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Winter is hard on everything, even the best maintained and prepared bicycles, motorcycles, cars etc. demand more owner involvement. Following my undignified, but thankfully inexpensive encounter with sheet ice, I’ve stuck with Ursula and spikes. It was tempting to shod Denise with the Schwalbe Marathon Winter, but conditions were too icy for the 120 spikes.  

Sure, they’d offer a decent amount of grip in less challenging conditions but waterlogged roads that had turned to sheet ice will fox mid- point 240 spikes. Even with 362 spikes, I was incredibly focused along one particular descent, holding the right (front) lever tentatively to scrub off some speed and stabilise but I didn’t deviate from my line and was hyper vigilant, especially entering the left-hand bend. No issues, no bib short soiling, but I didn’t want another tangle with terra firma. Subsequent outings saw me take the longer, flatter route home.  

Having heard of my tumble and trashed tights, Saddleback graciously sent me these Castelli Espresso tights and jacket, which was very welcome, and I was deeply touched. I’d received and fitted the been giving the non-aero lever idea some thought and decided there was some merit in doing so, but restraint was key just now. Not least as someone felt themselves more entitled to my bank account than I. Thankfully my bank’s fraud team were quick to curtail this, but no-one thought to tell me, while I stood in line at the supermarket’s self-checkout.   

I’d decided if I was taking the non-aero lever route, I’d pop them on the WTB mtb drop bars and do a wholesale swap sometime, most likely coinciding with cable replacement. Otherwise, it’s just change for changes sake. 

While replacing Denise’s RL520 lever, I then discovered the derailleur inner wire had exploded into one massive fray, calling for replacement. Logic would suggest then was also the time to perform a switch. However, it was minus 2 and by the time I’d conducted lever surgery and redressed the bars, my fingers were rapidly losing sensation. Best to quit, while ahead rather than soldier on at that point.  

Milder temperatures saw this job completed in a matter of minutes the following day. The new brake inner wire had also stretched very slightly, but I’d noted the CX50 brake pads were running a little low, so I switched these, before pulling the inner wire through. Another illustration of winter being hard on components, so always best to keep a few in stock and coordinate replacement before they wear out.   

Ursula’s chain was looking thirsty, so I ultimately gave both bikes a deep, sudsy bucket clean, degreased Ursula’s drivetrain using the Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing, checked chain health-.25, which was a pleasant surprise and possibly due in part to the use of cleaner lubes-the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions LubeWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing in particular. I’ve gone the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing.  

I’d switched to Ursula’s other XT wheel, having discovered the Ryde/XT had some play in the bearings, which I didn’t have time to tackle. A few days down the line and with some quiet time, I removed the cassette and tackled the cones. This is a very subtle adjustment and can be a little fiddly.  

I got things close and then whipped two 17mm spanners on the locknuts tightening them both simultaneously, thus ensuring both sides tension evenly, saving time and faff. A quick double check, then back went the cassette-another little job off the list. There was ample Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing clinging to the freehub splines, so no need to replenish.  I’ve been sent these Silca Gear Wipes, which seem a great workshop standby for all sorts of generic cleaning duties.  

£30 buys 110 wipes, which I’m told remove dirt, grease, oil and sweat from frames, components. There are two sides. One for polishing, the other for scrubbing. The polishing side is supposedly safe on frame finishes, including matts, which can be trickier customers to care for. The rougher side is for purging grease, oil and gunk from drivetrains and other areas of impacted grime-white bar wraps being prime candidates. Given the season, it’ll be very interesting to see how effective they are.    

I’d been tempted to pop out on the fixed since temperatures had thawed for successive days, but the mercury was sliding again, and my scabbed forearm and knee tempered such temptations. However, I’d reached my conclusions regarding the Topeak Uni Super Tourist 2.0 Non-Disc Rack  Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing 

 

No Messing....

  

No sooner had I uttered something about not changing Denise's specification, Oxford Products sent me their Aqua Evo Adventure Daytripper pack. At 3.5 litres, it’s over twice the size of the Cycology and Topeak models I’ve tested recently, which is on some levels, a departure from my minimalist narrative.

