Chilly Charms & Sudden Thaws

 

Conditions became wintrier as January unfolded and I was relieved I'd left the Schwalbe Marathon Winter mounted to Denise's wheels meaning I could just hop on, relax and enjoy the ride, despite the icy stretches. I decided to switch the Selle Royal Respiro for the WTB Rocket WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing . The Respiro served me well for the best part of 13 years and I wondered whether the foam matrix was beginning to lose its memory around the rear.  It also heralded the return of these “lobster” gloves, since wind chill had brought the air temperatures considerably lower than minus 6.

Warmth is a definite plus but there’s trade off on the dexterity front, which can dictate their removal when bag rummaging, multi tool wielding and other tasks requiring fine motor skills. These link two fingers together, so allows me sufficient freedom to operate a compact camera, adjust a zipper etc. Better than the mitten type, but still comparatively limited.  For this reason, I also pack a set of liners, or middleweight gravel types, should I need to tackle a flat, or similar.

Considerations aside, they are blissful for otherwise bitterly cold midwinter outings. Blessed with a generous thatch, I tend to default to a water repelling, breathable cap such as this Showers Pass Elite SHOWERS PASS ELITE CYCLING CAP | cycling-not-racing. However, when il fait froid, I reach for another old favourite, the “Belgian” style cycling cap, which has served me well for around twelve winters.

These are characterised by better coverage and protection to the ears and a slightly thicker, sometimes fleecy inner fabric. I reach for mine once the air temperature hovers around zero, or the wind chill drags it into minus figures. Higher and I find the breed a little too toasty for my tastes.  The Sidi Algor Sidi Algor MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing have proven themselves extremely temperate when the mercury’s dipped to minus 6. Not that I’ve had any issues with Shimano’s mighty MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing in similar contexts, but the Algor are slightly toastier.

The Zefal Shield G50 guards continue to impress with their capacity for keeping crappy stuff off myself and Denise.  Aside from a weekly, judicious check of the Velcro, I've not needed to give them a second thought. I've also been pleased by Ursula's new front mudguard.

Though less elegant than the Mudhugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing and similar designs, its simple and offers good coverage to rider and machine without risk of clogging. How it will fare longer term, when the glop, UV light, heat and cold have done their worst, remains to be seen.

Mudguards, though a valuable defence are no substitute for regular cleaning. When the gritters have been out, give bikes regular washes, starting with a cold rinse to flush away the corrosive contaminant (hot will only accelerate the caustic process) before going for the warm sudsy bucket and brushes.  

There’s a lot of discussion around bike washes- in the Marmite sense. Some really like them, other folks loathe them, citing them as money for old rope. I sit somewhere in the middle. Salty season aside, I like those which can applied direct to the bike i.e. without having to get the bike wet first- scrub and rinse.

Otherwise, I default to good quality car wash n’ wax type formulas, which will gobble the grime, while leaving a light wax barrier behind. Obviously, this can’t compare with a decent quality hard paste, or fluid formula, but does offer some defence. Great for when time and daylight are at a premium.  

In a matter of days, ice and snow gave way to flooding, so it made sense to switch to Ursula for a bit, and I was also curious to see how well the new front mudguard performed when it came to waterlogged lanes. Suitably impressed, it made a huge difference to my comfort, although they’re arguably perfect for 1.9 section rubber. Glad I’d donned the Shimano MW702.

Managed to get the Blackburn Atom4 to play nicely with minimal effort. A shot of PTFE free spray on the sensors contacts and decent quality CR2025 cells seem to address the intermittent connectivity issues. The smaller frameset places the head unit and sensor in closer proximity, which probably helps.   

Curly Bars & Fat Tyres

 

Hybrid certainly applies in the context of Ursula and drop bar mountain bikes have been around since the mid-1980s. There is a solid argument, (even if you don’t necessarily agree with it) that gravel bikes are in fact hybrids of road and mountain bikes. I lean toward them being the love child of cyclo cross and rigid 90s cross country mountain bike. The trend for converting 90s cross country mountain bikes to drop bar gravel machines is perhaps predictable. Something I can certainly get my head around.

