Wet, Wintry and Wonderful?

 

I long ago switched off from tired cliché’s about life being what we make it (primarily since it’s a blanket statement and life is far more nuanced). Afterall, if this simple rhetoric were true, the hardest working people would have the biggest rewards…

This also the season for boiler bother and I found myself needing to tweak our Grant combi to bring heating and hot water back on track. Well, I had to clean the fixed seemingly every other ride, courtesy of wet, greasy and increasingly cold conditions…Much as we’d expect from later November onward.  

This environment also consumes things like brake pads and chains with consummate, dare we say frightening ease, so I decided it was time to stock up on some more pads, chains and the odd tube and batteries before Christmas. They’re bound to reach retirement while the shops are shut.  

Wheels and tyres are also taxed, since wet, freezing conditions contributes to road erosion potholes, sharps and other nasties are more readily worked in as we ride. For this reason, I err towards reliability and overbuild on working, mountain and winter bike wheelsets.  I want to enjoy the ride with nominal mechanical issues and in due course, stay temperate.  I’m very fond of Muffin’s Continental Contact Plus and Vittoria Adventure tech paring and given the risk of icy conditions, the Schwalbe Marathon Winter spikes stay on Denise’s hoops.   

It should be obvious that this is not a substitute for regular cleaning, inspection and maintenance.   

I’ve added a cable tie to the Sidi Algor’s zipper tags, which has made drawing the zipper fully home significantly quicker and easier. I’ve also needed to adjust the rear Zefal G50 Gravel guard slightly-just a question of slackening the two 5mm Allen screws, moving the guard slightly and snugging down-2.5nm (or bottle cage screw territory). Talking of bottle cages, I also decided to switch the bottle cages again and like the red on teal contrast. 

 After 330 miles, (260 on the fixed) the Muc-Off C3 Ceramic All Weather Lube was still doing its thing, albeit a bit filmy. I’ve given side plates a wipe with a rag dipped in solvent and topped up, leaving it curing overnight, rather than the four hours cited.  I was also pleasantly surprised by how little gunge clung to the derailleur jockey wheels. 

For more intense drivetrain cleaning, I’m a big fan of brushes, less so chain baths, which can work very effectively but are fiddly. Besides, chances are, especially during winter, you’ll need to clean the rings and cassette too. Aside from the obvious need to remove congealed lube and potential contaminant, a lot of lubes can react badly with each other, if there are traces left behind. I'm quite impressed by this Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing  

The Castelli Competizione Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing bib tights have become an unexpected default given the changing conditions and fluctuating temperatures. They’re best in cool, dry contexts, although there’s similarly priced competitors offering a DWR (Durable Water Repelling) coating, which can extend comfort on wetter rides. I did add a wash-in product, while washing some Gore Tex and this has extended the time I’ve remained dry, so that’s also an option.

It's also worth saying that not all permanent DWR coatings are particularly effective. I also prefer highly water resistant, breathable garments, those that might allow some moisture through, yet wick quickly. Back in the late 1980s, I used to be happy enough with waist tights, but bibs are definitely the way forward, offering seamless comfort and protection to the vital organs.  

No issues of chill getting in, should a jersey, or base layer gather slightly while you’re hunkered low on the drops, battling those gusty winds. There have come and gone in the last couple of weeks, reaching 60kmh at certain, exposed points.  

I love booties during the winter months, although they can feel a little cumbersome around the ankles and cadence slightly remote, less so with the Shimano MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing slightly more so with the Sidi Algor. This is quickly forgotten in the saddle and while the Algor have some quirks, I appreciate their water resistance, grip and temperate inner climate. The soles are also stiffer than their rating might imply, without compromising the ability to walk gracefully. Staying with winter clothing, Steve has been impressed by Castelli’s Estremo Gloves Castelli Estremo Gloves | cycling-not-racing

 

Ahead of the Curve

While sweeping through the backroads, Ursula and I spotted this stricken Skoda. I’ve seen two other vehicles- a BMW Mini and a Toyota Rav4 meet the same fate over the past three years. Whether this was a blend of too much speed, poor tyre condition, mud on the road, and/or a deer leaping out is impossible to tell. However, having checked for anyone trapped and unconscious, I hopped back aboard Ursula and continued riding.  

