Two Deore & Fresh Cable

 

Three rides in and I concluded a slight kink in the rear derailleur housing was causing mischief-it wasn't obvious, until I was cruising on the hoods and happened to take this shot.  I obviously replaced the outer and inner cables upon returning home.  Little surprise that shifting became that bit snappier and free of phantom shifts and similarly unwelcome distractions.

Even if bars look comparable, width and shape can influence things, so if changing contact points, or making wider changes, it's worth changing the cables, ideally during, rather than afterward.  Talking of bars, here’s Steve’s review of the Lomo 3 Litre Handlebar Bike Packing Dry Bag Lomo 3L Handlebar Bikepacking Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing

All part of bedding in, dare I say bonding (deeper) with the build. Not one, but two Deore mechs arrived, which is welcome. The SR Suntour fitted to Ursula is box fresh and the STX adorning Denise’s downtube still has plenty of strength in its spring. Nonetheless, it’s thirty years old and these things tend to expire at the least convenient moment. Both Deore hail from the same era but have little signs of use and plenty of power within their springs. 

I'm sticking with the Shimano CX50 stopper up front since there's plenty of bite and pads are readily available. Temptation was to pop another Kore on, but this is change for change's sake.

Mick Madgett has worked his wheel building sorcery and built the older, non-disc Ultegra dynohub into the Ryde Sputnik rim. Not an urgent job but glad its sorted. I've switched the existing disc braked Nexus Shimano Nexus DH-UR700-3D Dynamo Hub | cycling-not-racing over to Muffin and run the low drag Shutter Precision SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD as a second/spare, as need arises. Otherwise, I'm really pleased with the bikes in their present guises.

Denise's 36/26 is actually quite close to the "cut down" trend that struck in the early 1990s, where riders would often forgo the big ring (typically a 48 tooth) in favour of the 38 and 28 since this saved a few grams and was arguably more practical off road. Though there's a lot to be said for triples, especially on a tourer, I've found keeping them on song four seasons round to be something of a chore.

I also ran a Shimano 600 with a Stronglight 48/38/28 setup, and this could also prove temperamental. I should point out this was inherited with the bike, not of my doing and was ultimately replaced with a Suntour XCD six months after the frameset's powder coat makeover in March 1990.  I was a big Suntour fan and remain very fond of the late 80s and early 90s groupsets.      

Elsewhere, I fitted the Blackburn Atom SL computer to Muffin and though accessing the battery compartment is fiddly, thanks to the tiny screws, the rest of the unit, including sensor feel solid in the Blackburn tradition. The display is very clear and the switches similarly solid. Not quite as bombproof flavour of old school, late 80's Cat Eye, but not far behind, so we'll see. 

 

Staying with Cat Eye a minute, I was interested to note they still offer wired versions, including one called the Enduro, which is apparently designed for off road duties. I'd go for a wired model since by definition, they are the most accurate, reliable option, but there's the risk of me embarking on a headset strip/similar, forgetting about the wiring and ultimately knackering it. I've got form for this, having done it before, to a Strada back in 1994.  I spend considerable time connected to the internet in one form or other, to the point where I simply want to decompress and disconnect on my rides- escape, for want of a more involved explanation.  

 

The Lomo Mountain Bike Gloves are still seeing plenty of action and continue to impress in their pleasant, understated way. Also on the test bench is the Lazer Strada Kineticore helmet, a design that blurs genres.

It employs their ScrollSys system for a precise, 360 degree fit, TPU eyewear docking system for parking sunglasses, a rear light mount and Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection, offering protection in a similar manner as MIPS. Where the two systems differ is Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection is built into the helmet from the beginning, whereas MIPS is added afterward. This ensures it covers the entirety of the helmet and theoretically, improves ventilation, while also using less material.

Hopefully none of us will ever need to call on this, or rely on our lids, but twisting forces can prove particularly harmful in a crash.  

Build quality and attention to detail impresses me at this price point. Simple things like the polycarbonate shell extending around the rim and an intuitive "conveyor belt" type adjuster tightening or relaxing the cradle tension being prime examples.

On the subject of sizing, I went for a small, finding the medium can be a little larger than others. I'm at the upper end of the 51-56cm circumference but still achieved a secure, comfortable fit with scope for caps, buffs and similar headwear. Our sample also coordinates nicely with these Shimano RX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing and cap 

Bags & Bright Sides

 

The arrival of this Craft Cadence Handlebar Bag brought a bit contemplation-Ursula, or fixed gear winter/trainer... The good news is this 3.5 litre model would sit nicely between the Soma Condor 2SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com) bars, with a healthy amount of clearance between bag and mudguard. (Fenders for US/Canadian readers). However, it would require a more comprehensive re-jigging of the cockpit. Hence, I plumped for the fixed’s Genetic D Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I still needed to slide the Genetic Neuron Accessory BarGENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) along, and switch the ORP Smart hornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) and action camera mount/housing. Another blessing in disguise by my reckoning, neater still. Bag in situ, I’ve decided to remove the Apidura Racing Bolt-On Top Tube Pack for a cleaner, less cluttered aesthetic.  

Talking of which, I prefer my handlebar bags to be less prescriptive, dare I say, less orderly. The big open plan compartment has a mesh pocket to capture valuables such as phones, wallets etc in a central, easily accessible place. Otherwise, there’s plenty of scope for bunging in spare tubes, micro jackets/gilets, gloves, arm/leg warmers, caps, tools, food, and compact camera.  

The straps are more like a belt buckle, and rather interesting, in the most positive sense. Less prescriptive than those featuring the otherwise very likeable and reliable Klick Fix type and offering greater stability than Velcro. The stem strap IS Velcro and stable, although, as with bike packing luggage, I would place some “helicopter tape” where it makes contact with paintwork, to avoid “tan lines” and other, easily avoidable calling cards.  