Afterall, Denise is a late 80’s mountain bike frameset modified to run 700c wheels. That said, like most trends, I’m of the opinion there should be nuance and not a cult or heard like wholesale movement. Early 90s cross country mountain bikes were very capable and engaging machines that handled beautifully.

My 1990 Kona Lava Dome was a case in point. There was a genre called hybrid, which featured flat bars and slowly died a death as the 90s wore on. The higher end models boasted Reynolds 531 and similar grade tubesets- closer to a flat bar tourer with bigger tyres. However, the majority tended to be marketed as commuter steeds with an upright stance, wider saddles lower grade tubing and components.

Mudguard and rack mounts and with clearance for 35-38mm meant they made serviceable town hacks and utility bikes.  I was quite drawn to the Orbit Frontier, which was a drop bar 531 tubed rough stuff tourer with clearance for 700x38c tyres inc full length mudguards.

Marketed as the best of both worlds, the press felt it was too compromised, master of none, essentially. Top-mounted thumb rather than bar end shifters were an example of this and a really strange choice for a drop bar small scale production build. The most commonly remembered frontier was their 531 tubed mountain bike dressed in Shimano XT. Quality control was problematic during this period but turned around under Lee Cooper’s supervision.  

Muddy Fox Trailblazer was another curious beast- drop bar mountain bike with bar cons and 26x1.75 tyres. Similar theme to Specialized’s Rock Combo, but a little earlier- I spotted it in “Bicycle” magazine back in March 1987.  Both machines were well ahead of their time and in my view, the epitome of ATB (All Terrain Bikes). Neither I would pay classic prices for, mind. Sentimental I may be, stupid I am not.

Back to 2026 and I’ve reached my conclusions about the Sidi Algor and decided to try a different front mudguard on Ursula. I’d been buying in some consumables and spotted a reasonably sturdy reinforced plastic model, which would also mean free postage, so took a punt. I’ wanted something with more coverage than the existing shorty fender- I’d reversed it to see if there was any improvement in mud protection. No, is the answer, but a worthwhile experiment.

Rain, mud and slurry had given way to icy winds and tumbling temperatures over Christmas-perfect for testing winter gloves and similar attire. The gritters had been out, prompting the switch to Denise and the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres, providing dependable grip and feedback as I hustled through the lanes.  Curiosity and the urge to experiment got the better of me, so I raised the bars slightly and whipped some other lights atop the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount. 

Not because the Gaciron Cetus could ever be described as lacking, but I hadn't charged it in a while and didn't want to be plunged into darkness several miles from home.  I had the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing to hand and was relieved to discover the mount took its 200plus grams in its stride, same story when I substituted for the Magicshine Ray2600, which was a bigger surprise.  Arguably the best fit was this See Sense Beam, which weighs a feathery 59g. 

While dynamos are bright and highly dependable, I like a powerful backup, just in case- comes in handy should I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical by the roadside. Similarly, while the Exposure Revo is a beautifully made and relatively powerful lamp, 800lumens is a little underpowered for backroad blasting, adding another 500 or so makes a very tangible difference, while sipping reserves-at least on a more powerful torch-type rechargeable system.

Similarly, I usually carry a spare rear light-failures are infrequent but do happen and are at best inconvenient.  One old favourite is Nite Rider's Cherry Bomb- the 100-lumen version. Aside from being very bright, it was fuelled by AAA cells and enjoyed a seriously generous run times and would withstand being frozen- I left one submerged on a very chill winter day and it passed the ice bucket challenge with flying colours. 

Topeak Redlite Aero Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing and its Mega stablemate are two further good examples of lights with AAA options. The former is only two modes- steady and flashing. Arguably all we strictly need, but sometimes a choice of flashing modes is nice, especially if navigating city centres with competing illuminations, or when fitted to a trailer, or tagalong.

 

Wet, Wintry and Wonderful?