The sugar beet crops are being harvested, so tractors and other large agricultural vehicles have been coating the tarmac with greasy, muddy stuff. Fabulous for assessing the Schwalbe Smart Sam’s handling prowess in muddy contexts. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they’ve behaved in these contexts and equally impressed by their mud-shedding ability once back on metaled roads.  

I’m someone who replaces consumables as a matter of course but there are some basic pre-seasonal checks that we should all perform. Especially on a working/winter bike. In my book tyres, wheels, chains, braking-cables/hoses, and pads, and contact points.  

Start by giving the bike a good wash and hard paste waxing-this makes potential issues easier to spot and nicer to tackle-especially if you're farming a job, say a brake bleed to your friendly mechanic.  

Now inspect the tyre casings for wear, bulges and similarly structural stuff. Small nicks and cuts in the tread can be filled with super glue but pension off, if they’ve clearly done a high mileage, or more serious wear’s evident.  

A sudden rush of punctures is another sign an otherwise rugged tyre is coming to the end of its reliable life. I’ve experienced this with some iconic models, including the legendary Schwalbe Marathon Plus.  

Will be interesting to see if this fate strikes the Maxxis Refuse MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as the darker months and less forgiving conditions unfold. I may well switch the fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear for the CST Xpedium Level 6 700x35C Single Compound 60tpi Wire Bead Tyres CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Single compound tyres tend to give a more direct ride but last longer, which is another consideration during the winter months.   

In terms of wheels, check rims for wear, dings or similar imperfections and replace before they wear through. Give the wheels a spin and check for any side to side, or up n’ down play. Are all the spokes uniformly tensioned and all present Check the hubs for any grittiness, grumbling or side-to-side play.   

Cup and cone types should be stripped, bearings replaced and re-packed with a stoical grease at least yearly, more regularly on bikes that serve in harsh contexts. Same goes for headsets, especially on bikes shunning mudguards. Metal contact points, such as seat posts and stems should also be re-greased to prevent seizure-related issues. While you’re there, it's worth checking bars and posts for any signs of hairline fracture- especially around the stem face bolts. Check grips, or handlebar tape condition and replace as needed.  

I’ve tended to do this come autumn to coincide with cable replacements, I also find fresh bar tape one of those small but significant motivators, encouraging me to get out and ride. Presently the Souma Leather Handlebar tape is faring very well on Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and seems tolerant of being re-wound following cable replacements, so stays.   

Saddles, especially the traditional leather type appreciate periodic licks of leather proofing to keep them supple and generally protected from the elements. Leather-covered models should be checked for signs of wear-a bit of electrical tape around the rear will protect against damage when leaning the bike against walls etc. Check the rails too, dents or similar damage signals replacement-failure is often unexpected and potentially very painful.  

Cables are things I replace as and when but those with more prescriptive service intervals should consider replacement every season. Sealed systems can be stubborn to fit and the outers are a little hostile to painted or lacquered hosts, so a strip of helicopter tape where the two meet is a good bet.  

However, they tend to be fit and forget. I prefer systems with compression-less housing since these have minimal friction, which really comes into its own with cable-operated disc setups. Pads also need a careful eye. In terms of discs, I’ll replace them when pads are down to 1.6mm and during winter, opt for either semi-metallic or fully sintered models for added bite.  

I’ve been particularly impressed by Disco Brakes Semi-Metallic pads Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Calliper and Cantilever pads usually have a wear indicator, so keep an eye on those and replace as needed. Upgrading the pads can bring budget stoppers up a couple of notches too. Otherwise, inspect for grit and other stuff regularly to prevent it from consuming pads and rims. 