At 329g its relatively lightweight and enjoys a maximum 2 kilo payload. It’s made from 400 denier rip-stop TPU. Welded seams and waterproof zippers. Internally, it features a dedicated tool and phone compartment, keeping these silently segregated from each other and other things you might want to dip in for. There’s a cargo net at the front for capturing overspill and the sensibly proportioned zipper tag promises easy access mid-ride too.   

  

As with other models that tether to the head tube, you’ll want to apply some helicopter tape to prevent wear-through (especially when mud and water are thrown into the equation). This goes for any other luggage that rests against the frame. I’m fond of those using Klick-Fix type brackets. On the one hand, they occupy a bit more real estate, but they also hold the bag out further, so they won’t foul head tubes, cables etc. Topeak’s Compact Bar Bag and Tour Bag are good examples.  

 

The compact version is most likely to appeal to photographers looking to carry a compact system camera, or SLR on tour, or day trip.  The bigger, 5 litre model will swallow a camera body two lenses and a fair bit more.  I always carry a 20mpxl super zoom compact camera in a jacket, or jersey pocket to capture things mid ride, but CSC are superior options if you’re looking for optimal resolution.  

 

Talking of jerseys, here’s my review of the Castelli Espresso Castelli Espresso Jersey | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) However, CSC and SLR need proper storage. Never pop cameras or sensitive electricals in a rack top bag, even the generously padded type, such as this Topeak MTXTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since low-level vibration will prove ruinous. 

  

Elsewhere, the weather had been decidedly wet and mucky, which have been a little tedious in some respects. It was so wet that I’d gone from the FLR mountain bike shoes to the Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) a lightweight, packable jacket such as this Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance 2.0 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and over to the Madison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket Madison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which, some small points aside, is a nice fit for gravel, mtb and commuting duties thanks to the hood, hip pockets and tasteful colours. Waterproofing and breathability are 10,000mm apiece, so not quite on par with more expensive models, but pretty good, in the everyday sense.   

  

Having checked the Tiagra’s maximum capacity, I’ve decided I’ll take Denise the 11-28 cassette route, when the chain wears out, giving a rough range of 31-79 inches. The SS is designed for 2x10, whereas the GS is intended for triple setups, in case anyone wasn’t aware, or were simply curious.  

 

Talking curious, I’ve decided to switch Denise’s Wellgo MO94B pedals WELLGO MO94B SPD PEDALS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) in favour of the Shimano PD ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Not the most obvious choice and given the frame’s heritage, the first generation of SPD would’ve been aesthetically a more obvious, period sensitive fit. I may well go this route later down the line.  

 

Grateful for having options. I decided now was time to replace the rear inner brake cable, since I was convinced a kink, or similar was impairing the Suntour SE cantilevers’ function slightly- I needed to re-wrap the T-One bar tape in any case, since it had slipped a bit over the first few weeks.  

 

I made some time to remove Ursula’s Stronglight Aheadset and Van Nicholas VNT Ceramic Bottom Bracket, giving Ursula a good, deep clean ready to be boxed up and sent to Winston Vaz in July. The latter was liberally greased, so released effortlessly and the Stronglight’s cups popped out with a few deft taps of a mallet and my Kinesis fork steerer tube drift.  

Aside from some minor flaking of the cream powder coat, the frame is generally in good shape. Another little job off the list. I’ll treat the headset, bottom bracket, and drivetrain components to a tour de parts washer in due course. I also took the plunge and invested in a “proper” cup removal tool, since one was going for £20.  

The Kinesis fork steerer is a much safer drift than the long flat bladed screwdriver bodge, especially with aluminium alloy cups, but not ideal. I’ve also been thinking in terms of acquiring workshop-quality chain rivet pliers, mainly for breaking and rejoining track chains. These days I buy derailleur chains pre-cut and, in the instances, where I may need to prune one, this Topeak, or indeed, a multi-tool model will suffice.