 

I long ago switched off from tired cliché’s about life being what we make it (primarily since it’s a blanket statement and life is far more nuanced). Afterall, if this simple rhetoric were true, the hardest working people would have the biggest rewards…

This also the season for boiler bother and I found myself needing to tweak our Grant combi to bring heating and hot water back on track. Well, I had to clean the fixed seemingly every other ride, courtesy of wet, greasy and increasingly cold conditions…Much as we’d expect from later November onward.  

This environment also consumes things like brake pads and chains with consummate, dare we say frightening ease, so I decided it was time to stock up on some more pads, chains and the odd tube and batteries before Christmas. They’re bound to reach retirement while the shops are shut.  

Wheels and tyres are also taxed, since wet, freezing conditions contributes to road erosion potholes, sharps and other nasties are more readily worked in as we ride. For this reason, I err towards reliability and overbuild on working, mountain and winter bike wheelsets.  I want to enjoy the ride with nominal mechanical issues and in due course, stay temperate.  I’m very fond of Muffin’s Continental Contact Plus and Vittoria Adventure tech paring and given the risk of icy conditions, the Schwalbe Marathon Winter spikes stay on Denise’s hoops.   

It should be obvious that this is not a substitute for regular cleaning, inspection and maintenance.   

I’ve added a cable tie to the Sidi Algor’s zipper tags, which has made drawing the zipper fully home significantly quicker and easier. I’ve also needed to adjust the rear Zefal G50 Gravel guard slightly-just a question of slackening the two 5mm Allen screws, moving the guard slightly and snugging down-2.5nm (or bottle cage screw territory). Talking of bottle cages, I also decided to switch the bottle cages again and like the red on teal contrast. 

 After 330 miles, (260 on the fixed) the Muc-Off C3 Ceramic All Weather Lube was still doing its thing, albeit a bit filmy. I’ve given side plates a wipe with a rag dipped in solvent and topped up, leaving it curing overnight, rather than the four hours cited.  I was also pleasantly surprised by how little gunge clung to the derailleur jockey wheels. 

For more intense drivetrain cleaning, I’m a big fan of brushes, less so chain baths, which can work very effectively but are fiddly. Besides, chances are, especially during winter, you’ll need to clean the rings and cassette too. Aside from the obvious need to remove congealed lube and potential contaminant, a lot of lubes can react badly with each other, if there are traces left behind. I'm quite impressed by this Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing  

The Castelli Competizione Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing bib tights have become an unexpected default given the changing conditions and fluctuating temperatures. They’re best in cool, dry contexts, although there’s similarly priced competitors offering a DWR (Durable Water Repelling) coating, which can extend comfort on wetter rides. I did add a wash-in product, while washing some Gore Tex and this has extended the time I’ve remained dry, so that’s also an option.

It's also worth saying that not all permanent DWR coatings are particularly effective. I also prefer highly water resistant, breathable garments, those that might allow some moisture through, yet wick quickly. Back in the late 1980s, I used to be happy enough with waist tights, but bibs are definitely the way forward, offering seamless comfort and protection to the vital organs.  

No issues of chill getting in, should a jersey, or base layer gather slightly while you’re hunkered low on the drops, battling those gusty winds. There have come and gone in the last couple of weeks, reaching 60kmh at certain, exposed points.  

I love booties during the winter months, although they can feel a little cumbersome around the ankles and cadence slightly remote, less so with the Shimano MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing slightly more so with the Sidi Algor. This is quickly forgotten in the saddle and while the Algor have some quirks, I appreciate their water resistance, grip and temperate inner climate. The soles are also stiffer than their rating might imply, without compromising the ability to walk gracefully. Staying with winter clothing, Steve has been impressed by Castelli’s Estremo Gloves Castelli Estremo Gloves | cycling-not-racing

 

Weighing it Up

 

I'll attribute this to a midwinter lull, but eBay was trying to tempt me into indulging in some surplus stock gravel forks. 4130 throughout, sloping crown, assorted mounts, straight 1/18th steerer and assorted mounts. Clearance for 700x45c... Aside from not NEEDING them, they were raw, so would need painting, which adds to their cost. Being as I would need them powder coated; I'd be closer to £90 by the time everything had been considered.  