 

Chains. Yep, these can wear at an alarming rate, especially during winter when you’ve got wet, gritty roads and wet lubes involved. Invest in a chain checker (Basic but serviceable models are only a few quid). Rule of thumb, replace 11-speed derailleur chains when they hit .5 on the tool, 7-10 speed around .75 and single speed 3/32 models at 1.0. Chains are comparatively inexpensive compared with other drivetrain components, so regular replacement will save a lot of money, longer term.

Bosses, BIg Tyres & Brainstorming

 

The eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed the low-rider mounts on my fixed’s replacement fork blades. I have no use for a low-rider, least of all on carbon blades, so will ponder what (if anything) other purposes they might serve. Feel free to comment.  

For the time being, while I await a few things and battle Sabre Tooth Man-Flu, I’m sticking with the Kinesis DC7 and see no sense in creating more work for its own sake. I’m still putting the CST Pika and Xpedium pairing through their paces and am generally impressed by their blend of dependability, relatively low rolling resistance and surprisingly compliant ride. Particularly when I’ve introduced a TPU tube, such as this Pirelli PIRELLI CENTURATO REINFORCED SMART TUBE (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

Admittedly, most of us would stick to bog standard butyl, especially with the Xpedium but it’s worth noting that a TPU tube brought a livelier persona-most obviously when accelerating and climbing.  These can be patched but it's not something you’d want to chance by the roadside, so bring a couple of butyl spares along, just in case.  

Staying with tyres for now, having tracked the weather forecast for an extended period, I am satisfied now thundersnow, or similarly extreme weather is coming for the foreseeable. Therefore, I’ve switched Ursula to the Maxxis Overdrive Excel, which has a tread pattern reminiscent, but different to the CST Xpedium.  

They're a similar weight too- the 26x2.0 tip my scales at 720g apiece, while the 700x35c CST Xpedium are 715g. However, Overdrive Excel boasts a dual compound for reliability and grip, the Xpedium a single, supposedly for longevity.

Both seem rugged and dependable and will entertain “gravel” type excursions quite convincingly. The last thing I want along a pitch-black road where it’s raining dogs and blowing a gale is a puncture, or similar mechanical.   

Riders something slightly quicker for their winter road bike, might be interested in these Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR Reflective tyre Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR Reflective Ty | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Steve’s been suitably impressed but it’s worth noting they’re a good deal dearer than the CST. 

Even seemingly belt n’ braces models such as Schwalbe’s mighty Marathon GT 365TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com) can succumb to a nasty sharp. Ursula’s rear had a flint cut through to the puncture-repelling India rubber- their last line of defence. Thankfully, this didn’t result in a flat and I was able to plug the hole with a decent quality superglue, for workable, lasting repair.   

Back to the Maxxis... 

Since I had the rear wheel out, it seemed the ideal opportunity to get the drivetrain surgically clean. I delivered some Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly GREEN OIL CLEAN CHAIN DEGREASER JELLY (sevendaycyclist.com) to the KMC chain, ring and jockey wheels, then blasted the cassette with the Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since this was almost spent. After agitating this lot with a stiff brush, I chased the residual, filmy layer away with a quick drop of Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) and rinsed with fresh, tepid water. 

Drivetrain dried and everything reinstated, I treated the rear triangle to some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax to seal the shine and keep the elements out.  Muc Off All Weather Chain Lube arrived over Christmas, so was the obvious candidate. This is marketed as a race ready synthetic lubricant, designed to resist water and fling. The four-hour curing time is less convenient than some, but isn’t particularly outlandish, either. I left ours overnight, since circumstances allowed.  

Curiously, for an all-weather blend supposedly capable of standing up “to even the toughest rides”, it's recommended you clean and reapply after riding in wet conditions. Only time and real-world mileage will give proper insight. Winter is sneaky and while components may remain in rude health, given proper care, fasteners can turn furry at the first hint of a puddle. Ursula’s six bolt disc rotor mount and calliper mount hardware was showing signs of orange taint. A drop of Green Oil Wet lube is great for preventing the taint’s progression and unlike a maintenance spray, won’t contaminate rotor, or pads. Finally, for this post, here's my review of the Shimano RX6 Gravel Shoes. Definitely one of my favourite shoes of all time Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)