experienced this with some iconic models, including the legendary Schwalbe Marathon Plus.  

Will be interesting to see if this fate strikes the Maxxis Refuse MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as the darker months and less forgiving conditions unfold. I may well switch the fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear for the CST Xpedium Level 6 700x35C Single Compound 60tpi Wire Bead Tyres CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Single compound tyres tend to give a more direct ride but last longer, which is another consideration during the winter months.   

In terms of wheels, check rims for wear, dings or similar imperfections and replace before they wear through. Give the wheels a spin and check for any side to side, or up n’ down play. Are all the spokes uniformly tensioned and all present Check the hubs for any grittiness, grumbling or side-to-side play.   

Cup and cone types should be stripped, bearings replaced and re-packed with a stoical grease at least yearly, more regularly on bikes that serve in harsh contexts. Same goes for headsets, especially on bikes shunning mudguards. Metal contact points, such as seat posts and stems should also be re-greased to prevent seizure-related issues. While you’re there, it's worth checking bars and posts for any signs of hairline fracture- especially around the stem face bolts. Check grips, or handlebar tape condition and replace as needed.  

I’ve tended to do this come autumn to coincide with cable replacements, I also find fresh bar tape one of those small but significant motivators, encouraging me to get out and ride. Presently the Souma Leather Handlebar tape is faring very well on Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and seems tolerant of being re-wound following cable replacements, so stays.   

Saddles, especially the traditional leather type appreciate periodic licks of leather proofing to keep them supple and generally protected from the elements. Leather-covered models should be checked for signs of wear-a bit of electrical tape around the rear will protect against damage when leaning the bike against walls etc. Check the rails too, dents or similar damage signals replacement-failure is often unexpected and potentially very painful.  

Cables are things I replace as and when but those with more prescriptive service intervals should consider replacement every season. Sealed systems can be stubborn to fit and the outers are a little hostile to painted or lacquered hosts, so a strip of helicopter tape where the two meet is a good bet.  

However, they tend to be fit and forget. I prefer systems with compression-less housing since these have minimal friction, which really comes into its own with cable-operated disc setups. Pads also need a careful eye. In terms of discs, I’ll replace them when pads are down to 1.6mm and during winter, opt for either semi-metallic or fully sintered models for added bite.  

I’ve been particularly impressed by Disco Brakes Semi-Metallic pads Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Calliper and Cantilever pads usually have a wear indicator, so keep an eye on those and replace as needed. Upgrading the pads can bring budget stoppers up a couple of notches too. Otherwise, inspect for grit and other stuff regularly to prevent it from consuming pads and rims. 

 

Chains. Yep, these can wear at an alarming rate, especially during winter when you’ve got wet, gritty roads and wet lubes involved. Invest in a chain checker (Basic but serviceable models are only a few quid). Rule of thumb, replace 11-speed derailleur chains when they hit .5 on the tool, 7-10 speed around .75 and single speed 3/32 models at 1.0. Chains are comparatively inexpensive compared with other drivetrain components, so regular replacement will save a lot of money, longer term.