 

The fixed gear winter/trainer had a perfectly adequate carbon fork and replacing it (for the admittedly tempting Cro-moly set) would only buy bigger clearance and this wasn't strictly necessary since I'd settled on a more traditional road cum cross typical flavour and 32mm tyres. It would also add some grams. What had I really gained? Sometimes a bargain isn't that when you've weighed everything up- figuratively and literally. 

 

A prudent move too, since the fixed ate another KMC Z1, giving me cause to rethink my policy of running budget chains. Fixed though simple are highly stressed and require closer maintenance than the one cog setup might suggest. The most durable chains I've found to date are the Gusset S-link and KMC X1 stainless. However, both are relatively pricy and in the Gusset's case, hefty. I've decided to go the mid-point route and this Izumi 410.  

 

I'd been out during a particularly wet, grotty morning with various obstacles-looming potholes had my senses screaming with alarm and I was only just able to snatch the front end away at the last second-the gaping chasm would've spat me off, likely into the path of an oncoming vehicle. Composure regained; I cruised the remaining 15 miles at a steady tempo until noting the chain sliding off the rear sprocket and crawling off the front ring. Thankfully, it hadn't jammed but closer inspection revealed it was certainly beyond its prime, signalling imminent replacement. 

 

Waste not, want not...I switched the weary Z1 for one of the YBN that I'd bought for £2, if only to see how durable they were in comparison. Was it a question of having a bargain or getting what I paid for? I wasn't particularly confident, so decided to fit and leave dressed in the factory lube.  

 

Meantime, I've cut the Izumi down to length, so I can just join and adjust when opportunity presents.  I'd be alternating between Ursula and Denise for the coming weeks, depending on whether it was icy, or milder and mucky. Ursula’s KMC began kicking up, which initially had me believing the issue lay with the rear mech’s cable tension, but closer (roadside) inspection revealed splaying of two links, so having completed the ride more gingerly than typical, I switched to a fresh Z10. Presented ideal opportunity to clean out sludgy black stuff from the rear mech, rings and cassette. This was followed by a sudsy bucket deep clean- rid any road salt and similar caustic grot while opportunity presented. 

 

Talking of mucky, Steve was impressed by Portland Design Works Fender Bot PDW Fenderbot Tail Light | cycling-not-racing. As the name suggests, it's a AAA battery powered light affixing to the rear fender (mudguard). Its highly weatherproof, very bright, solidly made and not something an opportunist thief is going to half inch.    

 

Continuing the wintry theme, Robb from Lomo has sent me a pair of their winter gloves. These are a wind and waterproof softshell design with tech friendly rubberised fingers for grip and connectivity with phones and other touch screen devices. There’s a generous Terry thumb wipe, retro-reflective panelling and flat padded palms- no ulnar defending lumps, which can induce precisely the nagging tingling they’re intended to eliminate.    

 

These are a road design and subtle enough for other activities but there’s also a winter mountain bike counterpart. Lomo say these aren’t intended for winter’s most bitter outings. I’ve been out when it’s been close to zero and there was a little nagging chill around the fingertips but this evaporated when the wintry sun brought the mercury to 2 degrees or so.  

 

He's also sent me a pair of Lomo Zephyr panniers that look as if they could give the impressive Oxford Aqua 20 litre a good run for our hard-earned. Reckoned good for everything from soggy commutes to long haul, they’re made from 500denier PVC tarpaulin with RF welded seams and roll top closures. A twin pocket design ensures you can keep things easily segregated. It attaches to racks between 10 and 17mm courtesy of the Rixen Kaul type sprung clips and stabiliser leg. There’s also a webbed strap for easy carrying sans bike.  Right, I’ll close here with my review of the Castelli Espresso Air Jacket Castelli Espresso Air Jacket | cycling-not-racing