Made from micro welded Tarpaulin, the main bag meets IPX5, which isn’t waterproof in the submersible sense but coupled with the clam type closure is very reassuring. (I’ve had no issues to date, in some unexpected and intense showers.) That being said (and it’s not a reflection of the Craft Cadence) I would be inclined to line with a dry sack, if carrying cameras, or similarly sensitive electrical goodies.  

All good, in the main. Save that is, for a fatigued seat collar, resulting in a very pedestrian sinking of the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST G4. These small components eventually fail and worst-case scenario, a new collar and bolt are easy and relatively cheap to replace. I bought a couple of Selcoff units, complete for £1.99 apiece. Obviously, I had a good route around the small spares' trays first for a suitable alternative. Nothing doing and splaying smaller clamps is asking for trouble.  

Components are designed to be a precise fit and work to very tight tolerances. Hung safely back in the garage, I found myself fettling Ursula again. It started innocently enough, dialing some stiffness into the Kinekt 2.1 seatpost KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Then (almost predictably) I thought I’d check the shifting...For some reason, it was out of step. Not wildly so but merited investigation.  

After 15 minutes, I had a eureka moment, whipped off the Sun Race SP570 Rear Derailleur Hanger Extender SUNRACE REAR DERAILLEUR EXTENDER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and threaded the NRX derailleur straight into the frame’s hanger (adding a quick lick of Peaty’s Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  while I was there. Minor cable tensioning later and it moved sequentially, without hesitation across the block. I repeated this six times before satisfied all was well and that the derailleur wasn’t going too far in either direction.  

I completed the session by fitting this freshly charged Brightside Side Light to the downtube. Designed here in the UK, it’s a tertiary form of lighting intended to improve peripheral presence, say at roundabouts and junctions.  

Build quality is reassuringly good and waterproofing similarly impressive. It can also be mounted to other tubes, including the head tube (although this may not be practical, say with some bar bags). This, coupled with its topside (helmet-mounted front and rear combo light) counterpart look particularly effective, for boosting the presence of riders towing trailers and tagalongs.   

As Easy as One, Two Zee...Well, not quite ...

Braking up to scratch and headset buttery smooth, the UN55 bottom bracket was showing the early signs of slop. Nothing serious but seeing as I already had a UN300 on standby and time allowed, rude not to replace. All was going to plan until I put a shot of lube on the tool threads and coupled it with the cranks.  

I was rather shocked to discover them flaking away.  Thankfully, popping them from the tapers wasn’t a hardship and no surprise the bottom bracket spun free with comparable ease, thanks to my policy of liberally greasing threads and of course, oceans of frame preserve... Time to investigate my transmission box...  

Enter the Shimano Zee and 36 tooth ring, compatible bottom bracket, Acor tools and some of the Corrosion Block grease, since it was to hand. Now, I’d bought the Zee blind. Other than acknowledging that it was new, unused, and priced to sell, I didn’t think to check the axle length... It’s not the most obvious choice perhaps, given it's intended for freeride and downhill audiences. However, it's solid and in my view, quite pretty.  

Hollow Tech II basically works to the same compression principle as Aheadset. Set the bearing preload hand tight, test for play and good movement, then gently snug the pinch bolts down to 14nms (alternating between them, to ensure equal loading and avoid damage caused by over-stressed components).  

Being as the cranks provide the compression, if I was going to run the system successfully (without the bearings constantly coming loose) I needed to plug this. One-inch Aheadset spacers seemed the obvious solution. Rummaging through my small parts toolbox proved fruitful.  

While there’s a lot to like about the Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket (and their bottom brackets, per se), I wasn’t taken with the plastic sleeve, so found myself upgrading to a titanium Van Nicholas VNT Ceramic Bottom Bracket. This has a titanium, rather than composite sleeve, so engaged very precisely within the frame shell.  

Essentially everything came together beautifully, although I was quick to apply a liberal helping of suitable grease to the threads, shaft and bearings. Always a good policy but there was no way I was going to run the galvanic gauntlet for the sake of a couple of minutes. Having exhausted the Corrosion Block, I went for the Green Oil Eco GreaseTWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com). It might lack the outright stoicism of Park and similar but nonetheless, it’s a solid middleweight performer.  

Being several degrees below zero, it emerged from the spout in a more solid state than some petrochemicals but malleable. Thus far, this present configuration is proving very satisfactory. Chain line is bang on and I’m not pedaling like John Wayne. Just as well since pandemic and Brexit is beginning to bite in terms of acquiring suitable replacements e.g. Deore and at sensible prices.  The UK is a third country now, so importing from Europe would incur punitive import costs. In essence, I will stick with the present configuration and evaluate other options, should limitations with the setup materialise.   

 

While rummaging through my spares boxes like a possessed spirit, I also happened upon the trail version of K-Lite's Bike Packer Ultra. K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Suspicious that the V2 issues may boil down to the lamp, rather than the “box”, I performed the switch... On the one hand, being the same family, I would expect the switch and connectors to play nicely, but that shouldn’t be taken as a given. 

Thankfully, it wasn’t long before the lamp came to life, so I tethered it to the Soma Condor 2 Shallow Drop bars SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com)  and am back to swooping through the empty lanes, which are now largely free of anything slippery, thanks to a sudden hike in temperature. However, there’s a fair bit of standing water, so sans guards, bikes get mucky. Nothing a decent bike wash won’t shift. Steve’s been quite impressed by the Pure PURE BIKE WASH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Larger bike packing luggage, including this Zefal Z Aventure R11 do a decent job of doubling as a rear guard, protecting rider and saddle from the watery worst.